The big LIGHTS thread 2011-2014
Comments
-
But if your not thinking single cell?
The XHP and MT-G2 can both put out the same brightness as the XM-L2 while running cooler and drawing less watts (hence the longer run times). At 1000lumen the XM-L2/XP-L are pretty much running as hot as they get (which shortens life span) while the XHP/MT-G are barely ticking over. Those two emitters have exceptionally long life spans to start off with (compared to the XM-L's). I imagine they last even longer if you never ramp them up to their max output.0 -
yeah - I think the 50 has the sweet spot but the MT-G isn't worth a look at 114l/w0
-
I've acquired some 18650 batteries but they are not the button top type I need. I have seen several people recommending adding a blob of solder to enable the batteries to make contact, anyone got a better idea or is this the best way?0
-
Magnets.......0
-
Magnets.......
Then a drop of glue to keep them from moving?0 -
Would they not wedge the battery in a torch and make it hard to get out though?0
-
I've been using two torches - one http://www.dx.com/p/ultrafire-th-t60-ha-ii-xm-lt60-5-mode-1200-lumen-white-led-flashlight-with-strap-1-x-18650-57007#.VlyKqnDfWrU and one 501b with an XML-2 - for four years now. Only ever use them in the winter for commuting 2-3 times a week for 3 hours a trip. This year I reckon they are not as bright, especially the T60. Batteries should be ok because I bought some new ones from Torchy last year and was careful to store them only partially charged over the summer so it can't be that. Is it possible the emitters have degraded at that age, with that kind of use?
I loved this combo cause the T60 threw a good light up the road and the 501 with an op reflector lit a broader area close to front wheel. I don't think the T60 is throwing the same distance now. Unfortunately the T60 emitter is glued in so I can't try a new drop in for a cheap check/replacement.
Any suggestions for replacement to get the same effect from a set up with no external battery? Any advice much appreciated.0 -
Thanks buddy, got some in the post now
0 -
@wishitwasallflat have they got a bluish tint? It could be a lose connection somewhere causing a micro arc, that seriously reduces the driven current.
If you have a DC amp meter you can test the draw and work out if the LED is still sucking the same amps. My guess is - lose connection, crap cells or crap charger.
What voltage are the cells showing fully charged?0 -
Can anyone recommend 18650 batteries for a Solarstorm type box that will have a decent run time. I'm getting really confused with mAh figures and brands. Which will be right for the job and not cost a fortune?0
-
@wishitwasallflat have they got a bluish tint? It could be a lose connection somewhere causing a micro arc, that seriously reduces the driven current.
If you have a DC amp meter you can test the draw and work out if the LED is still sucking the same amps. My guess is - lose connection, crap cells or crap charger.
What voltage are the cells showing fully charged?
Thanks DIY I don't have a meter but I have been thinking of getting one so this might be the nudge I need. Hope it's not cells though as I bought new from Torchy last year. Charger is nitecore intellicharger i4 which is only 3 years old so hopefully it's ok too. I will try to check out your options thanks again.0 -
Can anyone recommend 18650 batteries for a Solarstorm type box that will have a decent run time. I'm getting really confused with mAh figures and brands. Which will be right for the job and not cost a fortune?
NCR18650B from Panasonic 3.4Ah (3400mAh) or if you can find yourself a genuine Lenovo 47+ or 47++ laptop battery or something from Dell then there is a good chance you'll get decent cells in side. the last lenovo pack I demolished had 9 2,7Ah cells in and they seem to give a genuine 2.7Ah and highish load 3A.0 -
Had a few lights to play with this week. For a start my Nitecore EC4S XHP50 torch turned up...
Very nice, very bright.
Couple of things worth noting. For a start, you do need to wrap tape around the batteries just like you would a Ultrafire 501/502 style torch as the two chambers for the batteries are milled just slightly larger and will allow the batteries to buzz inside when strapped to handlebars. Unlike a 501/502 style torch though, this doesn't cause any mode changes as the button is directly connected to the driver, not the tail cap. It's also not a good idea to over wrap the batteries for too tight a fit as you can't push the batteries out from the front like you would a 501/502 torch, due to it's one piece construction.
