Thread to tell everyone what bike gear you've just bought !

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Comments

  • the_rover
    the_rover Posts: 402
    a £5 cycle to work scheme voucher to get a new puncture repair kit.

    Just to get the 20% off halfrauds card that lasts a year that goes with it ( no, it doesnt' stack with BC discount, but can be used with pre-paid gift cards)

    That sounds like a good deal, is the 20% just off cycling related stuff? Do you have a link please?

    Cheers Stuart. :D
  • wolfsbane2k
    wolfsbane2k Posts: 3,056
    The Rover wrote:
    a £5 cycle to work scheme voucher to get a new puncture repair kit.

    Just to get the 20% off halfrauds card that lasts a year that goes with it ( no, it doesnt' stack with BC discount, but can be used with pre-paid gift cards)

    That sounds like a good deal, is the 20% just off cycling related stuff? Do you have a link please?

    Cheers Stuart. :D

    You'd have to get that through your employer benefits scheme.
    Intent on Cycling Commuting on a budget, but keep on breaking/crashing/finding nice stuff to buy.
    Bike 1 (Broken) - Bike 2(Borked) - Bike 3(broken spokes) - Bike 4( Needs Work) - Bike 5 (in bits) - Bike 6* ...
  • dhope
    dhope Posts: 6,699
    The Rover wrote:
    a £5 cycle to work scheme voucher to get a new puncture repair kit.

    Just to get the 20% off halfrauds card that lasts a year that goes with it ( no, it doesnt' stack with BC discount, but can be used with pre-paid gift cards)

    That sounds like a good deal, is the 20% just off cycling related stuff? Do you have a link please?

    Cheers Stuart. :D

    You'd have to get that through your employer benefits scheme.

    Looks like this
    https://www.cycle2work.info/employees
    "20% OFF CYCLE PARTS & ACCESSORIES DISCOUNT CARD - unlimited use during your initial hire period. The card is issued once you have collected your Cycle2work bike."

    So you need to be signed up to the Halfords flavour of C2W. Damn, my place is Cyclescheme.
    Rose Xeon CW Disc
    CAAD12 Disc
    Condor Tempo
  • Pair of Fulcrum 5 LG clinchers to replace the stock Axis sport I got on the Allez.
    Did the same myself, a good move IMO.
  • hopkinb
    hopkinb Posts: 7,129
    50mm carbon deep section wheels. I can't wait for the next time I bump into abfg and get all the grief!! :lol:

    Boring bits to go on the wheels; cassette, disc rotors (trying the shimano ice tec ones), valve extenders.
  • meanredspider
    meanredspider Posts: 12,337
    On the Halfords tool chests, fortunately stock was only their display models so they phoned me today and I was able to ask them to hold the ones they are ordering in
    ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH
  • ryan_w-2
    ryan_w-2 Posts: 1,162
    Kask Protone :mrgreen:
    Specialized Allez Sprint Disc --- Specialized S-Works SL7

    IG: RhinosWorkshop
  • the_rover
    the_rover Posts: 402
    dhope wrote:
    The Rover wrote:
    a £5 cycle to work scheme voucher to get a new puncture repair kit.

    Just to get the 20% off halfrauds card that lasts a year that goes with it ( no, it doesnt' stack with BC discount, but can be used with pre-paid gift cards)

    That sounds like a good deal, is the 20% just off cycling related stuff? Do you have a link please?

    Cheers Stuart. :D

    You'd have to get that through your employer benefits scheme.

    Looks like this
    https://www.cycle2work.info/employees
    "20% OFF CYCLE PARTS & ACCESSORIES DISCOUNT CARD - unlimited use during your initial hire period. The card is issued once you have collected your Cycle2work bike."

    So you need to be signed up to the Halfords flavour of C2W. Damn, my place is Cyclescheme.

    Thanks both for the replies, dare I say it but I've got enough bikes and my cash is currently being ploughed into VW T5 ownership!! :mrgreen:
  • daniel_b
    daniel_b Posts: 12,065
    HOW DID I NOT KNOW THESE EXISTED!!

    kmc-x11sl-dlc-chain-blk-yel.jpg?w=2000&h=2000&a=7

    And WHY did none of you tell me?!?

