The big LIGHTS thread 2011-2014

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Comments

  • moggy82
    moggy82 Posts: 726
    Psychotext wrote:
    Don't know if they've been posted about, but I just noticed these two new models of CREE XM-L-T6 torch on dealextreme:

    1200 Lumen, 3 Mode, Very Light (79g)
    1200 Lumen, 3 Mode, Stainless Steel (and glow in the dark button)

    They seem to use different lenses / reflectors to others... not entirely sure what's good / bad / best in the world of lenses and reflectors though. :)

    Both of these get VERY hot within minutes (too hot to touch after 3 mins stationary), if you stop riding turn them off, or the LED.s will die. The heat sinking isnt good enough for the LED by a long way sadly. Spec and size looked great initially though.
  • matt581
    matt581 Posts: 219
    Any one tried the BBB headlight set on PLanet x and on-one at the moment, looks good for £85.00

    Was trying to find some reviews but couldn't see any.

    http://www.planet-x-bikes.co.uk/i/q/LIB ... dlight-kit
  • moggy82 wrote:
    Both of these get VERY hot within minutes (too hot to touch after 3 mins stationary), if you stop riding turn them off, or the LED.s will die. The heat sinking isnt good enough for the LED by a long way sadly. Spec and size looked great initially though.
    Yeah, I've got a couple of the slightly bigger ones and they get very hot so I can only imagine what these are like.

    That said, it sort of appeals to me to disappear into darkness when I stop. :twisted:
  • moggy82
    moggy82 Posts: 726
    Psychotext wrote:
    moggy82 wrote:
    Both of these get VERY hot within minutes (too hot to touch after 3 mins stationary), if you stop riding turn them off, or the LED.s will die. The heat sinking isnt good enough for the LED by a long way sadly. Spec and size looked great initially though.
    Yeah, I've got a couple of the slightly bigger ones and they get very hot so I can only imagine what these are like.

    That said, it sort of appeals to me to disappear into darkness when I stop. :twisted:

    Its when you forget and , you suddenly notice a smell! The LED hitting 300•C
  • tank121
    tank121 Posts: 201
    I bought these lights and haven't tested them in total darkness yet.

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/220873945298? ... 1439.l2649


    Would I best returning them to the seller in exchange for this ?

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CREE-XML-T6-Z ... 4aafee8f6f
  • scoobywrx
    scoobywrx Posts: 111
    tank121 wrote:
    I bought these lights and haven't tested them in total darkness yet.

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/220873945298? ... 1439.l2649


    Would I best returning them to the seller in exchange for this ?

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CREE-XML-T6-Z ... 4aafee8f6f
    I won't comment about the lights but the mounts in the picture of the ones you have bought are first class
    kendoddsdadsdogsdead
  • bamba
    bamba Posts: 856
    the top one is about a five quid torch,
    http://www.dealextreme.com/p/c30-flood- ... -aaa-18697
    same as i use at work, i wouldnt even think about any thin that isnt 18650 powerd

    i doubt ant thing with a zoom head on it is going to be water proof,
    All the single cell 18650 torche, ultrafire,fandyfire,candyfire or any other fires will share the same droppin units (led like for like)with a 26.5mm diameter unit , some have a smooth reflector others textured, the switch's are pretty basic, so the only difference is the body which is where the difference in price come from, eg cheap monkey metal barrel to a stainless unit with lot of machining , imo i dont see the point of pay for something to look pretty when you only use out in the dark
  • Jeansy
    Jeansy Posts: 73
    All the single cell 18650 torche, ultrafire,fandyfire,candyfire or any other fires will share the same droppin units (led like for like)with a 26.5mm diameter unit , some have a smooth reflector others textured, the switch's are pretty basic, so the only difference is the body which is where the difference in price come from, eg cheap monkey metal barrel to a stainless unit with lot of machining , imo i dont see the point of pay for something to look pretty when you only use out in the dark

    I disagree with this, there are several different LED pills, some much better than the standard p60. If you label all the 'fire stuff the same then you have never seen a uf980.

    On a side note, Batteries are so important, just tested some of my cheap UF2400 at 1a discharge, lasted only an hour!
  • moggy82
    moggy82 Posts: 726
    Jeansy wrote:
    All the single cell 18650 torche, ultrafire,fandyfire,candyfire or any other fires will share the same droppin units (led like for like)with a 26.5mm diameter unit , some have a smooth reflector others textured, the switch's are pretty basic, so the only difference is the body which is where the difference in price come from, eg cheap monkey metal barrel to a stainless unit with lot of machining , imo i dont see the point of pay for something to look pretty when you only use out in the dark

    I disagree with this, there are several different LED pills, some much better than the standard p60. If you label all the 'fire stuff the same then you have never seen a uf980.

