Handbuilt wheels... the big thread
Comments
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This is my pronlem I find conti's a doddle to fit to those rims or maybe i have got so used to fitting tyres to tubeless rim k know think of it as normal. Of course if you had tubeless tyres the sealant will do the job for you and in your back pocket there are tyre worms, loctite flexible superglue and co2. If the sealnt needs help then you can help. The point being with tubeless you dont have to take the tyre off.
Still when fitting clincher work the tyre round the rim to gather the slack then use flat tyre levers to get the bead home. Campagnolo tyre levers are very good at this.
Oddly the schwable marathon plus falls into this rims with no effort. Id try other tyres. Michelins power might be worth a go.http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.0 -
Not sure about that bar tape...left the forum March 20230
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Tubeless is the plan after the contis wear out, unfortunately they're less than two months old and I've only put ~1000km on them so it's a way to go yet. :? I had to use two tyre levers to fit them on and almost snapped the levers. But I'm not an expert.ugo.santalucia wrote:Not sure about that bar tape...0
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So I just pressed the button and ordered a set of Borg 31 aero wheels fitted with formula pro RBCC 25mm tyres. Full roadtest to follow when I've ridden them! Thanks for everyone's advice.0
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which tyre levers are you using. The var lever is not the strongest but the clip part is useful. The strongest ones I have ever had are Campagnolo or IRC. I will be getting alot of IRC levers in when I next order.
the problem is if tyre slip on without levers then you would never get a tubeless tyre to seal. Still you got the tyres on. now if you want a real challange try a gatorskin hardsell on a mavic MA40 or a challange strada bianca on a H plus son archetype. Both are not tubeless rims but the latter combo is not possible for me. The former only just with alot of swearing.http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.0 -
Lifeline Professional tyre levers. they're nice and sturdy. The VAR lever I got out the packet and tried to use it but it was going to snap for sure if I put any more force on it
Great wheels. used them for the first time today. 12 strava segment PRs now I just need to figure out the "wop wop wop" noise from the front wheel braking above 30mph :?0 -
Has anyone built using the new Pacenti Forzas yet? If so what are they like? Are they the version of the sl23 that we've been waiting for?0
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It is the clip part to the VAR lever that is useful. You are meant to combine it with a strong lever. The clip part stops the tyre popping off as you lever the other side on. wop wop sound. what the heck is that.
I will build my set of of forza's soon but one set is not enough to know what they are like long term. It will take a while to find out if any problems are commonplace like on the last two itterations of the rim. On paper it looks good surely they can't cock it up a third time?http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.0 -
Matt_N wrote:Rudd wrote:Hi all,
Hopefully in a few weeks a steel pegoretti will grace my garage. I am going to have some hand built wheels and have already secured some glorious Royce hubs. I am looking for inspiration with regard rim choice. I'm looking for quality to match the frame and hubs with comfort and reliability in mind. I'll be going for a fairly high spoke count 32/28. Does any one have any ideas, the more unusual the better! Thanks
What kind of build are you going for?
Modern groupset, modern but classic looks i.e. Campag Potenza in silver, classic groupo?
If you're swaying towards a silver groupo then the H Plus Son Archetype in polished finish works really well, especially if you have polished Royce hubs?
£5 all in including postage assuming you have some tools to do the job. :PThe above may be fact, or fiction, I may be serious, I may be jesting.
I am not sure. You have no chance.Veronese68 wrote:PB is the most sensible person on here.0 -
drwae wrote:Tubeless is the plan after the contis wear out, unfortunately they're less than two months old and I've only put ~1000km on them so it's a way to go yet. :? I had to use two tyre levers to fit them on and almost snapped the levers. But I'm not an expert.ugo.santalucia wrote:Not sure about that bar tape...
Deda apple green? Looked a lot closer to the green on my CAAD online too! Nice tape, but it matches nothing.0 -
http://road.cc/content/review/216969-bo ... e-wheelset
Great review here of one of Malcolm's offerings.0 -
thecycleclinic wrote:I will build my set of of forza's soon but one set is not enough to know what they are like long term. It will take a while to find out if any problems are commonplace like on the last two itterations of the rim. On paper it looks good surely they can't fool it up a third time?0
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Some tyres were an issue on the SL23 not all (even I thought the vittoria Corsa where tight). Many of the problems though come from people mounting clinchers with tubes but using thick rim tape. Tubeless rim tape should be used on tubeless compatible rims as it make life alot easier.
Then again some tyres are a problem on any rim. For example a poster above commented how his conti tyres where tough to mount on my wheels (I find the same tyre a doddle so it also fitter related) but the challange strada bianca which will not mount to an H plus son archetype, fell onto the Kinlin rims with ease when I tried it today.
so moral is just because it is tubeless compatible does not mean tyres a tough fit. There will be some that will be tight but doable, other that will be very tight and not worth the hassle and some that will be easy. this goes for the SL23.
the forza has a deeper well so tyres should go on without much bother if tubeless tape is used. Also as I find tyre fitting pretty easy asking me which rims are easy is like asking a rachel riley which sum is hard.
