Thread To Tell Everyone What Fettling You've Just Done

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  • itboffin
    itboffin Posts: 20,072
    TGOTB wrote:
    If it's any consolation, I spent 40 mins racing yesterday, and then something like 2 hours cleaning the bike and drying/regreasing various bearings. I've come to the conclusion that rather than trying (and possibly failing) to avoid getting water in my BB30 bearings, it's easier to pressure wash the bike and then remove the bearing seals immediately, flush them out with GT-85 and regrease. After 5 mins trying to pull grass out of the rear mech I decided the easiest way to clean that was to take it apart too...

    Would it not be better to admit that racing CX you're going to need to replace the BB fairly regularly and therefore just blast the shit out of it with the pressure washer until one or the other kills it.

    Like a pro :wink: 8)
    Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
  • msmancunia
    msmancunia Posts: 1,415
    I have not done any exercise since I broke my wrist nearly a month ago.
    I discovered at the weekend that the mirrors in the changing rooms in several women's apparel retail outlets are less than forgiving.
    The waistband on my favourite pair of Firetrap jeans is even less forgiving.
    I am booked onto a Wattbike class after work tomorrow.

    I miss riding my bike :cry:
    Commute: Chadderton - Sportcity
  • tgotb
    tgotb Posts: 4,714
    itboffin wrote:
    Would it not be better to admit that racing CX you're going to need to replace the BB fairly regularly and therefore just blast the shoot out of it with the pressure washer until one or the other kills it.

    Like a pro :wink: 8)
    I'm rather stingier than your average pro (possibly because it's my own money) so compromises have to be made...
    Pannier, 120rpm.
  • redvee
    redvee Posts: 11,922
    Spent a few minutes checking the bolts on the rack cause I could hear a rattle when I got to work, tapped them all and none were loose. Had a better look at home and saw the chain tug bolt was the culprit.
    A different sort of fettling: sewed up the loose stitching on my Castelli Garmin gloves, not the best bit of sewing but the gloves are good again.
    I've added a signature to prove it is still possible.
  • redvee
    redvee Posts: 11,922
    After riding home in the rain with a front hub that was complaining all the way I fed it with some fresh grease and ball bearings. Smooth and silent again for the ride to/from work today.
    I've added a signature to prove it is still possible.
  • msmancunia wrote:
    I have not done any exercise since I broke my wrist nearly a month ago.
    I discovered at the weekend that the mirrors in the changing rooms in several women's apparel retail outlets are less than forgiving.
    The waistband on my favourite pair of Firetrap jeans is even less forgiving.
    I am booked onto a Wattbike class after work tomorrow.

    I miss riding my bike :cry:

    Me too though inspite of little activity on my part, I'm loosing weight down a good half stone or so. Mind you fitness is running out the door as well. Main problem is appetite or lack of it!
  • asprilla
    asprilla Posts: 8,440
    Tyres and discs on my spare wheels for the Peregrine.
    Mud - Genesis Vapour CCX
    Race - Fuji Norcom Straight
    Sun - Cervelo R3
    Winter / Commute - Dolan ADX
  • I have just had to replace the STI units, cables, mechs, brake calipers, chainrings, chain, cassette and wheels on my winter bike.

    Amazing how every one of those items managed to fail at the same time, particularly since I *really* needed to be in the office that day.
  • itboffin
    itboffin Posts: 20,072
    Went out to prep the Ribble carbon for a little post xmas pootle and i noticed that many of the chain links seem to have formed a rigid triangle appearance, the tell tale sign of a quickly poorly washed bike left hanging in the garage for months to dry :roll:

    oh well after this afternoon mudfest wade through the roads of Wiltshire I think a slightly more caring clean is called for ....perhaps
    Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
  • Initialised
    Initialised Posts: 3,047
    Cleaned and lubed, fitted my Garmin Edge 500 and went out for a test ride. Still slow but at least now I know just how slow to one decimal point. And today at least I can blame it slowing down on icy descents instead of my pitiful climbing.
    I used to just ride my bike to work but now I find myself going out looking for bigger and bigger hills.
  • Thread To Tell Everyone What Fettling You Should've Done....

    Unhooked the Cube Reaction from the garage wall (where it has been pretty much since last winter), jumped straight on it and went for a quick 8.5-mile blast through the forest.

