Powerlinks don't go together or come apart when squeezed

Primus84

Seriously, just what on earth is going on?! This is ridiculous

Manc33

Primus84 wrote:

Seriously, just what on earth is going on?! This is ridiculous

I came here for an argument!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kQFKtI6gn9Y

rolf_f

This is why it is so important not to drop your baby on its head.

keezx

Manc33 wrote:

it is barely any more effort doing it the old way - that has worked for more than 100 years.

Except the fact that the old wide chains were unproblematic in closing with a pushed-out pin, and 9/10/11 speed are.

dj58

Manc33 wrote:

Squeezes don't come together or link apart when power gone, wait wut.

Guys, I have taken the missing link (or whatever they are called this month) out of my chain.

I planned on using it to see if the metal started going across into the exit hole, but why do that when I know that happens. Even the chain manufacturers own documentation hints at it. Best to just not use one then I think, it is barely any more effort doing it the old way - that has worked for more than 100 years. :roll:

What kind of mileage are you getting out of your chains? Is a quick link really going to disintegrate over the life of a typical mileage chain, and if you fit the new link that comes with the new chain, (KMC, SRAM) is this really going to be a problem?

imposter2.0

DJ58 wrote:

What kind of mileage are you getting out of your chains?

He doesn't do any miles. His bike is in a permanent state of 'unrepair'...

Manc33

My last chain was ruined by a chain cleaning machine.

How long would a chain last on a bike unlubricated? I mean dry and "tinkling" Would it get hot? Would it snap?

They should have a programme like Top Gear called "Outer Cog" and do stuff like that, shove a load of super fine sand in the chain and hand it to a veteran cyclist to hammer, see what happens to the chain. That's as exciting as anything on Top Gear these days.

chris_bass

Manc33 wrote:

My last chain was ruined by a chain cleaning machine.

How long would a chain last on a bike unlubricated? I mean dry and "tinkling" Would it get hot? Would it snap?

They should have a programme like Top Gear called "Outer Cog" and do stuff like that, shove a load of super fine sand in the chain and hand it to a veteran cyclist to hammer, see what happens to the chain. That's as exciting as anything on Top Gear these days.

I know I am going to regret asking but how on earth did a chain cleaning machine ruin your chain?

An unlubricated chain would last a pretty long time, it wouldn't make a very nice noise, wouldn't shift as well and probably be a bit more difficult to ride but it'd be ok for quite a while.

sungod

Chris Bass wrote:

...I know I am going to regret asking but how on earth did a chain cleaning machine ruin your chain?
...

in the hands of someone who can't even work a kmc link, i'd imagine a chain cleaner causing all manner of mayhem, probably lucky to be alive

veronese68

sungod wrote:

Chris Bass wrote:

...I know I am going to regret asking but how on earth did a chain cleaning machine ruin your chain?
...

in the hands of someone who can't even work a kmc link, i'd imagine a chain cleaner causing all manner of mayhem, probably lucky to be alive

Exactly, it can't if used in the manner intended. Using a chain cleaner then not oiling the chain properly could damage a chain. Using a chain cleaner moments before a knackered chain, that was going to fail anyway, fails could lead someone to think it's the chain cleaner when in actual fact the chain was knackered anyway. A chain cleaner is just some brushes and degreaser in a plastic container, how can it damage a steel chain? Unless you put really strong acid in the chain cleaner, but then the chain cleaner would still melt before the chain.

darkhairedlord

Of course his chain has worn out. The chain rings on hos crankset are probably 20 year old 6 speed and goodness knows what's now on the back? that poor chain didn't stand a chance.

In better news, Manc33's next bike will have disks! :oops:

darkhairedlord

I vote for Manc33 to post his bike in the "my road bike" section, just so we can understand what he is dealing with here!

chris_bass

I don't think it really exists

diplodicus

Chris Bass wrote:

I don't think it really exists

Do you think it is part of a conspiracy? :shock:

nweststeyn

It's definitely an elaborate (or maybe not so elaborate) joke/hoax.

Manc33

Its a road bike with flat bars because of my sciatica. What's not to believe. :roll:

Even if I didn't have a bad back, I wouldn't be on drops. Something doesn't feel right cycling all hunched up like that and as for changing gear when on the drops, pffffffffff... unless you've got 2 inch long fingers, no thanks.

