Planet X London Road

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Comments

  • dinyull
    dinyull Posts: 2,979
    http://www.wiggle.co.uk/lifeline-1-18-15-integrated-headset-with-alloy-cap/?lang=en&curr=GBP&dest=1&sku=5360597730&kpid=5360597730&utm_source=google&utm_term&utm_campaign=UK_PLA_Components&utm_medium=base&utm_content=mkwid%7csdvFHpFIU_dc%7cpcrid%7c67090789262%7cpkw%7c%7cpmt%7c%7cprd%7c5360597730uk
  • redvee
    redvee Posts: 11,922
    Dinyull wrote:
    1) The fork has black plastic clibs for housing the disc brake cables, but there weren't any clips attached to the underside of the downtube. Did your frame come with these, should I speak to PX or is does somewhere sell them?

    I ditched them on my frame and forks and went with cable ties all round.
    Dinyull wrote:
    2) What cables and outers did you use for disc brakes?

    I bought a Jagwire complete cable set off Ebay but you'll need more outer as the outer supplied is only long enough for open runs where you have cable stops on the frame.
    Dinyull wrote:
    3) I was going to order a headset today, and foolishly assumed Planet X would have the information on their website. It is printed on the fork, but that's at home and I'm sat at work. Can anyone remember what size headset is required?

    The Lifeline aheadset from Wiggle mentioned above looks to work, wish I knew about that before I bought my headset from Planet X.
    I've added a signature to prove it is still possible.
  • top_bhoy
    top_bhoy Posts: 1,424
    I'm no expert on headset compatibility but while I was trying to verify the suitability of the Lifeline headset, I observe that the Lifeline is a 45/45 for both upper and lower. Whereas, although still suitable for a 1 1/8" to 1.5" tapered steerer, the Planet-X headset is 45/45 upper and 36/45 lower.
    See here for the FSA:
    http://www.fullspeedahead.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/087_NO_42-CF-ACB.pdf?07a9f4

    Does this mean the Lifeline is incompatible with the LR?
    Click here to view Top_Bhoys Pedal Force:
    Click here to view Top_Bhoys RC2:
  • dinyull
    dinyull Posts: 2,979
    In the customer reviews on wiggle, someone mentions using it with a London Road.
  • graeme_s-2
    graeme_s-2 Posts: 3,382
    Popped a spoke at the hub on the front wheel while under braking on the way home from work today.

    According to my invoice, my wheels are:

    Planet X CX Disc Alloy Clincher Wheelset Black with PX Laser Logo

    Any ideas what spokes are used on these?
  • redvee
    redvee Posts: 11,922
    Can't remember the last time I popped a spoke on a front wheel, have done a few rear spokes given I'm a chunky cyclist :oops:
    I've added a signature to prove it is still possible.
  • graeme_s-2
    graeme_s-2 Posts: 3,382
    Went for a ride with a colleague at lunch time today. Decided to ride along an off road section by myself on the way back that I'd walked along a couple of times this week, so knew it was nice and dry, with just one slightly muddy puddle. Got to a muddy puddle where there hadn't been one yesterday and quickly remembered it had rained last night. Got to what had been a bit of a muddy puddle yesterday to find a quagmire. Made the stupid decision to try and go round it rather than through it, lost traction on a muddy slope and tumbled off my bike (into the hedge rather than the muddy puddle).

    Mainly just feel like an idiot, although I also have a bruise on my shin and a slightly jarred shoulder and wrist. No bike or kit damage.
  • seanorawe
    seanorawe Posts: 950
    She's going back to px again :cry:

    20160625_092426_zpsn7rzq0ra.jpg
    Cube Attain SL Disc
    Giant CRS 2.0
  • dinyull
    dinyull Posts: 2,979
    Top_Bhoy wrote:
    I'm no expert on headset compatibility but while I was trying to verify the suitability of the Lifeline headset, I observe that the Lifeline is a 45/45 for both upper and lower. Whereas, although still suitable for a 1 1/8" to 1.5" tapered steerer, the Planet-X headset is 45/45 upper and 36/45 lower.
    See here for the FSA:
    http://www.fullspeedahead.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/087_NO_42-CF-ACB.pdf?07a9f4

    Does this mean the Lifeline is incompatible with the LR?

    Lifeline is compatible, I fitted mine this weekend.

    Wheels (hopefully it's wheels this time) have arrived this morning so I can now swap over the components from my current steed this weekend and get it built up.
  • PhilPub
    PhilPub Posts: 229
    seanorawe wrote:
    She's going back to px again :cry:

    Streuth! :shock: How did that happen?!
  • seanorawe
    seanorawe Posts: 950
    PhilPub wrote:
    seanorawe wrote:
    She's going back to px again :cry:

    Streuth! :shock: How did that happen?!

