Silly Commuter Stats

18889919394246

Comments

  • Clever Pun wrote:
    Oddjob62 wrote:
    nic_77 wrote:
    Walking miles should only be allowed if cycling specific footwear is worn... we could start a new sport of cleated sprinting :)

    hmmm maybe i should add the mile or so i did last night after my tyre exploded.

    unlucky, mine went the other day, I hissy fitted and got in a cab, that was pretty damned embarrassing

    I'm embarrassed reading it.
  • Clever Pun
    Clever Pun Posts: 6,778
    salsajake wrote:
    Clever Pun wrote:
    Oddjob62 wrote:
    nic_77 wrote:
    Walking miles should only be allowed if cycling specific footwear is worn... we could start a new sport of cleated sprinting :)

    hmmm maybe i should add the mile or so i did last night after my tyre exploded.

    unlucky, mine went the other day, I hissy fitted and got in a cab, that was pretty damned embarrassing

    I'm embarrassed reading it.

    it was my 4th puncture of the day, I didn't have a spare tyre it was 9.30ish and I was at least 11 miles from home. Didn't have a choice :x
    Purveyor of sonic doom

    Very Hairy Roadie - FCN 4
    Fixed Pista- FCN 5
    Beared Bromptonite - FCN 14
  • Clever Pun wrote:
    salsajake wrote:
    Clever Pun wrote:
    Oddjob62 wrote:
    nic_77 wrote:
    Walking miles should only be allowed if cycling specific footwear is worn... we could start a new sport of cleated sprinting :)

    hmmm maybe i should add the mile or so i did last night after my tyre exploded.

    unlucky, mine went the other day, I hissy fitted and got in a cab, that was pretty damned embarrassing

    I'm embarrassed reading it.

    it was my 4th puncture of the day, I didn't have a spare tyre it was 9.30ish and I was at least 11 miles from home. Didn't have a choice :x

    4 in a day?! Hissy fit away my friend, hissy fit away!
  • Clever Pun wrote:
    salsajake wrote:
    Clever Pun wrote:
    Oddjob62 wrote:
    nic_77 wrote:
    Walking miles should only be allowed if cycling specific footwear is worn... we could start a new sport of cleated sprinting :)

    hmmm maybe i should add the mile or so i did last night after my tyre exploded.

    unlucky, mine went the other day, I hissy fitted and got in a cab, that was pretty damned embarrassing

    I'm embarrassed reading it.

    it was my 4th puncture of the day, I didn't have a spare tyre it was 9.30ish and I was at least 11 miles from home. Didn't have a choice :x

    4 in a day?! Hissy fit away my friend, hissy fit away!
  • Clever Pun
    Clever Pun Posts: 6,778
    salsajake wrote:
    4 in a day?! Hissy fit away my friend, hissy fit away!

    if I was closer to the river I'd probably need a new bike right now :lol:
    Purveyor of sonic doom

    Very Hairy Roadie - FCN 4
    Fixed Pista- FCN 5
    Beared Bromptonite - FCN 14
  • itboffin
    itboffin Posts: 20,064
    After this mornings issues I'm on for a 50+ mile commute today not back for my first day back, I was already planning an extended inbound journey tomorrow add that to this weekends socials and I'm looking good to break 1000 miles YTD in feb. Very nice indeed :)
    Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
  • Clever Pun
    Clever Pun Posts: 6,778
    itboffin wrote:
    After this mornings issues I'm on for a 50+ mile commute today not back for my first day back, I was already planning an extended inbound journey tomorrow add that to this weekends socials and I'm looking good to break 1000 miles YTD in feb. Very nice indeed :)

    pffft welcome to last week
    Purveyor of sonic doom

    Very Hairy Roadie - FCN 4
    Fixed Pista- FCN 5
    Beared Bromptonite - FCN 14
  • itboffin
    itboffin Posts: 20,064
    Clever Pun wrote:
    itboffin wrote:
    After this mornings issues I'm on for a 50+ mile commute today not back for my first day back, I was already planning an extended inbound journey tomorrow add that to this weekends socials and I'm looking good to break 1000 miles YTD in feb. Very nice indeed :)

    pffft welcome to last week

    yeh but I can make up ground in four days that's taken you weeks to gain, how do you like them apples?!
    Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
  • Clever Pun
    Clever Pun Posts: 6,778
    itboffin wrote:
    Clever Pun wrote:
    itboffin wrote:
    After this mornings issues I'm on for a 50+ mile commute today not back for my first day back, I was already planning an extended inbound journey tomorrow add that to this weekends socials and I'm looking good to break 1000 miles YTD in feb. Very nice indeed :)

    pffft welcome to last week

    yeh but I can make up ground in four days that's taken you weeks to gain, how do you like them apples?!