    On a side note, Batteries are so important, just tested some of my cheap UF2400 at 1a discharge, lasted only an hour!

    Yep P60 Drop ins come in a huge difference of qualities. I have had some good and some (my sst-50 one) pretty poor, bad connections all round etc.

    I believe that with the current available LED's this type has a Wattage and therefore a Lumen limit, running a XML/P7/MCE at over 75% capacity will get too hot too quick this is why good XML drop in dont go above 600 Lumen, most rate 510 Lumen. I think DIY would agree with this as he has as much if not more experience with this type of torch. (I have moved to magicshine/magicopy lights now)

    If your going for a XML, id go for a proper light, see the one supersonic links too $27.20? on DX, i have one of these and its brighter than my MJ-808E.

    Chris
  • diy
    diy Posts: 6,473
    The LEDs are the same, but the drivers can be a little different. There are only about 3 or 4 different XM-L P60s available. The uf980 is worth a look if only to lose the sos and strobe function.

    What I would say is that you cannot rely on the published Amps as most of my 501s are between 2-700ma out.
  • Still waiting for my light from dx that was supposed to have been shipped on 21/09/2011, the only thing i received was the extension cable for it, contacted them 5 days ago and didn't get a response to the ticket that was raised but got an email to say i had been refunded, which i haven't :evil: won't be using them again, i opened a dispute with paypal, no reply from them on that either
  • Well just chased my order again, last time they say I had to wait 4 weeks from despatch(it states 14 days on the site) before they they look into it. If I end in a refund scenario then its Lighmalls here I come.
  • souljacker wrote:
    I ordered a light form DX at the end of september, today i received the extension ccable for it in one small package, having looked on the website the light was shipped in two seperate packages, this lead was shipped on 6/10/2001 yet the light was supposedly shipped on 29/09/2011.

    Does this look like the light is lost or will it turn up? anyone had any simlilar experiences with DX?

    My light was ordered from dealextreme on the 23rd and dispatched on the 26th, it arrived yesterday though the tracking still says its in china...
    arrival at transit office of exchange GUANGZHOU 2011-10-07
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    The second one. Better ad, can see exactly what you are getting. More output too.
  • nil1121
    nil1121 Posts: 71
    i have the first one and it is a very good light which was used last friday night to good effect. if you look back though the posts i showed some pictues of the light produced.

    but i must admit that second one does look :D
  • wheezee
    wheezee Posts: 461
    I've been reading about the protected vs the unprotected li-ion cells that we use in these torches (not necessarily a good idea, as a little knowledge is a dangerous thing, and all that).

    It seems that overcharging and over-discharging the unprotected type can result in the batteries exploding, and that "intelligent" chargers and torches are required to shut them down before things get out of hand. My charger lights go green when they're up to capacity, and (hopefully) stop charging, but out on the trail I've been letting them reach the point where they are dimming and auto-cycling through the modes before I've swapped them out.

    I have the 501b torches and a Deal Extreme charger. Am I going to die in a "Mountain biker's head blown off in woods" type story? :shock:
  • Just received my wide angle lens for the magicshine copy light off ebay seller. 4 days from the USA is incredibly fast and it was cheap as chips too. Just a shame that the light it is to be fixed to is still on the way from Hong Kong!
  • simonp123
    simonp123 Posts: 490
    Hi,

    OK I'm sure this sort of thing has been covered before at some point, but the lights threads are hard to find things in now!

    Anyway, I have just got a new light for my bars (previously using an MTE SSC P7 torch), the Magicshine MJ-817. Now I am looking at my helmet light, which is currently an UltraFire WF-501B R2. I did wonder about using the P7 torch instead, but having just compared the 2 across the field in front of my house I find that the 501 has further reach despite the lower output. I am looking for reach more than flood as the MJ-817 will provide more than enough flood.
    I am looking for a little more light from the helmet torch, so am looking at an upgraded drop-in module. I am wondering what is the best way to go to maintain the good throw but brighter? It looks like my choices are an XPG R5, P7 or XML T6, which would best suit for a tight beam with long reach? Anyone experience with these?

