Thread To Tell Everyone What Fettling You've Just Done

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  • veronese68
    veronese68 Posts: 27,895
    Having lost the little mudguard attaching bracket I took the mudguards in to work with me and spent yesterday bending the stays to clear the brake calipers. Front guard fitted, rear is ready to go when I get another 10 minutes.
    Had a fettle of the MTB before London to Brighton off road on Saturday. Fitted bar ends to give me some alternative hand positions and general tried to make it feel loved. That's going to be a long day in the saddle.
    Kinesis Pro6
    Marin Nail Trail
    Cotic Solaris
  • fat_tail
    fat_tail Posts: 786
    As reported in the rants thread, the rear derailleur cable on my bike snapped leaving the end bit in the shifter. Read on the internet that it could be quite tricky to get out - turned out to be a piece of cake actually. Installed new rear derailleur cable. At the same time, I thought it would be good to change front derailleur to avoid another unexpected breakage and also fix the fd as it had become gummed up and wouldn't move. With sufficient application of the WD40 got the fd moving again, changed the cable and even managed to get it to shift.
    Ridley Fenix SL
  • rubertoe
    rubertoe Posts: 3,994
    Death trap pedals off the loanee spesh and SPD SL pedals on.

    Looking forward to it tomorrow now!!
    "If you always do what you've always done, you'll always get what you've always got."

    PX Kaffenback 2 = Work Horse
    B-Twin Alur 700 = Sundays and Hills
  • Gussio
    Gussio Posts: 2,452
    Got myself a second hand Bob Jackson Vigorelli at the weekend (so happy!) and started tinkering with the set up this evening. Lowered the stem, changed the pedals and changed the 19T sprocket to 17T. Finger hovering over the buy button for a set of Omnium cranks.....it is so sweet to have a new project :)
  • asprilla
    asprilla Posts: 8,440
    Last night saw another unscheduled overnight deflation on the SS, so tonight saw new tape, new tube and new tyre.

    Also, fitted race blades so I'm predicting a drought.
    Mud - Genesis Vapour CCX
    Race - Fuji Norcom Straight
    Sun - Cervelo R3
    Winter / Commute - Dolan ADX
  • itboffin
    itboffin Posts: 20,072
    The almost finger tight track nuts on my front forks was a wake up and do some TLC maint checks perhaps more than once a year on the FGSS
    Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
  • MonkeyMonster
    MonkeyMonster Posts: 4,629
    request for tools if possible - need the tools(s) to extract a pre-industrial bottom bracket 6 pin old school square tapered one and to replace with a shimano sealed unit (that tool was thought around but gone walkies) if anyone london has the pieces - and not just a hammer and cold chisel please :D
    Le Cannon [98 Cannondale M400] [FCN: 8]
    The Mad Monkey [2013 Hoy 003] [FCN: 4]
  • willy b
    willy b Posts: 4,125
    Fitted new SS cog, chainring & chain and bolted my mudguard back on using a nut & bolt method since I stripped the threads of the frame :?

    Just need to order some new tyres and brake pads and then i'll be sorted for winter :)
    Strava Profile

    Twitter

    Blog: Riding Circle
  • itboffin
    itboffin Posts: 20,072
    MonkeyMonster wrote:
    request for tools if possible - need the tools(s) to extract a pre-industrial bottom bracket 6 pin old school square tapered one and to replace with a shimano sealed unit (that tool was thought around but gone walkies) if anyone london has the pieces - and not just a hammer and cold chisel please :D

    Pic?
    Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
  • veronese68
    veronese68 Posts: 27,895
    itboffin wrote:
    MonkeyMonster wrote:
    request for tools if possible - need the tools(s) to extract a pre-industrial bottom bracket 6 pin old school square tapered one and to replace with a shimano sealed unit (that tool was thought around but gone walkies) if anyone london has the pieces - and not just a hammer and cold chisel please :D

    Pic?
    I was thinking the same, pics to be sure. I have the two pin thing and a selection of c spanners that normally work on the lock rings of pre-Raphaelite bottom brackets. I'm not around this weekend though. L2B off road on Saturday and drinking heavily on Sunday.
    Kinesis Pro6
    Marin Nail Trail
    Cotic Solaris
  • MonkeyMonster
    MonkeyMonster Posts: 4,629
    Veronese68 wrote:
    itboffin wrote:
    MonkeyMonster wrote:
    request for tools if possible - need the tools(s) to extract a pre-industrial bottom bracket 6 pin old school square tapered one and to replace with a shimano sealed unit (that tool was thought around but gone walkies) if anyone london has the pieces - and not just a hammer and cold chisel please :D

    Pic?
    I was thinking the same, pics to be sure. I have the two pin thing and a selection of c spanners that normally work on the lock rings of pre-Raphaelite bottom brackets. I'm not around this weekend though. L2B off road on Saturday and drinking heavily on Sunday.

