Planet X London Road

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Comments

  • BigMonka wrote:
    Mambojays wrote:
    I'm planning to get the LR as my one and only road/touring/commute bike. I've also recently did a bike sizing/fit to ensure this bike would fit me well. I'm 5'9" and my bike fitter have suggested I go with size M,

    Anybody who is riding a size M, if you could help me with this.

    1) I'm planning to use a shimano clipless pedal. Do you think I will have any problems with toe-overlaps? I may also be fitting a mudguard for commuting days.

    2) The PX handlebars are listed with measurements from center to center. I'm not sure if they measure from the brake hoods to brake hoods or the bar ends ? I can't tell visually if the bar ends are flaring outwards. I'm planning to get a 420mm hoods to hoods to fit my well.

    Thanks in advance for any advise. Looking forward ride more long endurance distance in the future.
    1) I'm 5'8" and ride a Medium with SPD shoes and mudguards. I do get toe overlap but it only took a couple of rides before I just got used to having my feet in the right place when doing particularly tight turns. It really hasn't caused me any problems since the first week of having it which is a year now.
    2) Mine's a year old so the spec may have changed, but the bars are definitely not flared. I'm not sure how they do the measurements, but I've found the customer service to be pretty good on questions like that (though less good on dealing with actual issues I believe)

    Thanks for the feedback. Anyone have any feedback with the SRAM/BB7 mechanical disc combo? I've tried them and none of my buddies here ride with road disc and MTB guys kept suggesting to go with hyros. ( I fear I can't fix them myself during long distance rides/tours )
  • bigmonka
    bigmonka Posts: 361
    I really like the SRAM Rival22 on mine, shifts really nicely and I'm now a fan of the double tap system.
    BB7s are fine for me and my riding, certainly an improvement on the old tektros I had on my commuter hybrid - but I've never tried hydros so can't comment on them (although I've never heard anyone not prefer them over every other type of brake)
  • Has anyone got a custom frame bag made for their bike? Thinking of doing it myself and wondered if anyone had photos of a LR with one. Alpkit stingray for example.
  • top_bhoy
    top_bhoy Posts: 1,424
    I've SKS Longboard guards and struggling to fit the front guard to the standard London Road fork. The rear guard fits fine but not the front, perhaps I'm missing something?

    For others who have the SKS Longboard guards fitted, did you have to modify anything, if so, what did you have to do? If there are pics available of your set-up, that would also be appreciated.

    Cheers
  • graeme_s-2
    graeme_s-2 Posts: 3,382
    What's the problem Top Bhoy? The attachment at the crown, or the mudguard fixings on the forks?
  • top_bhoy
    top_bhoy Posts: 1,424
    Graeme_S wrote:
    What's the problem Top Bhoy? The attachment at the crown, or the mudguard fixings on the forks?

    The guard attachment point in the middle of the fork appears to be the issues. The guard seems so out of place and physically impossible trying to mount it to there.
  • graeme_s-2
    graeme_s-2 Posts: 3,382
    You need to bend the metal mudguard stays, and then you'll need to cut them down to the right size. It's a bit of an extra faff. There are various photos on this thread of people who've done their's
  • NeXXus
    NeXXus Posts: 854
    Run the stays through the eyes on the guard without the wee black protector.

    Use the 8mm nuts to align/space the guard then mark the stay around 1cm above the edge of the plastic, remove and cut down.

    Refit with the black cap/protector things
    And the people bowed and prayed, to the neon god they made.
  • top_bhoy
    top_bhoy Posts: 1,424
    NeXXus wrote:
    Run the stays through the eyes on the guard without the wee black protector.

    Use the 8mm nuts to align/space the guard then mark the stay around 1cm above the edge of the plastic, remove and cut down.

    Refit with the black cap/protector things

    I'm back in Glasgow for the next 2-3 weeks and I had a play with it again just before I left. While it almost fitted,the guard is sitting too close to the tyre and appears to be rubbing. The lower stay appeared to be just short though I will look at it again. The bike is in Oz so won't be able to try anything more until then. I'll update on whether my struggles are over or if they continue in a few weeks and I have a chance to look at matters in a new light.

    The bike itself isgreat but who'd have thought fitting a set of mudguards could be such a pain in the ass?
  • tangled_metal
    tangled_metal Posts: 4,021
    I should know this but what size qr skewers for this bike? Bought before thru axles came in. I'm guessing 100mm front and 135mm rear. Is that typical mtb / disc bike spacings? I'm guessing non-disc are 130mm rear.

