Boardman CX Owners Thread

koontz

Ok managed to get the top cap and hex bolt out and have tried to install it properly, but when I turn the hex bolt the top cap starts moving again and I have the same problem in that the bottom bung part fall out, is this because the metal sleeve is to loose it certainly goes in easier than before what am I doing wrong because this is really starting to piss me off.

Ouija

First thing to do is put the top cap and small screw that comes with it away (which is all part of the headset assembly anyway, not the bung). You only need to focus on getting the bung in and expanded. To do this take the three parts and assemble as in the Planet X pic so that you have the top part of the bung (with the big hollow screw with thread on the outside) screwed slightly into the bottom end of the bung and the metal sleeve sandwiched between the two. If done correctly, the metal sleeve should be part way down the tapering cone section on the bottom part of the bung. On the Planet X one, the tapering part is on the top piece of the bung and the metal sleeve sits on the narrowest part. But other than that slight difference between the two bungs yours should look the same. When you bring both ends of the bung closer together the sleeve should ride up to the wider section of that cone shaped end, forcing the sleeve outwards until it presses against the sides of the steerer. The tapering end of the bung SHOULD NOT disappear all the way into the metal sleeve. If it does, the inside diameter of the steerer is too wide for the bung (maybe your using a bung designed for a 1" steerer, instead of a 1 1/8" steerer).

The next step is to manually widen the bung slightly so that it only just slides into the steerer tube but gets a little bit of purchase on the sides. Do this by simply screwing the bottom part of the bung tighter until you get it to the right width. Failure to do this before putting the bung in will just result in the bung spinning around and around in the steerer as you try to expand it via the big hex bolt hole in it's top. Get it to the right width beforehand and you should have to hammer it down into the steerer with the palm of your hand.

Next, you expand the bung. This usually entails using the next size up allen key than the one that you use on your top cap (can't remember the sizes of the top of my head). If you look where the smaller screw from the top cap goes into the top of the bung you should see a hexagonal depression surrounding the hole. Put the big hex key in there and turn. This should spin the top part of the bung so that the bottom part starts to be brought closer towards it, expanding the metal sleeve as it slides up the tapering section of the bottom part, forcing the sleeve to get wider and wider. Make sure you get it good and tight and that you can't simply pull the whole bung out with your fingers.

Next, put your stem on and make sure there is a sizeable gap between the top of the bung and the top of the stem (about 5mm or more) or you won't have enough clearance to preload the bearings (it'll also cause other problems).

Now comes the test of truth. Put the top cap on and insert the smaller hex bolt through it's center and tighten. If everythings gone well, tightening the top cap bolt should pull the bung AND steerer closer to the top cap, preloading the headset bearings. No different than a star nut.

If things haven't gone well all that will happen is that the bung will slide up the sides of the steerer (not enough grip on the sides) until the top of the bung makes contact with the bottom of the top cap. If this happens and you keep tightening the top cap bolt all that will happen is that the top part of the bung will start to spin (since the top cap bolt is screwed all the way in and can't go any further) causing the bottom part of the bung to screw itself closer to the top part of the bung, possibly expanding the bung a little bit more. However, having the bung expand only after it's been dragged up the steerer to touch the top cap will prevent you from ever preloading the bearings and what's more will most likely cause the top cap screw to stick tight inside the top of the bung. So, when you try to unscrew the top cap bolt to see why things aren't working, the whole top of the bung spins with the top cap bolt, causing the bottom part of the bung to unscrew itself off the end of the bungs lower threads and drop away into your fork. All your left with is a bit rattling around the bottom of your steerer, a detached metal sleeve stuck to the sides of the steerer and the top cap and top half of the bung stuck together (sound familiar).

If you just can't seem to get the damn bung to get any real purchase on the sides of the steerer so that fitting and tightening the top cap always slides the bung up to meet it and starts it spinning then simply take some spare innertube rubber and put it around the metal sleeve before fitting to help it get a better purchase on the sides (even just cutting a balloon in half and sliding it over the lower half of the bung can do the trick in some cases) .

koontz

Ok I have managed to install the bung properly, didnt realize you had to tighten the bung before putting the topcap on, anyway the problem I now have is there is a LOT of play in the forks they move side to side and forward and backwords.During the last day or so I have had the frame off the forks as well as the handlebars so maybe something is loose, the bottom of the headdset i.e just below the spacers are a metal 'clip' that has a gap in it then the bearings and then a bearing cover all these have been of the bike, hope this is the right order, the bottom half of the headset hasnt been touched. I can see a trip to evans coming on, never has this problem on other bike, all this just trying to change the damn stem round.

Ouija

That metal "clip" is a compression ring that is supposed to be pressed into the headset so that it sits between the bearing inner and steerer tube and stops the tube wobbling about. Typically, the bearing cover is supposed to press down on that clip so that it sinks into the headset and compresses but maybe it's not for some reason (haven't got it upside down, have you?).

