Thread to tell everyone what bargains you've spotted!

kelsen

Rolf F wrote:

£30 to £50 is fine. Mostly, even the calibration certificate isn't that important. It doesn't matter what it says on the gauge (the absolute value) - what matters is the relative torque value. Before removing a bolt, set the torque wrench to the specified amount and see if it clicks on the bolt. If it doesn't, wind down a little until it does - this only takes seconds. Take the item off, fettle and then remount using that same setting knowing that it will work exactly as before. It will probably take you rather less time than the person going by feel and it will certainly be more precise.

What a great tip! You sir, are a genius.

meanredspider

kelsen wrote:

Rolf F wrote:

£30 to £50 is fine. Mostly, even the calibration certificate isn't that important. It doesn't matter what it says on the gauge (the absolute value) - what matters is the relative torque value. Before removing a bolt, set the torque wrench to the specified amount and see if it clicks on the bolt. If it doesn't, wind down a little until it does - this only takes seconds. Take the item off, fettle and then remount using that same setting knowing that it will work exactly as before. It will probably take you rather less time than the person going by feel and it will certainly be more precise.

What a great tip! You sir, are a genius.

Care - this assumes that the bolt is in no way "stuck" in the thread (corrosion, Loctite, dirt etc)

veronese68

meanredspider wrote:

kelsen wrote:

Rolf F wrote:

£30 to £50 is fine. Mostly, even the calibration certificate isn't that important. It doesn't matter what it says on the gauge (the absolute value) - what matters is the relative torque value. Before removing a bolt, set the torque wrench to the specified amount and see if it clicks on the bolt. If it doesn't, wind down a little until it does - this only takes seconds. Take the item off, fettle and then remount using that same setting knowing that it will work exactly as before. It will probably take you rather less time than the person going by feel and it will certainly be more precise.

What a great tip! You sir, are a genius.

Care - this assumes that the bolt is in no way "stuck" in the thread (corrosion, Loctite, dirt etc)

What MRS said. I would add to that the fact that there is always an amount of "stiction" even on clean threads. It takes more torque to start a bolt turning than it does to continue turning one that is already moving. This is why if something needs retorquing you should always back it off a bit first so you get a true reading.
Hope this makes sense

tgotb

meanredspider wrote:

kelsen wrote:

Rolf F wrote:

£30 to £50 is fine. Mostly, even the calibration certificate isn't that important. It doesn't matter what it says on the gauge (the absolute value) - what matters is the relative torque value. Before removing a bolt, set the torque wrench to the specified amount and see if it clicks on the bolt. If it doesn't, wind down a little until it does - this only takes seconds. Take the item off, fettle and then remount using that same setting knowing that it will work exactly as before. It will probably take you rather less time than the person going by feel and it will certainly be more precise.

What a great tip! You sir, are a genius.

Care - this assumes that the bolt is in no way "stuck" in the thread (corrosion, Loctite, dirt etc)

Also assumes that your starting point is a fully-assembled bicycle. Most of my bikes arrive piecemeal over a period of months and then get assembled when the parts box reaches critical mass...

spasypaddy

so its arrived. seems well made. not as good as the pro one i was using at the weekend...

so im tempted to send it back...

jotko

littleprawn wrote:

jotko wrote:

corriebee1 wrote:

DrLex wrote:

S/S Vermarc jerseys in red/black or blue/black for £4.99 @ Planet-X of interest?

Nice one. Just bought 3 jerseys and a base layer, for £22 delivered.

I just bought 2 base layers, a jersey , and some arm warmers for under £25 delivered - cheaper than Lidl!

Saw the baselayers over the weekend on Planet X...what are the sizes like?

My package just arrived - 23 hrs after I ordered it and delivery was free, fair play to Planet X.

The Vermarc Jersey is excellent, especially for £4.99. Vermarc base layers are good as well. I am 5ft7 with a 40" chest and got a large in both, fit is good for me. The arm warmers (red level) are a bit pony but for £4.99 cant really complain, they will keep my arms warm.

