Handbuilt wheels... the big thread
Comments
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Ok, so I'm looking for some deep sections for my new bike (clinchers), but don't want full carbon as I'd prefer an alu brake track. Been looking at the Zipp 60s as they're on offer at the moment, but they seem a tad on the heavy side and I want something a bit lighter for added help when in the hills. Budget is around the £700 mark, any suggestions?0
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MoscowFlyer wrote:Ok, so I'm looking for some deep sections for my new bike (clinchers), but don't want full carbon as I'd prefer an alu brake track. Been looking at the Zipp 60s as they're on offer at the moment, but they seem a tad on the heavy side and I want something a bit lighter for added help when in the hills. Budget is around the £700 mark, any suggestions?
Nothing hand built, 'mfraid... Mavic Cosmic?left the forum March 20230 -
These ones over the Zipp 60s? About 150g lighter it seems.
http://www.sigmasport.co.uk/item/Mavic/Cosmic-Pro-Carbone-25-Wheelset-2016/9MVI0 -
MoscowFlyer wrote:These ones over the Zipp 60s? About 150g lighter it seems.
http://www.sigmasport.co.uk/item/Mavic/Cosmic-Pro-Carbone-25-Wheelset-2016/9MVI
For instanceleft the forum March 20230 -
I dont sell my carnon rims seperatley never have never will. Also the comment on wide tubular rims not enough wide tubs to justify getting them. I hope that changes soon but then again there is not a big demand for tubular wheels.
Light 60mm deep wide carbon clinchers. You really want the moon on a stick dont you. If you want rims that deep accept the weight it wont slow you down.
There is a gigantex rim available in the uk 55mm deep and about 530g if the rim has to be deeper than 50mm. With a pair of bitex hubs that would be about 1600g i think.http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.0 -
are these different to the rims you build with then:
http://thecycleclinic.co.uk/collections ... -25mm-wideBMC TM01 - FCN 0
Look 695 (Geared) - FCN 1
Bowman Palace:R - FCN 1
Cannondale CAAD 9 - FCN 2
Premier (CX) - FCN 6
Premier (fixed/SS) - FCN30 -
That is a gigantex rim from a U.K distributor. The other carbon rims I use I import myself. I don't offer a wheelset with the Gigantex WH-133 I simply sell this rim as a rim only.
The rims I use in the BORG50 and 38's I do not sell seperately and will never do.
I happen to know what I sell but you are trying to catch me out. Please don't.http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.0 -
About time H plus Son came out with something new and exciting... the Hydra light, disc and tubeless, you can have all three! The nipple bed looks immense, that can probably hold massive tensions
http://www.bricklanebikes.co.uk/hson-th ... -grey-nmsw
left the forum March 20230 -
Got a pair ugo. They do look good in the flesh. I think the grey is the best and I will be building up a set with Shimano CX-75 hubs as the colours match,
Also the Ryde DP18 speed disc is arriving today. This is another wide disc brake rim but deep. Offset too.
http://www.ryde.nl/dp18-speed-dischttp://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.0 -
thecycleclinic wrote:Got a pair ugo. They do look good in the flesh. I think the grey is the best and I will be building up a set with Shimano CX-75 hubs as the colours match,
Also the Ryde DP18 speed disc is arriving today. This is another wide disc brake rim but deep. Offset too.
http://www.ryde.nl/dp18-speed-disc
Exciting time to be a wheel builder... it's good to have choice!left the forum March 20230 -
choice is good if the rims are different and these two new ones are. ryde also have a 395g pulse comp coming out for weight weenies.
http://www.ryde.nl/pulse-comp-disc
Standard 12mm sapim nipples fit in the hydra just fine (the shoulders are visible unlike in the archetype). So the nipple bed is not as thick as the archetype. It think the profile pic is wrong.http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.0 -
Interesting - I was going to get another set built with Archetype rims, might have to wait and see what these are like first...0
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thecycleclinic wrote:That is a gigantex rim from a U.K distributor. The other carbon rims I use I import myself. I don't offer a wheelset with the Gigantex WH-133 I simply sell this rim as a rim only.
The rims I use in the BORG50 and 38's I do not sell seperately and will never do.
I happen to know what I sell but you are trying to catch me out. Please don't.
are you able to get other gigantex rims as i have worked out which ones i wantBMC TM01 - FCN 0
Look 695 (Geared) - FCN 1
Bowman Palace:R - FCN 1
Cannondale CAAD 9 - FCN 2
Premier (CX) - FCN 6
Premier (fixed/SS) - FCN30 -
There are three brought into the U.K WH-133, WH-105 and WH-167
Thats it.http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.0 -
Not sure if this is still a Gigantex rim http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/RIPX50C/pl ... carbon-rim
Looks like the ones on the wheels I just sold that Ugo made for me, they were Gigantex, but mine didn't have any decals (and cost £99 at the time).WyndyMilla Massive Attack | Rourke 953 | Condor Italia 531 Pro | Boardman CX Pro | DT Swiss RR440 Tubeless Wheels
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drlodge wrote:Not sure if this is still a Gigantex rim http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/RIPX50C/pl ... carbon-rim
Looks like the ones on the wheels I just sold that Ugo made for me, they were Gigantex, but mine didn't have any decals (and cost £99 at the time).
