Thread to tell everyone what bargains you've spotted!
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Nair from Poundland for the summer deforestation of your legs, it works on other parts of your body too I've been told.I've added a signature to prove it is still possible.0
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DrLex wrote:antlaff wrote:
I have one from last year, wasn't convinced, and put in a quick link to remove the chain to clean it properly.
Toolkit at £25 might be of interest.
Oh, and spoke reflectors in April seems unusual timing.
For what it's worth I can vouch for the toolkit, at £25 it is a bit of a bargain. I bought one last year and have used the cassette removal tools and the spoke key several times, and they've all been good.0 -
I've got an older Tacx magnetic turbo with variable resistance, its been great for my training over the winter. I know that doesn't help but if you've not bought one before, that looks like a great price for a good piece of kit. Variable resistance too, though I've found its a little superfluous. Unless you're going to spend more than double that for a fluid resistance unit, I'd go for it.tommyl7 wrote:
Worse case you'll be able to sell it for nearly that price come October/November if you don't like it.FCN3: Titanium Qoroz.0 -
DrLex wrote:antlaff wrote:
I have one from last year, wasn't convinced, and put in a quick link to remove the chain to clean it properly.
Toolkit at £25 might be of interest.
Oh, and spoke reflectors in April seems unusual timing.
Agreed! I saw you cycling a couple of weeks ago and was dissapointed you were not sporting the white trousers. It was on a friday I think coming up towards Palmers. I did honk but was on the other side of the road to you, plus you looked like you were struggling with the Col De Palmers
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I can vouch for the chain cleaner too. To get a Barbieri for around half the price is a great deal. It works just fine. And if any bike snobs get too near, they wouldn't even know it had come from Lidl anyway as Barbieri is actually moulded into it as part of the design.UndercoverElephant wrote:DrLex wrote:antlaff wrote:
I have one from last year, wasn't convinced, and put in a quick link to remove the chain to clean it properly.
I also bought one of these last year, and am very impressed with it. It's actually a Barbieri one, which usually costs a whole lot more - way better than one I got from Wiggle that fell to bits every time I used it.
Admittedly, I always use it with something a little stronger than the degreaser supplied, but it works really well, IMO.
Focus Cayo Expert (road)
Giant ATX 970 (full susp)
Trek Alpha 4300 (hardtail)
Peugeot 525 Comp (road - turbo trainer duties)0 -
spasypaddy wrote:Pro Torque Wrench 2-14Nm Bike Specific Scale
What's a "Bike Specific Scale"?
1. Loose
2. Bit tighter
3. Tight
4. Very Tight
5. Frickin Tight
6. "Crack" - Oh sh!tROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH0 -
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corriebee1 wrote:
I just bought 2 base layers, a jersey , and some arm warmers for under £25 delivered - cheaper than Lidl!strava - http://app.strava.com/athletes/1217847
trainerroad - http://www.trainerroad.com/career/joeh0 -
meanredspider wrote:spasypaddy wrote:Pro Torque Wrench 2-14Nm Bike Specific Scale
What's a "Bike Specific Scale"?
1. Loose
2. Bit tighter
3. Tight
4. Very Tight
5. Frickin Tight
6. "Crack" - Oh sh!t
Reminds me of an answer I once heard to the question "how tight do most cyclists do a bolt on a carbon seatpost?"
"Keep tightening until you hear a crack and then loosen it off a bit."Riding the Etape du Tour for Beating Bowel Cancer - click to donate http://bit.ly/P9eBbM0 -
What is wrong with the hand tight method, then check a week or two later to see if said bolt has come loose, if so, tighten little more than last time, it works for me
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Nothing at all, so long as you don't mind if your seatpost slides down during a ride, your bars rotate relative to the stem when you put the brakes on, your bars turn but the front wheel doesn't, your front mech clamp slides down the frame into the chainset etc. Nothing at all...Pannier, 120rpm.0
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TGOTB wrote:Nothing at all, so long as you don't mind if your seatpost slides down during a ride, your bars rotate relative to the stem when you put the brakes on, your bars turn but the front wheel doesn't, your front mech clamp slides down the frame into the chainset etc. Nothing at all...
I have to say, I've never had a torque wrench and I've always managed to tighten carbon and non carbon components perfectly well without any cracks or subsequent sliding or movement!Do not write below this line. Office use only.0 -
jotko wrote:corriebee1 wrote:
I just bought 2 base layers, a jersey , and some arm warmers for under £25 delivered - cheaper than Lidl!
Saw the baselayers over the weekend on Planet X...what are the sizes like?Cannondale CAADX 5 105
Trek T100 -
Similar to Nalini if that's any help. I'm XL in both Vermarc and Nalini kit, but XXL in some other Italian brands (eg Campag).littleprawn wrote:Saw the baselayers over the weekend on Planet X...what are the sizes like?Pannier, 120rpm.0 -
Actually, so do I. However there seem to be lots of people who don't develop a feel for it.Headhuunter wrote:TGOTB wrote:Nothing at all, so long as you don't mind if your seatpost slides down during a ride, your bars rotate relative to the stem when you put the brakes on, your bars turn but the front wheel doesn't, your front mech clamp slides down the frame into the chainset etc. Nothing at all...
