The big LIGHTS thread 2011-2014
Comments
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Thanks again for the input guys! But moving away from volts and stuff, was out on the trails about 9pm last night and again i was struck at how twilight seems to last much longer in summer...and its generally the worst time i find; too dark to ride without lights, and when you put the lights on they don't really seem to improve visibility over the dim washed out light of dusk hours. Id normally wait til total darkness but that takes forever in summer and i don't really wanna be out until 11pm! In winter i notice there's good visibility until 4pm or so, stop for a quick cuppa and bam 20 mins later its pitch black...
Anyone else notice the same re: twilight?0 -
I have a little £1ish shop flasher on the bars an seat post for that as its more about being seen. But also high contrast lenses help.
Some are so good you don't realise how dark it is when you take them off.0 -
Looks like the dark nights are coming round again. My Trustfire TR D002 has done its job but is now on the batteries on on their last legs (and I am not that keen on the remote switch).
Are there any 'better' flood type lights around that anyone could suggest?Remember Rule #50 -
Also interested in what's out there with a decent spread of light at the moment. Doesn't have to be dirt cheap (But obviously preferred!) Anyone got experience with these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/161473858366?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
or I am toying with just getting a MTB batteries luminator thing. Fair bit more but I've only heard good stuff about them
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Looks like the dark nights are coming round again. My Trustfire TR D002 has done its job but is now on the batteries on on their last legs (and I am not that keen on the remote switch).
Are there any 'better' flood type lights around that anyone could suggest?
These are quite good. Very similar to the Luminator in beam pattern and brightness (due to the collomated lense) and completely programmable. By which i mean you can set what brightness levels you want the four modes to be. Often advertised as having a "3 mode" (low/medium/high) and a "10 mode" option. In fact, the the "10 mode" option is the programming mode (which a lot of the comments left by people seem to suggest they are unaware of). Even the flash mode is programmable.
In operation it's simply a case of tapping the button to bring the light on (low mode) and then repeatedly tapping to cycle through medium and high and back to low again (no FLASH or OFF in the normal cycle through the modes). Though, being programmable, you could change the order in which you go through the settings (high to low, instead of low to high, for instance). Switching the light off is simply a case of holding the button until the light goes off and immediately letting go (if you don't you'll go into programming mode). Activating flash is simply a case of holding the button when the light is switched off (comes on and flashes at the brightness level you've set). The flash itself is quite a sedate blinking flash rather than the manic strobe of other lights so not that annoying to motorists.
Programming the light is simple as can be. Simply switch the light on and cycle through to the setting you want to change (low mode, for instance) and then press and hold the button and keep holding the button till the light goes out and back on again. The button switches from green to amber to let you know your in programming mode. Tap the button repeatedly to go through it's ten brightness settings till you find one you like and then press and keep holding the button again till the light switches off and back on again and the button goes back to green. And that's it, you've set the new brightness level for the low mode. You can do the same with medium, high or flash mode by following the same steps when in those modes.
I often set the modes to brightnesses 1, 3 and 5 when commuting about town as you don't need 2000 lumen of light in suburban areas. When out and about in the woods i set them to 2, 6 and 9 instead (which only take 20 seconds and can be done while your riding). With no remote switch i simply sit the light next to my right grip so i can tap the button on the back with my thumb whilst still holding on to the grip (though i'd advise putting some double sided sticky tape under the base of the mount to stop it rotating on the bars from overly aggressive pressing).
The link above is for the head cap only, though you can get the light with a battery pack too from the same site (other sites have lights that are similar to this and use the same casing but aren't necessarily the same light internally).
And on the subject of battery packs, as mentioned by others, remember not to leave a lithium-ion pack charged at 100% charge as this will seriously cause the pack to lose capacity over time. Leave it at 70% charge when not in use and only charge it to 100% charge immediately before you plan to use it. If you need something to help you know how much charge your pack has then buy something like this
and make sure you don't go above 3 green lights except when your immediately planning on using the light.0 -
XP-L seems to have gone mainstream as the main XM-L2 refresh, prices are dropping, but there doesn't seem to be anything new on the market.