    Will take some this weekend - its on an old specialised stumpjumper circa '92ish
    Le Cannon [98 Cannondale M400] [FCN: 8]
    The Mad Monkey [2013 Hoy 003] [FCN: 4]
  • rubertoe
    rubertoe Posts: 3,994
    I have a tool to fit the new sealed unit.

    With regards to the dark ages BB, i reckon your better of going to LBS.
    "If you always do what you've always done, you'll always get what you've always got."

    PX Kaffenback 2 = Work Horse
    B-Twin Alur 700 = Sundays and Hills
  • Drew123
    Drew123 Posts: 61
    Removed, cleaned, greased and re-fitted extra snug my chainring bolts in an attempt to eliminate a recently developed creak.

    Looking forward to learning on my commute tomorrow that I failed...
  • rolf_f
    rolf_f Posts: 16,015
    I converted my Raleigh Randonneur from 6 speed to 7 speed. This involved getting my 7 speed touring wheel, easing it onto the Raleigh frame by pressing apart the dropouts* and then by adjusting the inner limit screw on the rear mech. That's all - aside from going out and riding it and revelling in the fact that it's top gear is now a practical 48-12 rather than an unnecessarily slow 48-14....... No further adjustments or tweaks required.

    It's at times like these that it is sometimes hard to see how things are so much better today.

    * I suppose I could cold set the frame but it hardly seems worth the effort.
    Faster than a tent.......
  • Kimble
    Kimble Posts: 53
    have just lost some serious sleep putting a full TT setup on my carbon road bike (rightly or wrongly)
    Dura ace shifters (super JE James sale), carbon base bar (bargain on ebay), carbon sram TT levers (also fleabay) and my own profile design cobra T2 arm rests and carbon extensions plus some salvaged compression-less outer cables and new inner cables. Serious fettling for a single 1/2 ironman but now I can convert my road bike to TT in about 15 mins should I need to:-)

    now to find a headset with a much lower stack height...
  • Drew123
    Drew123 Posts: 61
    Drew123 wrote:
    Removed, cleaned, greased and re-fitted extra snug my chainring bolts in an attempt to eliminate a recently developed creak.

    Looking forward to learning on my commute tomorrow that I failed...

    Failed, as expected to cure the creak, so today I removed, cleaned, greased and re-fitted my pedals. Not feeling optimistic about tomorrow's commute being silent either...
  • Gussio
    Gussio Posts: 2,452
    Drew123 wrote:
    Drew123 wrote:
    Removed, cleaned, greased and re-fitted extra snug my chainring bolts in an attempt to eliminate a recently developed creak.

    Looking forward to learning on my commute tomorrow that I failed...

    Failed, as expected to cure the creak, so today I removed, cleaned, greased and re-fitted my pedals. Not feeling optimistic about tomorrow's commute being silent either...

    Remove, lightly grease, and replace seatpost.... ;)
  • redvee
    redvee Posts: 11,922
    Time to retire the XT 747 SPDs after 15 years use. Bearings good on the axle but the cleat plate needed lubing every month as it creaked as I pedalled. New 520 SPDs off Amazon fitted at 01:30 this morning.
    I've added a signature to prove it is still possible.
  • Drew123
    Drew123 Posts: 61
    Gussio wrote:
    Drew123 wrote:
    Drew123 wrote:
    Removed, cleaned, greased and re-fitted extra snug my chainring bolts in an attempt to eliminate a recently developed creak.

    Looking forward to learning on my commute tomorrow that I failed...

    Failed, as expected to cure the creak, so today I removed, cleaned, greased and re-fitted my pedals. Not feeling optimistic about tomorrow's commute being silent either...

    Remove, lightly grease, and replace seatpost.... ;)

    Removed, lightly greased and replaced seatpost ( thx Gussio), although as the creak is there when I'm out of the saddle I'm slightly less confident than yesterday that I have resolved the issue...
  • desweller
    desweller Posts: 5,175
    Quick releases on wheels, headset/stem/bars...creaks can travel through the frame quite well, making them difficult to trace.
    - - - - - - - - - -
    On Strava.{/url}
  • asprilla
    asprilla Posts: 8,440
    I've adjusted the limit screw on the Soloist to stop the chain rubbing in top. The unfortunate side effect is that now it won't shift.
    Mud - Genesis Vapour CCX
    Race - Fuji Norcom Straight
    Sun - Cervelo R3
    Winter / Commute - Dolan ADX
  • daddy0
    daddy0 Posts: 686
    Cleaned bike after wet ride last night and put new wheels and tyres on. Went round the block and found the cassette was rattling. Changed the spacer which fixed it.
    https://cyclejames.wordpress.com/
  • Wheelspinner
    Wheelspinner Posts: 6,720
    In an attempt to build something I can actually ride (see Rants thread), spent some time this morning swapping the drops on the single speed for a flipped up stem and a flat - well, riser actually - bar. Meant new cables, and a general tweak. BB still creaking, grr. Headset sorted though, was a bit loose I think. If this setup works, may install geared drivetrain again, which will be a whole weekend of work!

