Thread To Tell Everyone What Fettling You've Just Done
Comments
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Found a use the redundant canti mounting bolts on my Kaffenback.
In the past I had the bracket cable tied to pannier rack.I've added a signature to prove it is still possible.0 -
Redvee,
What guards are you using on there?"If you always do what you've always done, you'll always get what you've always got."
PX Kaffenback 2 = Work Horse
B-Twin Alur 700 = Sundays and Hills0 -
rubertoe wrote:Redvee,
What guards are you using on there?
Tortec Reflector guards, running 25c tyres at present but bought larger as I have 32c for snow etc.
http://www.zyro.co.uk/tortec/products/detail/TTRFI've added a signature to prove it is still possible.0 -
DesWeller wrote:Quick releases on wheels, headset/stem/bars...creaks can travel through the frame quite well, making them difficult to trace.
Thanks DesWeller. All now checked and tightened appropriately and having been out twice since, I'm more convinced than ever that I'll be attempting my first overhaul of a bottom bracket in the near future.
Incidentally, anyone had an off while diagnosing a bike problem? Attempting to ride out of the saddle and hands free while tying to apply some effort to the pedals was an interesting exercise. On the plus side, I'm convinced I could now ride a unicycle...0 -
got guard no 1 on the kaff, now having a beer."If you always do what you've always done, you'll always get what you've always got."
PX Kaffenback 2 = Work Horse
B-Twin Alur 700 = Sundays and Hills0 -
Just set up the Roadrat as I was a bit worried about the top tube length, but it all looks fine. In fact I think I can have a 100mm stem instead of the 90mm I bought and I reckon I could have a layback seat post as well.
Very happy.Mud - Genesis Vapour CCX
Race - Fuji Norcom Straight
Sun - Cervelo R3
Winter / Commute - Dolan ADX0 -
new brake cables, black bar tape and Rubino Pro tyres.Ridley Fenix SL0
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Rear freehub removal and subsequent binning. Waiting on replacement, meanwhile cleaned gunk out of bearing cups. Does anyone know if I can re-grease with white lithium grease?"A beaten path is for beaten men"0
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Attempted to reseat/regrease BB30 bearings to eliminate a creak. Foxed at the first turn as the NDS crank simply will not come off.
Anyone any experience with FSA Omega BB30 cranks?0 -
MisterMuncher wrote:Attempted to reseat/regrease BB30 bearings to eliminate a creak. Foxed at the first turn as the NDS crank simply will not come off.
Anyone any experience with FSA Omega BB30 cranks?
Which part are you stuck with, what's stopping it from coming off? I have Sram force BB30 and it's most likely very similar.
Undo the massive allen bolt on the NDS and it should just come off. If I remember I didn't have the correct size and had to go and buy one.0 -
Oh, I've undone the allen bolt, but the arm is stuck on there, resolute. Whilst most BB30 cranks have a self-extracting bolt on the crank-arm, the Omega is a bit more basic, just has a big bolt. Might try a kettle of boiling water to expand the arm a little.0
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Which unexpectedly worked perfectly, slipped off with barely a grunt. A good clean and regrease, and we're back to silent running. Decided to strip the rear hub while I was at it, too.0
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Good work!0
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Fitted my first headset and crown race on Kaffenback 2 today without too much fuss. Home made kit included - steel rod, bolts,washes, 2 x 4" skirting boards with drilled holes to fit rod, 32mm plastic pipe, and an old crown race. They worked well once got going, and very happy with outcome. Also fitted first external bottom bracket and chainset last week, which was also easy enough. I imagine the difficult bit is when it's time to take them off the bike
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Massive fettle with my race bike over the last few days
Carbon tubular puncture that sealant failed to seal :roll:
So...
Pull tyre off wheel, use a knife to scrape basetape off tyre, cut stitching and undo a few cm, pull out inner tube, patch said tube, push tube back in, stitch up the hole and glue basetape back down. All this took a whole evening.
Then the rim was covered in this sticky latex poopy stuff and after last time I swore I'd never scrape this crap off again so I bought some stuff called "goo gone", it didn't seem to work at first so I balanced the wheel on a dinner plate with a pool of the goo gone stuff and went off for a while, came back and the sticky crap just fell off the wheel, hurrah! So turn wheel a few inches, leave for 30 minutes, repeat until whole wheel rim is clean. This took a long time! Once clean of latex gunk I then gave the rim another clean with meth spirits, then soapy water. Layer of blue on rim, layer of glue on tyre, leave for 30 minutes, return and put another layer of glue on rim and fit repaired tubular tyre.
Phew, I feel better for having written this down, my wife really wasn't interested in any of this processes.