    Two being ordered tomorrow :D
    Felt F70 05 (Turbo)
    Marin Palisades Trail 91 and 06
    Scott CR1 SL 12
    Cannondale Synapse Adventure 15 & 16 Di2
    Scott Foil 18
  • daniel_b
    daniel_b Posts: 12,065
    Now ordered :mrgreen:

    Small refurb planned for the CR1 next year, new GP 4000S II tyres, 25mm front, 23mm rear, new Supacaz bartape, new second hand ceramic bottom bracket, and an oval chainring to replace the current 36 whilst I have the crankset off, oh and now this chain too :D
    Felt F70 05 (Turbo)
    Marin Palisades Trail 91 and 06
    Scott CR1 SL 12
    Cannondale Synapse Adventure 15 & 16 Di2
    Scott Foil 18
  • gabriel959
    gabriel959 Posts: 4,227
    Daniel B wrote:
    Now ordered :mrgreen:

    Small refurb planned for the CR1 next year, new GP 4000S II tyres, 25mm front, 23mm rear, new Supacaz bartape, new second hand ceramic bottom bracket, and an oval chainring to replace the current 36 whilst I have the crankset off, oh and now this chain too :D


    Mmm, are you sure you want a wider tyre at the front? Shouldn't it be the other way around?
    x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x
    Commuting / Winter rides - Jamis Renegade Expert
    Pootling / Offroad - All-City Macho Man Disc
    Fast rides Cannondale SuperSix Ultegra
  • apreading
    apreading Posts: 4,535
    gabriel959 wrote:
    Daniel B wrote:
    Now ordered :mrgreen:

    Small refurb planned for the CR1 next year, new GP 4000S II tyres, 25mm front, 23mm rear, new Supacaz bartape, new second hand ceramic bottom bracket, and an oval chainring to replace the current 36 whilst I have the crankset off, oh and now this chain too :D


    Mmm, are you sure you want a wider tyre at the front? Shouldn't it be the other way around?

    Yeah - that is mountain bike thinking, wanting more grip at the front and allowing the rear to slide first.

    On the road, the norm is for a bigger rear tyre on the basis that is where most of the weight rests.
  • jspash
    jspash Posts: 107
    4iiii (left only) power meter. The price was right (<£400) and now I can quantify my "power awesome" :mrgreen:

    it's not that awesome...

    Oddly (or not) I'm now subconsciously favouring my left leg. Evidenced by a sore left knee. Something that has never happened before. Hopefully this will subside once the novelty of having new toy has worn off.

    So what's the best way of using a PM? I thought I'd just watch everything on youtube but I keep ending up on those douchey videos by that massive douche DurianRider. Is there anything else out there? GCN has a few, but limited videos. A book maybe?
  • ryan_w-2
    ryan_w-2 Posts: 1,162
    Life without power, is not life... Buddha
    Specialized Allez Sprint Disc --- Specialized S-Works SL7

    IG: RhinosWorkshop
  • daniel_b
    daniel_b Posts: 12,065
    apreading wrote:
    gabriel959 wrote:
    Daniel B wrote:
    Now ordered :mrgreen:

    Small refurb planned for the CR1 next year, new GP 4000S II tyres, 25mm front, 23mm rear, new Supacaz bartape, new second hand ceramic bottom bracket, and an oval chainring to replace the current 36 whilst I have the crankset off, oh and now this chain too :D


    Mmm, are you sure you want a wider tyre at the front? Shouldn't it be the other way around?

    Yeah - that is mountain bike thinking, wanting more grip at the front and allowing the rear to slide first.

    On the road, the norm is for a bigger rear tyre on the basis that is where most of the weight rests.

