The big LIGHTS thread 2011-2014
Comments
-
Given up on this now after it fell off when the bracket clip broke, it was working perfectly as well0 -
Brilliant mate!I finally got round to making a video showing how to mount the 18650 Flashlights on your bars to turn them in to bike lights using just old inner tube.
I have refined the process a bit since I first started and it works really well.
https://youtu.be/FtAdD7-bux0
I hope its useful.2012 Canyon Nerve AM 8.0x (MTB)
2011 Cannondale CAAD 10 (Road)0 -
I've been using the C&B Seen City Slickers for a couple of months.
Front is great and uses a Hope mount to secure to the bars. Real lumens of 1250 and I'd agree with that as similar output to my original Yinding. Handy option of the pulse mode for traffic and daylight riding, not for dark lanes though. Three light levels, and of course self contained Panasonic batteries.
Rear has two steady and two flash modes. Only mods I've maid are gluing a strip of rubber to the mount to stop it slipping round on the seat post, and a tiny bit of rubber glued to the top edge of the rear of the light as due to it being elastic band mounted, on really bad surfaces it can flex enough for the lamp to hit your seat post.
Impressed with the output, build and compactness of the two lights.
Just ordered some of those rear Zecto copies and a few 'cob' LED lights but with alloy bodies via DX EU.
Meant to add I have the Ding light on order from the Kickstarter project. Latest designs have a lens that's aimed at the road, and of course, the underside LED. This should be a great commuter light once available, rather than an out and out laser blaster.0 -
Might be a daft question but can you charge 18650 cells using a standard Solar storm type charger. They will be in one of the waterproof 4 cell cases. The type that was linked earlier in this thread.0
-
Yes you can, as long as your charger is 8vMight be a daft question but can you charge 18650 cells using a standard Solar storm type charger. They will be in one of the waterproof 4 cell cases. The type that was linked earlier in this thread.0 -
I've been using the C&B Seen City Slickers for a couple of months.
Front is great and uses a Hope mount to secure to the bars. Real lumens of 1250 and I'd agree with that as similar output to my original Yinding. Handy option of the pulse mode for traffic and daylight riding, not for dark lanes though. Three light levels, and of course self contained Panasonic batteries.
Rear has two steady and two flash modes. Only mods I've maid are gluing a strip of rubber to the mount to stop it slipping round on the seat post, and a tiny bit of rubber glued to the top edge of the rear of the light as due to it being elastic band mounted, on really bad surfaces it can flex enough for the lamp to hit your seat post.
Impressed with the output, build and compactness of the two lights.
Just ordered some of those rear Zecto copies and a few 'cob' LED lights but with alloy bodies via DX EU.
Meant to add I have the Ding light on order from the Kickstarter project. Latest designs have a lens that's aimed at the road, and of course, the underside LED. This should be a great commuter light once available, rather than an out and out laser blaster.
I've also been looking at some new lights (all in one front and about five rear lights). Looked at the C and B seen city slicker front light but went for the Fenix BC30 as it had by far the best specs of the bunch (and about £60 to boot). I did also get the C & B seen city slicker rear light, along with a Zectro copy (chinese) and still have another couple to arrive.
The BC30 at 1800 lumen is insanely bright and a good all rounder light. It's semi shaped beam makes it perfect for commuting needs at lower light levels but still makes for a hell of a offroad light at the higher settings.
As for the rear City Slicker. It's got a few problems they need to fix. For a start it's not that bright. On it's lower setting it's beam and brightness are identical to a £6 Planet X Phaart Bleep and most cheap plastic 0.5/1.0 watt flashers. On it's brighter setting it's only slightly brighter. But it's optics mean the light drops off almost completely if you turn the light slightly to the left, right, up or down. This is a very narrow beam light that needs to be aimed directly at the windscreens of advancing cars......
...only you can't due to the worlds worse mount. It points the light down at the ground behind the bike and the whole thing jiggles up and down making a god awful din on your seatpost (heavy light at the end of a thin stalk, held on by a rubber band). You can stick a wedge shaped piece of rubber under the mount to aim the light upwards but this doesn't stop the light rocking and only sits the back edge of the light so close to the post that it smashes into it every time you drop off a pavement or go over a pot hole.