    Ive always felt that area was very flexi and noisy, but I assumed it was the flex thats normally associated with Planet x bikes. Going up a bit of a climb I got out of the saddle to put some power down and felt a skip with a loud crack. When I indexed my gears, they would go out as soon as I got on the bike. Then I notices the huge break in the chainstay. Thankfully im not too bad, as I came off the bike when it happened. I broke my little finger.
    Cube Attain SL Disc
    Giant CRS 2.0
  • bigmonka
    bigmonka Posts: 361
    Ouch seanorawe that's one hell of a crack! Are they replacing it for you?!
  • bigmonka
    bigmonka Posts: 361
    Has anyone had bottom bracket issues? I've got a fairly serious creak, but my maintenance skills are a bit limited so I haven't been able to track down where it's coming from, although I think it's the BB.
  • seanorawe
    seanorawe Posts: 950
    Unfortunately finding the source of a creak is not always straight forward. And it's usually not what you think. This is the order of what I do regularly.

    Check pedals and put a bit of oil in the springs.
    Check rear mech is still bolted on tight
    Run the chain backwards and watch it go through the jockey wheels for any stiff links.
    Check saddle bolts and grease if needs be
    Take out saddle post and grease then make sure it's torqued or tightened back in
    Take off wheels and clean any dirt off the frames dropouts.
    Hold wheels by axle and spin to feel for any grind or listen for it. They should be smooth
    Apply a touch of grease on to dropouts and put wheels back on
    Make sure wheels and skewers all sitting flush and where they should be
    If creak is still there you could try cleaning and re greasing the BB. You can watch you tube videos to keep you right but if it's a press fit BB you will need the lbs to do it for you.
    This little mini service keeps my bike running smooth with no noise.
    I also service my headset now and again. Really simple to do and good vid on you tube from the boys at gcn.
    Cube Attain SL Disc
    Giant CRS 2.0
  • seanorawe
    seanorawe Posts: 950
    Cheap saddles are also a big culprit for creaking. I went through a fair amount of cans of wd40 on a cheap saddle before.
    Cube Attain SL Disc
    Giant CRS 2.0
  • bigmonka
    bigmonka Posts: 361
    Thanks a lot Sean that's a really helpful list - I might have to print it and pin it up in the garage!

    I was doing some investigation on the ride to work this morning...
    It starts off silent
    Then a creak starts and seems to get worse
    If I stop pedalling (or back pedal) for even a second then it stops the creak and goes back to being silent
    Repeat above process for the 8miles to work!

    The link to pedalling is what makes me think bottom bracket or freehub. The BB is an SRAM GXP screw-in type, but I think they're cartridge bearings how much useful servicing you can do?
  • graeme_s-2
    graeme_s-2 Posts: 3,382
    The problem with pedalling is it puts more stress on not just the bottom bracket, but on a whole load of other areas that could creak or tick including saddle, seat post, pedals etc.
  • redvee
    redvee Posts: 11,922
    Framesets are £150 for all sizes and colours apart from small black which is £200.
    I've added a signature to prove it is still possible.
  • bigmonka
    bigmonka Posts: 361
    Graeme_S wrote:
    The problem with pedalling is it puts more stress on not just the bottom bracket, but on a whole load of other areas that could creak or tick including saddle, seat post, pedals etc.
    Yeah you're right. I've been trying to narrow it down...
    Swapping the spd pedals to some flats didn't help
    Riding out of the saddle seems to make it slightly worse, so I don't think it's saddle/seat post.

    Maybe I should try stripping down the BB at the weekend and see how it is - it's not something I've done before though!
  • graeme_s-2
    graeme_s-2 Posts: 3,382
    Last time I had what I thought was a bottom bracket issue, it turned out my frame had cracked around the bottom bracket shell. In fact I bought my London Road to replace that bike!
  • dinyull
    dinyull Posts: 2,979
    What size disc's are people running on the rear?

    As a disc noob I'm a little lost. I bought TRP Spyre - 160mm for front and 140mm for rear - and on fitting them tonight the rear rotor doesn't seem big enough.

    Can you adjust the caliper (like I had assumed) or am I doing it all wrong and need 160mm rotor for the rear too?
  • graeme_s-2
    graeme_s-2 Posts: 3,382
    Mine are 160mm front and rear as supplied by PX.

    First disc bike so I can't help with advice on compatibility/adjustment, sorry
  • redvee
    redvee Posts: 11,922
    Graeme_S wrote:
    Mine are 160mm front and rear as supplied by PX.

