Powerlinks don't go together or come apart when squeezed

beancounter · February 2015

beancounter wrote:

some old tripe

Now sorted. Hold the brakes on and stamp on a pedal - link snaps shut

bc

chris_bass · February 2015

am7 wrote:

I admit not reading the thread but just wanted to say the kmc or sram powerlinks are completely useless, I believe some are even not reusable and all of them require tools to be removed defeating the purpose. However there is one manufacturer that sells perfectly working powerlinks. They are by connex and take a second or two to remove and put on with no tools required and no hand/finger strength. You just align the powerlink vertically and they drop into position. I discovered them by mistake when they came with my first connex chain (I got fed up by shimano pins and kmc powerlink connectors). I have since then bought additional connectors and use them on shimano chains on my other bikes. Showing how quick it is to remove the chain to unsuspecting cyclists never gets old as well I do not have near enough miles on the connectors to comment on their long term reliability but so far so good. You need to put them on right way up but apart from that little snug I see no disadvantages to them and cannot understand why is not everybody using them.

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dabber · February 2015

am7 wrote:

I admit not reading the thread but just wanted to say the kmc or sram powerlinks are completely useless, I believe some are even not reusable and all of them require tools to be removed defeating the purpose. However there is one manufacturer that sells perfectly working powerlinks. They are by connex and take a second or two to remove and put on with no tools required and no hand/finger strength. You just align the powerlink vertically and they drop into position. I discovered them by mistake when they came with my first connex chain (I got fed up by shimano pins and kmc powerlink connectors). I have since then bought additional connectors and use them on shimano chains on my other bikes. Showing how quick it is to remove the chain to unsuspecting cyclists never gets old as well I do not have near enough miles on the connectors to comment on their long term reliability but so far so good. You need to put them on right way up but apart from that little snug I see no disadvantages to them and cannot understand why is not everybody using them.

But there doesn't seem to be an 11 speed version available. I wrote to Wipperman a few days ago asking if they did and 11 speed version and where I could get them. So far no reply from them.

Rodrego Hernandez · February 2015

The clue is in the name. Quick link. Not quick undo.

As long as it is the right link for the chain, it'll join fine and if designed to, will undo fine also.

Manc33 · February 2015

Guys, the bike I had that had the worn link was from a stock Rockrider 5.2. There was no "dodgy chainline" about it. It was an entirely different bike and wasn't altered (apart from me putting City Jet tyres on it). I joined BikeRadar around the time I got that bike, May 2010.

It seems to be a KMC link won't fit an SRAM chain, but the one I tried (KMC link > KMC chain) slid straight on and does slide straight off too, 2015.

What if the metal is meant to fuse like that so it makes the link permanent?

chris_bass · February 2015

Manc33 wrote:

Guys, the bike I had that had the worn link was from a stock Rockrider 5.2. There was no "dodgy chainline" about it. It was an entirely different bike and wasn't altered (apart from me putting City Jet tyres on it). I joined BikeRadar around the time I got that bike, May 2010.

It seems to be a KMC link won't fit an SRAM chain, but the one I tried (KMC link > KMC chain) slid straight on and does slide straight off too, 2015.

What if the metal is meant to fuse like that so it makes the link permanent?

i still don't really know what you mean by fused?

does the link still move freely like a normal chain link, does it bend and go round the cassette, rear mech and chainrings ok?

is it just a case of being old and rusting slightly?

ai_1 · February 2015

Rodrego Hernandez wrote:

http://sheldonbrown.com/chainclean.html

Thanks for this link. Very useful and informative page.
I'll start using this method after each ride.

cougie · February 2015

Manc33 wrote:

What if the metal is meant to fuse like that so it makes the link permanent?

Where is the metal coming from ? Its not appearing out of thin air ?

And why is it just your link that has this problem ?

slowbike · February 2015

am7 wrote:

I admit not reading the thread but just wanted to say the kmc or sram powerlinks are completely useless, I believe some are even not reusable and all of them require tools to be removed defeating the purpose. However there is one manufacturer that sells perfectly working powerlinks.<advert> here follows a company advert</advert>.

Funny that the links I use have worked perfectly well. I can fit them without tools and just use pliers and a hammer to get them off - but I'm not interested in getting them off on the road - I carry a spare quick link incase I need to fix the chain - which I know I can do quickly and without a load of parts that are going to fall off and scatter in the road debris never to be seen again.

