Planet X London Road

karve

Cheers arlowood - thats some helpful info

redvee

Got my second one built up and christened it today. 105 10sp, BB5s and stock wheels that came off my Forme. Got to do some saddle swapping, this saddle is going on the bike I'll be selling, the green Spoon will be going on this LR and the Spoon from my Tricross will be going on LR No.1

karve

Im keen on a zesty green but I aways de sticker my bikes - are the decals under lacquer or can you get them off?

redvee

karve wrote:

are the decals under lacquer or can you get them off?

Just stroked my bike, which I do on a daily basis :oops: and the decals are under lacquer.

seanorawe

Anyone any idea how I get the chain ring bolt undone from under the crank arm on sram rival?

jonathanpatterson

Evening All

In advance, thanks to everyone who has contributed to the 25 pages so far, I’ve read them all and I have learnt a lot. What I haven’t learnt, however are the answers to some specific questions…so here goes…

My commute is 13 miles each way, I’ve been using a Decathlon road bike in decent weather and an old Scott flat bar Hybrid in bad, but what I want to do is to bring those two ideas together and get a new commuter. I was originally after wider tyre clearance, mudguard provision and general flexibility. The Kaffenback was top of the list BUT as I commute through winter and am running a dynamo hub, the lack of a hole in the front fork to mount the light is a bit of a dealbreaker. So the London Road has moved into prime spot…although I know I may need a disc specific dynamo wheel (Tayloer wheels in Germany helped out previoulsy...)

1) I’m 6’ 2”, and my other bikes are 58cm frames, so I THINK an XL will be best for me? I def don’t want to feel cramped, so I’m a little worried the large might be a bit small...Do poepl feel its a 'roomy' frame?

2) Does the London Road have a bolt space on the rear of the seat stay bridge to bolt the rear mudguard to?, and then also the little bolt ole at the bottom of the seat tube…I am pretty confident it does (because the spec states “full mudguard fittings”) but I just can’t see in any pictures online. I have an existing set of full guards from Wiggle which I’m hoping to use.

3) My BIG question is related to one one that has been raised before. Do I choose the Cable or Hydraulic disc option??? Now, the conventional wisdom is go Hydraulic for the extra £300 so that’s simple enough…also I really don’t know anything about cable discs, so the idea of the potential for constant fettling doesn’t sit THAT well…However, I have another dimension to the question...

Would I be better to go for cable brakes, but then invest in a second set of Fulcrum Racing Sport Wheels (I think I’ll spec it with these originally as well) and some more off-road tyres so I can have more flexibility, more conveniently... Or just suck up the extra month’s saving time, stick with Hydraulic brakes AND buy the extra wheels? Are the cable discs really THAT much hassle, and the Hydraulics THAT much better???

Supplementary question, if I’m buying the bike and wheels, I’d like to get the tyres from PX at the same time, can you suggest the best ones to go for? It looks like the OnOne BSC 33mm is the best value option - I’m not planning on too much off-road, but want the flexibility. A good value cross tyre suggestion much appreciated...

Finally, I’m selling my Hybrid, but with the extra wheels, should I also sell the Mountain Bike I have - I don’t tend to use MTB runs that much, and I would mostly use it more for the *slightly* rougher trails and parks around me, but I reckon the LR would cover that off.

Many questions and thanks for the patience, all help gratefully received….fingers crossed for an Easter weekend discount code? (Bet they won’t have one)

Thanks
M4K

NeXXus

jonathanpatterson wrote:

1) I’m 6’ 2”, and my other bikes are 58cm frames, so I THINK an XL will be best for me? I def don’t want to feel cramped, so I’m a little worried the large might be a bit small...Do poepl feel its a 'roomy' frame?

Not touching this, I ride a size down by default so won't advise and I'm taller than yourself

2) Does the London Road have a bolt space on the rear of the seat stay bridge to bolt the rear mudguard to?, and then also the little bolt ole at the bottom of the seat tube…I am pretty confident it does (because the spec states “full mudguard fittings”) but I just can’t see in any pictures online. I have an existing set of full guards from Wiggle which I’m hoping to use.