    First disc bike so I can't help with advice on compatibility/adjustment, sorry

    Ditto.
    I've added a signature to prove it is still possible.
  • seanorawe
    seanorawe Posts: 950
    Graeme_S wrote:
    Last time I had what I thought was a bottom bracket issue, it turned out my frame had cracked around the bottom bracket shell. In fact I bought my London Road to replace that bike!

    All these creak queries sound exactly like the problems I was having, and it was my chainstay hanging on for its life before it snapped :D
    Cube Attain SL Disc
    Giant CRS 2.0
  • bigmonka
    bigmonka Posts: 361
    BigMonka wrote:
    Graeme_S wrote:
    The problem with pedalling is it puts more stress on not just the bottom bracket, but on a whole load of other areas that could creak or tick including saddle, seat post, pedals etc.
    Yeah you're right. I've been trying to narrow it down...
    Swapping the spd pedals to some flats didn't help
    Riding out of the saddle seems to make it slightly worse, so I don't think it's saddle/seat post.

    Maybe I should try stripping down the BB at the weekend and see how it is - it's not something I've done before though!
    As mysteriously as the creak arrived it's now gone again. Which is definitely good news unless it comes back with a vengeance!
  • NeXXus
    NeXXus Posts: 854
    BigMonka wrote:
    BigMonka wrote:
    Graeme_S wrote:
    The problem with pedalling is it puts more stress on not just the bottom bracket, but on a whole load of other areas that could creak or tick including saddle, seat post, pedals etc.
    Yeah you're right. I've been trying to narrow it down...
    Swapping the spd pedals to some flats didn't help
    Riding out of the saddle seems to make it slightly worse, so I don't think it's saddle/seat post.

    Maybe I should try stripping down the BB at the weekend and see how it is - it's not something I've done before though!
    As mysteriously as the creak arrived it's now gone again. Which is definitely good news unless it comes back with a vengeance!
    It'll come back now lol
    And the people bowed and prayed, to the neon god they made.
  • seanorawe
    seanorawe Posts: 950
    So.....

    Bike went back to PX with a snapped chain stay a few weeks ago. I rang for an update yesterday and he could see form the notes that the bike looks set to be swapped out to a new frame. However, the mechanics are slammed with work so could be a while yet. I was cheeky enough to ask for a zesty lime frame to replace the black one, and he said the frame is ordered as a set, so will usually come with a new fork, so looks like they will do it for me. It took a few attempts to get someone really helpful at PX but at least its moving forward now.

    I might have to send a gift card or something as an apology to the mecahinc, the components he takes off my bike are filthy.
    Cube Attain SL Disc
    Giant CRS 2.0
  • bigmonka
    bigmonka Posts: 361
    I'm glad things are finally moving on for you, although it's a bit disappointing that they're putting new customers ahead of fixing significant issues for existing customers - but that kind of sums up the PX customer services experience really.

    My bike is back to creaking :-(
    I now think it's coming from the rear mech or freewheel, I'll get round to having a detailed look at some point when I've finished my more pressing DIY projects round the house!
  • seanorawe
    seanorawe Posts: 950
    BigMonka wrote:
    I'm glad things are finally moving on for you, although it's a bit disappointing that they're putting new customers ahead of fixing significant issues for existing customers - but that kind of sums up the PX customer services experience really.

    My bike is back to creaking :-(
    I now think it's coming from the rear mech or freewheel, I'll get round to having a detailed look at some point when I've finished my more pressing DIY projects round the house!


    Well hopefully its not the same problems I was having.

    Creaking that wouldnt go away

    Rear wheel always coming loose at the QR

    Eventually the chain stay snapped
    Cube Attain SL Disc
    Giant CRS 2.0
  • tangled_metal
    tangled_metal Posts: 4,021
    Well my bike is loosening up at the forks qr and I'm having to tighten it up a lot to stop it coming loose. Reckon it's the wheel bearings so I'll get the lbs to check it out. Also to check the fork alignment. I took a big pothole hit last winter.

    The back week qr came loose a few times but I was a towing a trailer so put it down to the trailer and the qr that came with it. Perhaps get that checked out too in light of Sean's snapped chainstay.

    One thing I noticed, when stood on the bike with brakes on and stamping on the pedals I got the distinct impression it moved the whole bottom bracket over. Now I'd switched to marathons in 622 40 (700x38 I believe). They were the same size as the old tyres but are distinctly fatter. I wondered whether that apparent movement was really happening or just the tyres taking out the force of my pedal motion. It's just that towing the trailer I got the feeling it's not a very stiff bike, quite flexible. That photo of the snapped chainstay got me worried.

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