Disc brakes in the Pro ranks.
Comments
-
I actually think pad replacement on discs is usually easier than rim blocks as you don't really need to line them up or anything, they just slot in. Obviously, pros aren't changing either type so it's kinda moot for pro riders.dish_dash said:
Replacing the pads is simple, no more challenging/time consuming than rim blocks. The noise has been more complicated and needed various tweeks, and is still noisy in the wet. Though my previous rim brakes had a tendency to squeel as well...TheBigBean said:
I'm not sure that has ever stopped you before!rick_chasey said:
I would mock but you are so much faster and ride so much more/further, I'll wind my neck in...dish_dash said:
Each to their own eh?mididoctors said:dish_dash said:I ride discs. They aren't perfect, but I wouldn't go back to rim brakes. In much the same way that I wouldn't go back to mechanical gears.
Nice bit of trigger baiting 🤔🤭 electric gears should be banned pure and simple they are electronic physical assistance . More over have yet to go on a sizable group ride without someone having a electronic gear malfunction . That's not hyperbole .
I've ridden ~8,000km this year, all on discs. Only issue has been a set of worn pads and a bit of noise that's needed adjusting.
Rode 6,000km of this year's kms on electronic gears, only issue has been a low battery warning, which was easily sorted by switching the front and back derailleur batteries and got home with no impact upon shifting.
All of the above kms on tubeless tyres. Had to stop and put in a tube once, and another ride got shortened because the tyre wasn't fully re-inflating. Otherwise non-stop riding.
My aim is to ride long and hard with as little stopping as possible. All three of the recent technological innovations have helped facilitate that and given me a better riding experience!
Still recon that in a race the marginal gain, if there even is one, for disc brakes are outweighed, pun intended, by the extra faff in changing wheels.
Only issue with the disc brakes was noise and a requirement to change the pads? How long did those fixes take? Rim brake adjustments can be done sufficiently quickly that I don't remember doing them. It's the one thing on a bike that actually works and I don't really mind. In contrast to, say, bottom brackets.
Guess the question is whether with tubeless you might need to stop less frequently to have a wheel replaced. Thus negating any delay in swapping a disc brake. Though has this really been an issue yet for any of the riders in a ride (e.g. DQS)?
Was curious to note in a life in the peloton interview that EF are running tubeless tires with a foam filling (but no sealant!) so that they can still be ridden even after a flat.0 -
Pros might not change things during a race, but I would presume they have to when they are at home.bobmcstuff said:
I actually think pad replacement on discs is usually easier than rim blocks as you don't really need to line them up or anything, they just slot in. Obviously, pros aren't changing either type so it's kinda moot for pro riders.dish_dash said:
Replacing the pads is simple, no more challenging/time consuming than rim blocks. The noise has been more complicated and needed various tweeks, and is still noisy in the wet. Though my previous rim brakes had a tendency to squeel as well...TheBigBean said:
I'm not sure that has ever stopped you before!rick_chasey said:
I would mock but you are so much faster and ride so much more/further, I'll wind my neck in...dish_dash said:
Each to their own eh?mididoctors said:dish_dash said:I ride discs. They aren't perfect, but I wouldn't go back to rim brakes. In much the same way that I wouldn't go back to mechanical gears.
Nice bit of trigger baiting 🤔🤭 electric gears should be banned pure and simple they are electronic physical assistance . More over have yet to go on a sizable group ride without someone having a electronic gear malfunction . That's not hyperbole .
I've ridden ~8,000km this year, all on discs. Only issue has been a set of worn pads and a bit of noise that's needed adjusting.
Rode 6,000km of this year's kms on electronic gears, only issue has been a low battery warning, which was easily sorted by switching the front and back derailleur batteries and got home with no impact upon shifting.
All of the above kms on tubeless tyres. Had to stop and put in a tube once, and another ride got shortened because the tyre wasn't fully re-inflating. Otherwise non-stop riding.
My aim is to ride long and hard with as little stopping as possible. All three of the recent technological innovations have helped facilitate that and given me a better riding experience!
Still recon that in a race the marginal gain, if there even is one, for disc brakes are outweighed, pun intended, by the extra faff in changing wheels.
Only issue with the disc brakes was noise and a requirement to change the pads? How long did those fixes take? Rim brake adjustments can be done sufficiently quickly that I don't remember doing them. It's the one thing on a bike that actually works and I don't really mind. In contrast to, say, bottom brackets.
Guess the question is whether with tubeless you might need to stop less frequently to have a wheel replaced. Thus negating any delay in swapping a disc brake. Though has this really been an issue yet for any of the riders in a ride (e.g. DQS)?
