Thread To Tell Everyone What Fettling You've Just Done

1…217218220222223…234

Comments

  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    Do I need to adjust my saddle height to compensate for different chamois pad thicknesses?

    Out at the weekend in my La Passione shorts which have quite a thick, resilient pad. Last night I could tell the temps were falling so I chose bibtights. Bit warm to start with, but glad of them after 30 minutes. Anyway, from the off I had a nagging feeling that the saddle was a tiny bit too low, but I CBA to get off and fiddle with it.

    I'll check it out tonight with a tape measure, and probably conclude it has slipped and I need to reapply the carbon paste and torque the clamp bolt properly. But I wondered if chamois thickness could make a difference you'd notice like that?
  • tgotb
    tgotb Posts: 4,714
    keef66 wrote:
    Do I need to adjust my saddle height to compensate for different chamois pad thicknesses?
    Depends how sensitive you are to changes in position, but in theory yes it would make a difference. Some people are hyper-sensitive to position changes, others can ride someone else's bike and not be able to tell the difference.

    Bear in mind though that it's the difference in thickness *when compressed* that matters; with most of your bodyweight spread over a few square inches even the thickest pad is going to get quite compressed, so in practice the difference may be negligible.
    Pannier, 120rpm.
  • redvee
    redvee Posts: 11,922
    redvee wrote:
    Slowly trying to get rid of the creaking from the commute bike, last major attempt was ne bars a few weeks back which didn't work then new STI clamps which ahgain didn't work. Only other options are stem or forks, luckily I have a pair of forks from the old frame but tonight I put a different stem on which although is 10mm longer will help eliminate another possible culprit.

    The stem was the culprit, why didn't I change it first? Silence of the commute today :D and with the 10mm longer stem I couldn't feel any diffference though the angle of alternative stem might have helped the reach etc. Will see if CR will replace the old stem which I bought 26/04/18.
    I've added a signature to prove it is still possible.
  • mrkev83
    mrkev83 Posts: 184
    After losing brakes on my Fuji I've replaced both sets of brake pads on my BB5's for Uberbike pads....now she stops after a lot of tinkering with alignment and youtube lead tuition
    http://www.strava.com/athletes/mrkev83

    Built for comfort... Not for speed
  • luv2ride
    luv2ride Posts: 2,367
    Does this count as fettling? De-stickered my Zonda's this morning, after about 3 years of putting it off :lol:
    All went pretty much to plan and done in roughly 30 mins. Heat gun, careful peeling, then acetone, then isopryl alcohol to remove residue. Probably quite a flammable mix, but didn't burst into flames on some steep descents later in the day :wink:

    The new "stealth" look also definately goes a little faster too...
    Titus Silk Road Ti rigid 29er - Scott Solace 10 disc - Kinesis Crosslight Pro6 disc - Scott CR1 SL - Pinnacle Arkose X 650b - Pinnacle Arkose singlespeed - Specialized Singlecross...& an Ernie Ball Musicman Stingray 4 string...
  • tgotb
    tgotb Posts: 4,714
    Experimenting with dry chain lube for the first time. Thorough clean of the drivetrains on both road and TT bikes (because they share a chainset); now I just need to figure out what to do with a jar of filthy white spirit...
    Pannier, 120rpm.
  • asprilla
    asprilla Posts: 8,440
    Had a squeak for a week or so on best bike that I need to fix before heading to the Alps. Did my first club run of the year yesterday and it no-longer squeaks.

    My favourite kind of fettling.
    Mud - Genesis Vapour CCX
    Race - Fuji Norcom Straight
    Sun - Cervelo R3
    Winter / Commute - Dolan ADX
  • 6wheels
    6wheels Posts: 411
    TGOTB wrote:
    Experimenting with dry chain lube for the first time. Thorough clean of the drivetrains on both road and TT bikes (because they share a chainset); now I just need to figure out what to do with a jar of filthy white spirit...

