Handbuilt wheels... the big thread
Comments
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drlodge wrote:Thanks Ugo. It doesn't look like the symmetric RR411 (front) is available in 32T, only the asymmetric.
I was thinking about waiting for the New Open Pro...might ping Malcom later in the year unless you're back into the wheel building :roll:
How annoying... the world has gone asymmetric crazy... I'd wait for the new UST Open PRO then... I think they will be worth the wait... from the images they look really really sweet
Yeah, I can build you some wheels, but you'll have to visit the Midlands... maybe we can organise a ride or something... I am now an expert tour guide of the Cotswolds and know all the best fish & chips places aroundleft the forum March 20230 -
timothy W
The BORG22 has a weight limit less than 120kg I would not advise any 28 spoke rear wheel for you. The Kinlin XR31T rim is available in 32H drilling asym I have a box full.
The Kinlin rim though I would say with washers and 32H drilling has a weight limit of 120kg. I would suggest you go with a different rim like the archetype. Kinlin rims dont seem to crack but a thicker spoke nipple bed is useful. You could also look at the DT Swiss TK540 but the velocity chukker is not a bad option, it is a good one really.
the DT Swiss RR511 has a weight limit of 120kg so will be no better than the kinlins. the whole point of asymettric rims ugo and others, is because of tubeless tyres. the tension drop is big and coupled with 11 speed hubs the NDS spokes need all the help they can get.
Drlodge why not the kinlin XR22T and RT for the rear?http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.0 -
thecycleclinic wrote:I hope that put some reasoning to my statement don't bother with that halo hub.
Sure thanks. I was actually perusing the hub list of some online retailer, and came across these hubs. Thought a bit unconventional, but it's nice to have someone offering unusual things.
18:9, nice, unusual count/pattern will draw a lot of attention. Hope you get the hubs and rims at competitive prices.
I would never ever experiment with these, not with my experience, N=0.
BTW all the components for my 1st wheelbuild arrived, so maybe during the weekend N=1 will happen: Record hubs with DT R460 rims and DT Comp spokes, 3x front and rear. Looking forward to having a lot of fun in the process!!!0 -
thecycleclinic wrote:Drlodge why not the kinlin XR22T and RT for the rear?
Was wondering which kinlin rim you'd suggest, looks good. Will be in touch later this year if I decide to rerim these wheels. Thanks.WyndyMilla Massive Attack | Rourke 953 | Condor Italia 531 Pro | Boardman CX Pro | DT Swiss RR440 Tubeless Wheels
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re-rim if you want to go tubeless otherwise you might as well wear them out by riding them in winter then re rim.http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.0
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I think the DT Swiss R23s have a wider rim anyway.0
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Dt swiss's idea of wide is 18mm internal width. That medium width these days. The r23 rims are the r460 are they not?http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.0
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Took a T bone at a roundabout today which has left both wheels pringled and unrideable. Deflection is about 1-2 inches and the wheels are Mavic Open Pro with something like 28/32 Competition spokes built on circa 2000 Veloce hubs. Any thoughts on whether the wheels can be just retrued, perhaps rebuilt as is or is it a case of prudence suggesting new rims/spokes? TIA.0
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Sorry to hear that - I hope YOU are OK. I had exactly the same a year ago and am still suffering...
My wheels were the same. Showed them to someone who was doing my bike fit on my replacement bike and he said that the front rim might be OK and I could try and true it but I should consider new spokes perhaps. The rear was likely too far gone - if I was inclined I could try getting it rebuilt using the rim but new spokes but he wouldnt be keen. I think it will be hard for someone from a basic description like yours to comment.
Check the frame alignment - mine had the rear dropouts misaligned afterwards - was obvious when the LBS put their alignment checker on it. And its also possible that the axles in the wheels could be bent. My rear skewer was certainly well bent. Hopefully the hubs at least will be OK though.0 -
it depends really. often with that kind of movement you find loose spokes where you would expect them to be tight given the movement and visa versa then you know the rim is bent.