    I know, your base miles for January were very damned impressive

    enjoy it while your knees last
    Purveyor of sonic doom

    Very Hairy Roadie - FCN 4
    Fixed Pista- FCN 5
    Beared Bromptonite - FCN 14
  • hambones
    hambones Posts: 407
    Yet more punctures yesterday - 11 in a week!!

    I was on the Scott yesterday and had a slow puncture on the front and a not so slow one on the back. I had to stop and pump it up 4 times to get me home. There was no way I was going to ride 8 miles on THOSE rims unlike last week! :)
    Still breathing.....
  • will3
    will3 Posts: 2,173
    hambones wrote:
    Yet more punctures yesterday - 11 in a week!!
    )

    She's certianly very active. Last night when I was fixing my bike of the afore mentioned chain problem, I took the rear wheel out, which necessitates deflating the tyre. When I put it back in and re-inflated it, it was leaking. Very strange
  • Clever Pun
    Clever Pun Posts: 6,778
    will3 wrote:
    hambones wrote:
    Yet more punctures yesterday - 11 in a week!!
    )

    She's certianly very active. Last night when I was fixing my bike of the afore mentioned chain problem, I took the rear wheel out, which necessitates deflating the tyre. When I put it back in and re-inflated it, it was leaking. Very strange

    sorry to hear that guys

    Hambones..11 wtf??
    Purveyor of sonic doom

    Very Hairy Roadie - FCN 4
    Fixed Pista- FCN 5
    Beared Bromptonite - FCN 14
  • jonginge
    jonginge Posts: 5,945
    will3 wrote:
    hambones wrote:
    Yet more punctures yesterday - 11 in a week!!
    )

    She's certianly very active. Last night when I was fixing my bike of the afore mentioned chain problem, I took the rear wheel out, which necessitates deflating the tyre. When I put it back in and re-inflated it, it was leaking. Very strange
    :? You have no quick release on your brakes?
    FCN 2-4 "Shut up legs", Jens Voigt
    Planet-x Scott
    Rides
  • CiB
    CiB Posts: 6,098
    hambones wrote:
    Yet more punctures yesterday - 11 in a week!!
    You have to take the big pointy piece of glass out before reinflating. :D

    Pffft* indeed.

    *top word that. I plan to use it in a formal context at least twice this week.
  • will3
    will3 Posts: 2,173
    JonGinge wrote:
    will3 wrote:
    hambones wrote:
    Yet more punctures yesterday - 11 in a week!!
    )

    She's certianly very active. Last night when I was fixing my bike of the afore mentioned chain problem, I took the rear wheel out, which necessitates deflating the tyre. When I put it back in and re-inflated it, it was leaking. Very strange
    :? You have no quick release on your brakes?

    Ah yes, well it's like this: on a CX (well mine anyway) I have canti brakes. Now of course you can realse the straddle cable which lets the brakes open a bit more, but only until the pad holder hits the frame. This is not enough to let a 32mm tyre pass in either direction without letting air out.
    Many's the time I've take a wheel out to fix a puncture, re-inflated it, then realised I'd forgotten the above fact, un-re-inflated it, re-fitted it, un-un-re-inflated it.
  • will3 wrote:
    JonGinge wrote:
    will3 wrote:
    hambones wrote:
    Yet more punctures yesterday - 11 in a week!!
    )

    She's certianly very active. Last night when I was fixing my bike of the afore mentioned chain problem, I took the rear wheel out, which necessitates deflating the tyre. When I put it back in and re-inflated it, it was leaking. Very strange
    :? You have no quick release on your brakes?

    Ah yes, well it's like this: on a CX (well mine anyway) I have canti brakes. Now of course you can realse the straddle cable which lets the brakes open a bit more, but only until the pad holder hits the frame. This is not enough to let a 32mm tyre pass in either direction without letting air out.
    Many's the time I've take a wheel out to fix a puncture, re-inflated it, then realised I'd forgotten the above fact, un-re-inflated it, re-fitted it, un-un-re-inflated it.

    so don't you have barrel adjusters on your cables as they leave the brakes? How do you tweak the gap from pad to wheel as the pads wear? Buy a couple of adjusters, stick them in, then you can take the tension off to get wheels in and out, and put the tension on to compensate for brake wear. They will be a godsend to you (assuming you don't have them and just didn't know what they are!)
  • itboffin
    itboffin Posts: 20,064
    will3 wrote:
    JonGinge wrote:
    will3 wrote:
    hambones wrote:
    Yet more punctures yesterday - 11 in a week!!
    )

    She's certianly very active. Last night when I was fixing my bike of the afore mentioned chain problem, I took the rear wheel out, which necessitates deflating the tyre. When I put it back in and re-inflated it, it was leaking. Very strange
    :? You have no quick release on your brakes?