Poor Manc33 ... I wonder if he knows how to boil water in a kettle?

Manc33 · February 2015

The metal comes from the outer plate and "thinned out" over the hole.

Chris Bass wrote:

i still don't really know what you mean by fused?

does the link still move freely like a normal chain link, does it bend and go round the cassette, rear mech and chainrings ok?

is it just a case of being old and rusting slightly?

It still moved freely it just became immovable as far as removing it.

The metal had worn across pretty much all the way to the pin, closing the exit hole up and making it look like a normal link, albeit silver and with like a "filed" effect on the outer plate.

No it wasn't old, I bought the bike (Rockrider 6.2 sorry not 5.2) in about July 2010 and it took less than 1,000 miles to end up like that.

Maybe one important thing is I rode only on canal paths in the beginning and all the grit probably increased that wear to the Powerlink/Missing Link three times compared to being on the road.

These days I am hosing my bike down (low pressure) after coming back from rainy rides. Thats the best time to get all that crap off, before it dries. It also saves spraying Muc-Off and god knows what on the bike.

ai_1 · February 2015

cougie wrote:

Manc33 wrote:

What if the metal is meant to fuse like that so it makes the link permanent?

Where is the metal coming from ? Its not appearing out of thin air ?

And why is it just your link that has this problem ?

It's probably a conspiracy. They only send the fusing type to certain people.

BTW, it's important not to lubricate your chain as this will prevent the metal from fusing properly. Please note the following to achieve proper link fusion:
- Mating link surfaces must be clean
- Your must generate sufficient heat by rubbing the chain on the front derailleur to achieve fusion.

Tip: Correct use of the trim on your FD can undermine fusion. Ideally you should cross chain aggressively with an un-lubricated chain and ignore your trim function. The later is only good sense since a guy here told me the trim function does nothing anyway.....oh hang on. Mystery solved!

chris_bass · February 2015

Manc33 wrote:

The metal comes from the outer plate and "thinned out" over the hole.

Chris Bass wrote:

i still don't really know what you mean by fused?

does the link still move freely like a normal chain link, does it bend and go round the cassette, rear mech and chainrings ok?

is it just a case of being old and rusting slightly?

It still moved freely it just became immovable as far as removing it.

The metal had worn across pretty much all the way to the pin, closing the exit hole up and making it look like a normal link, albeit silver and with like a "filed" effect on the outer plate.

No it wasn't old, I bought the bike (Rockrider 6.2 sorry not 5.2) in about July 2010 and it took less than 1,000 miles to end up like that.

Maybe one important thing is I rode only on canal paths in the beginning and all the grit probably increased that wear to the Powerlink/Missing Link three times compared to being on the road.

These days I am hosing my bike down (low pressure) after coming back from rainy rides. Thats the best time to get all that crap off, before it dries. It also saves spraying Muc-Off and god knows what on the bike.

after hosing it down, do you dry it off and spray some kind of water disperser (wd40, gt85 or the like) on it?

am7 · February 2015

Dabber wrote:

But there doesn't seem to be an 11 speed version available. I wrote to Wipperman a few days ago asking if they did and 11 speed version and where I could get them. So far no reply from them.

http://www.connexchain.com/en/product/connex-link.html
On the website is says "Compatible with all 11-, 10-, 9- and 8-speed chains" so there should be one for 11sp right? My bikes are 10sp and that's what it says on the connector so can't help you there.
The online shop I bought mine only had a 10sp one and a quick google search confirms the same, which means one or two things.
There is a 11sp connector which is rare as hens teeth.
There is no specific 11sp connector and connex are trying to pass the 10sp as 11sp "compatible" which would not work well in my opinion (5.5mm vs. 5.9mm width).
Let us know what they say if they ever reply.

darkhairedlord · February 2015

Lubrication is a myth fomented by the oil companies.

rolf_f · February 2015

am7 wrote:

There is no specific 11sp connector and connex are trying to pass the 10sp as 11sp "compatible" which would not work well in my opinion (5.5mm vs. 5.9mm width).

I think you are right there. FWIW, I use Connex chains on my Ribble. For some reason, it has never quite got on with Campag chains (eg the chain drops onto the edge of the inner ring rather than over it) - Connex 10 speed chains are wider than Campag ones and that tends to eliminate any problems I have. So if the chains are already wide for 10 speed then I can't see how the quick links would work for 11 speed.