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the remains of the rear mech removed from my hanger, then the bent hanger removed.
cant get the cassette off due to the way the chain has wrapped itself around between the cassette and the hub.BMC TM01 - FCN 0
Look 695 (Geared) - FCN 1
Bowman Palace:R - FCN 1
Cannondale CAAD 9 - FCN 2
Premier (CX) - FCN 6
Premier (fixed/SS) - FCN30 -
Third time of tightening the chainring bolts on the Kaffenback. This time it felt like I've really tightened them up. Previous attempts have had the chainset turning as I tightened the allen key, this time I secured the cranks with a toe strap at various points of rotation so all my strength was going into the bolt.I've added a signature to prove it is still possible.0
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Inspired by RedVee's choice, mounted tortec reflector rear 'guard on the Pompetamine, re-using stays and mudflap from the brittle SKS one. No clearance for bolts to chain- & seat-stay bridges, so zip-ties for speed (& saving on removing wheel) - hoping that this has a better breaking strain than the SKS (K stands for KitKat).Location: ciderspace0
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Slammed my stem to look more pro. Then noticed it's slightly off centre. :facepalm:I used to just ride my bike to work but now I find myself going out looking for bigger and bigger hills.0
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Initialised wrote:Slammed my stem to look more pro. Then noticed it's slightly off centre. :facepalm:
Congratulations, now you can be a triathlete too.Sometimes parts break. Sometimes you crash. Sometimes it’s your fault.0 -
rip those sleeves and get thee a plastic disc wheel cover thingy and you're done Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.0 -
davis wrote:Initialised wrote:Slammed my stem to look more pro. Then noticed it's slightly off centre. :facepalm:
Congratulations, now you can be a triathlete too.
It's still not low enough, need a long stem and deeper bars.I used to just ride my bike to work but now I find myself going out looking for bigger and bigger hills.0 -
itboffin wrote:rip those sleeves and get thee a plastic disc wheel cover thingy and you're done
No chance, I'd get blown sideways off the Redheugh Bridge.I used to just ride my bike to work but now I find myself going out looking for bigger and bigger hills.0 -
I just fettled £20 out of my wallet to get my mudguards and new brakes fitted to the 00. With my time poor life style (well a wife that doesn't let me rest!) I decided to pay for the fitting whilst I took the Italia out for a spin. As a bonus, my rear wheel got a truing and the bike a clean! And I didn't have to spend an hour swearing at some chromoplastics.RIP commute...
Sometimes seen bimbling around on a purple Fratello Disc or black and red Aprire Vincenza.0 -
menthel wrote:I just fettled £20 out of my wallet to get my mudguards and new brakes fitted to the 00. With my time poor life style (well a wife that doesn't let me rest!) I decided to pay for the fitting whilst I took the Italia out for a spin. As a bonus, my rear wheel got a truing and the bike a clean! And I didn't have to spend an hour swearing at some chromoplastics.
It's the way forward. Having dismantled, cleaned, greased and reassembled every single component of my bike in an attempt to eliminate my creak and failed mserably I've booked it into the LBS on Tuesday.0 -
Drew123 wrote:
It's the way forward. Having dismantled, cleaned, greased and reassembled every single component of my bike in an attempt to eliminate my creak and failed mserably I've booked it into the LBS on Tuesday.
Did you check your cleats (and Knees)?"If you always do what you've always done, you'll always get what you've always got."
PX Kaffenback 2 = Work Horse
B-Twin Alur 700 = Sundays and Hills0 -
rubertoe wrote:Drew123 wrote:
It's the way forward. Having dismantled, cleaned, greased and reassembled every single component of my bike in an attempt to eliminate my creak and failed mserably I've booked it into the LBS on Tuesday.
Did you check your cleats (and Knees)?
Knees +1, maybe even a dodgy hip?Raleigh RX 2.0
Diamondback Outlook
Planet X Pro Carbon0 -
new Dura ace bottom bracket installed. easy job with the right tools.Ridley Fenix SL0
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cant fix my rear wheel!
got a planet x model b wheel, new freehub, took old one off, put new one on, and now it wont turn when on the bike. well it will but it wont free wheel.
any ideas?BMC TM01 - FCN 0
Look 695 (Geared) - FCN 1
Bowman Palace:R - FCN 1
Cannondale CAAD 9 - FCN 2
Premier (CX) - FCN 6
Premier (fixed/SS) - FCN30 -
I'd have thought that the only way that the freehub can't freewheel is if the pawls are jammed open. It's only five minutes to get it off and back on again so have a look. On my Campag freehubs, the way that I fit them (rather than using the ludicrous and entirely unnecessary pawl retention tool) is to gently turn the freehub in the freewheeling direction when inserting the freehub into the wheelhub (the movement drags the pawls gently into the closed position allowing the freehub to slip in place). That can only work if the pawls are behaving properly.
All of this may be completely different on a PX wheel though........Faster than a tent.......0