    Ah yes, well it's like this: on a CX (well mine anyway) I have canti brakes. Now of course you can realse the straddle cable which lets the brakes open a bit more, but only until the pad holder hits the frame. This is not enough to let a 32mm tyre pass in either direction without letting air out.
    Many's the time I've take a wheel out to fix a puncture, re-inflated it, then realised I'd forgotten the above fact, un-re-inflated it, re-fitted it, un-un-re-inflated it.

    My CNC/Ti brakes on the Trek have no quick release :(
    Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
  • will3
    will3 Posts: 2,173
    salsajake wrote:
    will3 wrote:
    JonGinge wrote:
    will3 wrote:
    hambones wrote:
    Yet more punctures yesterday - 11 in a week!!
    )

    She's certianly very active. Last night when I was fixing my bike of the afore mentioned chain problem, I took the rear wheel out, which necessitates deflating the tyre. When I put it back in and re-inflated it, it was leaking. Very strange
    :? You have no quick release on your brakes?

    Ah yes, well it's like this: on a CX (well mine anyway) I have canti brakes. Now of course you can realse the straddle cable which lets the brakes open a bit more, but only until the pad holder hits the frame. This is not enough to let a 32mm tyre pass in either direction without letting air out.
    Many's the time I've take a wheel out to fix a puncture, re-inflated it, then realised I'd forgotten the above fact, un-re-inflated it, re-fitted it, un-un-re-inflated it.

    so don't you have barrel adjusters on your cables as they leave the brakes? How do you tweak the gap from pad to wheel as the pads wear? Buy a couple of adjusters, stick them in, then you can take the tension off to get wheels in and out, and put the tension on to compensate for brake wear. They will be a godsend to you (assuming you don't have them and just didn't know what they are!)
    There's barrel adjusters on the cross top levers (and yes, ta, I use them :wink: )
    The thing is it doesn't matter how much tension you take off the cable, hell you could cut it completely, the brake pads hit the seat stays/front fork before they're open far enough to let the tyre through.
  • I'll be dumping the Canti brakes on my pompino partly for this reason. I dont want to twiddle and adjust at brakes after changing a tire

    Also, because they are completely useless at stopping you... thats the other reason
  • wgwarburton
    wgwarburton Posts: 1,863
    I'll be dumping the Canti brakes on my pompino partly for this reason. I dont want to twiddle and adjust at brakes after changing a tire

    Also, because they are completely useless at stopping you... thats the other reason

    ? Methinks there's something wrong... Cantis should be capable of stopping anything without an engine... The adjustment is more critical than Vs, I believe, but if they are set up properly there shouldn't be any lack of stoppage.

    There should be a Q/R on the barrel adjuster (or the brake levers) that eases the blocks enough to pop the wheel out (Salsajake's specific issue with blocks fouling stays, notwithstanding).. or, as mentioned earlier, you can usually pop the straddle-wire easily enough.

    Make sure you've given the cantis a chance before you abandon them... Any alternative will have it's own issues.

    Cheers,
    W.
  • Cheers WGW
    I hear you.

    I have changed pads on the front and tested various amounts of toe in, I have what I would call Excessive toe in right now on the front to get some sort of braking power.

    The only way to get a decent stop out of them is to pull the brakes from right down on the drops at the end of the levers. So to me it seems a mechanical design issue that the pivot point of the levers is possibly the limiting factor. They are Tektro r200a levers i think and were sold to me on the basis they would work with Canti's

    I have given them enough chances and refinement, with some slight improvements, but I cant see how doing anything else is going to transform them from the power they have now to the sort of power I used to get out of my XT V-Brakes on the old MTB


    They might stay on now winter is almost over, but i will definitely not be enduring them again next winter.





    I'll sell you them for a few quid :lol:
  • itboffin
    itboffin Posts: 20,064
    Changing the pads to koolstops or swissstop makes a huge difference.
    Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
  • will3 wrote:
    salsajake wrote:
    will3 wrote:
    JonGinge wrote:
    will3 wrote:
    hambones wrote:
    Yet more punctures yesterday - 11 in a week!!
    )

    She's certianly very active. Last night when I was fixing my bike of the afore mentioned chain problem, I took the rear wheel out, which necessitates deflating the tyre. When I put it back in and re-inflated it, it was leaking. Very strange
    :? You have no quick release on your brakes?