Yes to both

3) My BIG question is related to one one that has been raised before. Do I choose the Cable or Hydraulic disc option??? Now, the conventional wisdom is go Hydraulic for the extra £300 so that’s simple enough…also I really don’t know anything about cable discs, so the idea of the potential for constant fettling doesn’t sit THAT well…However, I have another dimension to the question...

Hydro all the way

Supplementary question, if I’m buying the bike and wheels, I’d like to get the tyres from PX at the same time, can you suggest the best ones to go for? It looks like the OnOne BSC 33mm is the best value option - I’m not planning on too much off-road, but want the flexibility. A good value cross tyre suggestion much appreciated...

I use Schwalbe CX Comp, do the job and don't cost the earth

jonathanpatterson

v helpful thank - even if you're not being drawn on sizes

simono5

I'm 6' 2" and ride a large. Perfectly comfortable for me. You'll see a photo of my bike/saddle height on a previous page to give you an idea. I've done 3 x100km rides on it with no issues so comfortable enough.

redvee

jonathanpatterson wrote:

2) Does the London Road have a bolt space on the rear of the seat stay bridge to bolt the rear mudguard to?, and then also the little bolt ole at the bottom of the seat tube…I am pretty confident it does (because the spec states “full mudguard fittings”) but I just can’t see in any pictures online. I have an existing set of full guards from Wiggle which I’m hoping to use.

Yes, though if you're re-using a set of mudguards you might have to drill another hole in the rear guard to mount the bolt and you'll need something to space it off the frame, I used valve nuts from inner tubes.

staffo

redvee wrote:

jonathanpatterson wrote:

2) Does the London Road have a bolt space on the rear of the seat stay bridge to bolt the rear mudguard to?, and then also the little bolt ole at the bottom of the seat tube…I am pretty confident it does (because the spec states “full mudguard fittings”) but I just can’t see in any pictures online. I have an existing set of full guards from Wiggle which I’m hoping to use.

Yes, though if you're re-using a set of mudguards you might have to drill another hole in the rear guard to mount the bolt and you'll need something to space it off the frame, I used valve nuts from inner tubes.

Or you can just bend the bracket 90°.

PhilPub

staffo wrote:

Or you can just bend the bracket 90°.

That's what I did. Doesn't leave any room for adjustment, but it does happen to leave just the right amount of clearance for my set-up with Chromoplastic guards and 32c tyres.



For the chain stay bridge I improvised by using a nut as a spacer.

jonathanpatterson

thanks for the mudguard pix, v helpful. Now just fingers crossed for an easter discount. not counting chickens though as PX havea massive 40% sale on but not seen anything decent yet..

Thanks also for the tyre advice, I think I'll get the Comp CXs and save my self £149 on the spare wheels

seanorawe

I was advised to go for a large because I like a more relaxed upright position and im 5ft 11. For me I find the frame roomey.

ryanshattered

6'1" and on a Large here too. I have long limbs and I had to change to a 120mm stem, moved a medium spacer above the stem and feels right for me now. I think it's roughly a 10cm saddle to bar drop IIRC.
I am also waiting on a setback seatpost as again, long limbs, and I think I will get a more favourable pedalling position by shifting the saddle back a little more.

N0bodyOfTheGoat

Just a thought regarding mudguards, wouldn't SKS Beavertail XLs give you better tyre clearance for a wider rear tyre than the 32C a few posts up with Chromoplastics?

I used Beavertail XLs on my Tricross, using the solid clip to connect to base of the seat post and a zip tie through each slot in the seat stay bracket and then around the stay bridge.

top_bhoy

seanorawe wrote:

I saw the zest lime frame is £149. I could be tempted to buy it and swap the components over from my black frame

Nice price; I'm currently looking at the London Road. Only the blue dragon is £149...the zest lime is £299. This is for a future build project and Planet-x have regular sales. I'm in no hurry for it so I may hold off and see if the zest lime goes back to £149 or preferably (but unlikely) the stealth black also shows up as £149.

paulg567

Ive recently built up an XL Stealth Black LR
Have done very little miles on it and just can't get comfy
Anyone interested in the frame? PM with an offer?