People who have trouble mounting tyres to the SL23 (there are quite a few) are comparing to the rims like the mavic Open Pro which are not tubeless tyre compatible and narrow. If you want tyres that slip on, stick to that rim. If you want a better rim (stiffer, wider, asymmetric tubeless compatible....) you have to accept that you have to get better at tyre fitting to deal with some tyre/rim combo's .http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.0 -
I find that rim tape makes a big different to getting a tyre on too. I have struggled for hours, broken tyre levers and cut & bruised fingers trying to get tyres on Stans Crest rims with both Superstar supplied 'tape' which is thick and slips around often ending up with the rim tape stuck under the bead when finished. Same with Velox cloth tape which is still quite thick and doesnt allow the tyre to slide. Put some yellow Stans rim tape (even though using tubes) and hey presto - not too difficult at all...! Its thinner, lets the tyre slide down into the well easily and then when pumping up afterwards, lets the bead slide out to meet the rim properly rather than some parts being rolled under slightly. I wouldnt use any other rim tape now.0
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My SL23 front rim is now dented after a hitting a large rock and the LBS don't think its salvageable. The brake tracks on both wheels are beyond the rim wear indicators so it's probably time to replace, although after only ~8000 flat km's I was a bit surprised. I'm hoping to reuse the spokes and hubs if possible but don't fancy another set of SL23's. Can anyone recommend some replacement wide tubeless rims?0
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for what it would cost for new rims and rebuild, i suspect that advice will be to replace the spokes anyway as they wont add much and will have been subject to stresses and if you dont get the same rim you may well need different lengths anyway.0
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solarFlash wrote:My SL23 front rim is now dented after a hitting a large rock and the LBS don't think its salvageable. The brake tracks on both wheels are beyond the rim wear indicators so it's probably time to replace, although after only ~8000 flat km's I was a bit surprised. I'm hoping to reuse the spokes and hubs if possible but don't fancy another set of SL23's. Can anyone recommend some replacement wide tubeless rims?
You can reuse the spokes if the rim has the same effective rim diameter (ERD) otherwise you can't... SL23 is something like 588 or so... not a very common ERD
Some spokes are expensive, other spokes are cheapleft the forum March 20230 -
You can replace with the new Pacenti forza rim. ERD is 591 ERD of the old rim was 589mm. There is no other rim that has that erd.
8000km is in the normal range of rim life now. To keep rims under 500g brake track thickness has been sacrificed. 8000-16000 km from rims is normal. I dont get much more that 8000km from mine I have had less as well.
You can use a Kinlin rim alot cheaper and the money saved will pay for new spokes.http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.0 -
I'm looking for a powertap G3 rear wheel Shimano 10 sp. any rcecommendations/thoughts? It's to fit my Specialized Roubaix0
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Any recommendations for a cheap 32 hole winter rim? I've been using Ambrosio Evolutions so something similar would be ideal.0
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bobones wrote:Any recommendations for a cheap 32 hole winter rim? I've been using Ambrosio Evolutions so something similar would be ideal.
For a winter rim with clinchers I would go for something that mounts tyres easily... being able to fix a flat quickly in the cold is more important than any other fancy thing... Archetype are easy to mount tyres, otherwise stick to the Evolution if you can find them, which are very nice indeedleft the forum March 20230 -
Dt swiss r460 or kinlin xc 279. Archetypes have gone up in price and braking on them will cost you.
Kinlin xr22t are not too bad for tyre mounting if you use tubeless tape. A pair of schwable marathon plus tyres in 35mm litterally fell on by themselves. I was surprised by that as these tyres are normally a pig to mount.http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.0 -
So after riding my Zonda's for the past three years through varying degrees of weather commuting to work, i think after this winter they are on their last legs. Looking at the rim profile and wear its not pretty and a razor is no longer flush in fact i can feel a distinct groove in both front and rear rims
These buggers have last me through thick and thin and didn't except them to last this long with only one freehub replacement.
So, looking for something similar around £300-£350 mark that will be just as good, i don't have an N+1 so they will be going on my do it all bike, commuting, long rides, some hilly mainly smooth B roads. Any advice? There appears to be so much choice nowadays.0 -
have a read through the thread but a good starting point is Miche for reliable unfussy about weather hubs.http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.0
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Yeah I've read on from page 40 on this thing, disregarding the spats and disagreements just looking for pure facts.
From what I can gather although I still may be completely wrong but i'd be tempted to go for some BORG31 w/20/24 on miche primato hubs. Personally I think the descriptions suits what I need0 -
I use Mavic CXP 30 rims with ultegra hubs, there rock solid. Weighed them today with tyre and inner tube plus the qr. Front wheel was 1460g and the rear with 9 speed cassette 1900g0
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read from page 40 thats alot of reading!http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.0
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bobones wrote:Any recommendations for a cheap 32 hole winter rim? I've been using Ambrosio Evolutions so something similar would be ideal.
My rim of choice for that, following several winters wasting money on Ambrosio Excellights and H Plus Son Archetypes (both unnecessarily expensive and frankly too good for a proper filthy winter bike) is now Mavic Open Sport.
Cheap as chips, robust for our pothole strewn roads, handy wear indicator groove, easy to mount every tyre I've tried (a very important factor for a winter wheel as Ugo said earlier). Deeply deeply unfashionable (ie not wide) but perfectly fit for purpose.0 -
bobones wrote:Any recommendations for a cheap 32 hole winter rim? I've been using Ambrosio Evolutions so something similar would be ideal.0
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Actually the ideal winter rims dont have a brake track.
The open sport is one of the worst rims I have ever used. Did one set for a customer within one year they were not exactly round and he is not heavy either. Also quite flexy. The Exel LX17 is a pinned joined rim.
The Mavic A319 or the A119 is another option. The A319 is not made anymore but rose bikes ahave a few in 32H drilling.
However for winter riding I would not use anything else but tubeless tyres now and that means a tubeless compatible rim. The reason all winter I have not had to remove a tyre at the road side that is bliss.http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.0