My solution was to use a spare doohickey that comes with Hope handle bar mounts and attach it to a cheap offset clamp with a slightly larger bolt and nut. This sits the light closer to the post so that you can't angle it back if situated above the clamp so you have to flip it upside down so that the head is below the mount and arcing away from the post instead.
That way you can aim the light upwards to get maximum effect. I also put some privacy film over the optics to diffuse the light and give it a wider angle that glows more....
The other selling point of this light was that it was USB rechargeable with a standard CR123 type Li-Ion battery that could be removed (as opposed to a tiny Li-Ion square battery that's soldered to a circuit board.. as with a lot of other USB lights). Why? Because there is no way anybody is going to sit on the side of the road with a Powerbank hooked up to their rear light, waiting for it to recharge when it goes flat. Being able to just pop another Li-Ion battery in it seemed like the better option. So whats the catch?
Well,
1) The USB cover is almost impossible to get off with your fingers (i always have to use a knife to pry the
rubber cover off) so hooking up a powerbank while out and about could prove difficult.
2) You need to completely dismantle the light to get to the battery. This involves taking it off the bar mount (try doing that in the dark without losing something) and removing tiny allen screws from the back of the light with a multi tool (try doing that in the dark without losing at least one of the allen screws). A hinged back panel would of been a far more sensible approach.
So, is it a good light?
I'd say yes.. but only after making some mods and splashing some cash. For £40 though, it doesn't walk all over a £6 phart bleep or any of the other 0.5/1.0 watt generic flashers that are lighter, easier to angle up and take seconds to replace batteries with no tools or dismantling of fiddly components.
Also got the Zectro copy....
This is a very nice light for the price. Very bright, good clip that angles the light up (though i use it on my backpack), automatically clips to belts or straps and has sensible modes. The only down side is low run times due to the small lithium-Ion battery. If you ride four or five hours a week in the dark you'll definately need to recharge it at least once a week. On the bright side, it will run directly off a powerbank while it's charging. So i can hook it up to a long USB lead with my 18650 powerbank on the other end inside my backpack while riding.
Also ordered a 100 lumen Raypal RPL-2263 from Lightmalls....
Something cheap and similar off Ebay...
Mainly because it looks bright is USB and Li-Ion based.
And also a Meilan 50 lumen Smart bike light also off ebay...
which has some interesting ideas built into it. Not just the odd flashing modes but the fact the light has a auto function (turns off in daylight and after the bicycles been stationary for more than two minutes)
As for the Cree...
i was still using this till last week when i got the C & B seen flasher. It's switched itself off twice when i was running it off the AAA holder, then i switched to running it off a single big Li-Ion battery and never had any problems with it since. Four hours a week for almost five months on fast flash without even having to recharge it. So why replace it?..... Not sure to be honest. There is just something about it i don't like. Weather it's the way it looks or the stupid, non angled, mount i couldn't say. It is stupidly bright and floody though (can't fault it on that). I just don't like the way it looks hanging off the back of my bike, if that makes any sense?0 -
Yes you can, as long as your charger is 8vMight be a daft question but can you charge 18650 cells using a standard Solar storm type charger. They will be in one of the waterproof 4 cell cases. The type that was linked earlier in this thread.
Thanks. I will check it tonight!0 -
I modded the C&B rear by heating the mount and then bending it to the right angle. As you've heated the plastic this causes no problem. I get enough run time for the commute. I have a Smart R2 as the wider angle light.
Might look at the privacy film too. I need the light to be removable so have stuck with the elastic band
I've ordered something similar to the Raypal COB LED but it has an alloy body.0 -
Sorry if this has been dealt with before, but I have tried to search the thread...
... I'm looking for a focused, narrow beam light to complement one or more of the standard, cheap, floody xmls I have.
Any suggestions? Preferably cheap lightmalls type bike light rather than torch+mount. I have a couple of excellent headtorches with this type of light but not having much success finding bike lights.0 -
Sorry if this has been dealt with before, but I have tried to search the thread...
... I'm looking for a focused, narrow beam light to complement one or more of the standard, cheap, floody xmls I have.
Any suggestions? Preferably cheap lightmalls type bike light rather than torch+mount. I have a couple of excellent headtorches with this type of light but not having much success finding bike lights.
The spottiest light with separate battery pack i've seen is the old/original SMO reflector magishine. Which i did a comparison test against a Trustfire flood light here.0 -
Thanks for the suggestion. Sorry but I can't work out from your post what to look for - the magicshine lights all seem rather pricey: you reference a "magicshine clone" a couple of posts back from that one, what would I be looking for?Sorry if this has been dealt with before, but I have tried to search the thread...