    I always clean my chains with petrol/white spirit, then put the waste into a gallon can for delivery to the recycling centre when it's fullish.
  • asprilla
    asprilla Posts: 8,440
    Prepared the Cervelo for the Alps: 52/36 down to 50/34 at the front and added a 11-32 the the back.

    Rear tyre was through to the carcass at points so I swapped that out. Found a foolproof way of inflating a new tubeless tyre by daisy chaining an Airshock and a Joe Blow Charger at 160psi.

    Also changed the bar tape.
    Mud - Genesis Vapour CCX
    Race - Fuji Norcom Straight
    Sun - Cervelo R3
    Winter / Commute - Dolan ADX
  • itboffin
    itboffin Posts: 20,052
    Very wise choice of gearing
    Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
  • asprilla
    asprilla Posts: 8,440
    itboffin wrote:
    Very wise choice of gearing

    Wasnt sure it would fit as it's on the limit of capacity and I use Q-rings. Had to really wind in the b screw.
    Mud - Genesis Vapour CCX
    Race - Fuji Norcom Straight
    Sun - Cervelo R3
    Winter / Commute - Dolan ADX
  • itboffin
    itboffin Posts: 20,052
    Set up two more pairs of shoes i've had for a while, Bont & Giro

    oDmPQsqmjevMVBYHkcRlpiaiYXEw454OKSHQwBFNQSw-1536x2048.jpg

    Yeah I know messed up wonky knees mean my cleats are heavily angled, looks odd but feels fine on the bike.

    rIwaa8ez-eP4iEaLvCXpTfY_nPp9prVpun_ASWSg9DI-1536x2048.jpg
    Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
  • wolfsbane2k
    wolfsbane2k Posts: 3,056
    Clean and basic service of the diverge at 1800km in.
    new chain, new brake pads, new rear tyre.
    And realised that due to the way someone put the cables on the bike, I've got a rub spot on the brake cable clean through the outer right near the handlebar, meaning I've got to replace that soon too.
    And the in line cable brake adjuster has been cross threaded on install, so my minor fettling over the last 4 months has completely strpped it bare of thread.

    It' was a nice set of jagwire cables & adjusters too, damn it.
    Intent on Cycling Commuting on a budget, but keep on breaking/crashing/finding nice stuff to buy.
    Bike 1 (Broken) - Bike 2(Borked) - Bike 3(broken spokes) - Bike 4( Needs Work) - Bike 5 (in bits) - Bike 6* ...
  • asprilla
    asprilla Posts: 8,440
    Cervelo saddle clamp sorted.

    Genesis front mech sorted. Brakes still squeaky.

    Dolan not sorted yet; I crossed the cables at front as normal and put them in the guides for the internal routing. Turns out I didn't need to cross them but I'd already crimped them and removed the guides. Front shifter was connected to rear mech. New inners ordered.
    Mud - Genesis Vapour CCX
    Race - Fuji Norcom Straight
    Sun - Cervelo R3
    Winter / Commute - Dolan ADX
  • itboffin
    itboffin Posts: 20,052
    did a chain swapping session, replacing the completely worn out winter bike chain with the one from my turbo then fitted a semi used to the turbo #recycling

    Swapped 20mm layback seatpost for a 15mm and pushed the saddle forward as far as it will go, is it just me or is it really hard to get saddles level, i struggle on all my bikes with various 1 & 2 bolt seatposts
    Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    itboffin wrote:
    Swapped 20mm layback seatpost for a 15mm and pushed the saddle forward as far as it will go, is it just me or is it really hard to get saddles level, i struggle on all my bikes with various 1 & 2 bolt seatposts

    I like the 2 bolt clamps with one in front and one behind the post. Those you can really fine tune by loosening one and tightening the other.

    All the other designs I'd agree with you. With some even when you get them level they seem to slip once in use and end up pointing up or down. And my @rse seems to be ridiculously sensitive to saddle angle.
  • greenamex2
    greenamex2 Posts: 272
    Replaced my rear wheel bearings with stainless steel ones.