    Nope this is a CR1 and clearance is TIGHT at the rear, so just going for a tad more comfort on the front, and sticking with the norm on the rear - seen too many pics of CR1's with damaged rear stays to risk it.
    Felt F70 05 (Turbo)
    Marin Palisades Trail 91 and 06
    Scott CR1 SL 12
    Cannondale Synapse Adventure 15 & 16 Di2
    Scott Foil 18
  • bendertherobot
    bendertherobot Posts: 11,684
    Daniel B wrote:
    apreading wrote:
    gabriel959 wrote:
    Daniel B wrote:
    Now ordered :mrgreen:

    Small refurb planned for the CR1 next year, new GP 4000S II tyres, 25mm front, 23mm rear, new Supacaz bartape, new second hand ceramic bottom bracket, and an oval chainring to replace the current 36 whilst I have the crankset off, oh and now this chain too :D


    Mmm, are you sure you want a wider tyre at the front? Shouldn't it be the other way around?

    Yeah - that is mountain bike thinking, wanting more grip at the front and allowing the rear to slide first.

    On the road, the norm is for a bigger rear tyre on the basis that is where most of the weight rests.

    Nope this is a CR1 and clearance is TIGHT at the rear, so just going for a tad more comfort on the front, and sticking with the norm on the rear - seen too many pics of CR1's with damaged rear stays to risk it.

    25c and Quattro clearance on my Six is minimal. So could go back to 23 for same reason. But discovered new Racing zero are 1mm or so narrower. So that should take care of it..............
    My blog: http://www.roubaixcycling.cc (kit reviews and other musings)
    https://twitter.com/roubaixcc
    Facebook? No. Just say no.
  • dyrlac
    dyrlac Posts: 751
    jspash wrote:
    4iiii (left only) power meter. The price was right (<£400) and now I can quantify my "power awesome" :mrgreen:

    it's not that awesome...

    Oddly (or not) I'm now subconsciously favouring my left leg. Evidenced by a sore left knee. Something that has never happened before. Hopefully this will subside once the novelty of having new toy has worn off.

    So what's the best way of using a PM? I thought I'd just watch everything on youtube but I keep ending up on those douchey videos by that massive douche DurianRider. Is there anything else out there? GCN has a few, but limited videos. A book maybe?

    Allen & Coggan's Training and Racing with a Power Meter is the gold standard. The tables (which invariably show that you are "untrained") make for depressing reading though, so consider yourself warned. Some of the stuff on Zwiftblog.com is helpful if you insist on videos (applicable even if not on Zwift, but you should be on Zwift).
  • daniel_b
    daniel_b Posts: 12,065
    Daniel B wrote:
    apreading wrote:
    gabriel959 wrote:
    Daniel B wrote:
    Now ordered :mrgreen:

    Small refurb planned for the CR1 next year, new GP 4000S II tyres, 25mm front, 23mm rear, new Supacaz bartape, new second hand ceramic bottom bracket, and an oval chainring to replace the current 36 whilst I have the crankset off, oh and now this chain too :D


    Mmm, are you sure you want a wider tyre at the front? Shouldn't it be the other way around?

    Yeah - that is mountain bike thinking, wanting more grip at the front and allowing the rear to slide first.

    On the road, the norm is for a bigger rear tyre on the basis that is where most of the weight rests.

    Nope this is a CR1 and clearance is TIGHT at the rear, so just going for a tad more comfort on the front, and sticking with the norm on the rear - seen too many pics of CR1's with damaged rear stays to risk it.

    25c and Quattro clearance on my Six is minimal. So could go back to 23 for same reason. But discovered new Racing zero are 1mm or so narrower. So that should take care of it..............

    So not Scotts alone then!

    I discussed the tyre options on the CR1 thread last year, and I wasn't the only one to consider running 25 up front, and 23 on the rear.
    At present I generally run them at 90 rear, 80 front, so with a slightly wider tyre can probably drop it to 75 or so.
    Felt F70 05 (Turbo)
    Marin Palisades Trail 91 and 06
    Scott CR1 SL 12
    Cannondale Synapse Adventure 15 & 16 Di2
    Scott Foil 18
  • luv2ride
    luv2ride Posts: 2,367
    Daniel B wrote:
    Daniel B wrote:
    apreading wrote:
    gabriel959 wrote:
    Daniel B wrote:
    Now ordered :mrgreen:

    Small refurb planned for the CR1 next year, new GP 4000S II tyres, 25mm front, 23mm rear, new Supacaz bartape, new second hand ceramic bottom bracket, and an oval chainring to replace the current 36 whilst I have the crankset off, oh and now this chain too :D


    Mmm, are you sure you want a wider tyre at the front? Shouldn't it be the other way around?