    Anyone confirm this as I need an urgent purchase b4 i can get home to measure.
  • dinyull
    dinyull Posts: 2,979
    I've just measured mine at work, 100mm front and 135mm rear. This is taken from inside both dropouts - is that correct?!
  • tangled_metal
    tangled_metal Posts: 4,021
    That's what i thought. So I'm guessing the QRs will have a bolt length of something like 160mm rear to go through the dropouts and enable the nut to be screwed on with sufficient clearance. I think this is standard mtb lengths.
  • dinyull
    dinyull Posts: 2,979
    Think I measured 170mm, but yeah.
  • tangled_metal
    tangled_metal Posts: 4,021
    Thanks. A set of hope QRs about to be ordered. They've got brass washers but I'd still prefer internal cam operating levers but they're not as common and all seem to be trainer QRs.
  • top_bhoy
    top_bhoy Posts: 1,424
    Top_Bhoy wrote:
    NeXXus wrote:
    Run the stays through the eyes on the guard without the wee black protector.

    Use the 8mm nuts to align/space the guard then mark the stay around 1cm above the edge of the plastic, remove and cut down.

    Refit with the black cap/protector things

    I'm back in Glasgow for the next 2-3 weeks and I had a play with it again just before I left. While it almost fitted,the guard is sitting too close to the tyre and appears to be rubbing. The lower stay appeared to be just short though I will look at it again. The bike is in Oz so won't be able to try anything more until then. I'll update on whether my struggles are over or if they continue in a few weeks and I have a chance to look at matters in a new light.

    The bike itself is great but who'd have thought fitting a set of mudguards could be such a pain in the ass?

    I'd like to thank everyone for their contribution. After reading everyone's comments again and spending a couple of hours faffing around, trying to be patient, I eventually managed to get the guards cut to size and fitting well. Its a flat bar build, rides great and is looking really good - I'll try and post a few photos at the weekend.
  • garnett
    garnett Posts: 196
    So. Was a consensus reached on the best mudguards to fix onto these? Not altogether thrilled with mine:-

    U9SMk2l.jpg

    For me the bizarre placement of the bolt on the front fork is what causes the most compatibility issues.
  • rubertoe
    rubertoe Posts: 3,994
    The fact that this has 36 pages is either tempting me to get one (lime green natch) or not.

    General consenus?

    I am really not loving my Kaff to much these days so will port the parts over (or change to tiagra 4700 and sell the parts).

    How do those that live with these day in day out get on with them.
    "If you always do what you've always done, you'll always get what you've always got."

    PX Kaffenback 2 = Work Horse
    B-Twin Alur 700 = Sundays and Hills
  • staffo
    staffo Posts: 82
    Garnett wrote:
    So. Was a consensus reached on the best mudguards to fix onto these? Not altogether thrilled with mine:-

    U9SMk2l.jpg

    For me the bizarre placement of the bolt on the front fork is what causes the most compatibility issues.

    They look identical to the mudguards fitted to mine. I put a double bend in the lower front stays to get them to enter the bracket at a suitable angle. It was a lot easier than I expected. Haven't had any problems since. As you've already cut yours, I suspect they will be too short to do similar.
  • bigmonka
    bigmonka Posts: 361
    rubertoe wrote:
    The fact that this has 36 pages is either tempting me to get one (lime green natch) or not.

    General consenus?

    I am really not loving my Kaff to much these days so will port the parts over (or change to tiagra 4700 and sell the parts).

    How do those that live with these day in day out get on with them.
    I really like mine. It's my only decent bike (I know it's just a workhorse for most people rather than anything fancy) but I still find that it makes the 20miles of commuting each day really enjoyable.
  • graeme_s-2
    graeme_s-2 Posts: 3,382
    Mine is a work horse, but it's also pretty much all I ride at the moment. Love the fat tyres and hydraulic discs. Makes it a very comfortable and reliable ride. Have also done the occasional longer ride, and found it nimble enough for me, although obviously it's a little lardy.
  • redvee
    redvee Posts: 11,922
    If I didn't like the bike/frame I would have two of them, my original silver one is now coming up to 7500 miles old. The zesty lime model is seemingly a little unloved having not been ridden for three months :shock:
    I've added a signature to prove it is still possible.
  • dinyull
    dinyull Posts: 2,979
    Mine a work horse too and the only thing about it I'm not getting on with atm is the brakes. Had mechanical TRP Spyres which function but don't like the feel, changed to semi-hydraulic Acor which feel much better but have been less reliable and are back to the shop so back to Spyres.

    I'd say if your gonna do it, hydraulics are a must - I'm currently trying to convince myself to stump up the money.
  • dinyull
    dinyull Posts: 2,979
    rubertoe wrote:
    The fact that this has 36 pages is either tempting me to get one (lime green natch) or not.

    General consenus?

    I am really not loving my Kaff to much these days so will port the parts over (or change to tiagra 4700 and sell the parts).

    How do those that live with these day in day out get on with them.

    If you do decide to go for it, I have a lime green frame (minus fork) sat spare in the garage I'm looking to sell in size medium. Has been used for about 1k miles before I opted for a bigger frame.
  • rubertoe
    rubertoe Posts: 3,994
    Dinyull wrote:
    rubertoe wrote:
    The fact that this has 36 pages is either tempting me to get one (lime green natch) or not.