And yes, all headset bungs are meant to be expanded before the top cap goes anywhere near it. Be surprised how many people think screwing the top cap in does it (which it sorta will..... but only after it's been dragged halfway out of the steerer).

koontz

Ouija I want to thank you for all your help I have now sorted it. Yes Not only did I have the bearing upside down but also in the wrong order I had the clip then the bearing, I turned it round and it instantly was better but not perfect so i took the bung out after insatlling the headset the right way round and it now is smooth without any play, At least I have learnt how to install the headset now if this happens again many thanks.

oldbazza

Konntz,if it's any consolation I've just had a similar performance with my Planet X as well :roll: .

Viking2136

bigmul wrote:

I actually used the CX for a cyclocross race tonight :-)
Bad tyre choice (Conti Cyclocross Speed) but great fun!

why were they so bad? Ive been using them through the Spring on muddy paths and over some fields expecting them to be all over the place but they felt quite solid - surprisingly

Muzzledoctor

By the way, if you're looking for touch up paint, I went to my local Halfords and if you catch the right person at the right time they can mix you up some paint to match the frame. I wasn't so lucky but found an ok match to the colour (Peugeot grey of some shade) which is a little light but ok.

Edit - this is for the 2012/3 CX Team btw. I'm rebuilding it with an Alfine 8-speed hub and while just a frameset I thought I'd give it some TLC.

koontz

Just been out on bike, its been 3 weeks since I last got on due to 'things', weather ect, anyway I have always felt a little stretched out on the cx team, its a medium, im 5/9 ish short legs big torso, would a smaller stem help say a 90mm?, the medium comes with 100mm right?. Then again it could just be that I am about as supple as a concrete block.

superfly35

hey lads,

I am thinking about getting a CX comp 2014 for commuting, the trip is 40 km return.
The price is really good about €650 (£520).

I am wondering the following :
- Is the frame solid ? Or do they crack easily ?
- I am heavy about 19 stone, and I wonder if you think the wheel will handle the weight ?

I would like to do a bit of cycle for fitness and I think it could be nice to go to work.
I did it few time on a mountain bike and it was fine, just a bit tiring as it is not made for it.

I have been into few local bike cycle shop and they all are talking custom wheel and more expensive bike.
I personally are not going to do any competition I just want a nice back to go to work and back like a tourer bike really plain and simple.

Do you think it will be a good choice ?

bigmul

Viking2136 wrote:

bigmul wrote:

I actually used the CX for a cyclocross race tonight :-)
Bad tyre choice (Conti Cyclocross Speed) but great fun!

why were they so bad? Ive been using them through the Spring on muddy paths and over some fields expecting them to be all over the place but they felt quite solid - surprisingly

Bad because of conditions that night. There were some off camber sections which were pretty muddy and there just wasn't enough grip on the tyres. They're fine for other riding, but on the day they just weren't the right choice is all.

bigmul

For those that have new wheels, I wondered if you put knobblies on the lighter set or kept the light wheels for the road?

Reason for asking, just ordered (again) some Kinesis CX disc wheels, and while I have a roadie, wasn't sure if the light wheels would be best with commuting tyres or knobblies for off road proper...wondered what the general consensus was and what others have done?

antsmithmk

bigmul wrote:

For those that have new wheels, I wondered if you put knobblies on the lighter set or kept the light wheels for the road?

Reason for asking, just ordered (again) some Kinesis CX disc wheels, and while I have a roadie, wasn't sure if the light wheels would be best with commuting tyres or knobblies for off road proper...wondered what the general consensus was and what others have done?

I've got 3 sets of wheels for mine...

Original wheels are a home for spiders in the garage.

Kinesis Crosslights have 33mm mud shifting tyres on for racing.
3rd set are 38mm carbon rimmed Chinese clinchers with GP 4 seasons shod for winter / wet riding.... It does look pretty badass with semi aero wheels on it!

antsmithmk

superfly35 wrote:

hey lads,

I am thinking about getting a CX comp 2014 for commuting, the trip is 40 km return.
The price is really good about €650 (£520).

I am wondering the following :
- Is the frame solid ? Or do they crack easily ?
- I am heavy about 19 stone, and I wonder if you think the wheel will handle the weight ?

I would like to do a bit of cycle for fitness and I think it could be nice to go to work.
I did it few time on a mountain bike and it was fine, just a bit tiring as it is not made for it.

I have been into few local bike cycle shop and they all are talking custom wheel and more expensive bike.
I personally are not going to do any competition I just want a nice back to go to work and back like a tourer bike really plain and simple.

Do you think it will be a good choice ?

I think the comp would be a great choice for you. The frame is solid.

Don't forget the british cycling discount, the quidco cash back and wait till halfords do a 20% off flash sale! Should be able to come in under 500 I think....

koontz

bigmul wrote:

For those that have new wheels, I wondered if you put knobblies on the lighter set or kept the light wheels for the road?

Reason for asking, just ordered (again) some Kinesis CX disc wheels, and while I have a roadie, wasn't sure if the light wheels would be best with commuting tyres or knobblies for off road proper...wondered what the general consensus was and what others have done?

