Fixed/Single Speed Commuting

lost_in_thought

Jay dubbleU wrote:

Had a look at the Fuji - seem very light but 48/14 is a bit fierce for me

That's what i started off on in London, it is big.

But bear in mind it's child's play to switch out the sprocket - a bit trickier to do the chainring.

gtvlusso

Mmmm - Miche track sprockets and a lockring tool!!!!!! Or Stronglight chainrings and a screwdriver!!!

_Brun_

I've just ordered the following:

On-One CNC Chromoly Screw-On Track Cog 3/32in 18T*
Planet X Track Lockring
Hozan C-205 Lockring Wrench

I await their delivery with nervous anticipation.

*I have a relatively big ring

biondino

Hey, you know I haven't ridden the fixie since I picked it up? Well, I have been thinking and I reckon if it had (nearly) as good brakes as my road bikes I'd be much happier to get back on it. This might, however, mean adding a rear brake. Onto a track frame. Is this going to be easy? Is there even any point? Or should I upgrade the frankly useless front brake? Or figure out why it's useless (the guy who put the bike together has done a sterling job and it's hard to imagine he skimped intentionally on the brake)?

Thoughts and advice, as ever, welcome...

gtvlusso

Blondie - I had the same kinda brake issue. Single pivot Dia Compe front caliper + cheap blocks, bad news in traffic - what I originally fitted. Changed it for a dual pivot shimano Tiagra caliper (£17.99) with it's own brand pads - works a treat! Loads more braking force and half decent pads too.

Double pivot is the way forward!!

Fixie does not need a rear brake - as you get used to it, you will be able to slide the back tyre to brake - requires a bit of manliness, but a few outings in the park and a couple of "offs" usually solves. Also cabling may be an issue if there are no braze ons to hold the cables on the rear brake - nylon ties are not man enough for it. Drilling the rear stay is childs play as long as there is enough material in the stay to drill!!! However, if you are not confident get an LBS to do it - again, I would not bother. The front brake is where the real stopping power is on a bike.

The brake "drop" needs to be measured from the bridge to the rim - somewhere between 40 - 45mm normally. Deep drop would be up to 57mm - you need deep drop calipers for this!!!!

Again. I would not bother - change out your front brake for a dual pivot one with good pads and try that......

Greg T

I personally see no point in running a bike in town with fewer than two brakes. It's an affectation to run with just a front one, rear wheel braking isn't easy, particulalry if you've got a decent gear going on and if you need to urgently wash off some speed is this the best way to go....?

Are you drilled from brakes at the back? If not then you'll need to see if the bridge has the right clearance to fit a set of brakes on so that they can grip your rims. Then you've got to get it drilled..... I've never tried drilled through a metal tube - not sure I'd want to try on my bike.

Also you might need some lug work to harness the cable outers to......

Also I've no idea if the bridge is robust enough to take the stresses of braking.

Hmmmmm - we need more data

But apart from that - all good.....

biondino

gtvlusso wrote:

Blondie - I had the same kinda brake issue. Single pivot Dia Compe front caliper + cheap blocks, bad news in traffic - what I originally fitted. Changed it for a dual pivot shimano Tiagra caliper (£17.99) with it's own brand pads - works a treat! Loads more braking force and half decent pads too.

Hmm, the current brake is Tiagra. The pads are VERY close to the rim - seems like that should be a good thing but might it not be? The stupid Paul one-finger brake lever is definitely going (brand new - anyone want to make me an offer for it) as I want something bigger and comfier with more leverage.

As for the rear - I'll have a look and see what it might need. I've had enough marginal braking incidents commuting to want every inch of stopping power!

gtvlusso

Hmm - more leverage. I use a Dia-Compe 188 Aero lever - reverse action - loads of leverage. Ultimately, sliding the back has saved my butt a few times, but you need to practice this! What about just trying new softer pads for now? May save you some expense and give you enough confidence to use it?

vorsprung

I'm kinda perplexed at comments on making the bike light
Shirely if you are commuting:

*carrying shopping/clothes/lunch/laptop

*on those 8 ton marathon+ tyres

*the diet program isn't compulsary...a 15kg bike isn't a lot compared with a 82kg human

gtvlusso

With an 85" fixed gear, you want to pull as little weight up a hill as you can get away with - hence the reason for light components on race bikes and so on. However, I manage to get all my daily stuff in a courier bag as I prefer the weight being on me than the bike - keeps the bike nimble and slim in traffic and quick off the mark....Ultimately, you have to ask yourself, what do you actually need to carry rather than just shoving everything in a pannier - I am sure I would just fill a pannier with crap I never use!

If you want to ride a bike that is 15kg +, then go ahead! But a light bike will be faster and far more fun!