    General consensus?

    I am really not loving my Kaff to much these days so will port the parts over (or change to tiagra 4700 and sell the parts).

    How do those that live with these day in day out get on with them.

    If you do decide to go for it, I have a lime green frame (minus fork) sat spare in the garage I'm looking to sell in size medium. Has been used for about 1k miles before I opted for a bigger frame.

    What sort of damage? Happt o be pm'd - bare in mind that i can get a new one (frame/fork/ headset seatpost etc for £250)
    "If you always do what you've always done, you'll always get what you've always got."

    PX Kaffenback 2 = Work Horse
    B-Twin Alur 700 = Sundays and Hills
  • PhilPub
    PhilPub Posts: 229
    rubertoe wrote:
    The fact that this has 36 pages is either tempting me to get one (lime green natch) or not.

    General consenus?

    15 months and 4,000+ miles into mine and very happy. It's seen a good mix of A-to-B riding, bad weather training rides, and touring. The nasty graphics on the blue frame have been toned down by my collection of US Pacific coast souvenir stickers. :D I'm pleased that besides swapping out the saddle and tyres (for Marathon Supreme, 4,000 miles and no flats), everything else is the stock Rival 22 build with mechanical discs and it's all still working perfectly.

    As mentioned a few times here, only real minor gripe is the toe overlap, especially with guards on, although I've largely got used to it. If I was to get another one I'd probably get the large as opposed to medium; it's sporting a couple of spacers at the moment so I could probably get the same position with a shorter stem. Other than that I think it's a good bike for the money, with a good equipment spec.
  • jolmes
    jolmes Posts: 144
    Anybody happen to be getting rid of an XL in Zesty Lime? Liking the look of these as a commuter.
  • I've finally received my London Road, and it rides as suggested by most the forumers feedback.
    Took it out for a few short rides to fine tune the saddle and brake level adjustments. Recently did a 140km ride with a cycling group only to find out the rear freehub started to make cracking sound everytime I freewheel. Its as though a bearing or something inside the freehub is broken or damaged.

    I believe PX used a aftermarket shimano hub

    This is quite sad for a new bike. Are components not build to widthstand such ride?
    Contacting PX to see if they can help me with this issue. Anyone here have the same issues with their rear hubs/freehub?
  • Lucky me, a change of job has provided me with an opportunity to add one of these to my collection so I can ride it to work!

    Thanks to all the useful information in this thread, adding the mudguards and rack proved to be reasonably painless apart from the front mudguard which was a bit of a git to get right.

    The wheels which seem to weigh about the same as a small planet are about to be replaced with a pair of Hunt 4Season Gravel Disc which should shed a few hundred grams.

    Spec is:
    Small frame
    SRAM Rival 11 HRD with 165mm cranks
    Selcof Zeta 80mm stem
    Planet X Strada 38cm bars
    Selcof Delta HM carbon seatpost
    Gipiemme Roccia Equipe wheels (heavy!)
    Prologo Zero 2 Saddle
    SKS P45 Chromoplastic mudguards
    Tortec Velocity rack
    Shimano M540 pedals
    Planet X bottle cage

    Weight as seen in the photo is about 11.3Kg

    Ordering was painless and I opted to collect from the Sheffield store which is reasonably close to me. Everything seems ok and everything was as specified. They even fitted the little chain spotter thing which was a nice surprise given the postings earlier in this thread suggesting sometimes they don't.

    Looking forward to putting many miles on it!

    IMG_20170501_155736_zpsde2vmz6g.jpg
  • scott5
    scott5 Posts: 83
    Hi there, I am aware I'm in the wrong subject on the forum, however I have a question that I'm guessing on planet X bike owners can answer (may be without being prejudice to the brand). I'm looking at a Plant X Pro Carbon Shimano Ultegra for €1599. Is this a good deal? It's not likely I'm going to be able to test ride as it is a 2 and a half hour drive to the shop.
    So are they any good, do they ride ok etc.
    Any feedback would be appreciated
    Thanks
  • dinyull
    dinyull Posts: 2,979
    scott5 wrote:
    Hi there, I am aware I'm in the wrong subject on the forum, however I have a question that I'm guessing on planet X bike owners can answer (may be without being prejudice to the brand). I'm looking at a Plant X Pro Carbon Shimano Ultegra for €1599. Is this a good deal? It's not likely I'm going to be able to test ride as it is a 2 and a half hour drive to the shop.
    So are they any good, do they ride ok etc.
    Any feedback would be appreciated
    Thanks

    I haven't ridden one but I think the frame is close, if not over a 10 year old design now and was always noted as being a bit flexy.

    For £1200 (from their site) I think you could do better - although you might struggle to find something with Ultegra. It's certainly not where my money would go.

    If you are interested though, I'd start up a thread in Buying Advice or search in there as it's a pretty popular frame being cheap carbon.