Got t-boned on friday myself. the bike and me got away with it though. At least bobbings your here to tell the tale!http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.0 -
Bobbinogs wrote:Took a T bone at a roundabout today which has left both wheels pringled and unrideable. Deflection is about 1-2 inches and the wheels are Mavic Open Pro with something like 28/32 Competition spokes built on circa 2000 Veloce hubs. Any thoughts on whether the wheels can be just retrued, perhaps rebuilt as is or is it a case of prudence suggesting new rims/spokes? TIA.
If they are so out without any broken spoke, it sounds like the rims are bent. There is no practical way to bring back a bent rim to an acceptable level... sounds like new rims...
Look at the bright size... they could be Zipp...left the forum March 20230 -
Thanks guys. Need to go to the fracture clinic on Thursday for a check on my heel as the initial xrays were inconclusive but I'm hoping for the best. Must have been some impact as I apparently flew (without cape) for about 20ft and the bb axle snapped completely leaving a crank arm in the road, probably just as well that my foot is not still attached to it. Lucky escape when all is said and done. Shame those new Open Pro rims aren't out as I am sure it was those that I had ;-) apreading, good point about the frame/hanger alignment. I think I will go for a full LBS check and insurance quote.0
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Have the new Mavic rims been released into the wild yet?0
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mm1 wrote:Have the new Mavic rims been released into the wild yet?
No, they are not even on their website yetleft the forum March 20230 -
Back to my earlier question about re-rimming my wheels, had another spoke go pop on the rear of my Condor. First one went a short while ago at the root, this one broke at the mid point, both on the DS. Wheels were built by Harry Rowland over 4 years ago and they've done around 5,000 dirty miles and the rims (Mavic Open Pro CD) feel fairly worn on the rim track so thinking its best to re-rim these? I don't want to risk spokes breaking on a long ride, fortunately this second one pinged as I was un-mounting right by my front door and if 2 have gone, then likely more will go ping.
Hubs are NOS DuraAce 32H 126mm OLN rear, laser/race front/rear (7 speed cassette). Would the kinlin XR22T and RT for the rear be good options here? What about a tubeless 25c tyre for winter/dirty riding - IRC roadlites or something beefier?WyndyMilla Massive Attack | Rourke 953 | Condor Italia 531 Pro | Boardman CX Pro | DT Swiss RR440 Tubeless Wheels
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drlodge wrote:Back to my earlier question about re-rimming my wheels, had another spoke go pop on the rear of my Condor. First one went a short while ago at the root, this one broke at the mid point, both on the DS. Wheels were built by Harry Rowland over 4 years ago and they've done around 5,000 dirty miles and the rims (Mavic Open Pro CD) feel fairly worn on the rim track so thinking its best to re-rim these? I don't want to risk spokes breaking on a long ride, fortunately this second one pinged as I was un-mounting right by my front door and if 2 have gone, then likely more will go ping.
Hubs are NOS DuraAce 32H 126mm OLN rear, laser/race front/rear (7 speed cassette). Would the kinlin XR22T and RT for the rear be good options here? What about a tubeless 25c tyre for winter/dirty riding - IRC roadlites or something beefier?
Seems very low mileage for the rims to be worn and the spokes breaking... especially on a bog standar 32 H build.
DT 411?left the forum March 20230 -
ugo.santalucia wrote:Seems very low mileage for the rims to be worn and the spokes breaking... especially on a bog standar 32 H build.
DT 411?
Yes my thought too. However I've had 2 spokes break which tells me the wheel is compromised somehow and I don't think the rims are 'good enough' to warrant keeping. I'd rather have them rebuilt and be done with it, than risk another break 40 miles from home in the cold and wet.
As for the DT411, we've already had this conversation...the symmetric doesn't come in 32H :roll:WyndyMilla Massive Attack | Rourke 953 | Condor Italia 531 Pro | Boardman CX Pro | DT Swiss RR440 Tubeless Wheels
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drlodge wrote:
As for the DT411, we've already had this conversation...the symmetric doesn't come in 32H :roll:
Ah yes...left the forum March 20230 -
Yes my thought too. However I've had 2 spokes break which tells me the wheel is compromised somehow and I don't think the rims are 'good enough' to warrant keeping. I'd rather have them rebuilt and be done with it, than risk another break 40 miles from home in the cold and wet.