... I'm looking for a focused, narrow beam light to complement one or more of the standard, cheap, floody xmls I have.
Any suggestions? Preferably cheap lightmalls type bike light rather than torch+mount. I have a couple of excellent headtorches with this type of light but not having much success finding bike lights.
The spottiest light with separate battery pack i've seen is the old/original SMO reflector magishine. Which i did a comparison test against a Trustfire flood light here.0 -
I still can't understand why there isn't a clone of the Ay-ups available?0
-
Thanks for the suggestion. Sorry but I can't work out from your post what to look for - the magicshine lights all seem rather pricey: you reference a "magicshine clone" a couple of posts back from that one, what would I be looking for?Sorry if this has been dealt with before, but I have tried to search the thread...
... I'm looking for a focused, narrow beam light to complement one or more of the standard, cheap, floody xmls I have.
Any suggestions? Preferably cheap lightmalls type bike light rather than torch+mount. I have a couple of excellent headtorches with this type of light but not having much success finding bike lights.
The spottiest light with separate battery pack i've seen is the old/original SMO reflector magishine. Which i did a comparison test against a Trustfire flood light here.
The Clone of the original Magicshine light are pretty common. Particularly on Ebay and places like Lightmalls though the quality of the battery packs vary on the clones compared to the original. You can certainly get smaller, brighter, more powerful lights in the same price bracket but the clone of the original Magicshine, with it's large, smooth, reflector certainly creates one of the spottiest beams out there. Good for range but not so good if you only point it ten feet in front of your bike as it doesn't do much except light up a small section of the road.
Avoid the USB powered ones that have been cropping up lately and make sure it has the smooth (SMO) reflector if you want a spot light and not the dimpled one. And the ones that come with a 8.4v battery tend to be brighter than the 4.2v versions.0 -
Thanks very much, great and genuine respect for your knowledge and helpfulness. Now bought from eBay - should complement the floody double xml 2 that's my main light.0
-
Been messing about with rear lights lately. Just upgrading some of my older AAA powered units for more modern Li-Ion powered, USB rechargeable units. I've done beam shots before of some of my rear lights but thought i'd redo them all again since i can't remember what camera settings i did the originals on (i tend to leave the camera on the same manual setting but the battery goes flat after a couple of months and resets everthing). So here goes.
Lets get the ball rolling with two older AAA powered lights....
Starting with a typical Halfords unit of a few years ago. Less than 10 lumen but considerably brighter than the christmas tree twinkly lights that a lot of people still use, but not up to what can be had these days for a tenner.
Couldn't use that in daylight and probably wouldn't get much attention at night amongst street lights.
Next up, the Planet X Phaart Bleep 0.5/1.0w flasher. A pretty ubiquitous design that a lot of companies seem to do variations of. Around 13/26 lumen (depending on if you have one or both upper and lower 0.5w led's on).
.. a very focused and bright light. But still mainly a night light than a day light. However, even under street lighting this is hard to miss and on dark country lanes, when your the only light source around, it's hard not to see you a mile away. It's only real weakness is it's narrow, shaped beam, which drops off in brightness considerably if you move too far to the left or right. But it certainly leaves you with afterimages in your eye if you make the mistake of staring at it directly....
And onto some USB/Li-Ion lights. Starting with the MeiLan rear light. This light is stated as 50 lumen but isn't a throw light so much as a glow light.....
... despite that it's one of my favourite of the new batch of lights. Solidly made with a sloped body that makes for a very simple mounting design. Powered by a replaceable CR123 sized Li-Ion battery (not sure how you get into it as it's sealed up tighter than a drum and looks quite water proof because of it) it has some interesting features including a ambient light sensor that switches the light off in daylight and a motion detection sensor that powers down the LED's when the bikes stationary for a more than a few minutes (the units still on theres just no illumination) and then springs back to life as soon as you move the bike. You can switch these extra features on and off apparently (i haven't quite figured out how yet as the instructions are terribly translated).
The pics don't do it justice. It's a considerably bright light most motorists would find difficult not to see. I tend to just leave it on on full (no flash) as a running light with a seperate flasher on my backpack. Highly recommended but not for the lumen monkeys, weight weenies or roadies who want tiny, elegant lights.