Also worth noting that you can't use flat topped Panasonic 18650 batteries as the slightly recessed top on them prevents the "+" contact from engaging with the contacts in the torch. Button topped batteries don't pose any problems.
The torch itself has two buttons that do various things depending weather you press them when on or off and for how long.
Rear button (press) (off) = toggles the light on in the last mode (mode memory)
Rear button (press) (on) = toggles the light off
Rear button (Hold) (off) = toggles the light on in dimmest mode (resets mode memory to dim)
Rear button (Hold) (on) = toggles light off and activates the battery charge indicator to flash continually
Front button (press) (off) = momentarily turns on the battery charge indicator (three flashes - full, two flashes - half drained, one flash - drained)
Front button (press) (on) = mode cycle
Front button (Hold) (off) = Toggle light on in brightest mode (resets mode memory to brightest)
Front button (Hold) (on) = Activate hidden flash modes (flash, beacon and SOS)
Also worth noting that the brightness levels up to 1000 lumen are the same irrespective of what make/model of battery you use but the 2000 lumen mode is very dependent on the total amp draw of your 18650 batteries. With cheap Ultrafire batteries the 2000 lumen mode is only fractionally brighter than the 1000 lumen mode, suggesting that the two batteries were unable to meet the amp requirements of the torch (i imagine a XHP50 torch powered by 3x18650 batteries wouldn't struggle in this regard). With some old but better Senybor 2800mAh batteries the jump in brightness was more noticeable. Probably around 6/700 lumen. I would of liked to try the Panasonics but, unfortunately for the reasons mentioned above, they don't work.
However, the torch can run off 4 CR123A primary cells but i don't have any to try unfortunately. Just rechargeable li-ion versions which give out higher voltage and, therefore, probably not suitable.
Not that it really matters as i've been riding around with it all week on the bars of my mountain bike and only really use the 450/1000 lumen mode, which is plenty bright enough, even in the wet.
So... beamshots. Taken from about 20 feet away (it's one of those oversized doors that's about a 3rd bigger than the average house door.. which messes up the perspective a little).
For comparison i thought i'd use a 8.4v twin head, programmable, Yinding/Lightmalls light which puts out around 1600/1800 lumens...
Very similar with a smooth beam pattern and similar output. And compared against a 1800lumen Fenix BC30 i got the other month....
The Fenix BC30 has two freznel upper attachments to the lense that don't interfere with the central spot but take some of the outer penumbra from the top of the beam and divert it downwards, creating a "Keyhole" type beam pattern with a slit of light coming from the central spot down to the front of the bikes tyre. A very wide and floody light (notice how it lights up the lettering on the plaque to the right, whereas the spottier beams from the others don't). This semi-shaped beam allows the BC30 to make better use of the lumens it's throwing out (less is going up into the sky).
And some distance shots.....
All three have soft, wide(ish), spots so tend to encompass the whole front of the building at this distance. The edges of the expanding conical beams hitting the grass closer to the camera create a false hot spot on the grass that's noticeably brighter. You'd think the Nitecore would be more spotty, with it's big, deep, reflector but the Orange Peel coating helps spread it out a lot (probably necessary to prevent dark spots in the central beam that Cree XHP50's tend to create)
And that, as they say, is that.0 -
So the XHP50 is on par with a pair of XM-l2 /XP-Ls?
I see on ebay the market has kicked off with twin XHP50 car headlights - not legal but would be interested to see how good they were. The beam pattern didn't look to great.0 -
It's all just different solutions to the same problem. The Yingding/Lightmall and BC30 achieve their near 2000 lumen output by simply utilizing two XM-L2's fed by a 8.4v battery combination (one internal, one external). The Nitecore does it with a multicore single emitter (XHP-50) running at 6v (the batteries are series wired, giving 8.4v output so i imagine it's stepping down the current to run the XHP-50 in it's 6v mode).