Surely the advantage of 32h and hand built is breaking a spoke on ride is solvable/just tie off the offending spoke and have a rough twiddle with remaining spokes to roughly true till end of ride.?
My question is: can spokes be too strong?. I've just had a mech hanger break-off, into spokes and the ones that have taken the most hit have pulled them selves through the hub eyelets j-bend and all! A lovely Ultegra 6600, I'm posting cause I'm finding it difficult to say goodbye to this hub, just look at everyday and sigh! ;-(.0 -
kinlins are perfect wider, cheaper and stiffer than the rr411 even if there was a 32h front.
roadlites are good but irc's formula pro tyres are more cut resistant without any down side.
ugo can let us know how the pardone compares to the roadlite.
no spokes cant be too strong. steel spokes are stronger than alloy rims and hubs.http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.0 -
I'd say the Padrone are on par with the Roadlite...left the forum March 20230
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drlodge wrote:
Hubs are NOS DuraAce 32H 126mm OLN rear, laser/race front/rear (7 speed cassette). Would the kinlin XR22T and RT for the rear be good options here? What about a tubeless 25c tyre for winter/dirty riding - IRC roadlites or something beefier?
DT 460? Can't fault them for the money...left the forum March 20230 -
ugo.santalucia wrote:drlodge wrote:
Hubs are NOS DuraAce 32H 126mm OLN rear, laser/race front/rear (7 speed cassette). Would the kinlin XR22T and RT for the rear be good options here? What about a tubeless 25c tyre for winter/dirty riding - IRC roadlites or something beefier?
DT 460? Can't fault them for the money...
The Kinlins come in an asymmetrical rear, which I think is an advantage. Both are the same price (£40) so probably not much in them.WyndyMilla Massive Attack | Rourke 953 | Condor Italia 531 Pro | Boardman CX Pro | DT Swiss RR440 Tubeless Wheels
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drlodge wrote:
The Kinlins come in an asymmetrical rear, which I think is an advantage. Both are the same price (£40) so probably not much in them.
Shallow, I know, but the DT 460 look way better... well, I have just ordered a pair for myself anyway...left the forum March 20230 -
DT R460 are considerably cheaper from europe, eg starbike, rose.0
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Also shallow, but I like that the R460 is U-shaped. Feels more modern.
It would be nice to see the R460 asymmetric, but that would basically kill the RR411.0 -
After a bit of advice and guidance.
I find myself in the market for a new pair of wheels thanks to current budget factory pair letting me down after a year/1500 miles. My initial reaction was to replace with another factory set, but having had a bit of trouble in the past with factory wheels I'm thinking hand built may suit me better.
I'm 75kg and the wheels will be for my nice bike that shouldn't see many wet miles (unless the commuter lets me down). With a child on the way my weekend mileage is way down at the minute so currently going out for 25 mile blasts - but fingers crossed I'll get back to longer weekend rides (60+ miles 3k+ ft ascent) when things settle down. I'm keen on climbing, but with my reduced miles the routes are pretty flat at the minute.
I'm after something that is going to last, lively enough to not want to "upgrade" down the road and fairly budget - I could probably stretch to £300.
Up here in the north east we have a dearth of wheel builders, so been looking at DCR, Strada and Malcolm etc - but could do with some other suggestions as well as what wheels I should be looking at.
Thanks0 -
"fingers crossed I'll get back to longer weekend rides (60+ miles 3k+ ft ascent) when things settle down"
Things have finally settled down for me. I'm nearly 60 and the kids of 28 and 25 have finally left home!0 -
keef66 wrote:"fingers crossed I'll get back to longer weekend rides (60+ miles 3k+ ft ascent) when things settle down"
Things have finally settled down for me. I'm nearly 60 and the kids of 28 and 25 have finally left home!
I separated over 6 years ago, which left me single and a lot more time on my hands. So went back to cycling...happy daysWyndyMilla Massive Attack | Rourke 953 | Condor Italia 531 Pro | Boardman CX Pro | DT Swiss RR440 Tubeless Wheels
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