Overall impressed - might order some more base layers if they have any, want to test them out on a ride first.

bushu

My Vermarc tops arrived today, although minus one of the 5squid tops for some reason..
was on my picking/delivery note :? gave them a quick call and sending it out today

did notice that the quality is a bit better on the slightly more expensive rapid dry 3/4 zip jerseys

Headhuunter

bushu wrote:

My Vermarc tops arrived today, although minus one of the 5squid tops for some reason..
was on my picking/delivery note :? gave them a quick call and sending it out today

did notice that the quality is a bit better on the slightly more expensive rapid dry 3/4 zip jerseys

My jerseys arrived, I went for L and they don't leave much to the imagination! I can see my nipples through the fabric. If I had a 6 pack you'd be able to see that... As usual, they come out a bit short on my body but then most cycling stuff does, I've got a long torso. 1 thing it says that you have to hand wash them... What a pain, do you think they'd be OK in a cold or cool delicates cycle?

bushu

Mine will be goin on a cool wash once i have done my usual home from work routine.. :?
I dont own any rapha or asos so it all goes in together on a cool/wool wash.. even merinos :shock:

edit- just remember NO FABRIC SOFTENER!

tgotb

Headhuunter wrote:

bushu wrote:

My Vermarc tops arrived today, although minus one of the 5squid tops for some reason..
was on my picking/delivery note :? gave them a quick call and sending it out today

did notice that the quality is a bit better on the slightly more expensive rapid dry 3/4 zip jerseys

My jerseys arrived, I went for L and they don't leave much to the imagination! I can see my nipples through the fabric. If I had a 6 pack you'd be able to see that... As usual, they come out a bit short on my body but then most cycling stuff does, I've got a long torso. 1 thing it says that you have to hand wash them... What a pain, do you think they'd be OK in a cold or cool delicates cycle?

My Vermarc jerseys all say good to machine wash at 30 degrees (which is what I do).

littleprawn

Guys,

Cheers for advice for the Vermarc sizing. Will take a punt on the baselayer and cycling tops (not the £4.99 ones)...they are all gone!

Headhuunter

TGOTB wrote:

Headhuunter wrote:

bushu wrote:

My Vermarc tops arrived today, although minus one of the 5squid tops for some reason..
was on my picking/delivery note :? gave them a quick call and sending it out today

did notice that the quality is a bit better on the slightly more expensive rapid dry 3/4 zip jerseys

My jerseys arrived, I went for L and they don't leave much to the imagination! I can see my nipples through the fabric. If I had a 6 pack you'd be able to see that... As usual, they come out a bit short on my body but then most cycling stuff does, I've got a long torso. 1 thing it says that you have to hand wash them... What a pain, do you think they'd be OK in a cold or cool delicates cycle?

My Vermarc jerseys all say good to machine wash at 30 degrees (which is what I do).

Really? did you get the 4.99 three quarter zip ones? Mine have a tag specifically attached to them saying hand wash only....

meanredspider

A hand-wash cycling jersey is a ridiculous concept. The jersey spends its day on your sweaty back - the armpits, for instance, are attacked by your sweat at 39C and abraded by your arm movements for hours on end. And then you take it off and treat it like a silk blouse? At £4.99, I'd try it on a 30C gentle wash.

gavbarron

I was all cycling gear on a 30 or 40 deg was, same for all my running kit and noticed no ill effects on any brand or item so would suggest you'd be fine. If It was a hand wash only as meanredspider says with all that sweat and working in then top would be permanent stinking after a short while

rolf_f

TGOTB wrote:

meanredspider wrote:

kelsen wrote:

Rolf F wrote:

£30 to £50 is fine. Mostly, even the calibration certificate isn't that important. It doesn't matter what it says on the gauge (the absolute value) - what matters is the relative torque value. Before removing a bolt, set the torque wrench to the specified amount and see if it clicks on the bolt. If it doesn't, wind down a little until it does - this only takes seconds. Take the item off, fettle and then remount using that same setting knowing that it will work exactly as before. It will probably take you rather less time than the person going by feel and it will certainly be more precise.

What a great tip! You sir, are a genius.

Care - this assumes that the bolt is in no way "stuck" in the thread (corrosion, Loctite, dirt etc)

Also assumes that your starting point is a fully-assembled bicycle. Most of my bikes arrive piecemeal over a period of months and then get assembled when the parts box reaches critical mass...

Well, it assumes you have a modern bike (ie one with similarly torqued bolts as whatever it is you are working on) of some sort knocking around. Unless you are have no existing bikes and are starting from scratch, you will probably have plenty of bolts to semi calibrate against. They don't have to be on the bike you are working at.

And MRS is right - there are other considerations (my stuff tends not to get corroded and siezed due to me being a maintenance junky and keeping the bikes in my house) - but the point is that you have both the behaviour of the existing bolt (the relative value) and the scale on the torque wrench (the absolute value) to help your confidence. If a bolt is supposed to be tightened to about 5nm and when you test the bolt on the bike, it turns out to shift at round about 5nm on the torque wrench scale, you probably don't need to lose any sleep over just retaining that setting when you retighten the bolt. The 'instinct' methods of bolt tightening are going to be far less precise whatever. The only way to be absolutely sure is to get the best torque wrench you can and have it recalibrated regularly. But that would be a bit ocd.....