Personally if you are running XM-L2 or even XM-L U2, I wouldn't upgrade to XP-L, its only fractionally better and a good 30% more expensive.
As always the power supply and driver should be the main consideration when purchasing. You could have 5 XP-L LEDs running off a rubbish driver connected to poor quality cells and its just a waste of LEDs.
So as a general guide:
Cells - anything claiming more than 3Ah per 18650 - extreme caution. Panasonic, LG, samsung and one or two of the others are still best and 2.8 to 3.2Ah is about the max.
Driver needs to be 1.5A min per LED ideally 2-2.5A is best optimisation for LED.
Budget for at least two lights. Flexibility of position and no single point of failure trump LED count any day.0 -
Ace I'll get my self one. Are Lightmalls generally OK, I've never ordered from them before.
It looks the same as the 'Yinding' and I am guessing Gemini Lights Duo use the same casing.
Andy.0 -
Looks like the dark nights are coming round again. My Trustfire TR D002 has done its job but is now on the batteries on on their last legs (and I am not that keen on the remote switch).
Are there any 'better' flood type lights around that anyone could suggest?
These are quite good. Very similar to the Luminator in beam pattern and brightness (due to the collomated lense) and completely programmable. By which i mean you can set what brightness levels you want the four modes to be. Often advertised as having a "3 mode" (low/medium/high) and a "10 mode" option. In fact, the the "10 mode" option is the programming mode (which a lot of the comments left by people seem to suggest they are unaware of). Even the flash mode is programmable.
In operation it's simply a case of tapping the button to bring the light on (low mode) and then repeatedly tapping to cycle through medium and high and back to low again (no FLASH or OFF in the normal cycle through the modes). Though, being programmable, you could change the order in which you go through the settings (high to low, instead of low to high, for instance). Switching the light off is simply a case of holding the button until the light goes off and immediately letting go (if you don't you'll go into programming mode). Activating flash is simply a case of holding the button when the light is switched off (comes on and flashes at the brightness level you've set). The flash itself is quite a sedate blinking flash rather than the manic strobe of other lights so not that annoying to motorists.
Programming the light is simple as can be. Simply switch the light on and cycle through to the setting you want to change (low mode, for instance) and then press and hold the button and keep holding the button till the light goes out and back on again. The button switches from green to amber to let you know your in programming mode. Tap the button repeatedly to go through it's ten brightness settings till you find one you like and then press and keep holding the button again till the light switches off and back on again and the button goes back to green. And that's it, you've set the new brightness level for the low mode. You can do the same with medium, high or flash mode by following the same steps when in those modes.
I often set the modes to brightnesses 1, 3 and 5 when commuting about town as you don't need 2000 lumen of light in suburban areas. When out and about in the woods i set them to 2, 6 and 9 instead (which only take 20 seconds and can be done while your riding). With no remote switch i simply sit the light next to my right grip so i can tap the button on the back with my thumb whilst still holding on to the grip (though i'd advise putting some double sided sticky tape under the base of the mount to stop it rotating on the bars from overly aggressive pressing).
The link above is for the head cap only, though you can get the light with a battery pack too from the same site (other sites have lights that are similar to this and use the same casing but aren't necessarily the same light internally).
And on the subject of battery packs, as mentioned by others, remember not to leave a lithium-ion pack charged at 100% charge as this will seriously cause the pack to lose capacity over time. Leave it at 70% charge when not in use and only charge it to 100% charge immediately before you plan to use it. If you need something to help you know how much charge your pack has then buy something like this
and make sure you don't go above 3 green lights except when your immediately planning on using the light.
Fantastic! Thank you! I will get myself one ordered and hopefully it will be here before the winter...
On the subject of battery packs can you recommend any goof 4 cell packs that will work well with that light. There are so many options and I don't really know which ones I can trust. I have used Torchy in the past for my cells for my Torches but I don't think he sells any packs so to speak.
