Show us your Supersix Evo's

germcevoy

Have renamed topic so that it can now be used for general Supersix Evo chat.

Calpol

Germcevoy wrote:

Have renamed topic so that it can now be used for general Supersix Evo chat.

Good call that!!
It saves me irritating everyone by starting another "What wheels should I buy?" thread.

My build is scheduled for end March I think. I have a fair bit of it gathered. Frame/fork obviously and shiny new Chorus groupset to go on it. Will be getting a praxis BB adaptor for ultratorque. Bars still debating with my self - maybe another set of Deda Zero 100, Ritchey WCS Evo Curve or these from China! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/321680257756?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&var=510583897888&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT.

My big dilemma is wheels. I sort of feel that its a build that deserves a deeper rim. I have some quite nice 32mm alloy clinchers on my other bike but they have red hubs so aesthetically not ideal so......the budget is about £700

Fulcrum Quattro Carbon 40mm clincher - 3diamant brake track, mid weight at c1530g - c£740
Swiss Side Hadron 485 - carbon faring c£750
Light Bicycle or Farsport 45mm clinchers c£450 - could get a Bepro Power meter pedal with the balance
Carbon 38/50 combo from Cycle Clinic or DCR Wheels

I am pretty much wed to wider rims. I really like the feel of 23mm vs 19mm so Mavics are out.
Most of my riding is around the undulating terrain of Beds, Herts and Bucks so nothing too drastic in terms of climbing. I will however be doing the Maratona but may well use my Wilier for that.
So any input guys??

reme-luke

I'm just in the process of building my hi mod bargain and wheel wise I've currently got a set of h plus son on dura ace 9000 hubs sat waiting to go on, but feel such a lightweight bike needs some bling lightweight wheels.

Maybe have a look at the ryde sprint pulse on extralite hubs that cycle clinic do. They are around your £700 budget I'm very tempted myself.

MisterMuncher

First proper couple of rides on mine now that it's "finished". Covered a couple of hundred miles over the last week, in changeable enough conditions, mostly flat and rolling, but chucked in a few decent climbs while I was at it.

Observations:
Relative to the CAAD10: Certainly no slower, handling is as sharp but a bit less twitchy. It turns and steers equally well, but holds it line with less corrective input. Considerable improvement in comfort at the rear (w/ same post, saddle, wheels &c.), front end not hugely different. A bit less inclined to lift the front wheel on climbs so far.

Clearance between the Hollowgram arm and the 6800 front derailleur even tighter than the CAAD. There's literally 1.5mm on a 50/34, slightly more with a 52/36, when the FD is set up as close to the frame as possible without rubbing in big/small.

Headset requires a bit more preload/tension than one might intuit. This seems to be a Cannondale thing, though.

PS. Germcevoy. I found an envelope today. Honestly thought I'd posted it to you weeks ago. Corrective action has been taken.

bendertherobot

I'm thinking of using mine tomorrow given that:

a) it's dry;

b) I reckon I can leave early and go the long way home;

c) my commuting bike front hydro appears to be stuck on; (that was an interesting 5 miles);

d) I'm waiting on rim tape to finish the XLS

bristolpete

bendertherobot wrote:

I'm thinking of using mine tomorrow given that:

a) it's dry;

b) I reckon I can leave early and go the long way home;

c) my commuting bike front hydro appears to be stuck on; (that was an interesting 5 miles);

d) I'm waiting on rim tape to finish the XLS

Ride de bike, wash de bike....

bendertherobot

bristolpete wrote:

bendertherobot wrote:

I'm thinking of using mine tomorrow given that:

a) it's dry;

b) I reckon I can leave early and go the long way home;

c) my commuting bike front hydro appears to be stuck on; (that was an interesting 5 miles);

d) I'm waiting on rim tape to finish the XLS

Ride de bike, wash de bike....