    I should have checked the bike first: 20psi in the front Ice Spiker and less than 15psi in the rear and a badly dragging front brake meant that my "blast" was less of a "blast" than I was expecting :roll: :wink::lol:
    ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH
  • oldbazza
    oldbazza Posts: 646
    Fitted crud roadracer2 rear mudguard(old front one still ok),adjusted rear Planet-X caliper and went on a short test ride to check nothing fell off :roll: Luckily nothing did :mrgreen:
    Ridley Helium SL (Dura-Ace/Wheelsmith Aero-dimpled 45 wheels)

    Light Blue Robinson(105 +lots of Hope)

    Planet X XLS 1X10(105/XTR/Miche/TRP Spyre SLC brakes

    Graham Weigh 105/Ultegra
  • redvee
    redvee Posts: 11,922
    Gave the white Ortlieb pannier bag a shower, been in use for over a year and this is the first proper clean it's had other than a quick wipe when wet before I put it in my locker in work.
    I've added a signature to prove it is still possible.
  • Initialised
    Initialised Posts: 3,047
    Washed the bike after this morning's ride, accidentally left hot water running on the rear tyre. Proved that you can have a thermal blow out on a disc braked bike!
    I used to just ride my bike to work but now I find myself going out looking for bigger and bigger hills.
  • asprilla
    asprilla Posts: 8,440
    The Mrs decided to watch Eastenders New Year special and this gave me the motivation to clean the garage up, lube four drive trains and finally set up the turbo.
    Mud - Genesis Vapour CCX
    Race - Fuji Norcom Straight
    Sun - Cervelo R3
    Winter / Commute - Dolan ADX
  • goonz
    goonz Posts: 3,106
    Put the 3T seatpost I just bought into the seat tube of my Mash frame to make sure I got the right size. Didnt tighten.
    Scott Speedster S20 Roadie for Speed
    Specialized Hardrock MTB for Lumps
    Specialized Langster SS for Ease
    Cinelli Mash Bolt Fixed for Pain
    n+1 is well and truly on track
    Strava http://app.strava.com/athletes/1608875
  • veronese68
    veronese68 Posts: 27,895
    I finally got round to fitting a set of forks to my son's road bike the other day. I'd spent a while trying to get a pair of 1" threaded forks with a fookin' long steerer. Finally on there, steerer cut and drilled the hole in the back of the crown out for a recessed nut type of brake caliper. Got the brakes on and tightened up to find there is not enough drop on one side, it's about 2mm short. The right hand side fits but is right on the maximum drop, the left seems to have more material in the bottom of the slot the pad sits in so the pad won't quite reach down far enough. So do I file the slot a bit longer? The other alternatives are to get some extra long drop brakes or another set of forks. Problem being extra long drop brakes seem to be with nut fittings on the back and it's hard to find decent threaded forks with 255mm long steerers.
  • asprilla
    asprilla Posts: 8,440
    Veronese68 wrote:
    I finally got round to fitting a set of forks to my son's road bike the other day. I'd spent a while trying to get a pair of 1" threaded forks with a fookin' long steerer. Finally on there, steerer cut and drilled the hole in the back of the crown out for a recessed nut type of brake caliper. Got the brakes on and tightened up to find there is not enough drop on one side, it's about 2mm short. The right hand side fits but is right on the maximum drop, the left seems to have more material in the bottom of the slot the pad sits in so the pad won't quite reach down far enough. So do I file the slot a bit longer? The other alternatives are to get some extra long drop brakes or another set of forks. Problem being extra long drop brakes seem to be with nut fittings on the back and it's hard to find decent threaded forks with 255mm long steerers.

    What drop do you need and what fitting?
    Mud - Genesis Vapour CCX
    Race - Fuji Norcom Straight
    Sun - Cervelo R3
    Winter / Commute - Dolan ADX
  • desweller
    desweller Posts: 5,175
    Dug a spare DT spoke out of my toolbox and replaced the broken spoke in my rear wheel. It's not a perfect match and I don't know what sort of shape the other spokes are in but hopefully I'll avoid shelling out for a complete set of spokes.
    - - - - - - - - - -
    On Strava.{/url}
  • veronese68
    veronese68 Posts: 27,895
    Asprilla wrote:
    Veronese68 wrote:
    I finally got round to fitting a set of forks to my son's road bike the other day. I'd spent a while trying to get a pair of 1" threaded forks with a fookin' long steerer. Finally on there, steerer cut and drilled the hole in the back of the crown out for a recessed nut type of brake caliper. Got the brakes on and tightened up to find there is not enough drop on one side, it's about 2mm short. The right hand side fits but is right on the maximum drop, the left seems to have more material in the bottom of the slot the pad sits in so the pad won't quite reach down far enough. So do I file the slot a bit longer? The other alternatives are to get some extra long drop brakes or another set of forks. Problem being extra long drop brakes seem to be with nut fittings on the back and it's hard to find decent threaded forks with 255mm long steerers.

    What drop do you need and what fitting?
    About 60mm I guess. The caliper has 47-57mm cast into it, I don't think that means 47mm for one side and 57mm the other. :wink: I think I might attack it with a Dremel at some point.
    The irritating thing is the frame is much tighter and the rear tyre, 25mm, is only a hairs breadth from touching the caliper in the centre. I'd be happier if I had some forks with much tighter clearance as it would make the whole thing look right. I don't think the boy cares as long as he can ride the thing.
  • itboffin
    itboffin Posts: 20,072
    Tired of listening to my howling mag turbo i pulled it apart and flushed out the very grimmy bearings and coated the axle and contact points with awesome phill woods bearing grease, great stuff but does it stink and stays on your hands.