    Yeah - that is mountain bike thinking, wanting more grip at the front and allowing the rear to slide first.

    On the road, the norm is for a bigger rear tyre on the basis that is where most of the weight rests.

    Nope this is a CR1 and clearance is TIGHT at the rear, so just going for a tad more comfort on the front, and sticking with the norm on the rear - seen too many pics of CR1's with damaged rear stays to risk it.

    25c and Quattro clearance on my Six is minimal. So could go back to 23 for same reason. But discovered new Racing zero are 1mm or so narrower. So that should take care of it..............

    So not Scotts alone then!

    I discussed the tyre options on the CR1 thread last year, and I wasn't the only one to consider running 25 up front, and 23 on the rear.
    At present I generally run them at 90 rear, 80 front, so with a slightly wider tyre can probably drop it to 75 or so.

    I still say that 25mm Vittoria Paves run fine on the rear of my CR1 SL, with a wide'ish carbon rim. Checked over the weekend and no rubbing to see. Have often been tempted to try them in 27mm but that would probably be pushing the clearance too far. Have therefore ordered more 25's as they are currently the best tyre I've tried by miles (preferred over the 28mm Conti 4000ii's on my Solace). Still to try the latex tube option, but cant really be bothered TBH...
    Titus Silk Road Ti rigid 29er - Scott Solace 10 disc - Kinesis Crosslight Pro6 disc - Scott CR1 SL - Pinnacle Arkose X 650b - Pinnacle Arkose singlespeed - Specialized Singlecross...& an Ernie Ball Musicman Stingray 4 string...
  • meursault
    meursault Posts: 1,433
    Superstition sets the whole world in flames; philosophy quenches them.

    Voltaire
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    Daniel B wrote:
    apreading wrote:
    gabriel959 wrote:
    Daniel B wrote:
    Now ordered :mrgreen:

    Small refurb planned for the CR1 next year, new GP 4000S II tyres, 25mm front, 23mm rear, new Supacaz bartape, new second hand ceramic bottom bracket, and an oval chainring to replace the current 36 whilst I have the crankset off, oh and now this chain too :D


    Mmm, are you sure you want a wider tyre at the front? Shouldn't it be the other way around?

    Yeah - that is mountain bike thinking, wanting more grip at the front and allowing the rear to slide first.

    On the road, the norm is for a bigger rear tyre on the basis that is where most of the weight rests.

    Nope this is a CR1 and clearance is TIGHT at the rear, so just going for a tad more comfort on the front, and sticking with the norm on the rear - seen too many pics of CR1's with damaged rear stays to risk it.

    That's what I've ended up doing on mine. 25mm Pro4SC at the front and a 23mm Pro4 Endurance at the back. The clearance looks to be about the same now. Think I'll still try to avoid anything that's been recently surface dressed though; I've enough gouges in both chainstays and fork.

    If I was choosing a new bike now I think I'd be going for something like a Genesis Datum...
  • daniel_b
    daniel_b Posts: 12,065
    I have Pro 4 Endurance on it at the mo, black and yellow if you had to ask.

    Been happy with them.
    Felt F70 05 (Turbo)
    Marin Palisades Trail 91 and 06
    Scott CR1 SL 12
    Cannondale Synapse Adventure 15 & 16 Di2
    Scott Foil 18
  • kingstonian
    kingstonian Posts: 2,847
    hopkinb wrote:
    50mm carbon deep section wheels. I can't wait for the next time I bump into abfg and get all the grief!! :lol:

    Boring bits to go on the wheels; cassette, disc rotors (trying the shimano ice tec ones), valve extenders.

    Which wheels did you go for?
  • kingstonian
    kingstonian Posts: 2,847
    Getting ready for the winter, so a Sportful Fiandre Extreme neoshell jacket. Was heavily discounted already, then got another 10% off, then for some unfathomable reason another 10% was deducted so it ended up being about £115, so I'm happy with that.