WH 005left the forum March 20230 -
thecycleclinic wrote:There are three brought into the U.K WH-133, WH-105 and WH-167
Thats it.
any suggestions on a narrow carbon rim/wheel?BMC TM01 - FCN 0
Look 695 (Geared) - FCN 1
Bowman Palace:R - FCN 1
Cannondale CAAD 9 - FCN 2
Premier (CX) - FCN 6
Premier (fixed/SS) - FCN30 -
narrow tubular or narrow clincher. Narrow clincher is a bit rubbish. The gigantex WH-005 is not a bad choice and your only one.http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.0
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that could work, now do gigantex do them in different drillings? would like 32h rear and 24h frontBMC TM01 - FCN 0
Look 695 (Geared) - FCN 1
Bowman Palace:R - FCN 1
Cannondale CAAD 9 - FCN 2
Premier (CX) - FCN 6
Premier (fixed/SS) - FCN30 -
As a 103kg rider, I followed advice on here (and numerous other places) and went for the following build:
H Plus Son Archetype
36 Spokes (front and back)
Hope Evo 4 hubs
I let the wheelbuilder choose the spoke type (as i thought they would be bullet proof at 36 per wheel whatever type).
After approx 1000km, the back wheel is now toast!
3 consecutive rides with broken spokes (2 on the last ride)
All spokes breaking in the same place. Drive side, hub end. Is this a smoking gun for a build or spoke issue??
My LBS (not the wheelbuilder) tells me a re-build is required and a new rim will be required.
What spokes should I specify?0 -
Ajkerr73 wrote:As a 103kg rider, I followed advice on here (and numerous other places) and went for the following build:
H Plus Son Archetype
36 Spokes (front and back)
Hope Evo 4 hubs
I let the wheelbuilder choose the spoke type (as i thought they would be bullet proof at 36 per wheel whatever type).
After approx 1000km, the back wheel is now toast!
3 consecutive rides with broken spokes (2 on the last ride)
All spokes breaking in the same place. Drive side, hub end. Is this a smoking gun for a build or spoke issue??
My LBS (not the wheelbuilder) tells me a re-build is required and a new rim will be required.
What spokes should I specify?
Have you been back to the wheelbuilder as a result of these issues? Most reputable builders offer pretty iron clad guarantees regarding their workmanship.0 -
Ajkerr73 wrote:My LBS (not the wheelbuilder) tells me a re-build is required and a new rim will be required.
What spokes should I specify?
As above, go back to your wheel builder and ask him. They may be good reasons why so many spokes have broken, or your wheel builder may just be rubbish. Sort that out first.
Regarding your LBS, I would certainly ask why they believe a new rim is required, this might have something to do with why so many spokes are broken. Also you shouldn't need to specify spokes, any half decent wheel builder will advise on spokes based on your weight/use/other components etc. Alpine III spokes are heavy gauge, I wonder if you have these already on your drive side?WyndyMilla Massive Attack | Rourke 953 | Condor Italia 531 Pro | Boardman CX Pro | DT Swiss RR440 Tubeless Wheels
Find me on Strava0 -
drlodge wrote:Ajkerr73 wrote:My LBS (not the wheelbuilder) tells me a re-build is required and a new rim will be required.
What spokes should I specify?
As above, go back to your wheel builder and ask him. They may be good reasons why so many spokes have broken, or your wheel builder may just be rubbish. Sort that out first.
Regarding your LBS, I would certainly ask why they believe a new rim is required, this might have something to do with why so many spokes are broken. Also you shouldn't need to specify spokes, any half decent wheel builder will advise on spokes based on your weight/use/other components etc. Alpine III spokes are heavy gauge, I wonder if you have these already on your drive side?
I'm heading back to the wheelbuilder with it in a couple of weeks time. He's 150+miles away so not very handy.
He comes highly recommended across the board.
I'll need to see what he reckons I guess.0 -
drlodge wrote:Ajkerr73 wrote:My LBS (not the wheelbuilder) tells me a re-build is required and a new rim will be required.
What spokes should I specify?
As above, go back to your wheel builder and ask him. They may be good reasons why so many spokes have broken, or your wheel builder may just be rubbish. Sort that out first.
Regarding your LBS, I would certainly ask why they believe a new rim is required, this might have something to do with why so many spokes are broken. Also you shouldn't need to specify spokes, any half decent wheel builder will advise on spokes based on your weight/use/other components etc. Alpine III spokes are heavy gauge, I wonder if you have these already on your drive side?
Would the rim need replaced as I rode on with the spoke broken for 20 or so miles?
ie, riding with the wheel out of true??0 -
Ajkerr73 wrote:Would the rim need replaced as I rode on with the spoke broken for 20 or so miles?
ie, riding with the wheel out of true??
Perhaps, but I doubt it. If the rim really does need replacing, it will likely be damaged. Then the question is - is it damaged because of the broken spokes, or did the spokes break because of damage to the rim? Once one spoke goes, others may follow which could account for why you had 2 broken spokes on one ride. Spoke breakage is usually because of insufficient tension.WyndyMilla Massive Attack | Rourke 953 | Condor Italia 531 Pro | Boardman CX Pro | DT Swiss RR440 Tubeless Wheels
Find me on Strava0 -
Insufficient tension
36 sapim race or DT comp properly tensioned should last YOU 15 K miles at the very least.
EDIT: when I started building wheels I thought there might be an element of luck... the odd bad spoke, but it simply isn't the case, I have never come across such occurrence. Wheels are predictable and if they are properly built they last, if they are not, they don't lastleft the forum March 20230 -
103kg on that number of spokes and that rim and hub combination should be absolutely no problem at all. I hover around 98-104kg depending on my state of fatness or fitness and run 32 Sapim Race on a 23mm rim and Novatech hubs with no issues whatsoever. I have Hope hubs (32 drilling) on both my MTBs and they've been exemplary as well.
Sounds like a poor build.Trail fun - Transition Bandit
Road - Wilier Izoard Centaur/Cube Agree C62 Disc
Allround - Cotic Solaris0