Planet X London Road
Comments
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I once thought that silver looked better for my commuter so held out and paid a small premium to get them. After 2 months use, I couldn't have cared less the colour. Mudguards get abused in the winter and in the end, you're only care is staying dry; not what colour of mudguard is keeping you dry. Be aware; painted silver gets dirty and scraped easily with use. With my lessons learned, doing it again I'd go for what is available and not stressing on colour. I think when you look at the specs, the weights will be the same.Looking at mud guards for commuting duty. SKS P45s seem to be the way to go - question now is black, or silver? The finishing kit is all black, but I've had two black framed bikes with mudguards before. One with silver guards and one with black, and the silver always looked a bit lighter to me and I've preferred it. What do people think (and what colour have other zesty lime owners gone for?)
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I'm very close to buying a frameset, trouble is I want the zesty lime but not at £300, only the silver is £200. I might have to bite the bullet and pay it.
A silver medium frameset and headset is on it's way cause I won a 5600 chainset auction on Ebay.I've added a signature to prove it is still possible.0 -
Given the forks are stated as carbon, do I assume full carbon or carbon blades with alloy steerer? Spec says star nut so I'm assuming alloy steerer.I've added a signature to prove it is still possible.0
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Given the forks are stated as carbon, do I assume full carbon or carbon blades with alloy steerer? Spec says star nut so I'm assuming alloy steerer.
Yep, alloy steerer0 -
Mine arrived this week and I've put some Kinesis wheels and 28s on which has knocked the weight to 8.9kg. It's going to be my winter steed. I'm excited to take it to some Belgian cobbles next month!!!
I put 40s on for some CX tomorrow and I get pretty bad toe overlap (I only wear UK7, cleats as far forward as possible), which is worrying me somewhat!
A couple of issues which I'd really appreciate some opinions on...
1) the brakes don't seem to be bled very well, in that the levers touch the bars when I brake. As a result, I have to use my whole hand to brake, otherwise my fingers on the bar get it the way. I spoke to PX who said that they're set up deliberately like that, but sounded like a bit of a fob off to me!
2) my bike was delivered without the bars attached, but the stem was facing forward with the top cap tightened. I learned the hard way that they'd slackened off the stem/steerer tube bolts, even though they sent a sheet saying it had been torque'd up. Through numerous emails with PX, they say this is 'industry standard' to facilitate delivery to turn the bars at 90°, which seems irrelevant to me if they had taken the bars off anyway and left the stem facing forwards! I'd love to know how other people have received their bike out of interest, and also, spread a word of warning to other customers!!!
So, bit of mixed feelings at the moment. Hopefully some CX action on the moors tomorrow will set some sparks off!0 -
If you have hydraulics, then you may need to 'advance the pads'. To do this, remove the wheel, depress the lever slightly and let it go. If it doesnt settle slightly further in than before you did this then repeat, pulling slightly further in. Dont pull all the way and cause problems though. If you do this, it will make the pads move further in and when you pull the levers they will have less travel before biting.0
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If you have hydraulics, then you may need to 'advance the pads'. To do this, remove the wheel, depress the lever slightly and let it go. If it doesnt settle slightly further in than before you did this then repeat, pulling slightly further in. Dont pull all the way and cause problems though. If you do this, it will make the pads move further in and when you pull the levers they will have less travel before biting.
Thanks very much for the advice, I'll give it a go. Although, the discs rub on the pads as it is (as I've read with other people in previous posts), which made me think that it's more likely to be air in the line.0 -
Mine was the same, and I'm ashamed to admit that I only realised when I noticed the stem and the front wheel weren't lined up after a ride round the block.2) my bike was delivered without the bars attached, but the stem was facing forward with the top cap tightened. I learned the hard way that they'd slackened off the stem/steerer tube bolts, even though they sent a sheet saying it had been torque'd up. Through numerous emails with PX, they say this is 'industry standard' to facilitate delivery to turn the bars at 90°, which seems irrelevant to me if they had taken the bars off anyway and left the stem facing forwards! I'd love to know how other people have received their bike out of interest, and also, spread a word of warning to other customers!!!0 -
I've had a problem with my pads rubbing on the discs, but that was caused by my own cack handed fettling. They were fine out of the box.