Thanks again for your advice, it is much appreciated.Remember Rule #50 -
Torchy has a 6 cell listed on his eBay site. I emailed him (through eBay) and he sorted me out with a 4 cell in a hard plastic case. It was about 30 or 35 quid a year or so ago.
It is pictured in a glass of water with some of his light packages. No complaints with mine.
MTB batteries is another recommended option.0 -
8cell on torchys eBay:
http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemDescV4&item=301695318135&category=22689&pm=1&ds=0&t=1439847803343
I emailed him about the one sold with tjis: http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemDescV4&item=291540582836&category=22689&pm=1&ds=0&t=1439847961394
Although if you have cells and charger you could use one of these
http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Waterproof-4x18650-Battery-Storage-Case-Box-Holder-For-Bike-LED-Light-Hoc-UK-/371310143867?nav=SEARCH0 -
Ace I'll get my self one. Are Lightmalls generally OK, I've never ordered from them before.
It looks the same as the 'Yinding' and I am guessing Gemini Lights Duo use the same casing.
Andy.
I've put 3 or 4 orders with them now - always for 501bs. General rule is don't buy batteries from china, they get stuck in transit due to their fire risk. A couple of 5-10 quid lights wont attract any customs/vat either - take around 2-3 weeks typically.
Now is the time to order, 6-8 weeks time it will be too late.
my experience:
good drivers (2.2 -2.5A), good finish, reasonable assembly and CHEAP
6 quid for an 800 lumen light.
A couple on here have had problems with LM though.0 -
Got a 2 cell battery holder to go with my 4 cell holder.
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Cheers - I have a good charger and cells for my torches (used at work too you see) so a case + cells would be a good way to go I think.
Does anyone know if it is easy enough to remove the USB charging part of the cable or if there is one without this on DX or LM - I have tried searching but cannot find anything specific enough.
Mark__gti = where did you get your cases from?
Cheers.Remember Rule #50 -
Cheers - I have a good charger and cells for my torches (used at work too you see) so a case + cells would be a good way to go I think.
Does anyone know if it is easy enough to remove the USB charging part of the cable or if there is one without this on DX or LM - I have tried searching but cannot find anything specific enough.
Mark__gti = where did you get your cases from?
Cheers.
The 4 cell pack is the old solarstorm/pannovo style case without the usb cable.(Don't think you can get it anymore)
The 2 cell is a Fenix BA4C, it comes with a male connector so you have to remove it and solder in a new female one.0 -
Yes, essentially you'll need to remove two screws to open the lid, and resolder the cable. Some pictures of disassembled box (and additional information about disabling electronic part of USB output) in my review on MTBR:Does anyone know if it is easy enough to remove the USB charging part of the cable
http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night-riding/review-new-solarstorm-2s2p-8-4v-water-resistant-4-x-18650-battery-case-bicyc-943638-6.html#post117901100 -
Anyone bought one of these? USB rechargeable T6 torch?
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=371331394301&alt=web0 -
So after two weeks of waiting everything turned up at once!
I ordered the 2xCree XM-L2 2500-Lumen unit from Light Malls (£10.75) and a Fluxient 6600mAh 7.4v battery from Torchy (£34.99) and a UK charger from Torchy too (£8.99). All in including shipping less than £60.
First impressions of the light are good - the unit is smaller than I though - and I really like the way the (programmable) beam sequence is low, medium, high, low, medium....no entering into SUPER STROBE MODE like some of my other lights, so should make using the light a lot easier.
I will get some beam pics up when I have had chance to use it properly.
Thanks again Ouija!!!Remember Rule #50 -
New mount arrived for my light today
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Just need to order one of these so i can mount it under my Garmin
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[url=http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=19690235#p19690235]KingOfTheTailwind[/url] wrote:Anyone bought one of these? USB rechargeable T6 torch?
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=371331394301&alt=web
Its not clear if it includes a battery. If not you might as well get a separate 18650 power bank based charger for a 5er. and an XM-l2 or XP-L based light for under a 10er.
XM-L v1 T6 is a couple of years old now.0 -
For a while I've been building my own lights with single emitters.
