Boardman CX Owners Thread

hanhamreds

Well it's back at Halfords - I'm getting new bearings and chainset.

only time will tell how this turns out.

Viking2136

went to Halfords today to exchange my 2012 for a 2014 - paid £650 for the 2012 so a real deal, when I was just about to leave the guy said is their anything you want off the old bike - so I took the BB7's, 2 wheels, tyres and inners, front and rear deralier and the the chain set and pedals - left the frame with them - what a result - left with half a spare bike, a new 1 year guarentee and another years bike care plan (not that ill use it) thanks halfords

bigmul

I actually used the CX for a cyclocross race tonight :-)
Bad tyre choice (Conti Cyclocross Speed) but great fun!

antsmithmk

I use mine for racing, although I've swapped all the groupset for 105 stuff

Viking2136

took the new 2014 to work today (30 miles) what a dream I also know my gears were shot on the 2012 since the day i got it, but this new one is smooth as silk and rides a dream, i think the 2014 is slightly smaller in large for large comparison but its perfect for me, the discs are slightly warped and rub a bit - will this go away in time????

Viking2136

bigmul wrote:

I actually used the CX for a cyclocross race tonight :-)
Bad tyre choice (Conti Cyclocross Speed) but great fun!

cyclo cross in the summer - where - I need to race

bigmul

Think you're a bit far away! Was the Stockton Summer cyclocross series...

Viking2136

bigmul wrote:

Think you're a bit far away! Was the Stockton Summer cyclocross series...

shame

bigmul

Have just ordered some new bits for my CX team;
Kinesis CX disc wheels
Schwalbe CX Pro Light tyres
TRP Spyre breaks
105 cassette
Bar tape (for when I remove extra levers)

Do I need new break cable outers when removing extra levers?

Muzzledoctor

bigmul wrote:

Have just ordered some new bits for my CX team;
Kinesis CX disc wheels
Schwalbe CX Pro Light tyres
TRP Spyre breaks
105 cassette
Bar tape (for when I remove extra levers)

Do I need new break cable outers when removing extra levers?

Yes, you will need new cable outers as the cable is cut at the interrupter and by removing the interrupters, your cable needs to be a few inches longer.

davem399

Muzzledoctor wrote:

bigmul wrote:

Have just ordered some new bits for my CX team;
Kinesis CX disc wheels
Schwalbe CX Pro Light tyres
TRP Spyre breaks
105 cassette
Bar tape (for when I remove extra levers)

Do I need new break cable outers when removing extra levers?

Yes, you will need new cable outers as the cable is cut at the interrupter and by removing the interrupters, your cable needs to be a few inches longer.

I removed the interrupter levers, but fitted some inline adjusters I had lying around as a short term measure. My outers and bar tape were in good nick so did't bother with re-cabling the outers and fitting new bar tape. I will remove the adjusters when I get around to replacing the cables.

My CX is a 2012 model with almost 5000 miles over 2 wet winters, still on the original bottom bracket. My main upgrade has been to fit BB7 brakes, as no matter how much I tried, I could not get the BB5s to work well.

bigmul

Update - no wheels or brakes as there was no stock...why do shops let you order and pay when they can't sell you it in the first place!

tomlyner

I was gonna say... only 1 place online had the Spyres in stock 2 weeks ago and that turned out to be a lie. A lot of retailers seem to be waiting on a container from the far east.

- Edit - they've just been delivered, so there must be stock back in the UK.

cmt

Got my spyres from Merlin cycles. For one of the field staff to call in and collect as they were local and Merlin ended up giving them the carbon ones.

Very nice brake and a cinch to set up.

leehunter

Just a quick one. I have an XL frame and cannot for the life of me remember the stem length, im not at home for a week so i cannot pop out and measure it i think it is 130 but could be completely wrong?

Anybody have the specs or know the length? :P

Thanks

hanhamreds

120 on the cx team 2014 xl.

rhino si

just taken my cx team back to halfords , terrible service now on my 3rd bike in 2 weeks ist i was talked into getting a xl frame im 5 11, 2nd cracked frame they set it up and ticked off the list frame had been checked, now on my 3rd pedals/crank making a grinding sound, gears all over place and chain has snapped after pretty light use really.
anyway just looking for advice as some kid behind the counter thinks i will have to pay for chain replacing, apparently the technician was too busy to come and look and they are phoning me back next tues to let me know.
do i cut my losses and go to LBS and pay for proper set up or stand my ground with halfords.
shame really as i have boardman road comp and mtb pro without any problems but wouldn't use halfords again or probably boardman now they have been sold.
any help would be good
thanks si
(new to forum btw)

Muzzledoctor

Stand your ground quoting SOGA (sale of goods act). The moment you do any work on it not performed by Halfords they will just void the warrantee (they did this to me albeit on a second hand bike).

meanredspider

Try tweeting Chris Boardman. I did this (after advice on here) when I couldn't get Halfords to sort out a rear hanger for me in less than 2 months. I had a call from one of his guys within 2 hours and a part in 2 days.

rhino si

will stand my ground and try tweeting the man himself
thanks for quick response guys

koontz

Ok big problem I was in the process of flipping the stem undid the top cap and the side screws flipped the stem and the compression thing is stuck inside the carbon steerer and the bottom part of the compression cap is loose below it, how the hell this happened I dont know how can I get the metal compression 'thing' out of the steerer?????

