Thread To Tell Everyone What Fettling You've Just Done

Kieran_Burns

Swapped chain (105 for Ultegra), cassette (105 12-26 for Ultegra 11-28), Hollowetech II BB (105 for Ultegra), and crankset (50/39/30 105 for a 52/39/30 Dura Ace) on the Madone.

Oh and the front derailleur swap out is on order... 105 to be swapped for Dura Ace. It was half price, so seemed a shame not to!

So basically my 105 set is almost a combo of Dura Ace and Ultegra... going to price up some new shifters next month - the ones on the Madone have the shifter cables not routed through the bar tape and I'd like to tidy that up.

andy9964

Just fitted my first ever clipless pedals and cleats.
Loosened tension a little, and all seems fine. I'll be road testing this afternoon

Don't know what everyone goes on about, how hard can it be .......................TBC

Roastie

I'd wrecked my mtb's fancy tubeless rear wheel so swapped back to the old standard wheels. Got bored with fixing punctures so spent yesterday converting the standard wheels till tubeless. The front tyre popped on in a flash. I spent a futile 30 mins trying to get the rear inflated to no avail. Will try again today.

menthel

menthel wrote:

Bike cleaned and brakes adjusted. The discs on my scourer are awful and this is their last chance- if they are out of whack again after this I am going to bite the bullet and get bb7s.

Going to get bb7s. Got fed up with my bike sounding like a portable knife sharpener on my ride today. The current brakes just don't have the level of fine adjustment needed to get them set up right.

Koncordski

Cleaned the brompton, it's an old one but was starting to get embarrassed at its condition. Also as I've renamed it the crash magnet I'm hoping the clean will break the spell. 2 offs in 2 days, not funny anymore.

rolf_f

Veloplugged my Neutrons!

DrLex

Rolf F wrote:

Veloplugged my Neutrons!

Eh? En Anglais, SVP.

One road cone retrieved from the hedgerow, a pair of scissors (with adult supervision) and a fistful of cable ties, and my pub bike is sporting a reflective wrap on seat stays and top tube, Blue Peter-stylee. Road tested with a round trip to Shepton Beauchamp and three pints of Otter.

cyclingprop

Kieran_Burns wrote:

Swapped chain (105 for Ultegra), cassette (105 12-26 for Ultegra 11-28), Hollowetech II BB (105 for Ultegra), and crankset (50/39/30 105 for a 52/39/30 Dura Ace) on the Madone.

Oh and the front derailleur swap out is on order... 105 to be swapped for Dura Ace. It was half price, so seemed a shame not to!

So basically my 105 set is almost a combo of Dura Ace and Ultegra... going to price up some new shifters next month - the ones on the Madone have the shifter cables not routed through the bar tape and I'd like to tidy that up.

And how does it run?

rolf_f

DrLex wrote:

Rolf F wrote:

Veloplugged my Neutrons!

Eh? En Anglais, SVP.

Fusspot!

I put these:



into these:



Like so - instead of rim tape:



Saves a bit of weight for free but more usefully apparently stops latex tubes trying to creep under the tape. Not that I really think that was likely given how well the Campag tape fits but never mind.

DrLex

Rolf F wrote:

[suitable explanation]

Ah! Merci, vieux fruit; little hats for spokes.

rolf_f

DrLex wrote:

Rolf F wrote:

[suitable explanation]

Ah! Merci, vieux fruit; little hats for spokes.

Ohhhh! You should have named them! Veloplugs is such a crap name; Spoke Hats is much nicer!

Kieran_Burns

Front derailleur swapped for the Dura Ace... lawks that is one smooth change now. Also managed to get the rear cassette all dialled in as well.

Looking forward to riding in tomorrow - everything is now Dura Ace / Ultegra. Shame the rider doesn't match the quality!

denniskwok

Stuck grease into the freehub of my carbon clinchers a few months to try and try lower the noise level. Succeeding in doing that, but also succeeded in gumming up the pawls and ending up with a two-way free hub. Cue dissessembly and getting all of the grease out and relubing with a heavy oil instead.

Note: never use grease in a freehub ever again.

meanredspider

Apart from a full Scott CR1 SL build...?

Swapped the bearings in the front hub of the Volagi's wheel. Very easy job: tapped them out using the axle - pressed them back in using the QR skewer and the old bearings (great trick). 5 minutes - job done

itboffin

meanredspider wrote:

Apart from a full Scott CR1 SL build...?