I often chat to a guy at work who comes in with double panniers on a converted MTB/tourer - it is firghteningly heavy and he carries all sorts of stuff for the old "just in case" scenario - he does the same mileage as me, but it takes him twice as long.....

Also means that I can go further for longer with less effort....! I am 85kg, my fixie is about 7kg, my race bike about 7kg and my mtb about 10kg - the fixie was built light and will be by default (no gears and so on!), but the race bike and mtb are at their factory weights.

lost_in_thought

Blondie - step one: upgrade the pads/blocks on the front brake, replace the lever, tighten the cable (possibly).

If that doesn't work well enough then go for the back brake. If there's not a bolt hole on the rear fork you'll need to find someone willing to drill one out, which is harder than you might think.

I would definitely recommend 2 brakes, and tell everyone recommending skid stops to growTFU.

gtvlusso

Lol - I have been "rinsed!"..:-)

Eat My Dust

lost_in_thought wrote:

I would definitely recommend 2 brakes, and tell everyone recommending skid stops to growTFU.

I don't know about that. My 1st bike when I was a kid was a Boxer. It only had a front brake and you could also back pedal to stop. I was allowed out on the roads with that and I was only about 7 yo. Saying that I did catapult over the handlebars on a steep decent. Took most of the skin off of my face!!!

Jay dubbleU

Not really planning to use the fixie as a load lugger - I've got heavy duty tyres and panniers on the Giant to do the daily commute - the idea for the fixie is really as a fun bike, social rides, pub rides etc so not carrying a lot of weight but I would prefer two brakes - at least initally - maybe take the rear off when I get more confident - or consume more alcohol :roll:

wgwarburton

Greg T wrote:

Buns are you seriously advocating a skid stop into a track stand?

Now I can do a little skid stop and I can do a bit of trackstanding but getting from skid stop to trackstand.....

Sorry- been busy/away.

Um, kinda... Not one of those massive smoking skid stops, though, just locking up for the last quarter turn of the wheel.

Cheers,
W.

Clever Pun

Does anyone have a spare 110 phil wood axle????

no? didn't think so...feck

itboffin

Funny because its true

http://blog.wired.com/gadgets/2009/04/f ... licab.html

gtvlusso

Fixie chain tension......!!!!!

What do you go for?

a, Tight as a marigold glove
b, Compromise of French Fisherman (a little give)
c, As flexible as a Gordon Brown apology (Flapping about all over the shop)

Personally, I have gone for option b. My chaintugs don't fit very well though - have to get a file out and do some damage tonight to the fork ends.

Greg T

B

Though my new hubs are so tight in the track ends I have to use a hammer (tool fine adjusting) and a block of wood to "nudge" them into the correct alignment.

itboffin

gtvlusso wrote:

Fixie chain tension......!!!!!

What do you go for?

a, Tight as a marigold glove
b, Compromise of French Fisherman (a little give)
c, As flexible as a Gordon Brown apology (Flapping about all over the shop)

Personally, I have gone for option b. My chaintugs don't fit very well though - have to get a file out and do some damage tonight to the fork ends.

I've messed around with chain tension lately and settled on a little more than normal give but in no way would I ever associate myself with French Fisherman :shock:

gtvlusso

I put this on LGFSS......pointless really as they only seem to car about cards in spokes, top tube pads and Rapha.....

I will go with "reasonably tight", but not chainstay bendingly tight.....

Christophe3967

WGWarburton wrote:

Greg T wrote:

Buns are you seriously advocating a skid stop into a track stand?

Now I can do a little skid stop and I can do a bit of trackstanding but getting from skid stop to trackstand.....

Sorry- been busy/away.

Um, kinda... Not one of those massive smoking skid stops, though, just locking up for the last quarter turn of the wheel.

Cheers,
W.

If you want your trackstand to really impress the burds better look at this. You don't often see this on the embankment.

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/newstop ... fjord.html

itboffin

I'm long overdue a new SS frame but I have a couple of questions.

1. Steel or Alu?
i'm currently running on steel but would like something more aero shaped but not carbon.

2. To aero bar or not to aero bar?
I try to only use the SS on the less hilly rides now what with me old knees and all and I've found the need for a lower more stretched position would be nice sometimes, some of the aero set-ups look pretty relaxed.

3. Dolan FXE or Ribble TT frame?
The FXE is pretty much a track frame with bosses, the TT basic frame has lovely curves and is very lightweight.





4. I'd need new shoes for a new bike, wouldn't I...?

gtvlusso

1, Steel - nice flex, but weighty, non aero and now used by the uber cool in Laaandaaan. Alloy - for weight conscious riders who are gonna murder it in all weather - Therefore Alloy!

2, Personally, I am a cowhorn man - however, I would go Aero if you are gonna use this as a trainer.