Ouija

Most compression bungs are removed with the next size up allen key you used on the top cap. Look where the top cap screw actually enters into the bung and there might be what looks like a hex depression around the screw hole where you'd normaly put the bigger hex key to uncompress the bung.

koontz

No its the metal 'bracket' that is stuck the plastic piece were the top cap screws onto is below this loose in the steerer, it looks pretty tight and there seems no way of removing the steel 'bracket'.

Ouija

Pics?

koontz

At work at moment but will post pictures later.

Ok Here are some pictures of the steerer( with the steel/alum thing inside the steerer, also the top half of the headset minus the bottom part that is loose inside the steerer. None of this is broken just out of position, I cant for the life of me understand how this happened I have reversed stem loads of times on other bike but that has star nuts so maybe easier?, Also the top cap and the top bolt move together is this right on these headsets?

https://flic.kr/ps/rE4cE

koontz

Right I got the metal part out but am not sure how this all goes together some more photos with the metal part attached

https://flic.kr/ps/rE4cE

Mr W

...

Ouija

koontz wrote:

Right I got the metal part out but am not sure how this all goes together some more photos with the metal part attached

https://flic.kr/ps/rE4cE

Notice that in the pictures you haven't seperated the top cap from the top part of the expander bung (the two black pieces that LOOK like one piece with a screw hanging off the bottom). The top cap shouldn't be anywhere near the bike when expanding the bung. That's done seperately via a hex hole in the top of the bung. The bottom of the bung (the tapering black bit) sits under the metal sheaf so that only the thinnest part of it (the top) is inside the sheaf and the widest part (the bottom) is under the sheaf and touching the walls of the steerer. When you expand the bung via the larger top screw the bottom part is pulled up so that the outer sheaf slides along the incline on the bottom part, forcing it outwards. The Planet X one is identical in design...



The only difference being it's the top part of the bung that has the widening incline on the Planet X one where as on yours it's on the bottom part (but makes no difference which ends it's at).

Also notice how the top cap and it's screw are seperate items that screw into a much larger, and hollow, screw that connects the top and bottom parts of the bung (with the metal sheaf sandwiched between). Tightening the bigger hex hole on top of the bung brings the two black parts closer together, expanding the metal sheaf until it clamps onto the side of the steerer. When that's done, you put the stem on, then the top cap and smaller screw into the top of the bung and tighten until the forks don't rock when the front brakes applied (preloading the headset bearings).

At no point should the top part of the bung be pulled up the steerer until it's touching the top cap. This means the bung isn't pressing against the sides of the steerer firmly enough. If it does slide up the sides of the steerer until the top cap and top part of the bung are touching each other, turning the top caps screw just spins the hollow outer screw of the bung which WILL expand the bung , but since it's now in contact with the top cap it won't apply any preload pressure to the headsets bearings.

To me, it looks like this is what has happened. So much so that the top cap and the top part of the bung have bound together so that has you unscrewed the top caps bolt you also rotated the top part of the bung so that the top half of bung and top cap came off as one and the bottom part of the bung got unscrewed and dropped away into the bottom of the steerer, leaving the metal sheaf just hanging there in the steerer.

If that makes any sense.

W12_Lad

Would these fit my 2014 cx team and would they be a good uprade?

Seem very cheap on offer at planet x.

http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/WPSHOEMXT/ ... -272297913

koontz

Ouija wrote:

koontz wrote:

Right I got the metal part out but am not sure how this all goes together some more photos with the metal part attached

https://flic.kr/ps/rE4cE

Notice that in the pictures you haven't seperated the top cap from the top part of the expander bung (the two black pieces that LOOK like one piece with a screw hanging off the bottom). The top cap shouldn't be anywhere near the bike when expanding the bung. That's done seperately via a hex hole in the top of the bung. The bottom of the bung (the tapering black bit) sits under the metal sheaf so that only the thinnest part of it (the top) is inside the sheaf and the widest part (the bottom) is under the sheaf and touching the walls of the steerer. When you expand the bung via the larger top screw the bottom part is pulled up so that the outer sheaf slides along the incline on the bottom part, forcing it outwards. The Planet X one is identical in design...



The only difference being it's the top part of the bung that has the widening incline on the Planet X one where as on yours it's on the bottom part (but makes no difference which ends it's at).

Also notice how the top cap and it's screw are seperate items that screw into a much larger, and hollow, screw that connects the top and bottom parts of the bung (with the metal sheaf sandwiched between). Tightening the bigger hex hole on top of the bung brings the two black parts closer together, expanding the metal sheaf until it clamps onto the side of the steerer. When that's done, you put the stem on, then the top cap and smaller screw into the top of the bung and tighten until the forks don't rock when the front brakes applied (preloading the headset bearings).

At no point should the top part of the bung be pulled up the steerer until it's touching the top cap. This means the bung isn't pressing against the sides of the steerer firmly enough. If it does slide up the sides of the steerer until the top cap and top part of the bung are touching each other, turning the top caps screw just spins the hollow outer screw of the bung which WILL expand the bung , but since it's now in contact with the top cap it won't apply any preload pressure to the headsets bearings.

To me, it looks like this is what has happened. So much so that the top cap and the top part of the bung have bound together so that has you unscrewed the top caps bolt you also rotated the top part of the bung so that the top half of bung and top cap came off as one and the bottom part of the bung got unscrewed and dropped away into the bottom of the steerer, leaving the metal sheaf just hanging there in the steerer.

If that makes any sense.

Much appreciated, the top cap and hex screw do move together so looks like they need a bit of wd40 to loosen, just to clarify the bottom part of the bung doesnt go inside the metal sleeve? it is brought together by the hex screw.