Bugger that, that's what N+1 is for. You should see the inside of my mudguards on my Bivio. I'm surprised the wheels still turn (well the front doesn't, but that was c) above)

galatzo

Headset requires a bit more preload/tension than one might intuit. This seems to be a Cannondale thing, though

I have a 2015 Evo Force and my headset seems to come loose easily too.
I swapped the stock expander for the lighter one Cannondale do and it seemed OK at first but I find myself applying a bit more tension on it than I think I should.
Interested to hear any other users experiences with the headsets and expanders coming loose.

germcevoy

I'm loving the look of all these Hi-Mods but stll not regretting my 'standard' Evo at a grand all in. Had a good spin on Saturday in foul weather and bloody loved it. Not afraid to get it much as the wheels wll be going and external cabling is nice and easy for servicing.

It picks up speed so quickly and just holds it there. Can't wait until the summer when I'll have the legs to put it through it's paces. Still happy with the 52 but I haven't put any monster hours in yet. Nothing with the fit to suggest I'll struggle though.

Still shopping for finishing kit, specifically stem and seat post.

germcevoy

MisterMuncher wrote:

PS. Germcevoy. I found an envelope today. Honestly thought I'd posted it to you weeks ago. Corrective action has been taken.

No worries at all sir.

bristolpete

Just in from a quick, sharp 20 miler here in Devon. These things climb so well and have the snap which as a non climber I need. 1400 feet of climbing in 20 miles from the front door. Hilly as f**k :-) and also loving the Conti 4000 GPII's...very fast and suspiciously supple at a decent pressure on my Ksyrium elites. Very pleased.

gingermagician

Galatzo wrote:

Headset requires a bit more preload/tension than one might intuit. This seems to be a Cannondale thing, though

I have a 2015 Evo Force and my headset seems to come loose easily too.
I swapped the stock expander for the lighter one Cannondale do and it seemed OK at first but I find myself applying a bit more tension on it than I think I should.
Interested to hear any other users experiences with the headsets and expanders coming loose.

Ditched the Cannondale one on my CAAD10 after damaging the alu top cap bit (they seem very poorly made, very easy to bend/warp). Replaced it with the Enve one, which seemed much more secure in the steerer and easier to get the bearings correctly loaded.

bendertherobot

This headset thing. So, I did this,

Removed top cap using 6mm allen key.

Undid stem bolts.

Moved two spacers to above the stem.

Put top cap back on and did it up so as to remove play.

Did stem bolts back up again.

That's right, isn't it? Nothing more complicated?

letap73

bendertherobot wrote:

This headset thing. So, I did this,

Removed top cap using 6mm allen key.

Undid stem bolts.

Moved two spacers to above the stem.

Put top cap back on and did it up so as to remove play.

Did stem bolts back up again.

That's right, isn't it? Nothing more complicated?

Sounds right, however there is apparently an issue with putting spacers above the stem - I did find this info in a Cannondale manual - but can't locate it now!? I refered to it in this thread:
viewtopic.php?t=12919568

Also here:
viewtopic.php?t=12915456

bendertherobot

Ta. It's an odd one. In my head there's no difference. The top cap now sits on two tiny spacers. Before it sat on the stem.

Indeed, I reckon I still need to drop it by another two. At some point I'll get it cut, but I need to get the height right.

http://swimtorun.com/2013/08/the-infamo ... rdeal.html

It was that that worried me. My view is that the only reason he talks about putting the compression doobry back in is that he removed it. So just checking that I was ok to leave everything as it was and move stuff down. I'm way off having too much above the stem. Indeed, having it half way down what Cannondale provide seems fairly safe to me!

bendertherobot

http://www.swiftcycles.co.uk/images/201 ... eight=1200

that's how they come, all I've done is move the stem 2 spacers down.

letap73

Bender I think you should be alright - its all about the stem not compressing the carbon steerer tube.
Post six on this thread provides a good explanation:
http://forums.roadbikereview.com/cannon ... 83249.html

bendertherobot

I think that makes sense, though:

"If you want to move the stem until you find the sweet spot, you can actually leave the expender in and just undo the top cap, move the spacers and stem then re-tighten the top cap and the stem, as long as the expender is still properly located relative to the stem."

One reading of that is don't worry about it. Use the top cap for compression. Do what you want.

But I'm not sure what's meant by "properly located relative to the stem."

bendertherobot

that said

http://road.cc/content/review/113257-ca ... -road-bike

Seems to me that if I had that set up there, that the bung has to be relative to the top cap, not the stem. If you follow! If you moved the bung relative to the stem there the top cap would never reach it!