Thanks very much for the advice, I'll give it a go. Although, the discs rub on the pads as it is (as I've read with other people in previous posts), which made me think that it's more likely to be air in the line.0 -
Mine was the same, and I'm ashamed to admit that I only realised when I noticed the stem and the front wheel weren't lined up after a ride round the block.
Cheers for the reply. It seems a bit daft/irresponsible to me. A box is ticked to say they've torque'd them up, but no other document to say that they've loosened them (for no apparent reason). If them stem was turned at 90deg and the top cap was slack, fair enough, but it could really cause a nasty accident.0 -
1) the brakes don't seem to be bled very well, in that the levers touch the bars when I brake. As a result, I have to use my whole hand to brake, otherwise my fingers on the bar get it the way. I spoke to PX who said that they're set up deliberately like that, but sounded like a bit of a fob off to me!
It may be that you need to adjust the reach on the levers. I found that when I adjusted them closer to the bars, my fingers got caught under the shifter when braking with two fingers from the hoods so I moved them back again.
This is done using two small allen key grub screws, one for the shifter, one for the brake lever. Adjust the brake lever away from the bar first - you pull the shifter in to the bar the screw is straight up above the shifter pivot point. Then you need to adjust the shifter back towards the brake lever using the grub screw on the inward facing top of the shifter.0 -
Mine looks like this at the moment, fitted bottle cage/rack bolts only so far. Got all the parts apart from seatpost and pannier rack and bar tap to build it up, just lacking time. Need to get crown race fitted properly.
I've added a signature to prove it is still possible.0 -
Given the size of the rack I tried to buy one from my LBS, they didn't have any in stock so checked on the Zyro B2B website but had a due date of 24/08!!! Would have preferred to buy from them but not waiting that long so ordered online for £20.I've added a signature to prove it is still possible.0 -
I've been fitting my SKS P45 chromoplastic mudguards this afternoon. I've got the rear fitted without too much trouble, but I can't work out how to attach the bracket on the front guard to the front forks. The bolt provided isn't long enough to go all the way through to the front, and I can't work out how to thread the nut onto the bolt inside the fork as the guard is in the way of where I'd need to put my hand while trying to attach it.
I'm sure I'm missing something obvious, how do I attach the front guard to the fork?0 -
I've been fitting my SKS P45 chromoplastic mudguards this afternoon. I've got the rear fitted without too much trouble, but I can't work out how to attach the bracket on the front guard to the front forks. The bolt provided isn't long enough to go all the way through to the front, and I can't work out how to thread the nut onto the bolt inside the fork as the guard is in the way of where I'd need to put my hand while trying to attach it.
I'm sure I'm missing something obvious, how do I attach the front guard to the fork?
need to use a long bolt and nylon lock nut..0 -
I've been fitting my SKS P45 chromoplastic mudguards this afternoon. I've got the rear fitted without too much trouble, but I can't work out how to attach the bracket on the front guard to the front forks. The bolt provided isn't long enough to go all the way through to the front, and I can't work out how to thread the nut onto the bolt inside the fork as the guard is in the way of where I'd need to put my hand while trying to attach it.
I'm sure I'm missing something obvious, how do I attach the front guard to the fork?
I repliend to Graeme in a PM but thought it would be useful to post the mothod publicly in case anybody else has the same issue:
I used one of the supplied bolts which has an allen head, into a nut. There should be one in the pack which is long enough but not too long.
1. Front wheel off
2. From the inside of the fork crown, feed the bolt through the rear hole in the fork and through the bracket on the front guard.