I've been driving these, generally XM-L emitters with DX 4.2v drivers using AMC7135 chips. Like this http://www.dx.com/p/1400ma-constant-current-regulated-led-driver-circuit-board-module-3-4-5v-127685#.Vei-tflViko By removing some chips and connecting drivers in parallel I can get anywhere between 350ma and 2800ma. I've always driven the lights with 18650 cells connected in parallel. This setup has always been reliable (and cheap) with very few failures.
I always understood that drivers ran most efficiently when Vin was close to Vout.
What's the reason why most single emitter lamps run with 7.4 Vin?
Am I missing something?Cotic Soul 26 inch. Whyte T1300 -
I think this is a legacy thing that has more to do with charge circuits for 2S2P configs than the optimal voltage for the driver. The vast majority of my lights are 3.7-4.2 input voltage, though I have a few that can go to 18v.
There may be a cable resistance argument for the higher voltage.0 -
The vast majority of my lights are 3.7-4.2 input voltage,
That'll do me cocker.Cotic Soul 26 inch. Whyte T1300 -
There may be a cable resistance argument for the higher voltage.
+1
Attach a remote switch to a 4.2v 501/502 style torch and watch the brightness drop noticeably. Run one off an external battery (4.2v) with a long lead and they never run as bright as they do when powered directly off a internal 18560 battery making direct contact with the springs (done both).0 -
mind you you can play that to your advantage for a direct drive set-up.0
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Got a 2 cell battery holder to go with my 4 cell holder.
Where did you get the 2 x 18650 from?Cotic Soul 26 inch. Whyte T1300 -
There may be a cable resistance argument for the higher voltage.
+1
Attach a remote switch to a 4.2v 501/502 style torch and watch the brightness drop noticeably. Run one off an external battery (4.2v) with a long lead and they never run as bright as they do when powered directly off a internal 18560 battery making direct contact with the springs (done both).
Agree that the voltage drop will be greater for 4.2v but using correctly sized wire (I use 0.5mm2) and keeping wire battery to lamp distances < 500mm, we are probably talking of a voltage drop of <1%. When you look at efficiency of the drivers this represents plus nowt and minus bugger all for me.
Interestingly, what voltage drop were you getting with the 501/502 remote? I've been considering looking at one.Cotic Soul 26 inch. Whyte T1300 -
No idea what the voltage drop was. Just a standard remote switch for a 501/502 torch....
the original pressure switch removed and replaced with a jack input then connected up to a latching switch .
But even with the original pressure switch there is a noticeable drop in brightness when you compare two identical torches side by side.0 -
Could anyone recommend a replacement battery pack for my magicshine mj-872? I think the original was on its way out at the end of the last year so it is time to get organised for this year's evening rides.
Are there better/cheaper options than the replacement Magicshine MJ-6038 7.4V 4.4Ah
Thanks0 -
Getting close to that time of year again...
A lot of time and energy is spent discussing headlights but is there any recomendation for tail lights for commuting use?
From a few pages back I saw this a few months ago. My brother actually bought one and it only lasted a few weeks (not sure what happened other than it no longer switches on, he's not very technical).
I'm in Glasgow and want something that survives through the winter (i.e. must be torrent proof).
I did come across a review of this rear light but the mount seems a bit poor for the price. Anyone offer some alternatives?0 -
How about one if these sets just for the awesome rear light
http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-Nitelights-Bike-Light-Commuter-Combo-FREE-DELIVERY-19605-/151793117874?nav=SEARCH
It's only a 2 cell battery and the front is only 450lumens. The UK charger is worth £8 on its own, you get an extension cable and a splitter cable. The rear isn't 500 lumens, that's impossible with the red LEDs inside, probably about 200lumens. It has 2 red LEDs behind a red lens, don't ask why it's like that but it seems to diffuse the light a bit more
[img][/img]http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NDM2WDU5NQ==/z/3a0AAOxy7odR5SqB/$(KGrHqZHJFEFHPuGlB8gBR5SqBNZP!~~60_3.JPG[IMG][/img]0