    Thanks,

    Simon
  • moggy82
    moggy82 Posts: 726
    Do you mean MJ-816, no such light as a 817!

    For the power you want you would be better off with a normal stlye light, not a Drop in.
    As this allows more power as it should have better heat dissipation.

    However to answer you question a XML LED (T6 or U2) will probably be best. A XPG (R5 or S2) would provide the most throw but most find the slightly larger spot off a XML best.

    This is one option:

    http://www.manafont.com/product_info.ph ... max-p-5178

    and this is a cheaper one but 5 mode:

    http://www.manafont.com/product_info.ph ... max-p-5651
  • diy
    diy Posts: 6,473
    wheezee wrote:

    It seems that overcharging and over-discharging the unprotected type can result in the batteries exploding, and that "intelligent" chargers and torches are required to shut them down before things get out of hand. My charger lights go green when they're up to capacity, and (hopefully) stop charging, but out on the trail I've been letting them reach the point where they are dimming and auto-cycling through the modes before I've swapped them out.

    I have the 501b torches and a Deal Extreme charger. Am I going to die in a "Mountain biker's head blown off in woods" type story? :shock:

    Running Flat

    You should not run them to the point the LED goes dim, it will over-discharge the cells. Remember they are a bit like car batteries - empty still means they have 3.5v in them. You can still suck power out, but you will damage the cell. Get in the habit of checking the voltage after a ride and change before they go below 3.7v ~ after 1 1/2 - 2 1/2 hours

    Charging
    Your charger should switch off once the cells are charged and switch to a monitor charge. Do not rely on this the consequences are not worth the risk. Do not leave your cells charging for more than 4-5 hours unless you are doing a wake up charge on an old cell. In which case you need to rest them after each hour for 5-10 mins.

    You don't need to use protected cells with single cell units like the 501, if you are using quality cells with high load capacity. There is a risk of shorting, which the protection circuit protects, but the protection circuit will often bypass if the cell is wet anyway.

    I don't use protected cells, when I give lights to others I give them protected cells as I am less confident they will follow my advice.
  • diy
    diy Posts: 6,473
    For those considering alternatives to DX, Lightmalls are doing some pretty good deals on 501bs and C8 in XM-L T6 at the moment. Just be careful on the descriptions.

    XM-L T6 C8 £13.29
    XM-L T6 501b £9.36
  • simonp123
    simonp123 Posts: 490
    moggy82 wrote:
    Do you mean MJ-816, no such light as a 817!

    Ah, no sorry, no idea why I put MJ-817 :oops: , it is an MJ-872.
  • 101_North
    101_North Posts: 607
    diy wrote:
    For those considering alternatives to DX, Lightmalls are doing some pretty good deals on 501bs and C8 in XM-L T6 at the moment. Just be careful on the descriptions.

    XM-L T6 C8 £13.29
    XM-L T6 501b £9.36

    Manafont also currently have 5 mode XML 501b's for under £9 delivered:

    http://www.manafont.com/product_info.ph ... ack-p-7639

    101
  • I've seen lightmalls mentioned here a few time, are they reliable then? whats the delivery time?
  • Arrived from DX this morning along with batteries and mounts ; as mentioned previously they are a white light rather than the more yellow "warm" light from lightmalls. Will wait to its dark to see which is better , thing is then have to decide how we split them between the two of us. Other difference to lighmalls is the order of the modes. No messing needed though they all worked first time :)
  • wheezee
    wheezee Posts: 461
    diy wrote:
    Running Flat

    You should not run them to the point the LED goes dim, it will over-discharge the cells. Remember they are a bit like car batteries - empty still means they have 3.5v in them. You can still suck power out, but you will damage the cell. Get in the habit of checking the voltage after a ride and change before they go below 3.7v ~ after 1 1/2 - 2 1/2 hours

    That's good information, thanks. At up to three hours, my rides tend to last longer than the battery charge, which seems to be about two. I need to be more careful, clearly.
  • bamba
    bamba Posts: 856
    any one know how delivery times are on lightmalls compaired to dx ?
  • leaflite
    leaflite Posts: 1,651
    What current does the c8 you linked to (This one:http://www.lightmalls.com/c8-cree-xml-t6-1000-lumen-5-mode-led-flashlight-1-18650) 's driver have? Am i likely to get anywhere close to the 900-1000 lumen claimed output, or will it be similar to the 450 lumen ish from a 501b?

    Thanks