    Oh, and a Castelli cap, cos I wanted something to reduce the amount of rain thumping into my eyes. The cap will live at work and only come out for rainy rides home.
  • hopkinb
    hopkinb Posts: 7,129
    hopkinb wrote:
    50mm carbon deep section wheels. I can't wait for the next time I bump into abfg and get all the grief!! :lol:

    Boring bits to go on the wheels; cassette, disc rotors (trying the shimano ice tec ones), valve extenders.

    Which wheels did you go for?

    The Prime RP50s off wiggle. Though it's not proving to be a smooth purchase..
  • bendertherobot
    bendertherobot Posts: 11,684
    2 x Schwalbe G-One 38c from Merlin £40
    2 x Schwalbe X-One from Merlin £44
    2 x Assos Mille jerseys from Assos Outlet £59 each. I have 4 of these. They really are a very simple, superb jersey.
    My blog: http://www.roubaixcycling.cc (kit reviews and other musings)
    https://twitter.com/roubaixcc
    Facebook? No. Just say no.
  • Stevo C
    Stevo C Posts: 132
    Luv2ride wrote:
    Daniel B wrote:
    Daniel B wrote:
    apreading wrote:
    gabriel959 wrote:
    Daniel B wrote:
    Now ordered :mrgreen:

    Small refurb planned for the CR1 next year, new GP 4000S II tyres, 25mm front, 23mm rear, new Supacaz bartape, new second hand ceramic bottom bracket, and an oval chainring to replace the current 36 whilst I have the crankset off, oh and now this chain too :D


    Mmm, are you sure you want a wider tyre at the front? Shouldn't it be the other way around?

    Yeah - that is mountain bike thinking, wanting more grip at the front and allowing the rear to slide first.

    On the road, the norm is for a bigger rear tyre on the basis that is where most of the weight rests.

    Nope this is a CR1 and clearance is TIGHT at the rear, so just going for a tad more comfort on the front, and sticking with the norm on the rear - seen too many pics of CR1's with damaged rear stays to risk it.

    25c and Quattro clearance on my Six is minimal. So could go back to 23 for same reason. But discovered new Racing zero are 1mm or so narrower. So that should take care of it..............

    So not Scotts alone then!

    I discussed the tyre options on the CR1 thread last year, and I wasn't the only one to consider running 25 up front, and 23 on the rear.
    At present I generally run them at 90 rear, 80 front, so with a slightly wider tyre can probably drop it to 75 or so.

    I still say that 25mm Vittoria Paves run fine on the rear of my CR1 SL, with a wide'ish carbon rim. Checked over the weekend and no rubbing to see. Have often been tempted to try them in 27mm but that would probably be pushing the clearance too far. Have therefore ordered more 25's as they are currently the best tyre I've tried by miles (preferred over the 28mm Conti 4000ii's on my Solace). Still to try the latex tube option, but cant really be bothered TBH...

    25mm Paves on DT Swiss RR411 rims fit fine on my CR1 as well - Dura Ace hubs, so have no worries about the QR allowing the wheel to move
    cheers

    Steve
  • daniel_b
    daniel_b Posts: 12,065
    I'm clearly too risk averse!
    Felt F70 05 (Turbo)
    Marin Palisades Trail 91 and 06
    Scott CR1 SL 12
    Cannondale Synapse Adventure 15 & 16 Di2
    Scott Foil 18
  • itboffin
    itboffin Posts: 20,072
    2 x Schwalbe G-One 38c from Merlin £40
    2 x Schwalbe X-One from Merlin £44
    2 x Assos Mille jerseys from Assos Outlet £59 each. I have 4 of these. They really are a very simple, superb jersey.

    link?
    Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
  • itboffin
    itboffin Posts: 20,072
    25c on the front makes sense even if you cant 25 the rear just because you're going to be taking a lot of road buzz through the frontend, i did two long rides back to back last weekend over shite roads and i was knackered from that more than the distance or climbing, mind you i'm now in the process of swapping out 3T finishing kit for Zipp, which is heavier but more comfortable over the frankly shocking state of our roads.
    Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.