3, Dolan, no question (for me!!)! Or check on Ebay for "track frame" Cheapy Aero frames from the US. I have a feeling that PLanet X do something along the lines you are after.....Ribble looks very nice though and they have a very good reputation

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NEW2009-721TR-PIS ... 240%3A1308

4, Yep! Defo - I would suggest Sidi, light, comfy and reassuringly expensive.

Only concerns are - Wheels. Are you gonna use a BMX freewheel on track hubs or a freewheel hub - frame spacing may become an issue at the rear and you will have drive line issues (i.e. bad noises as you ride.

Track frame - 120mm space - 42mm driveline - track hub with BMX freewheel
Road frame - 130mm space - 43.5 + driveline (depending on double or triple chainset) and a hub/ss converter pack.....

gtvlusso

This kinda thing right?

http://www.boardmanbikes.com/road/road_comp_sc.html

itboffin

gtvlusso wrote:

Track frame - 120mm space - 42mm driveline - track hub with BMX freewheel
Road frame - 130mm space - 43.5 + driveline (depending on double or triple chainset) and a hub/ss converter pack.....

Yep steel is very flexi or at least my 531 is, the chainline issue is why I'm not looking at a track frame, it has to fit 130mm and I might even go for the velosolo cog kit on a dished road wheel rather than the heavy noisy BMX freewheel.

I have no need for the FGSS fashion set up this bike will be an all weather hard training bike with the occasional TT route thrown in for good measure, last week I stumbled across the Andover Wheelers training patch and found several of their 10, 20 miles "flatish" TT courses, it would be rude not to give them a go.

itboffin

gtvlusso wrote:

This kinda thing right?

http://www.boardmanbikes.com/road/road_comp_sc.html

No not really, i'm kinda looking for a single speed TT bike that I can use all the time all weather but not steel unless someone has come up with an aero lightweight steel frame.

The Dolan FXE is good the geometry is perfect for me but not aero. I think the ribble & dolan frames might be made by the same company.

Plus that Ribble TT frame is sub £100

gtvlusso

itboffin wrote:

gtvlusso wrote:

Track frame - 120mm space - 42mm driveline - track hub with BMX freewheel
Road frame - 130mm space - 43.5 + driveline (depending on double or triple chainset) and a hub/ss converter pack.....

Yep steel is very flexi or at least my 531 is, the chainline issue is why I'm not looking at a track frame, it has to fit 130mm and I might even go for the velosolo cog kit on a dished road wheel rather than the heavy noisy BMX freewheel.

I have no need for the FGSS fashion set up this bike will be an all weather hard training bike with the occasional TT route thrown in for good measure, last week I stumbled across the Andover Wheelers training patch and found several of their 10, 20 miles "flatish" TT courses, it would be rude not to give them a go.

Bonkers! I need to do a "10" fixed - see how I get on - maybe a trip to Andover for a flat run at it! Saying that, I do an undulating/hilly 10 most days.....

OKay for 130mm is gonna give you a chainline of about 45mm I think - Probably a 107mm spindle BB (assuming you use Sq taper!) - need to do the maths really! Whichever way - Sheldon will know.....Also gives you good wheel choice and reliability with a cog kit.

I am quite envious - I did plan a carbon aero fixie - absolute minimu weight job, but my bonus would not cover it.....boo.

wgwarburton

gtvlusso wrote:

Fixie chain tension......!!!!!
What do you go for?

b

Should be as tight as you can get it without binding. Spin the wheel with the chain loose and see how long it takes to stop- should be several turns. Then tighten it up to get the minimum play/slop/backlash that you can without reducing this time significantly.

If your chainring is slightly out, it can be worth easing the chainring bolts just enough to let you tap the chainring as close to centred as you can get it, then doing them up tight. This can be more effective that you would expect!

Cheers,
W.

rustncogs

Hiya,

I'm just hoping for a quick bit of advice, maybe someone can tell me if I'm getting a bit ahead of myself with how easy I think this will be.

I'm currently commuting on my rigid MTB with skinny 1.1 slicks and a 9-speed Deore LX setup. It's really hard to restrain myself from buying a second bike, so to distract myself I was looking at giving SS a go, so here's what I think I need to do so far:

- Spend about £20-£40 on a DMR conversion kit or similar (i.e. sprocket, spacers and tensioner)
- Take off rear mech, front mech, cables & shifter pods and cassette. Take off middle and granny chainring. Chuck all these in cupboard.
- Keep 48t chainring on.
- Fit sprocket and spacers.
- Put 9-speed chain back on.
- Fiddle with spacers until chain-line is dead straight.
- Set chain tensioner.
- Ride.

I know the existing chainring won't be ideal, but will it work? I don't want to wreck it, but I don't want to fork out for a whole new crank and chainwheel set.
I thought maybe this setup would work ok with a BB mounted chain tensioner because it would wrap the chain around the chainwheel a bit more?

Thanks!

A