    Few laps of local bike track and it seems ok.
    Open One+ BMC TE29 Seven 622SL On One Scandal Cervelo RS
  • CiB
    CiB Posts: 6,098
    Got a power link and some new bar tape on Saturday so thought it might be a good idea to strip the whole thing down to its component parts, give everything a jolly good clean and then put it all back together again. It's now like a new bike, and the few minutes spent making sure the gears are properly indexed is the cherry on the cake. Loverly.
  • adam0bmx0
    adam0bmx0 Posts: 263
    Rinsed, washed, de-greased and re-grased/lube'd

    Weighed it and it's coming in at 8.5kg, thought it mght be a bit lighter, not that it matters really.

    IMAG1354_zpsad852954.jpg
    If the bar ain't bending, you're just pretending
  • spasypaddy
    spasypaddy Posts: 5,180
    so did a fair bit today.

    took off old sram apex compact chainset and bottom bracket. replaced it with a standard double ultegra chainset and bottom bracket.

    so had to move front mech, but because its Di2 i didn't need to reindex or recable 8)

    and i discovered that one of the two bolts that holds my rear mech hanger on, had disappeared... so my rear mech hanger was hanging on by its fingernails... put a new bolt in but will keep an eye on it as this was quite scary at how badly it was hanging on. it explains the ghost shifts ive been having...

    then i added a few extra links to my chain due to the increase in size of my chainset.
    BMC TM01 - FCN 0
    Look 695 (Geared) - FCN 1
    Bowman Palace:R - FCN 1
    Cannondale CAAD 9 - FCN 2
    Premier (CX) - FCN 6
    Premier (fixed/SS) - FCN3
  • CiB
    CiB Posts: 6,098
    spasypaddy wrote:
    so had to move front mech, but because its Di2 i didn't need to reindex or recable 8)
    So is mine but it's worth checking the front if it's been off to make sure that it's not only parallel with the rings but that the grub screw is pressing tightly against the pad between the mech & seat tube so that it's pushing against something solid, and also to (re)set the upper & lower limit screws - if they're a bit out the self-trim doesn't work as well it can. Indexing the rear mech is a bit of fun that doesn't need much excuse to do again.
  • spasypaddy
    spasypaddy Posts: 5,180
    CiB wrote:
    spasypaddy wrote:
    so had to move front mech, but because its Di2 i didn't need to reindex or recable 8)
    So is mine but it's worth checking the front if it's been off to make sure that it's not only parallel with the rings but that the grub screw is pressing tightly against the pad between the mech & seat tube so that it's pushing against something solid, and also to (re)set the upper & lower limit screws - if they're a bit out the self-trim doesn't work as well it can. Indexing the rear mech is a bit of fun that doesn't need much excuse to do again.
    didnt need anything, didnt take it off, just undid and carefully moved it up slightly. and because i use the di2 band on there is no need to move the frame protector as its built into the band on. self trim was working perfectly in the workstand.

    god i love di2
    BMC TM01 - FCN 0
    Look 695 (Geared) - FCN 1
    Bowman Palace:R - FCN 1
    Cannondale CAAD 9 - FCN 2
    Premier (CX) - FCN 6
    Premier (fixed/SS) - FCN3
  • rubertoe
    rubertoe Posts: 3,994
    Tightened the FSA crank arn so that it wont fall off as per V suggestion.

    It didnt fall off and still waiting to hear from PX regarding a replacement bolt (that I have now purchased)
    "If you always do what you've always done, you'll always get what you've always got."

    PX Kaffenback 2 = Work Horse
    B-Twin Alur 700 = Sundays and Hills
  • redvee
    redvee Posts: 11,922
    redvee wrote:
    Replaced the KO'd axle in my Halo Aerorage hub with a QR axle to give me this.

    imag0113si.jpg

    When I get the wheel rebuilt I'll be using chaintugs with it so I'm confident it won't move.

    Finally put the hub into the SS tonight. When spinning it out of the frame the bearings didn't feel that good but when in the frame and a Shimano Internal cam QR done up they felt good. Off to look at rims and spokes now.
    I've added a signature to prove it is still possible.

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