Aaaaaand next, a 100 lumen cobb light off ebay....
At 100 lumen i'd expect it to be a bit brighter but it's still pretty eye watering when stood behind it. It feels like it's putting out the same level of brightness as the Phaart bleep but in a more widespread flood than a narrow focused beam.
It's a pretty plasticky light that weighs almost nothing with a rubber on/off button that could of been stiffer (so soft you have to press quite firmly for the button to register). It's as tiny as a pinky finger and comes with a really nice mount (quite thick rubber that doesn't feel like it's going to snap when stretching it around the seat post with a easy to angle pivot between the light and the rubber strap). The main weakness of this light seems to be the minute 500mAh battery that won't run it for more than an hour or two on full, non blinking, brightness. So better off used as a flasher or on the 3hr slightly dimmer mode. But for £7 it's still brighter than most rear lights need to be.
And onto the Chinese Zecto copy (this is 100 lumen whereas the original Lezyne model is 20 lumen).......
Small, with an easy to mount design that angles the light upwards for maximum blinding affect as well as being able to clip to belts and straps (i use this on my backpack). At this point your putting out enough light to be seen in daylight, not just night riding. The battery isn't particularly large so your going to have to recharge it most weeks (i ride an hour a night, sometimes more). It's also quite a floody light so quite good at getting you seen from slightly to the sides as well.
Next up... the C & B seen City slicker rear light.
At £40 it's quite an expensive light with a few problems. Notably the terrible mounting system that points the light at the ground behind you and is so focused very little light actually hits motorists. The included mount also wobbles and causes the mount to smash against your seatpost. For this reason, i cobbled together my own mount from that extra doohickey that comes with hope bar mounts and an offset seatclamp from a cheap flasher. I also covered the optics with dimpled privacy film (that stuff you get in rolls from B&Q to cover bathroom windows and shower stalls) to spread out and soften the image (the pic above is WITH the tape, not without).
It uses a big removable Li-Ion CR123 style battery so runtimes are quite good (5hr on full beam) and the USB port cover is pretty watertight (it's actually hard to pull off, even with long finger nails). It's a chunky, full metal heavy light that utlilizes two Cree XM-L2 emitters, so is more for the dedicated commuter who absolutely HAS to be seen, day or night, and doesn't give a monkey f**k about aesthetics or being a weight weenie. I'd recommend the light to anyone who is capable of making the few simple mods it requires to run properly.
And last, but not least, the Cree 3w flasher (seem to recall this being quoted at 150/180 lumen)....
Still quite possibly the brightest, floodiest light i've seen (£10/15). Doesn't try to focus it or control it, just spews it out in every direction. Nobody is going to do a SMIDSY with this. So why replace it? Well, as mentioned elsewhere, there is something about the light that just irks my sense of aesthetics. It's ugly, i don't like the mount that comes with it that points it downards at the ground (it's actually sitting on my bike wheel for the photo) and it isn't USB rechargeable.
Some people have reported the light switching itself off during rides and i experienced this twice, which could of been down to the fact the AAA batteries where getting low or the caddy they sit in was jiggling about inside the light, momentarily breaking connection. When i switched the light to running off a single big Li-Ion battery instead the problem never recurred (in fact it ran on flash for four hours a week for six months without even needing to be recharged). But it's still fugly. It might get dug out for those winter days (it's bright and very watertight) but until i can find a better mount for it it's going back in my light box.
Still got one more cobb light to come from Lightmalls, hope the pics helped.0 -
Does anyone know of an alternative mounting bracket for the Fenix BC30? It fits perfectly on my MTB handlebars but the bracket's just too bulky to fit on the narrower road bike bars and it fouls the brake and gear cables quite badly, so something smaller would be nice, typical! :?0
-
Does anyone know of an alternative mounting bracket for the Fenix BC30? It fits perfectly on my MTB handlebars but the bracket's just too bulky to fit on the narrower road bike bars and it fouls the brake and gear cables quite badly, so something smaller would be nice, typical! :?
Lol. I though that too. The clamp diameter could easily fit around a fork stanchion and even looks oversized on a 31mm bar, let alone a skinnier 25mm bar.0 -
When i switched the light to running off a single big Li-Ion battery instead the problem never recurred
How'd you do this? Home-brew with a soldering iron or an off-the-shelf converter pack?"Mummy Mummy, when will I grow up?"