    Wheel doesn't wobble about half an inch now!

    The standard DT Swiss ones lasted over 4000 miles. About 3000 miles longer than Shimano and Bontrager ones on my other bikes/wheels.

    Actually only one REALLY needed replacing, did the rest whilst it was apart.
  • mrkev83
    mrkev83 Posts: 184
    So....turns out cleaning the bike has benefits

    I recently had a snapped chain which I swapped myself.....then....a random rubbing I couldn't work out where the hell it was coming from.....on cleaning it appears I routed the chain the wrong way through the tiny cogs at the back and it was dragging over a piece of metal....all re-routed, clean, lubed....quiet as it can be :? :lol:
    http://www.strava.com/athletes/mrkev83

    Built for comfort... Not for speed
  • greenamex2
    greenamex2 Posts: 272
    MrKev83 wrote:
    So....turns out cleaning the bike has benefits

    I recently had a snapped chain which I swapped myself.....then....a random rubbing I couldn't work out where the hell it was coming from.....on cleaning it appears I routed the chain the wrong way through the tiny cogs at the back and it was dragging over a piece of metal....all re-routed, clean, lubed....quiet as it can be :? :lol:

    I did that...live and learn!
  • greenamex2
    greenamex2 Posts: 272
    greenamex2 wrote:
    Replaced my rear wheel bearings with stainless steel ones.

    Wheel doesn't wobble about half an inch now!

    The standard DT Swiss ones lasted over 4000 miles. About 3000 miles longer than Shimano and Bontrager ones on my other bikes/wheels.

    Actually only one REALLY needed replacing, did the rest whilst it was apart.

    And now the bike doesn't do a little jig when the rear wheel goes over a branch or large stone. And all those noises I was blaming on the bottom bracket have disappeared!
  • roger_merriman
    roger_merriman Posts: 6,165
    shifting started to go south recently, narrowed it down, to the Jokey wheels which had huge movement, I think they have done 9k.

    After a bit around the houses finding some in stock, fitted and shifting is back to normal.
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    Fitted massive 11-36 9 speed MTB cassette and rear mech to winter bike. And a new, longer chain. That's with a 46/36 CX chainset. Might be a bit gappy but it should winch my geriatric @rse up just about anything.

    Indexing sorted after unwinding both limit screws quite a bit. Out of the box it only reached the middle 5 sprockets; is that a consequence of using a MTB mech on a road bike? And I still have a mystery extra click on my 9 speed shifters. Hope that doesn't mean they are on their way out...

    Is there a market for a well used 9 speed 12-27 Tiagra cassette and 4500 rear mech, or should I just chuck them in the recycling? I bought them used and now they are very. Think it's bin time.

    While the rear wheel was out I noticed the tread on the 25mm GP4S tyre was disintegrating and down to the carcass in places, so that went in the bin. Briefly fitted a 28mm replacement, and established I can't run 28s and mudguards. Not if I want the wheel to go round anyway. Took it off again and fitted one of the bargain £10 25mm Rubino Pros I snapped up a few weeks ago.

    That's me sorted for my next wet, hilly ride!
  • itboffin
    itboffin Posts: 20,052
    Right someone must know, where are the holes on the Garmin 820 for the barometric altimeter, surely not the four holes on the mount?
    Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
  • redvee
    redvee Posts: 11,922
    itboffin wrote:
    not the four holes on the mount?

    Those are for the beeps but it wouldn't surprise me if one is used for the altimeter too.
    I've added a signature to prove it is still possible.
  • redvee
    redvee Posts: 11,922
    itboffin wrote:
    not the four holes on the mount?