Swapped the bearings in the front hub of the Volagi's wheel. Very easy job: tapped them out using the axle - pressed them back in using the QR skewer and the old bearings (great trick). 5 minutes - job done

Interesting so any pics of how that works?

meanredspider

itboffin wrote:

Interesting so any pics of how that works?

Nope - but it's pretty simple:
1. Insert the axle in the hub and position the bearings on either end.
2. Start by using just the caps on either side with the QR skewer inserted through the lot
3. With the lever in the "open" position, tighten the nut on the other end of the skewer
4. Close the skewer lever, pressing the bearings in
5. Open the lever & retighten the nut then close the lever
6. Repeat until the skewer runs out of thread or is up against the end of the axle.
7. Remove the skewer and position both old bearings on either side - replace the skewer and continue
8. You'll know the bearings are home when the lever will no longer close. Job done.

vermin

Dismantled, cleaned and reassembled headset on the Foil. Result - nasty steerer play and creaking eliminated, grin returned. Oh and whilst I'm there I might as well SLAM THAT STEM. :twisted:

rubertoe

I have a day off tomorrow, I am going creak diagnosing...

I also have to prep the peugeot for assembly.

bobbygloss

Prepared the MTB for a sportive on Saturday. It is now 3.9kg lighter than it was 2 months ago!
Ongoing work is to refresh the road bike. All new cables and new rear mech fitted, now have to learn how to do bar tape.

englander

Bobbygloss wrote:

<snip>, now have to learn how to do bar tape.

I learnt how to do bar tape a couple of weeks ago and it surprised me how easy it was after being initially cautious. I highly recommend this Youtube tutorial by Evans. I have one little wrinkle in the bar tape on the right (the side I did first), and the left is pretty much perfect.

redvee

Bobbygloss wrote:

<snip>, now have to learn how to do bar tape.

I found it best to start at the end of the bars and work towards the stem and several turns of insulating tape to secure the ends when finished.

meanredspider

A great tip my LBS gave me is to start the wrapping and do several turns. Then, fold the overlap in an put the plug in. Then unwind and re-wrap to remove any unsightly bulges that putting the plug in might have caused.

MisterMuncher

Fitted proper cartridge pads to the Synapse.

So, let me check I have the right of this. Cartridge pads give better braking, easier replacement, cost much the same over the lifetime of the bike, and don'tcarry big a risk of rim damage when compared to the solid blocks stuck on to save pennies in the factory.

The mind, she boggles.

porlyworly

Replaced the big ring on my chainset for the first time. Frustratingly fiddly getting unscrewing the bolts...

Paul E

Fixed a rear "p" sliver of glass, baaaaaaarstad

edhornby

chainring bolts are a flipping nightmare, somebody needs to work on a better design....

had a pair of punctures recently :-( new tyre (lithion2 out of the bargains bulk buy box at home) and fresh tube seems to have sorted it, need to give the bike a right good clean and the fresh bartape it's been crying out for since winter

hmmm will need a new front wheel as well soon, concave rim and dodgy bearings, time to replace

asprilla

Changed freewheel on the Pug and removed chainset and fork. I'm not happy with the crown race position, doesn't quite make it all the way down so it's booked into the LBS to be properly faced.

Also, decided to use a proper SS chainset rather than the authentic Campag Chorus double.

meanredspider

Swapped the bearings at the back of the V. Haven't ridden it yet and I'm sure they'll bed in but the 2RS bearings definitely don't spin as nicely as the RUs. No play in the rear wheel now though.

My rear BB7 inner adjuster had seized solid. Damaged the T25 trying to turn it. In the end, had to prize off the plastic cap and use a socket on it. Fortunately the BB5 has the same adjuster and I had one in the cupboard. Worth keeping an eye on if, like me, you hardly use the rear brakes so hardly ever adjust them.

Then I built back up the bearings on my old RS10s that I use on the turbo bike and put all that back together.

In fact it's been a day for brakes and bearings all round - did the pads, discs and a wheel bearing on my Alfa MiTo too

redvee

Fixed a snakebite PF visit before 5am on the outskirts of Caldicot cause of the terrible surface used on NCN4 and snapped two tyre levers in the process.

Paul E

Raised saddle a bit and removed the two remaining 5mm spacers from under the stem and it still feels like I need to get a 110mm stem.

First run with using dry teflon lube too, amazed to get to work and my chain not covered in black sludge (I do wipe off the excess)