J0nathan

Quick query. I can't seem to get on with the BB7 brakes that came with my LR. They are more or less fine in the dry once they've been calibrated, but that leaves me extremely reluctant to ever remove either wheel. In the wet, it is a different story entirely - the honking noise they generate is head-splitting!!

At first I thought I'd failed to bed the pads in properly, despite following the usual advice. I went to get some organic pads to see if that made a difference and the chap in the bike shop suggested I instead invest in some 'TRP Spyre' calipers instead. Their design means that both pads move inward evenly toward to rotor, rather than an outer pad compressing towards the rotor and pushing it against the inboard pad which is static (as per the design of the BB7s) causing deflection in the rotor which is prone to generating noise.

Just wondered if anyone has done the same or has any experience with these particular calipers, and whether they'd advise the same or suggest otherwise.

Thanks!

tangled_metal

I just use that wet braking noise as a horn for pedestrians on mixed use paths and canal towpaths. Works a treat when they ignore my bell and a loud shout. Makes the ladies out for a walk and natter jump. Mind you they'd never hear anything else they're gossiping so much.

PhilPub

Only had a few squeaks out of my BB7's in the wet but nothing ear-shattering, and generally good performance so no complaints.

Got into full Blue Peter mode this afternoon and fashioned a mud flap for the rear Chromoplastic using a milk carton and some electrical tape. Looks kinda neat I reckon.

ianlash

I've replaced one of my brakes with a TRP because of the noise when braking in the wet. It was easy to install but I can't comment on the noise yet as I haven't been out on it in the wet yet. I have ordered a second.

It looks much nicer though.

redvee

My TRP Hy:Rd's do howl in the rain with the semi metallic pads I use, as do the BB5's on the other LR.

PhilPub wrote:

Got into full Blue Peter mode this afternoon and fashioned a mud flap for the rear Chromoplastic using a milk carton and some electrical tape. Looks kinda neat I reckon.

Been thinking about the front mudflap on my commute LR and wanting to try a carpet tile with the pile facing the wheel. When riding through surface water the tyre flicks up the water which then hits the mudflaps then deflects out to the sides onto my feet which sort of defeats the whole object of a mudflap. In theory, with a carpet tile the water would be absorbed then drain off.
I just need to find an old carpet tile to see if my theory works over the course of a few weeks.

ryanshattered

I think any disc brake is going to howl in the wet. My full hydro ones certainly make a hell of a racket in the wet whilst being totally silent in the dry

PhilPub

redvee wrote:

Been thinking about the front mudflap on my commute LR and wanting to try a carpet tile with the pile facing the wheel. When riding through surface water the tyre flicks up the water which then hits the mudflaps then deflects out to the sides onto my feet which sort of defeats the whole object of a mudflap. In theory, with a carpet tile the water would be absorbed then drain off.
I just need to find an old carpet tile to see if my theory works over the course of a few weeks.

Sounds like an interesting solution. I was getting exactly the same problem with my own home-made mud flap (another milk carton) when it was flapping too close to my toes. So I've modified it with a small section of coat hanger to bring it closer to the front wheel, in the hope that the water gets channelled away without splashing. I've yet to try it out in the wet.

seanorawe

J0nathan wrote:

Quick query. I can't seem to get on with the BB7 brakes that came with my LR. They are more or less fine in the dry once they've been calibrated, but that leaves me extremely reluctant to ever remove either wheel. In the wet, it is a different story entirely - the honking noise they generate is head-splitting!!

I had this problem with the stock pads from PX. Bin them! I bought fairly expensive sintered pads and they are so much better. In the wet they make some noise, but no where near as bad.

J0nathan

Interesting! Which replacement pads did you go for? I assumed that the stock pads are Avid ones?

seanorawe

J0nathan wrote:

Interesting! Which replacement pads did you go for? I assumed that the stock pads are Avid ones?

EBC Gold pads I think they were £20 for 2 sets.

redvee

My London Road took me on a cross border ride and didn't suffer any breakdowns etc

ayjaycee

redvee wrote:

My London Road took me on a cross border ride and didn't suffer any breakdowns etc

If the border in question was the one between Saudi Arabia and Oman in the Empty Quarter, then I'm really impressed. If it was a border on a bit of rough track in a forest somewhere up north, rather less so.