MisterMuncher

My tuppence worth.

It depends on which bung you're using. The original bung (The one with a flat top and FSA logo) is a bit longer than the lighter, new one. I wouldn't worry too much about a few spacers above the stem with the old one, but I'd try and trim pretty close with the new one.

That being said, I tensioned/pre-loaded with the old style cap, nipped up the stem bolts, then replaced it with the new one. Once preload is set, the expander is only reinforcing the clamping area (and the top cap is just keeping dirt/water out). I felt more comfortable torquing up the old cap, it's more heavily built, but have no worries the new one will do the job in situ

bendertherobot

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=fsa+s ... mZyMUqM%3A

Think it's that one

letap73

This is the one:
If the image does not work: http://i.imgur.com/EI4M18k.jpg

bendertherobot

It is. But that suggests that, unless you cut the steerer, you can't move stuff around. Whereas, quite clearly, Cannondale supplied Road.cc with one where it had all been moved around!

MisterMuncher

Pretty much, this is CMA for steerers breaking because they've had stems mounted idiotically. The key point is that you've got expander or the long top cap inside the steerer tube at the point the stem bolts clamp down, you should be golden. There's a good 10mm "slack" in the KP017 for spacers above the stem, less so in the KP017L.

That road.cc setup wouldn't be ideal, long-term. The lower stem bolt is clamping onto unsupported, or mostly unsupported steerer. There's certainly the potential for cracks with a big hit or prolonged rough treatment. I wouldn't get too stressed about just swapping about until you're content with the fit, but for long term use, no more than 10mm/5mm above stem.

Calpol

Calpol wrote:

My big dilemma is wheels. I sort of feel that its a build that deserves a deeper rim. I have some quite nice 32mm alloy clinchers on my other bike but they have red hubs so aesthetically not ideal so......the budget is about £700

Fulcrum Quattro Carbon 40mm clincher - 3diamant brake track, mid weight at c1530g - c£740
Swiss Side Hadron 485 - carbon faring c£750
Light Bicycle or Farsport 45mm clinchers c£450 - could get a Bepro Power meter pedal with the balance
Carbon 38/50 combo from Cycle Clinic or DCR Wheels

I am pretty much wed to wider rims. I really like the feel of 23mm vs 19mm so Mavics are out.
Most of my riding is around the undulating terrain of Beds, Herts and Bucks so nothing too drastic in terms of climbing. I will however be doing the Maratona but may well use my Wilier for that.
So any input guys??

C'mon dudes this is the last piece of my build. I need a push !

bendertherobot

http://www.huntbikewheels.com/collectio ... 26wide-899

Look ok. Bit more money

MrT

Sorry.....bit late to this but sorely tempted by the ES hiMod.....193 cm and the geometry on the 60 including the grail of stack and reach seem consistent with current ride. Would like to set up in Ultegra so was there an answer to whether a BB adapter kit nulls the warranty. Also.....what are Pauls like to deal with?
Cheers

germcevoy

MrT wrote:

Sorry.....bit late to this but sorely tempted by the ES hiMod.....193 cm and the geometry on the 60 including the grail of stack and reach seem consistent with current ride. Would like to set up in Ultegra so was there an answer to whether a BB adapter kit nulls the warranty. Also.....what are Pauls like to deal with?
Cheers

Can't help with warranty but ordered mine via Pauls. I ordered a bike and itr arrived. Couldn't complain. They never responded to an issue I had with the cassette though. I can't guarantee that I didn't send the email to an unmanned email box though.

MisterMuncher

From memory, the push fit sleeve (FSA/Cannondale adapter) doesn't affect warranty by being installed. If it is subsequently removed, the warranty is voided on a carbon bike. At least, that was the case in 2011. Things may have moved on since.

Other adapters aren't specified, you'd probably need to enquire directly.

MrT

Well that's it then, reserved my frame....going to have a look on Saturday...have been told that fitting an adapter doesn't effect warranty. Being new to plastic bikes (Ti or steel) is there anything specific I need to look for when checking frame...BB is PF 30