MisterMuncher · February 2015

I must be doing it wrong. My quicklinks across 8,9,10 and 11 speed have always worked just fine. My 2 BB30s don't creak at all and my Superstara wheels arrived true and v well tensioned.

I must be one of those cycling amateurs.

MisterMuncher · February 2015

Of course, there's a very handy little trick with a cable tie that makes removing quicklinks of any kind even easier, and I usually have one in my little puncture/toolkit that I take with me.

cougie · February 2015

MisterMuncher wrote:

Of course, there's a very handy little trick with a cable tie that makes removing quicklinks of any kind even easier, and I usually have one in my little puncture/toolkit that I take with me.

Care to elaborate ?

MisterMuncher · February 2015

Happy to.

Get a nice narrow zip tie that'll slip through the links in your chain. Use a Stanley knife to trim off the little tab that causes it to lock, so you can pull it open after you close it up. Just loop it round the quick link, squeeze the link sides with one hand and pull the tie tight with the other. It'll pop right open.

To close easily, assemble the link in the chain, position i just behind the fd, chain on the big ring, apply full back brake and give the pedal a good shove, it'll lock the link closed.

dnwhite88 · February 2015

That involves a stanley knife AND a cable tie-far too complicated!

6wheels · February 2015

MisterMuncher- Nice tip, much better than hitting the chain with a stone.

slowbike · February 2015

MisterMuncher wrote:

Happy to.

Get a nice narrow zip tie that'll slip through the links in your chain. Use a Stanley knife to trim off the little tab that causes it to lock, so you can pull it open after you close it up. Just loop it round the quick link, squeeze the link sides with one hand and pull the tie tight with the other. It'll pop right open.

Excellent tip - thanks ...

I'll give that one a try ...

MisterMuncher · February 2015

dnwhite88 wrote:

That involves a stanley knife AND a cable tie-far too complicated!

You can do it with your teeth or improvise with a cigarette lighter. If you don't mind junking the cable tie each time, you don't even have to doctor it.

A bit of wire or a twist tie looped round the link and twisted till it tightens will do the same job. If you already have a twist tie on your bag of Jelly Babies/Soreen/Veda, you're elected.

cougie · February 2015

Nice tip - thanks !

You dont need the knife though - use the zip tie backwards and it won't lock in.

Must try your technique at home to see !

Manc33 · February 2015

Simply wrap whatever clothing you're wearing around your fingers to get a harder grip on the chain plates, voila, no tools.

You'll be riding around with a black oil stain on your clothes but you didn't use any tools.

That "Missing Link" aka the KMC variant slips on and off really easily.

Do SRAM ones on SRAM chains go on and off so easily? I couldn't get the KMC link to go on my SRAM chain (everything is 8-speed).

Ouija · February 2015

I've used SRAM ones on KMC chains just because i find them easier than the KMC ones, which always seem a tighter fit and harder to get off because of it.

MisterMuncher · February 2015

Manc33 wrote:

Simply wrap whatever clothing you're wearing around your fingers to get a harder grip on the chain plates, voila, no tools. You'll be riding around with a black oil stain on your clothes but you didn't use any tools.

Unless you're a few hundred miles deep into some sort of epic, why is there black oil on your chain? Keeping a chain clean and lightly lubed will solve most chain problems before they arise.

crikey · February 2015

Simply wrap whatever clothing you're wearing around your fingers to get a harder grip on the chain plates, voila, no tools. You'll be riding around with a black oil stain on your clothes but you didn't use any tools.

That "Missing Link" aka the KMC variant slips on and off really easily.

Hold on, is this Mr. 'Quick links are the Devils smegma' telling us that it's all easy now?

Bell end.

chris_bass · February 2015

crikey wrote:

Simply wrap whatever clothing you're wearing around your fingers to get a harder grip on the chain plates, voila, no tools. You'll be riding around with a black oil stain on your clothes but you didn't use any tools.

That "Missing Link" aka the KMC variant slips on and off really easily.

Hold on, is this Mr. 'Quick links are the Devils smegma' telling us that it's all easy now?

Bell end.

That's what I was thinking

Manc33 · February 2015

crikey wrote:

Hold on, is this Mr. 'Quick links are the Devils smegma' telling us that it's all easy now?

Bell end.

There's this thing we use that passes by where stuff works when it is new but wears out after a while - it's called "time".

Prick.

Maybe the link I am praising now isn't the same link I was complaining about before that?

IMAGINE IT.

Powerlinks don't go together or come apart when squeezed

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