    Those are for the beeps but it wouldn't surprise me if one is used for the altimeter too.
    I've added a signature to prove it is still possible.
  • veronese68
    veronese68 Posts: 27,326
    Lots of fettling over the last week or two.
    Bottom bracket was shagged on the Kinesis so I stripped it down to sort it and found lots of crunchy bubbly paint at the bottom of the downtube. Wound up completely stripping the bike and painting it's lower sections. New bottom bracket fitted and also upgraded to the full hydraulic 685 set up I bought in October. A good result that it was sold as being a continental set up but the levers were not connected to the hoses so it was the same as if it had been a UK set up, just connect lever from one bag to caliper from the other. Also new Ultegra rear mech and cassette as I'm now on 11 speed. This has all resulted in the bars dropping about an inch as the Parabox is no more. Now have a lovely smooth running bike without flaky paint. I can ignore the colour mismatch.
    Also been rebuilding the weird Giant CFr I was given. The freehub wasn't behaving so currently have that in bits to free off the pawls. Bearings have just arrived so that can go back together. I seem to have 950 or so extra 1/8" balls if anyone finds themselves in need. Thought I'd ordered a pack of 200 but have received 1000. A friend asked me to look at his bikes as it was skipping gears. Lubing the chain fixed that but the steering was horrible. The headset was so tight you had to push the bars to straighten up after a turn. Now sorted that as well. I'm worried it came from Halfrauds like that as he wouldn't have tightened it. Haven't seen him since he dropped it of to check.
    Just need to finish getting bits for the old Chesini frame and then build my bamboo frame. Oh, and buy a frame and rebuild the lad's MTB as he managed to break the downtube on his. Plenty to keep me busy for a while then.
    Kinesis Pro6
    Marin Nail Trail
    Cotic Solaris
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    ^ my Kinesis is losing paint around the BB and inside the chainstays. It's the point where the rear mudguard attaches and it's a proper trap for road crap. In winter it gets packed with salty grit, and I suspect the movement of the guard is just grinding through the paint and setting up corrosion which then eats its way further and further under the paint.

    If I hadn't just rendered the carbon bike temporarily useless I'd be doing the same as you.

    I have some little wire brushes for the Dremel and a can of etching primer ready to go.
  • tgotb
    tgotb Posts: 4,714
    keef66 wrote:
    ^ my Kinesis is losing paint around the BB and inside the chainstays.
    My Kinesis is about the same age as Veronese's, but the area around the bottom bracket is protected by a thick layer of oily-looking black grime. This hasn't been disturbed for years, and since oil repels water I'm confident that the paint underneath will be pristine.

    My BB is making all sorts of clicky noises, but experience tells me that the noise is almost certainly coming from some other part of the bike, so I can't be bothered to do anything about it.
    Pannier, 120rpm.
  • UndercoverElephant
    UndercoverElephant Posts: 5,796
    Full build of a Genesis Datum, stole most of the bits from the Pinnacle to put on it. First ride this morning - very nice indeed, except I'm not keen on the Clement Strada USH tyres, seem a bit draggy and hard to get rolling.

    See if you can spot it in the photo!

    Rain.jpg
    Sun - Rain - Snow
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    Fixed front shifting on brother-in-law's folding BSO. Again. Think I've persuaded him & my sister to stick the bloody things on Ebay and buy some proper bikes.

    Replaced the failed seatpost clamp on the CR1 with a meatier Thomson one. Not quite the right size so needed a beer can shim to make it work. Looks lovely if you could ever say that about something as mundane as a seatpost clamp.

    Revisited the recently installed 36t MTB cassette and MTB rear mech on the winter bike after less than perfect shifting on the first ride:

    Hanger checked / straightened. Must buy a spare; this one has been tweaked too many times and I keep imagining it going the way of one of Yuri Geller's teaspoons...
    Loop of cable outer from chainstay to mech shortened. A lot. My first experience of a Shadow RD and the cable entry point / angle is very different from the old school road mechs I'm used to. Looks neater and it's likely reduced drag a lot.
    B screw a lot further in. It was very close to touching the 36t sprocket before, and noisy as a result.
    Indexing tuned to death

    On the stand it's shifting beautifully now, hopefully it will do the same on its road test tonight.

    (And then I'll take it all to bits again to sort out the paintwork / corrosion around the BB / chainstays... :roll: )

Categories