"Don't be silly son, you're a bloke, you'll never grow up"0 -
Does anyone know of an alternative mounting bracket for the Fenix BC30? It fits perfectly on my MTB handlebars but the bracket's just too bulky to fit on the narrower road bike bars and it fouls the brake and gear cables quite badly, so something smaller would be nice, typical! :?
Lol. I though that too. The clamp diameter could easily fit around a fork stanchion and even looks oversized on a 31mm bar, let alone a skinnier 25mm bar.
As our resident expert and light collector, do you know of any other mounts that might fit? I bought it to use both on and off road and I really don't want to buy a different light just for road use! :oops:0 -
When i switched the light to running off a single big Li-Ion battery instead the problem never recurred
How'd you do this? Home-brew with a soldering iron or an off-the-shelf converter pack?
No conversion necessary. The light is just like an ordinary torch with a big fat tube with a "+" connector at one end and a "-" connector at the other. It's the AAA batteries that require a caddy to fit in the torch (it wires them in series to get 4.5v). Just don't use the caddy and slide a big fat 4.2v Li-Ion battery of the closest dimensions into the tube instead.
The AAA caddy is 21mm wide...
and 52mm long...
You can get 22500 Lithium batteries (rare) that would be a better fit but these aren't rechargeable like Li-Ion. The closest i could find that would fit were some 18500 (18mm wide x 50mm long x 0=round) Li-Ion batteries from Torchy the battery boy on ebay (he had a couple but i went for the ones with the highest capacity).....
slid some bar tape round the edge of the tube to narrow it down a bit and stop the battery rattling about (make sure the tape is above the top lip of the tube as you need to pull on this to get the battery out.. it's wedged in there pretty tight and doesn't move... probably the main reason for the AAA caddy causing the light to switch off). Finally, just popped a simple 1p coin on top to increase the length of the battery for better contact with the tail spring (could use anything conductive but the 1p was a perfect fit inside the raised edges of the bar tape)...
Screw the top cap back on and away you go.....0 -
Thanks for the comprehensive reply. Seen what I think is that light going on Amazon for £15, tempted to get one to complement the Moon Shield 60 I currently run."Mummy Mummy, when will I grow up?"
"Don't be silly son, you're a bloke, you'll never grow up"0 -
Thanks for the comprehensive reply. Seen what I think is that light going on Amazon for £15, tempted to get one to complement the Moon Shield 60 I currently run.
The Moon Shield is a very good light. They both use a Cree XP-E. The only difference is the Moon runs it at 60 lumens and focused to reduce battery consumption on it's smaller battery where as the 3w Cree runs it around 150/180 lumens of a much bigger battery.
Been meaning to try a Moon Shield (i like the fact it has a drain indicator rather than leaving it to guesswork).0 -
Anyone recommend a charger for the magicshine clone battery packs ? The one I got with a light set a few years back seems iffy ?? Just don`t trust it tbh.0
-
Re the amtech light, from my sample size of 2 I'd say stay clear.
My brother had one that stopped working entirely after a few weeks.
I also bought one that lasted a bit longer but not much, multiple problems... First it started randomly turning itself off so I had to keep checking it while on the bike. I solved this by adding a shim between the button and circuit board. Second problem was parasitic discharge of the batteries, so I had to remove the batteries when not on the bike, else next time the batteries would be flat next time I used it. Third problem was it started bouncing off the mount. This I solved by supergluing it to the mount. This worked for a few weeks then the mount itself disintegrated. So now useless.
From my POV, brightness wise the light is great, quality wise it's absolute junk.0 -
Finally - a top notch battery pack with decent Panasonic cells at a reasonable price:
http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S0244420 -
Bored and it's Payday. Not a wallet friendly situation to be in. So... inevitably... i bought some lights.... Lol.
Got a Bontrager Ion 700R to go on my black/white carbon summer mountain bike. Don't tend to use lights with separate battery packs on that bike as it rubs against the expensive frame and the undertube cabling makes it hard to fit one in my preferred position. Since it's a summer bike, when it only gets dark in the late evening, i tend to just strap a 501 style torch to the bar as you don't need much else when it's dry.
Mainly went for this as it colour co-ordinates with the whole bike (black/white). Vanity, i know.....