Was curious to note in a life in the peloton interview that EF are running tubeless tires with a foam filling (but no sealant!) so that they can still be ridden even after a flat.0 -
Yeah probably, but that's presumably not going to affect their bike choice in the Tour... I should have added "(in a race)" to my post, but you can't preempt every smartarse
0 -
No attempt at smartness. I assumed that pros would ride the same kit in races as at home in order to be familiar with it. Therefore they would have an interest how easy it is to maintain.bobmcstuff said:Yeah probably, but that's presumably not going to affect their bike choice in the Tour... I should have added "(in a race)" to my post, but you can't preempt every smartarse
That said, I have no idea if pros are expert mechanics having lived on bikes for years or whether they have 10 bikes at home delivered freshly from a service.0 -
I suspect they vary a lot from many who couldn't change an inner tube to some who could tell you how many thread turns per cm their derailleur hanger is .TheBigBean said:
No attempt at smartness. I assumed that pros would ride the same kit in races as at home in order to be familiar with it. Therefore they would have an interest how easy it is to maintain.bobmcstuff said:Yeah probably, but that's presumably not going to affect their bike choice in the Tour... I should have added "(in a race)" to my post, but you can't preempt every smartarse
That said, I have no idea if pros are expert mechanics having lived on bikes for years or whether they have 10 bikes at home delivered freshly from a service.
"If I was a 38 year old man, I definitely wouldn't be riding a bright yellow bike with Hello Kitty disc wheels, put it that way. What we're witnessing here is the world's most high profile mid-life crisis" Afx237vi Mon Jul 20, 2009 2:43 pm0 -
i run mechanical 11 speed,
I ride all year round on my 11 speed bike, it shifts perfectly, it has rim brakes, they work really well dry or wet up or down. Ive had the same groupset on for 5 years now and apart from cassette and chain changes Ive replaced the cables twice .Matti66 said:I agree with big bean on 11 speed it de - tunes easily as is finicky . But its an arms race for bike industry. I had & 10 speed tubeless winter wheelset i must have got lucky initially as i rode hutchinson fusion down to carcass on them . But all the other tyres where awful some blowing after 50 miles , so I'm on the fence now ! I would get Disc bike for four season riding tbh, I like the fairlight bikes .
That isnt Finicky in my opinion.
Tubeless on the other hand, great concept poor execution and loads of marketing bollocks.
depending where you ride, the experience can be very different. Anyone who says that a tyre plug is all you kneed has limited experience. The big difference is that the simple patch repair of a normal tyre is more troublesome and most of the people riding tubeless are those with the least experience. on group rides it's torturous.
First sign of trouble is seeing a bike up ended and rested on hoods and saddle.
i look pityingly on at this point and negate to comment about the chain at the wrong end of the cassette because these people are young and sensitive and know everything there is to be known anyway. Ive started implementing a 5 minute rule for simple punctures. After that time i just ride on to stop boredom or cold or simple old age from killing me.
0 -
Fair enough on the 11speed , it just seems sort of overkill , but i use the Full range of my cassette 12-28 & I live in lowland england! /I used to ride all year round too but not able to atm . /david37 said:i run mechanical 11 speed,
I ride all year round on my 11 speed bike, it shifts perfectly, it has rim brakes, they work really well dry or wet up or down. Ive had the same groupset on for 5 years now and apart from cassette and chain changes Ive replaced the cables twice .Matti66 said:I agree with big bean on 11 speed it de - tunes easily as is finicky . But its an arms race for bike industry. I had & 10 speed tubeless winter wheelset i must have got lucky initially as i rode hutchinson fusion down to carcass on them . But all the other tyres where awful some blowing after 50 miles , so I'm on the fence now ! I would get Disc bike for four season riding tbh, I like the fairlight bikes .
That isnt Finicky in my opinion.
Tubeless on the other hand, great concept poor execution and loads of marketing bollocks.
depending where you ride, the experience can be very different. Anyone who says that a tyre plug is all you kneed has limited experience. The big difference is that the simple patch repair of a normal tyre is more troublesome and most of the people riding tubeless are those with the least experience. on group rides it's torturous.
First sign of trouble is seeing a bike up ended and rested on hoods and saddle.
i look pityingly on at this point and negate to comment about the chain at the wrong end of the cassette because these people are young and sensitive and know everything there is to be known anyway. Ive started implementing a 5 minute rule for simple punctures. After that time i just ride on to stop boredom or cold or simple old age from killing me.
The not waiting ( very long at least ) for flats is typical of experienced club riders tbh lol. I used to carry two inner tubes with me - Our roads are bad lots pinch flats from potholes and thorns ect so with this in mind I haven’t given up on tubeless just yet & i suppose as a plus it rolls better .
Re . discs well - you pays your money, But one can see the benefits to them.
0 -
Have to say my Ultegra 6800 just...doesn't wear out. While I'm broken I've swapped my compact 105 equivalent in and that also...just works. Ive never had a road or MTB group that was so maintenance free.
Tubeless I've had mixed success with. I was an early adopter and ran Schwalbe Pro 1 with ultegra wheels and I prefer it to my Pirelli with tubes and will go back, but I've had it fail on me several times with no option to put a tube on. That in itself isn't so easy tho as you have to find all the bits that caused a puncture you didn't see it else they puncture the tube. Roadside repair of such things appears to have come on leaps and bounds since then tho.