3. Stick your allen key through the front hole on the fork crown so it engages with the allen bolt head. Thread on the nut with fingers, whilst holding the allen key steady, then tighten the nut with a socket wrench or spanner.0 -
I received my stealth black LR a few days ago. Stuck 28mm tyres on, and its amazingly comfortable. Really happy with it.Cube Attain SL Disc
Giant CRS 2.00 -
Thanks to ryanshattered's instructions I now know what I'm doing. I was stupidly trying to locate the nut inside the fork crown and push the bolt in from the outside, which was blatantly never going to work!0
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One Zesty Rival HYD in the build queue
And the people bowed and prayed, to the neon god they made.0 -
One Zesty Rival HYD in the build queue
I decided against the hydraulic version so I could get some bib shorts and extras with my c2w voucher. 200 notes for a hydraulic upgrade cant be sniffed at though. That said, as a first time user of disc brakes, the mechanical discs are amazing.
As for the bike, the good reviews are justified, I absolutely love this bike.Cube Attain SL Disc
Giant CRS 2.00 -
That said, as a first time user of disc brakes, the mechanical discs are amazing.
I'm in the position to afford hydraulic discs but prefer the simplicity of a cable set up that I can fettle at home. I've got Hy:Rds going on my LR.I've added a signature to prove it is still possible.0 -
Fair enough. I had mech discs a few years back on a mtb and didnt get on with them. Never had a problem with avid shimano or sram mtb hydraulics, worth a punt.One Zesty Rival HYD in the build queue
I decided against the hydraulic version so I could get some bib shorts and extras with my c2w voucher. 200 notes for a hydraulic upgrade cant be sniffed at though. That said, as a first time user of disc brakes, the mechanical discs are amazing.
As for the bike, the good reviews are justified, I absolutely love this bike.And the people bowed and prayed, to the neon god they made.0 -
What does "Order held whilst awaiting stock" translate to? Something on the build being out of stock or the build itself becoming "stock"
And the people bowed and prayed, to the neon god they made.0 -
What does "Order held whilst awaiting stock" translate to? Something on the build being out of stock or the build itself becoming "stock"
I'd go with an item for the build being out of stock, when I ordered my F&F I ordered a headset as well and took one of the last few and soon afterwards the headset vanished off the PX website.I've added a signature to prove it is still possible.0 -
I feared this is probably the case so I've sent a support ticket asking for expected stock date/s of the missing bits. If it's going to take until next winter, I want me money backWhat does "Order held whilst awaiting stock" translate to? Something on the build being out of stock or the build itself becoming "stock"
I'd go with an item for the build being out of stock, when I ordered my F&F I ordered a headset as well and took one of the last few and soon afterwards the headset vanished off the PX website.
And the people bowed and prayed, to the neon god they made.0 -
6 days on and I've upgraded to "Order in picking" :shock: Will have it for winter, not sure which year
I feared this is probably the case so I've sent a support ticket asking for expected stock date/s of the missing bits. If it's going to take until next winter, I want me money backWhat does "Order held whilst awaiting stock" translate to? Something on the build being out of stock or the build itself becoming "stock"
I'd go with an item for the build being out of stock, when I ordered my F&F I ordered a headset as well and took one of the last few and soon afterwards the headset vanished off the PX website. And the people bowed and prayed, to the neon god they made.0 -
If you're willing to go the self build route PX are flogging silver medium framesets for £150.I've added a signature to prove it is still possible.0
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My LR now has to go back to Planet X. The seatpost kept slipping, so they want it back as they claim that they have had a dodgy batch of frames being slightly too big. They are going to swap the frameCube Attain SL Disc
Giant CRS 2.00 -
There was a thread on Single Track World where a lot of people bought the cheap blue/silver framsets and a number of them had this problem. Mine seems to have been ok, although it is loose enough that if I undo the seat clamp it drops straight into the frame, and I've never had a bike where that happens before.My LR now has to go back to Planet X. The seatpost kept slipping, so they want it back as they claim that they have had a dodgy batch of frames being slightly too big. They are going to swap the frame0