You could stick a 18650 in the bottom chamber and two 16340's in the torches upper chamber and get 12.6v output (same as if you'd used four CR123A primaries) which is something i might test. But again, i have no real need for the 2000 lumen output. Nobody does (not even mountain bikers). My primary reason for getting the torch was the longer runtimes and greater efficiency of running it at 1000 lumens over something like the BC30 or other "2cell" torches.
In fact, the above three lights pretty much cover three of the four main approaches to light design...
Multi-Emitter seperate units
Multi-Emitter combined unit
Multi-Core combined unit
the only one missing is the Multi-Core seperate units, but i'm sure someone will get round to designing XHP50 bike lights with seperate battery packs eventually.0 -
Ouija, you've got a few lights that I'm interested in and I wonder if you can help me decide which one to go for.
Firstly, I presume that the Ion 700 doesn't compare either to the Nitecore or Fenix in terms of light output? Second, how do you mount the Nitecore? Third, if you were me, coming from a Kaidomain C8 with first generation T6, which would you go for?0 -
All sounds impressive until you factor in the voltage the XHP-50 is designed to run at 6V/3A or 12V/1.5A (so 20W vs 10W)
Unless I'm confusing what you're saying, 6V at 3A and 12V at 1.5A are both 18W.
Ah, I probably am thinking about it. Never mind.0 -
Ouija, you've got a few lights that I'm interested in and I wonder if you can help me decide which one to go for.
Firstly, I presume that the Ion 700 doesn't compare either to the Nitecore or Fenix in terms of light output? Second, how do you mount the Nitecore? Third, if you were me, coming from a Kaidomain C8 with first generation T6, which would you go for?
The Nitecore replaces my Trustfire A8 which is a very spotty XM-L T6, not unlike a C8. The only difference being the A8 runs off a big fat 26650 battery...
It's essentially my backup light that i carry in my backpack (used to carry 501/502's but got sick of swapping batteries). Largely because my main bike lights, with seperate battery packs, never get charged more than 70% full to stop them deteriorating. Only problem with that is i sometimes finish work early (anywhere between midnight and 4.00am) and decide to go for a long bike ride home over the moors or through Dalby forest with only a partially charged battery pack, so always need a reasonably long running backup torch that puts out a reasonable brightness. The nitecore easily matches the brightness of the A8, and the run times and is a similarly sized package.
It's still a spot light, but with a softer, wider, more filling light than the A8. Kinda depends where you aim your spot. If you aim it 50ft in front of the bike then a tight spot as time to expand (as in the pic above), but if you only aim it 15/20ft in front of the bike it's still just a little dot on the road that doesn't illuminate much. The OP reflector of the Nitecore widens the spot out a bit. making it more suitable for mid range stuff without compromising it's ability to throw light some distance forwards.....
As for the Ion. It's a great little light, running off a high end 2800mAh cell. Suprisingly bright, largely due to it's more efficient collomated optics (parallel rays, not the scattering rays of a traditional reflector).
However, being so tiny it doesn't really have the runtimes of the larger lights and is really only useful for short commutes. But that's ok as i bought it to go on a black/white carbon summer bike so isn't going to see the sort of extended night riding i do at this time of year, where it's dark going to work and dark coming back and can be anything up to 50 miles depending on weather and inclination.
As for mounting. You can use the tried and tested Universal Adjustable Bicycle Mount...
however, the soft rubber does allow the torch to jiggle and rock slighly on bumps and potholes. My, somewhat ineligant solution is to simply strap it to a railed torch mount (the two rails actually nicely sit in two grooves in the torches nurled surfacing). The trick to this is using good quality electrical tape (not the cheap, thin, stuff that stretches like taffy) and applying a lot of pressure when wrapping it around the torch and mount. The result is rock solid (if a little ugly)......