Can't get used to it. I want the gears at my fingertips. You can't pull brakes as effectively on a flat bar bike, from on the hoods anyway. Its a myriad of reasons with my back being the main thing that stops me having drops. Maybe if I was racing lol. You can race, or you can be comfy. :roll:

Then there's the reach issue with hoods being really long these days, hard to know how to fit a bike lol, hoods used to be like 1.5 inches in the Biopace days, now they look to be over 3 inches. Looks suspiciously like the bar ends on mountain bikes actually. So you have 1.5 inches more reach to take into account than in the past... but I don't think anyone ever has taken that into account, frame makers won't have.

Then there's the obvious thing with drop bars - the brake lever can go sideways as well as forward and back, which I have always hated. I know, its "safe" etc etc, but why risk it lol. Again its all for the convenience of it, like with quick links. Brifters do sacrifice some safety, I don't care what anyone says, you only have to look at the way one moves to see that and it is the first thing most people say about it. Go off your gut instinct folks, always.

crikey

I hesitate to give you another topic to get your teeth into, but are you sure it is sciatica, not piriformis syndrome?

nweststeyn

Did you get the sciatica from pumping your tyres up? I heard that track pumps can cause sciatica because they're designed badly. Try just blowing into the valves.

darkhairedlord

no picture, no bike....

Manc33

I have posted pics in the past. Not of the bike in its current state, its always changing.

For example I am putting a MTB shifter back on for the front because I realized after sorting my front mech out it should work properly.

Check this out - I have a shifter with trim on it and the only reason the chain rubs anywhere is because the sweeps on the shifter are reduced by.... drum roll... you won't believe it... the sodding trim function itself. :shock: I worked it out before... if this shifter didn't have those extra notches on it (and it having to accommodate for them) there would be no chain rub! Absolutely ridiculous. Again another stupid unnecessary gimmick that only spoils the enjoyment of riding the bike. I had it setup on a MTB shifter before and had no rubbing all the way across the cassette on the middle chainring so there it is. Trim functions are a gimmick. It doesn't alleviate chain rub, it causes it by the lever needing to accommodate for the trim, mind boggling.

When you have trim, you can be riding along on the middle chainring for 20 minutes and you must remember if you either changed down from the outer, or changed up from the granny. If you changed down from the outer, the middle ring can be trimmed up. If you changed from the granny to the middle, the middle can be trimmed down. Do people seriously ride along REMEMBERING that? Don't tell me you don't need to because you do. The trim is different depending on how you last changed onto the middle ring, just absurd honestly.

MisterMuncher

I'm not seeing the issue with finger length and STI shifters.

Vaguely reminded of a girl I once knew who found driving exhausting, because she genuinely didn't understand she could rest her heels on the floor, so she kept her feet hovering above the pedals.

MisterMuncher

By the simple expedient of knowing where I've been, I can usually be pretty sure of where my FD cage is. That and I find I've no real need of the trim settings on 6800 beyond borderline cross-chaining. When I'm on the outer ring, I'm on the outermost setting, "double click" the paddle to drop to the inner. It's about as hard to remember as trousers in the morning.

nweststeyn

Manc33, you should be working in the industry man! Get your CVs out to all the bike r&d depts, they could use a problem solver like you.

crikey

Do people seriously ride along REMEMBERING that?

You've got your address sewn into your coat so you don't forget where you live, haven't you?

What did you do before cycling occupied your time?

Manc33

What about the trim function taking up some of the shifter cable and actually being the cause of chain rub?

Can't anyone see the irony in that?!

There's only a finite amount of cable pull in a shifter - this has to be a constant. The shifter cable pull cannot just be expanded on shifters that have trim (because then you'd be shifting your chain right off the outer chainring) so that means the trim is interfering with it, which is what I thought was happening, which is why the MTB shifter worked fine. I find this unbelievable. They put trim on to alleviate chain rub, or that's the spiel. Yes it does but you might only have chain rub because the shifter has trim on it. Catch 22. Just swap to a shifter without trim lol, if you can even find a road shifter without it. MTB shifters just don't have it full stop. :roll:

nweststeyn

First.Aspect

Is this it?

t4tomo

First Aspect wrote:

Is this it?

Did an Italian gentleman leave that in your bed?

kayakerchris

Manc33, have you thought of Di2? It does all the trimming for you. Then you could get a belt drive and never need a chain again!!

nweststeyn

Can you imagine Manc33 installing Di2