I think Veronese makes a good point. I tend to tighten slowly to the 'click' point but maybe that isn't good enough. Does anyone know on that basis how much over actual might my resulting torque setting be for say a 5nm bolt? I can't imagine it is much but imagine isn't good enough!

meanredspider

gavbarron wrote:

If It was a hand wash only as meanredspider says with all that sweat and working in then top would be permanent stinking after a short while

Yes - though my point was really that the use environment (on the bike) is far harsher than a cool wash in a washing machine. There was something about people handwashing their shorts - the same shorts that are designed to spend hours grinding between your sweaty butt and the saddle with 50+kg upwards of weight on them, sprayed in road dirt and rain. This makes no sense to me.

The key thing is to avoid detergents with bleaches (use the "colour" versions or wool products). The rest should be fine.

Headhuunter

meanredspider wrote:

gavbarron wrote:

If It was a hand wash only as meanredspider says with all that sweat and working in then top would be permanent stinking after a short while

Yes - though my point was really that the use environment (on the bike) is far harsher than a cool wash in a washing machine. There was something about people handwashing their shorts - the same shorts that are designed to spend hours grinding between your sweaty butt and the saddle with 50+kg upwards of weight on them, sprayed in road dirt and rain. This makes no sense to me.

The key thing is to avoid detergents with bleaches (use the "colour" versions or wool products). The rest should be fine.

Yeah I might get some delicate washing prefer for wool or whatever. Got a wool and a silk setting on my washing machine and both have the hand wash icon next to them so it'll probably be safe

meanredspider

Headhuunter wrote:

Yeah I might get some delicate washing prefer for wool or whatever. Got a wool and a silk setting on my washing machine and both have the hand wash icon next to them so it'll probably be safe

Yes - honestly, if they don't survive that then they were unlikely to be any good anyway.

littleprawn

littleprawn wrote:

Guys,

Cheers for advice for the Vermarc sizing. Will take a punt on the baselayer and cycling tops (not the £4.99 ones)...they are all gone!

Got my baselayers from Planet X - The L summer short sleeve fitted well and the M Long Sleeve for Winter is very tight fitting and worth a punt. I missed out on the baselayer from CRC by Campag...but saved some dosh....worse case scenario...missus can have the LS Base!

Also got the Vermarc Short Sleeved Rapid Dry Long Zip Jersey in Large and in Green and White and pleased with it....good price at £11.99!

Ordered on Wednesday evening and arrived this morning!

rubertoe

Dura Ace triple 7800 shifters £187.50

daniel_b

rubertoe wrote:

Dura Ace triple 7800 shifters £187.50

Is it possible to alter a triple changer so it will work with a double does anyone know?

onemoresolo

Should just be a case of adjusting the high limit screw so you can't shift beyond the big ring. Works on my setup anyway.

thepeopleschamp

Replacement filters for a Respro Techno mask.

Usually about £14ish, Halfords got them with 49% off, then a 20% discount on accessories makes £6.

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10001&langId=-1&productId=188727

veronese68

Daniel B wrote:

rubertoe wrote:

Dura Ace triple 7800 shifters £187.50

Is it possible to alter a triple changer so it will work with a double does anyone know?

I think it's best to set it up so the lowest click is unused. That way you can't try to force the shifter beyond the top limit by pulling more cable, you only release cable if you click down too far to granny ring position and don't stress any components. Hope that makes sense.

redvee

Daniel B wrote:

rubertoe wrote:

Dura Ace triple 7800 shifters £187.50

Is it possible to alter a triple changer so it will work with a double does anyone know?

My triple Tiagra shifters have been running a double R700 chainset on the now retired Allez but now resurected on Kiwi.

itboffin

Triple is fine for double use, in fact they used to make them all like that

patrickf

itboffin wrote:

Triple is fine for double use, in fact they used to make them all like that

Until people set them up wrong using the bottom two clicks and people broke lots of 5600 shifters. They then made specific double/triple shifters to stop them breaking.

A triple will be fine on a double, but as above make sure you use the top two clicks so you don't accidentally force the shifter past the top limit.

gbsahne001

there's even a warning sticker from Shimano saying "do not use these (triples) shifters for double chain sets" but they work fine providing you set it up on the top 2 clicks.

redvee

rubertoe wrote:

Dura Ace triple 7800 shifters £187.50

Looking at the image on Merlin's site it appears the gear cables aren't routed under the bar tape. Anybody confirm this?

spasypaddy

redvee wrote:

rubertoe wrote:

Dura Ace triple 7800 shifters £187.50

Looking at the image on Merlin's site it appears the gear cables aren't routed under the bar tape. Anybody confirm this?

yes the 7800 have the old style sticky out gear cable.