I have to say, I've never had a torque wrench and I've always managed to tighten carbon and non carbon components perfectly well without any cracks or subsequent sliding or movement!
The point I was really trying to make is that tightening something to a fairly low torque, and then seeing whether it loosens of its own accord, could have bigger consequences. Lots of people are (quite rightly) scared of over-torquing bolts, but under-torquing them could potentially be even worse.Pannier, 120rpm.0 -
but it doesnt make sense, we're willing to spend lots of money on carbon loveliness but not £40 on something to make sure that we are able to continue riding it as we've not cracked something doing a bolt up, and also able to still ride as we've not failed to do a bolt tightly enough...TGOTB wrote:
Actually, so do I. However there seem to be lots of people who don't develop a feel for it.Headhuunter wrote:TGOTB wrote:Nothing at all, so long as you don't mind if your seatpost slides down during a ride, your bars rotate relative to the stem when you put the brakes on, your bars turn but the front wheel doesn't, your front mech clamp slides down the frame into the chainset etc. Nothing at all...
I have to say, I've never had a torque wrench and I've always managed to tighten carbon and non carbon components perfectly well without any cracks or subsequent sliding or movement!
The point I was really trying to make is that tightening something to a fairly low torque, and then seeing whether it loosens of its own accord, could have bigger consequences. Lots of people are (quite rightly) scared of over-torquing bolts, but under-torquing them could potentially be even worse.BMC TM01 - FCN 0
Look 695 (Geared) - FCN 1
Bowman Palace:R - FCN 1
Cannondale CAAD 9 - FCN 2
Premier (CX) - FCN 6
Premier (fixed/SS) - FCN30 -
TGOTB wrote:
Actually, so do I. However there seem to be lots of people who don't develop a feel for it.Headhuunter wrote:TGOTB wrote:Nothing at all, so long as you don't mind if your seatpost slides down during a ride, your bars rotate relative to the stem when you put the brakes on, your bars turn but the front wheel doesn't, your front mech clamp slides down the frame into the chainset etc. Nothing at all...
I have to say, I've never had a torque wrench and I've always managed to tighten carbon and non carbon components perfectly well without any cracks or subsequent sliding or movement!
The point I was really trying to make is that tightening something to a fairly low torque, and then seeing whether it loosens of its own accord, could have bigger consequences. Lots of people are (quite rightly) scared of over-torquing bolts, but under-torquing them could potentially be even worse.
Just to be clear, although I would have thought it's fairly obvious. After hand tightening any bolt you must obviously check for movement by applying pressure. I didn't mean to tighten up and hop on and off you go and see what happens. :roll:0 -
indyP wrote:Just to be clear, although I would have thought it's fairly obvious. After hand tightening any bolt you must obviously check for movement by applying pressure. I didn't mean to tighten up and hop on and off you go and see what happens. :roll:
Yes - I think it's more complicated in some applications. My carbon seatpost in my carbon bike used to gradually sink (ultimately I think it was a poorly designed clamp) even at the recommended torque. So, on the "by feel" method, how do you apply a "bit more" torque - after all, you've loosened it off to get it back into position? With a torque wrench, if 5Nm is too little, try 5.5Nm, then 6NmROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH0 -
personally I'd go for this one in that price range Teng torque 5-25nm0
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spasypaddy wrote:[...] we're willing to spend lots of money on carbon loveliness but not £40 on something to make sure that we are able to continue riding it as we've not cracked something doing a bolt up, and also able to still ride as we've not failed to do a bolt tightly enough...
I concur, so bought the Ritchley torque key with my CF bike. Small & light enough to leave in the saddlebag/tool bidon; cheap enough to lose without tears.Location: ciderspace0 -
bushu wrote:personally I'd go for this one in that price range Teng torque 5-25nm
Teng are obviously excellent quality. Provided they are certified, though, most will be fine. They aren't going to see loads of action and, almost by definition, they will be used within their design parameters so they're hardly going to wear out.ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH0 -
While there's some torque wrench debate on can I resurrect an earlier thread:
viewtopic.php?f=40042&t=12912106
Still not sure (assuming you do want one) whether its worth spending £30 or £300....0 -
TGOTB wrote:
Similar to Nalini if that's any help. I'm XL in both Vermarc and Nalini kit, but XXL in some other Italian brands (eg Campag).littleprawn wrote:Saw the baselayers over the weekend on Planet X...what are the sizes like?
Cheers...I got the Vermarc bib shorts in L and fit is fine. Do not have any Nalini kit but got a Campag Jacket and LS jersey in M fit me...more of a snug fit...so would M / F work....since base layers usually smaller and tighter.Cannondale CAADX 5 105
Trek T100 -
londoncommuter wrote:While there's some torque wrench debate on can I resurrect an earlier thread:
viewtopic.php?f=40042&t=12912106
Still not sure (assuming you do want one) whether its worth spending £30 or £300....
£30 to £50 is fine. Mostly, even the calibration certificate isn't that important. It doesn't matter what it says on the gauge (the absolute value) - what matters is the relative torque value. Before removing a bolt, set the torque wrench to the specified amount and see if it clicks on the bolt. If it doesn't, wind down a little until it does - this only takes seconds. Take the item off, fettle and then remount using that same setting knowing that it will work exactly as before. It will probably take you rather less time than the person going by feel and it will certainly be more precise.Faster than a tent.......0