Dont forget your going to have to take of the cassette or get another one each time you change wheels. Also what price did you get the kinesis v3 for, I have been podering getting these for sometime but not sure I can justify £250.00 for wheels.

bigmul

I think wheels were £263 from Wiggle. Ordered an Ultegra 6700 12-30 cassette at same time.

Kimble

hi Superfly35

if commuting I would recommend possibly getting a 2012 cx team from ebay of hardly used as has eyelets for mudguards which prove very handy for commuting.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Boardman-CX-Team-18-Inch-Cyclocross-Racer-Bike-Hybrid-/221526578950?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&hash=item3394035706

something like this but guessing this might be a bit small? the team has better spec too so parts should last a bit longer..

either CX frame / wheels etc will be fine and strong for your weight. I have a similar commute and it is a reliable companion for the commute. and has helped me shed about a stone and a half lately. Would recommend getting some 25mm road tyres for it though. I use 25mm gatorskins and suffer very few punctures.

bigmul

Got my stash this week, so popped out for a shakedown ride tonight. Now have Kinesis CX Disc wheels, Schwalbe CX pro 30mm tyres, BB7 brakes and removed the secondary levers. Already changed the stem, seat post and saddle before, oh and front mech!

Rides pretty quick now :-)

koontz

So its basically a different bike , I have changed the rear brake to bb7 and the front mech to sram apex, how much faster is it with the kinesis wheels, Im nearly ready to bite the bullet and get some.

bigmul

I didn't measure the weight out of the box, however rides are on strava. Felt quicker overall - so much so that I wondered if I could have just done with the wheels and 23c tyres instead of a road bike too. Even the 30c knobblies seemed quick on the roads too.

Viking2136

now you've done it Bigmul! - new wheels ordered!!!!!!! Now ill have a spare set off my old 2012 CX then the mavic odff the 2014 and now these - I need a bigger shed - delivery on Tuesday - gutted.

Still debating taking the interrupter levers off - they come in handy in traffic some days!

What saddle you got?

bigmul

I took those levers off too at the same time as fitting the jagwire cables. As you say, only ever used them at traffic lights!

As for the bigger shed - I'm going down that route at the moment too!

bigmul

Forgot to say - saddle is a charge spoon - best £20 ever!

I got the Ti railed Charge Knife for the roadie, but the spoon is definitely more comfortable and only 50g heavier

antsmithmk

The Kinesis X light wheels are awesome. Huge upgrade for the bike. I've put the CX tyres on mine as I want the security of knowing they won't buckle like the Chinese deep rims I've got for road riding.

Viking2136

bigmul wrote:

I took those levers off too at the same time as fitting the jagwire cables. As you say, only ever used them at traffic lights!

As for the bigger shed - I'm going down that route at the moment too!

Did you fit complete Jagwire - inside and out or just renew the inners?

Also do the wheels come with skewers or do i need to order some?

bigmul

I ordered the complete XL kit and came with inner and outers for brakes and gears. Not done gears yet, will prob get round to it this weekend.

Skewers come with wheels.

Viking2136

cheers.

Also fitted bb7's to mine about a month back - spot on - but the front pads rattle over rough ground - took me ages to locate it as it sounded like the rear end but its def the front pads rattling, took them off twice but still rattling - anyone had this problem?

Ouija

Viking2136 wrote:

cheers.

Also fitted bb7's to mine about a month back - spot on - but the front pads rattle over rough ground - took me ages to locate it as it sounded like the rear end but its def the front pads rattling, took them off twice but still rattling - anyone had this problem?

Yes. Very common. It's not the pads, it's the lever on the caliper jiggling about because it's not under tension when not braking.

Unscrew the nut for the cable, pull the lever up and re-tighten nut. The outer pad will probably be rubbing against the rotor after doing that so use the outer adjustment wheel to back it away from the rotor (something you can only do with the BB7's and not the BB5's).

Viking2136

Ouija wrote:

Viking2136 wrote:

cheers.

Also fitted bb7's to mine about a month back - spot on - but the front pads rattle over rough ground - took me ages to locate it as it sounded like the rear end but its def the front pads rattling, took them off twice but still rattling - anyone had this problem?

Yes. Very common. It's not the pads, it's the lever on the caliper jiggling about because it's not under tension when not braking.

Unscrew the nut for the cable, pull the lever up and re-tighten nut. The outer pad will probably be rubbing against the rotor after doing that so use the outer adjustment wheel to back it away from the rotor (something you can only do with the BB7's and not the BB5's).

Umm already tried all that and afraid they still rattle like hell! Version 2 - took the spring out and bent it really wide - now no rattle - result, it was driving me insane.

only 2 more days to new wheels arrival - come on!

Viking2136

bigmul wrote:

I didn't measure the weight out of the box, however rides are on strava. Felt quicker overall - so much so that I wondered if I could have just done with the wheels and 23c tyres instead of a road bike too. Even the 30c knobblies seemed quick on the roads too.

Arrived today - now out of stock at wiggle phew! tomorrow night is shed night! time for an upgrade, new jagwire set going on as well. Mul: did you leave an inline adjuster in place of the chicken levers?