0 -
Partial charge doesn't stop that: just slows down a little bit. Additionally, full discharge is way more harmful - so IMHO it's unlikely that your usage routine will extend the life of battery...my main bike lights, with seperate battery packs, never get charged more than 70% full to stop them deteriorating.0 -
Yep, I'd agree with that. Better to fully charge them and end up with more capacity after use and brighter lights.
For mounting, I still find this
works well, though I double wrap the body for a snugger fit as per this
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FtAdD7-bux00 -
I'm looking for a new battery pack for my Solarstorm X2. I've read one too many horror stories about charging the battery pack supplied with it.
I'd like the pack to be rubber strap mounted, and be able to put my own Torchy cells into it, which I'll charge by my Nitecore charger.
Looking at this: http://www.lightmalls.com/waterproof-8-4v-4-18650-rechargeable-battery-pack-for-bicycle-lights
The description isn't clear - if anyone has one does it come with batteries, and are they easily removable to replace and then charge with the Nitecore? Any alternatives I should look at?0 -
That's a sealed battery unit. For replaceable batteries, something like this is what people are using:
http://www.lightmalls.com/waterproof-rechargeable-power-bank-shell-2-or-4-pcs-18650-battery-box-for-bike-light-with-dc-usb-dual-ports0 -
That's a sealed battery unit. For replaceable batteries, something like this is what people are using:
http://www.lightmalls.com/waterproof-rechargeable-power-bank-shell-2-or-4-pcs-18650-battery-box-for-bike-light-with-dc-usb-dual-ports
Just had one of these turn up last week and sourced batteries from Torchy on Ebay. Quality of the box is great and its waterproof. Got 4x Panasonic type 3400mha 18650 batteries for £29 which should be more than enough for what I need. All batteries through Torchy have had outputs tested and verified.0 -
KingOfTheTailwind,
Concerning ready-to-use packs, I'd recommend not to buy cheap Chinese stuffs with unknown cells. I've bougt 6-cell battery similar to that in your message: cells were total crap. Was bought to be used as a shell for my 'normal' pack, so no surprise here.
Currently you can buy top-quality Panasonic-based packs on KaiDomain, for example:
http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night-riding/quality-8-4v-6800mah-4-x-ncr18650b-battery-pack-kaidomain-com-reasonable-price-995303.html
http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night-riding/6x-ncr18650b-10200mah-8-4v-pack-999562.html
http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night-riding/2s1p-8-4v-3500mah-battery-pack-kaidomain-999743.html
I've just verified real capacity of this one:
http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S024442
Measured 6448 mAh. To compare, identical (in shape and cells quantity) Chinese noname battery included with Yinding light is 1098 mAh. Go figure...0 -
OK thanks guys.0
-
I need some help to diagnose a light fault.
I have a twin XML light running off a separate 8.4V 4 cell battery pack. Running the light on low power on a fully charged battery, the battery indicator drops from full to medium within a minute, then down to low after a few more minutes. But the battery charger takes only 5 minutes to fully charge it again.
But if I run the light on high power, the battery indicator stays on full for 30 minutes or more.
Am I going to damage the battery if I run it on low power for a long time?0 -
If the battery is capable to work with high load, it definitely won't be damaged by smaller one. It looks to me you just have a faulty indicator... 0
-
Ok. I was thinking that there is some sort of short circuit in the low setting that is causing the voltage to drop. I don't know if that was possible.0
-
Hey guys, I hope a little shameless advertisement isn't against the rules here, but I've designed some genuinely useful mounts for the cheapy chinese CREE LED lights that solves a problem that I'm guessing most of you have had without bodging it. They replace the plastic o-ring mounts (just one screw on the underside) that move around a lot, and mount to a go pro mount, so they're super sturdy. I've been using them a little while now and they work for me.
You can order them from here - they take a week or so to come, I've not managed to batch-produce any yet but it's on the cards. I also have the necessary bits for a vented helmet mount or bar mount if you don't have the gopro gubbins, so drop me a message. They work for a couple of different styles of light (the most popular i've found).
If you have a different type of light, I'll be happy to design and make a couple of mounts for you for free if you can send me the original mount/light.
0