    Ah yes, well it's like this: on a CX (well mine anyway) I have canti brakes. Now of course you can realse the straddle cable which lets the brakes open a bit more, but only until the pad holder hits the frame. This is not enough to let a 32mm tyre pass in either direction without letting air out.
    Many's the time I've take a wheel out to fix a puncture, re-inflated it, then realised I'd forgotten the above fact, un-re-inflated it, re-fitted it, un-un-re-inflated it.

    so don't you have barrel adjusters on your cables as they leave the brakes? How do you tweak the gap from pad to wheel as the pads wear? Buy a couple of adjusters, stick them in, then you can take the tension off to get wheels in and out, and put the tension on to compensate for brake wear. They will be a godsend to you (assuming you don't have them and just didn't know what they are!)
    There's barrel adjusters on the cross top levers (and yes, ta, I use them :wink: )
    The thing is it doesn't matter how much tension you take off the cable, hell you could cut it completely, the brake pads hit the seat stays/front fork before they're open far enough to let the tyre through.

    seems most odd, are you sure that a different use of the spacers (i.e. more spacers behind the pads rather than in front of them) together might not prevent the fouling issue? Its very odd for a CX frame/fork to have issues with 32s. What bike/brakeset is it?
  • wgwarburton
    wgwarburton Posts: 1,863
    I have changed pads on the front and tested various amounts of toe in, I have what I would call Excessive toe in right now on the front to get some sort of braking power.

    Have a read of this:
    http://sheldonbrown.com/canti-trad.html

    ..and related pages, to see if that sheds any light.

    .... They are Tektro r200a levers i think and were sold to me on the basis they would work with Canti's
    Yup, those should do.
    I'll sell you them for a few quid :lol:

    What type are they?

    Cheers,
    W.
  • will3
    will3 Posts: 2,173
    I'll be dumping the Canti brakes on my pompino partly for this reason. I dont want to twiddle and adjust at brakes after changing a tire

    Also, because they are completely useless at stopping you... thats the other reason

    Ah you don't actually have to adjust anything after chaning the tyre, you just can't get the wheel out with the tyre inflated. Maybe the pompino has greater clearances.

    Also, because they are completely useless at stopping you... thats the other reason

    Not strictly true: if you adjust them just right and it's perfectly dry and it's a full moon and you've given written notice of your intention to stop then they're adequate
  • will3
    will3 Posts: 2,173
    edited February 2010
    salsajake wrote:

    seems most odd, are you sure that a different use of the spacers (i.e. more spacers behind the pads rather than in front of them) together might not prevent the fouling issue? Its very odd for a CX frame/fork to have issues with 32s. What bike/brakeset is it?

    very sure. Spacers will make no difference, the only thing that might would be wafer thin brake blocks

    it's a 2008 Genesis vapour with shimano 550s

    ps I lied, actually they're 38s, but quite skinny ones. However, not sure a 32 would go either really.
  • will3
    will3 Posts: 2,173
    Cheers WGW
    I hear you.

    I have changed pads on the front and tested various amounts of toe in, I have what I would call Excessive toe in right now on the front to get some sort of braking power.

    The only way to get a decent stop out of them is to pull the brakes from right down on the drops at the end of the levers. So to me it seems a mechanical design issue that the pivot point of the levers is possibly the limiting factor. They are Tektro r200a levers i think and were sold to me on the basis they would work with Canti's

    I have given them enough chances and refinement, with some slight improvements, but I cant see how doing anything else is going to transform them from the power they have now to the sort of power I used to get out of my XT V-Brakes on the old MTB


    They might stay on now winter is almost over, but i will definitely not be enduring them again next winter.
    :
    BK what are you planning on replacing them with?
    If you're running stis you can't just pop normal v brakes on coz the cable pull isn't enough (you can use a travel agent I guess). Mini v's work after a fashion, but if you've got muds on too, there isn't enough room under the cable for the mudguards.
  • will3 wrote:

    it's a 2008 Genesis vapour with shimano 550s

    That must be an incredibly narrow frame or fork then. :( The Kona Jake frame & fork have enough clearance for 35c tyres once you pop the straddle cable.

    Oh and a big +1 for the koolstop pads. Much better braking since I started using those. Before I switch to those I was blowing through a set of pads every few 100 miles :shock:

    Mind you I had to buy some Kore Race brakes to replace the original Avid shorty to stop brake judder. I should have waited 12months to get the bike as Kona changed over to using those the next year anyway.

    Mike
  • will3
    will3 Posts: 2,173
    mudcovered wrote:
    will3 wrote:

    it's a 2008 Genesis vapour with shimano 550s

    That must be an incredibly narrow frame or fork then. :( The Kona Jake frame & fork have enough clearance for 35c tyres once you pop the straddle cable.

    It is. I can only just get the 38 tyre and mudguards on without everthing jamming.
  • They're Planet-X frog bollix or something they are called.

    I will be replacing the levers too Will3. CaneCreek do a nice drop bar V-Brake lever.

    Will probably look at getting a set of Avid SD's or Shimano XT's like I used to have. But to start I will get the levers alone and use old Tektro V Brake arms i already have in the spares.