    Still got to be worth it for a bit of peace and quiet, hopefully
    Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
  • redvee
    redvee Posts: 11,922
    Did a Halo Aerorage rim swap, a knackered white one for a new black one. Also finally got round to putting the QR axle into the hub after having it sat in the old hub for 6+ months.
    I've added a signature to prove it is still possible.
  • rolf_f
    rolf_f Posts: 16,015
    Complete rebuild of the long suffering Ribble which was not looking it's best after the December marathon....
    Before:
    P1000400ed_zps917600a1.jpg

    Stripped it down to the frame. Cleaned everything to death (components in ultrasonic cleaner) and regreased inc headset, BB bearings etc. Removed right front brake lever, flatted it and re-lacquered it to remove some December based scrape marks. Replaced gear cables (shouldn't have been necessary but.... :roll: ), replaced a couple of sections of gear and brake cable outer. New front pads. Fitted new set of Cruds (modified by heating the main section over a tea light (behind the cable tie mount) and gently bending upwards to gain more clearance at the top of the wheel - seem to fit first time. Replaced rear mech hanger which has been bent for ages but which I had successfully conned myself into believing wasn't bent. Polished everything to death and reassembled. Re-indexed gears (seem to be fine straight off). After photo re-adjusted bars to original angle.

    Not bad for 16777 miles! 8)
    P1000432ed_zps2f39f15f.jpg
    Faster than a tent.......
  • itboffin
    itboffin Posts: 20,072
    white saddle black bar tape SHOCKING :lol:
    Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
  • rolf_f
    rolf_f Posts: 16,015
    itboffin wrote:
    white saddle black bar tape SHOCKING :lol:

    Lol - I'm going to hell! That's the old saddle off my Look which also has black tape. I'm mildly peeved that the new one for that (a carbon railed Arione) is black as it makes the bike less deviant! Alas no white colour option on that one......

    I should probably re-tape it (in black again natch!) - 17,000 odd miles is reasonable for a fivers worth of cork tape I reckon - but it's still looking presentable. I suspect though that if anyone else tried to ride it, without gloves, they'd probably not live long after for all the diseases the tape harbours but which I have slowly gained immunity from :lol:
    Faster than a tent.......
  • goonz
    goonz Posts: 3,106
    If thats your winter bike I dread to think what you got locked away for the summer time#!
    Scott Speedster S20 Roadie for Speed
    Specialized Hardrock MTB for Lumps
    Specialized Langster SS for Ease
    Cinelli Mash Bolt Fixed for Pain
    n+1 is well and truly on track
    Strava http://app.strava.com/athletes/1608875
  • itboffin
    itboffin Posts: 20,072
    Rolf F wrote:
    itboffin wrote:
    white saddle black bar tape SHOCKING :lol:

    Lol - I'm going to hell! That's the old saddle off my Look which also has black tape. I'm mildly peeved that the new one for that (a carbon railed Arione) is black as it makes the bike less deviant! Alas no white colour option on that one......

    I should probably re-tape it (in black again natch!) - 17,000 odd miles is reasonable for a fivers worth of cork tape I reckon - but it's still looking presentable. I suspect though that if anyone else tried to ride it, without gloves, they'd probably not live long after for all the diseases the tape harbours but which I have slowly gained immunity from :lol:

    its funny my white bar taped bikes are all very clean including my London FGSS with zero cleaning effort
    Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
  • rolf_f
    rolf_f Posts: 16,015
    itboffin wrote:
    its funny my white bar taped bikes are all very clean including my London FGSS with zero cleaning effort

    Even Fizik Microtex doesn't look Persil white for me for that long - I can get it to look pretty good but not like it is when new. Same applies to the Arione. I surveyed the bikes at a feed stop on a Sportive once. About half had white, half had black tape. All the black taped bikes looked smart, all the white taped bikes looked a mess - just because of the tape. If you are the only person in the world that can keep his white tape looking clean without cleaning it, then you owe it to the world to tell your secret because nobody else can! :lol:
    goonz wrote:
    If thats your winter bike I dread to think what you got locked away for the summer time#!

    A rather lovely Look 585. Mind you, the Ribble isn't my winter bike - it is my all year round bike. The Look is my special occasion bike. Soon the Ribble will be joined by a Scott CR1 SL (one of 'those') so I have no idea how that will work or how it will be justified. To be fair, the Scott will be pretty cheap as it will be just a case of bolting my collection of spare parts together in one convenient sort of thing that could be called a bike. I'll only be doing it to gain more shelf space.......
    Faster than a tent.......
  • itboffin
    itboffin Posts: 20,072
    as a fellow Scott CR1 SL & Ribble sportive owner I can tell you the ride and fit is very different but both rather nice to own 8)
    Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
  • goonz
    goonz Posts: 3,106
    Now im jealous.
    Scott Speedster S20 Roadie for Speed
    Specialized Hardrock MTB for Lumps
    Specialized Langster SS for Ease
    Cinelli Mash Bolt Fixed for Pain
    n+1 is well and truly on track
    Strava http://app.strava.com/athletes/1608875