The reason I switched back is when I was away, the general low level leak fro. Tubeless made the tyres too soft between rides. Usually 3 or 4 strokes with a track pump is no issue but when You've only got a diddy little pump it's a PITA!! With tubes they'd stay up enough over a week that I could get to the club or cycling cafe to borrow one.
A ghetto attempt on some cheap superstar wheels was fun and almost worked fine, but any minor issues would kill it... Hutchinson tyres bear part of the blame for that though.We're in danger of confusing passion with incompetence
- @ddraver0 -
Not if you are left handed. 😉FreddieVonRost said:
Continental, rear = right and front = left is the only sensible brake setup.Lanterne_Rogue said:Run discs on my commuter / gravel bike. Much harder to lock up by accident and much more reliable in the wet. On rims I've had my life - and the odd HGV - flash in front of my eyes. I definitely wouldn't swap back, though would I shell out (say) £200 more to get discs if I were buying a new road bike for fair weather riding? Maybe not.
JA's accident is unlikely to be the direct result of discs unless you believe the mutually contradictory positions that disc brakes are simultaneously no better at providing braking force and that they also provide such an excess of braking force that locking up is inevitable. "Rim brakes can't provide maximum force in the wet" is not the sales pitch some people think it is.
In the peloton I'd assume the only really convincing argument is that it limits options for taking a wheel from neutral service, which of course is also why everyone runs the same cassettes...
Oh.The above may be fact, or fiction, I may be serious, I may be jesting.
I am not sure. You have no chance.Veronese68 wrote:PB is the most sensible person on here.0 -
Tubeless on the other hand, great concept poor execution and loads of marketing bollocks.
depending where you ride, the experience can be very different. Anyone who says that a tyre plug is all you kneed has limited experience. The big difference is that the simple patch repair of a normal tyre is more troublesome and most of the people riding tubeless are those with the least experience. on group rides it's torturous.
What a load of rubbish!0 -
Don't know about you but I would rather have better control and dexterity with my front brake than my rear, I'm right handed and the continental setup makes no sense to me, I don't understand why it would be more sensible (unless you want to be cool and euro or something).pblakeney said:
Not if you are left handed. 😉FreddieVonRost said:
Continental, rear = right and front = left is the only sensible brake setup.Lanterne_Rogue said:Run discs on my commuter / gravel bike. Much harder to lock up by accident and much more reliable in the wet. On rims I've had my life - and the odd HGV - flash in front of my eyes. I definitely wouldn't swap back, though would I shell out (say) £200 more to get discs if I were buying a new road bike for fair weather riding? Maybe not.
JA's accident is unlikely to be the direct result of discs unless you believe the mutually contradictory positions that disc brakes are simultaneously no better at providing braking force and that they also provide such an excess of braking force that locking up is inevitable. "Rim brakes can't provide maximum force in the wet" is not the sales pitch some people think it is.
In the peloton I'd assume the only really convincing argument is that it limits options for taking a wheel from neutral service, which of course is also why everyone runs the same cassettes...
Oh.
Also the fact I have grown up riding bikes front brake = right so there's a lot of trained in response there.1 -
Why is this thread still going? Maybe my truck should have drum brakes and my bikes wooden blocks? Progress - pah.0
-
I have my rear brakes (LH) set up fairly loose compared to the front (RH) at 1mm.bobmcstuff said:
Don't know about you but I would rather have better control and dexterity with my front brake than my rear, I'm right handed and the continental setup makes no sense to me, I don't understand why it would be more sensible (unless you want to be cool and euro or something).pblakeney said:
Not if you are left handed. 😉FreddieVonRost said:
Continental, rear = right and front = left is the only sensible brake setup.Lanterne_Rogue said:Run discs on my commuter / gravel bike. Much harder to lock up by accident and much more reliable in the wet. On rims I've had my life - and the odd HGV - flash in front of my eyes. I definitely wouldn't swap back, though would I shell out (say) £200 more to get discs if I were buying a new road bike for fair weather riding? Maybe not.
JA's accident is unlikely to be the direct result of discs unless you believe the mutually contradictory positions that disc brakes are simultaneously no better at providing braking force and that they also provide such an excess of braking force that locking up is inevitable. "Rim brakes can't provide maximum force in the wet" is not the sales pitch some people think it is.
In the peloton I'd assume the only really convincing argument is that it limits options for taking a wheel from neutral service, which of course is also why everyone runs the same cassettes...
Oh.
Also the fact I have grown up riding bikes front brake = right so there's a lot of trained in response there.
Even then it is always the rears that lock up in an emergency as I overpull the left lever. (Weight shift plays a part too).
I have considered swapping but I am equally concerned by learned behaviour.The above may be fact, or fiction, I may be serious, I may be jesting.
I am not sure. You have no chance.Veronese68 wrote:PB is the most sensible person on here.0 -
I've never had that issue...
I've only had issues on rented bikes in Europe where the brakes are the wrong way round and I feel like I can't descend properly because I have to be remembering which brake is which. It's like driving a manual car on the wrong side, keep reaching into the door to change gears...
Bit like when I started riding clipless actually, it takes a while to become second nature.0