USB rechargeable with a battery drain indicator, side lights and bar mount. Three things that don't really apply to the average Ultrafire 501/502 torch. The RT version can even be controlled remotely by a ANT+ controller (more useful for people who strap it to their helmet, i imagine).
Got it brand new for almost half the standard retail price. Hasn't turned up yet but i imagine the red card the postman left me on Friday morning was for this. I guess i'll find out tomorrow morning when i pop up to the post office.
The other main bit of splashing out was for another all in one light, the NiteCore EC4S Explorer
Mainly because i wanted something with the newer XHP50 in it and liked the thin, "stack two 18650 batteries on top of each other" approach. This means the torch is no wider than a Ultrafire 501/502 style unit which gives far more options for mounting the light than some of the other XHP torches which are enormously fat.
Normally sell for £80 but managed to get mine for £59 (the XM-L2 version can be picked up for about £35). Unfortunately, this probably isn't going to turn up until sometime in late December/January0 -
Looks awesome Ouija, always nice to have a splurge on something a few notches up quality wise...
Got a package from Gearbest today, shipped by DHL and horror of horrors, had to pay €40 import tax. Well, €30 tax and €10 to DHL for the spuriously called "transaction processing fee", or in plain English, legalised daylight robbery (Id already paid €18 for shipping). Makes my effing blood boil how these firms can just sting you and not be obliged in any way to justify themselves. Value of goods €60 :evil:
Ive recieved tons of stuff from China, always flat rate shipping and have never paid a penny. I vaguely recall something saying that the parcels are often labelled as "gifts" which are exempt from any charges. I guess huge global shippers like DHL arent willing to exploit these loopholes.
Can anyone confirm that? Sorry for thread derailment, but were all ordering our lights from Asia so it may be useful info to know...anyone else had any unexpected charges?0 -
The other main bit of splashing out was for another all in one light, the NiteCore EC4S Explorer
Mainly because i wanted something with the newer XHP50 in it and liked the thin, "stack two 18650 batteries on top of each other" approach. This means the torch is no wider than a Ultrafire 501/502 style unit which gives far more options for mounting the light than some of the other XHP torches which are enormously fat.
Normally sell for £80 but managed to get mine for £59 (the XM-L2 version can be picked up for about £35). Unfortunately, this probably isn't going to turn up until sometime in late December/January
I'm fascinated by that Nitecore light and the XHP50 emitter which I hadn't heard of before now. Now that I've googled around a bit it seems like the XHPs (50 and 70) have had mixed reviews in terms of beam pattern, with either a dark spot or a dark cross in the middle of the hotspot as a result of the quad-die architecture. It'd be good to know if those are present from this light when you get it, or whether they've designed it out e.g. in the reflector somehow. Also, I can't figure out whether XHP50 gives more lumens per watt than XP-L or XM-L2, but it seems like it might do marginally, which makes it worthy of our attention I guess even if it does need at least 2 cells to drive it...0 -
Well, if there is a cross (it's a OP reflector, so i imagine that would get rid of it) there are identical Nitecore packages with XM-L2 (EC4) and MT-G2 (EC4SW). The XM-L2 has only half the brightness and lower run times off the two batteries (1h 30min at 1000 lumen compared to the EC4S and EC4SW's 2h 15min) and the MT-G2 in the EC4SW gives almost the same performance as the XHP50 but without the cross....
0 -
Its a little trick of words according to the press release: XHP-50 is 2,546 lm @ 3A vs the XM-L2 1,052 lm @ 3A. XP-L 1226 @3A
All sounds impressive until you factor in the voltage the XHP-50 is designed to run at 6V/3A or 12V/1.5A (so 20W vs 10W)
Its Lumen/W that are key 134 (for the XHP-50), vs 105 (XM-L2), 123 (for the XP-L)model Watt Lumen Lumen/W base price p/lumen/w XHP70 32 4022 127 £8.23 £0.065 XHP50 19 2546 134 £4.59 £0.034 XP-L 10 1226 123 £3.29 £0.027 XM-L2 10 1052 105 £2.38 £0.023
so... If you are thinking single cell - forget XHP, if you are thinking budget XM-L2 wins
Quad Cores are normally a bit odd beam shape.
0
?wid=1980&fmt=jpg&qlt=50,1&op_usm=0,0,0,0&iccEmbed=0&cache=on,on&bgc=247,247,247)
