Thread To Tell Everyone What Fettling You've Just Done

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  • ugo.santalucia
    ugo.santalucia Posts: 28,272
    New front shifter cable inner/outer, new cassette, new chain... £ 30 ... you've got to love Shimano 10 speed :-)
    left the forum March 2023
  • greenamex2
    greenamex2 Posts: 272
    Fitted second hand Zipp handlebars, cheaply acquired Dura-Ace levers, cables and chain, reconditioned Ultegra rear derailleur and an old 105 cassette to convert the club ride bike to 11 speed and lose a bit of weight.

    And then spent 3 hours working out WHY the 105 cassette got replaced, and ordered a new cassette that hopefully WON'T let the chain jump over the teeth.
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    Road tested my 105 triple / 11-32 Tiagra cassette combo. Seemed OK at the extremes but bag of spanners-ish in the middle of the cassette. Back in the garage and on the workstand it appeared the indexing was so far out I had an extra click after it had dropped onto the 11t sprocket. But I still could downshift all the way to the biggest sprocket. How is it possible for a 10 speed shifter to have more than the 9 clicks normally required??

    Anyway, I wound out the barrel adjuster so the first downshift took it from 11 to 12t, and then it seemed to be behaving itself for each subsequent gear. Happy but still slightly bemused.

    I'm thinking it might be prudent to give the shifter end of the cable a good looking at; it's eaten a few of them in the past and unusual shifting is often the first sign...
  • tgotb
    tgotb Posts: 4,714
    rower63 wrote:
    Successfully replaced today. Twiddling the spindle with the previous bearings was a real grind, literally. It took effort and the bearings felt square. But once I’d removed them, they turned fine and smooth! WTF? I put in the new ones anyway, but I can only imagine the old ones had been badly installed and jammed in at a slightly non-parallel angle, and hence wouldn’t run smoothly. Flummoxed. Will monitor the new ones to see if they go the same way. The old ones are useful spares anyway.
    What are the old ones like under load? I've observed the same thing when removing bearings, but can generally make them grind with a bit of effort. If yours were grindy due to poor fitting alone, they'd have been like that from new; conversely, if it was a combination of poor fitting and wear, it's possible your new ones are also poorly fitted!
    You may have damaged them anyway; you extracted them by applying a large axial load through the bearing, which they're not designed to take. When you press in the replacements you're not doing that, because all the load from the bearing press goes through the bearing shell.
    Pannier, 120rpm.
  • redvee
    redvee Posts: 11,922
    Retired the Spoon saddle that has been on various bikes over the last 8 years today as it was creaking when I rode along and for the last 7 years has had a tear on the back when I dropped the bike and surprisingly hasn't got any bigger in time. Obvioulsy replaced it like for like.
    I've added a signature to prove it is still possible.
  • ryan_w-2
    ryan_w-2 Posts: 1,162
    For some reason, at 22:30 last night before bed, I decided to cure the creaking from my headset on my Focus.

    Removed both bearings, seals. Flushed out the little remaining grease, regreased and sealed. Now perfect.

    Should probably not leave them for another 7,079km before doing them again....
    Specialized Allez Sprint Disc --- Specialized S-Works SL7

    IG: RhinosWorkshop
  • Tashman
    Tashman Posts: 3,400
    Gave it a decent wash in the sunshine on Sunday. Father-in-law popped round whilst I was doing this and said he was surprised to see me washing the chain. He used to race fixie TTs in the early 60's and said that getting the chain wet was a no-no. It appears that it was just a case of oil on top of oil back then.
  • howardv
    howardv Posts: 6
    itboffin wrote:
    HowardV wrote:
    Planet X CNC Brakes.

    Whilst these are great value, light weight brakes, they have developed a reputation of being difficult to set-up/center and therefore get accurate & repeatable performance. In addition, as they are no longer available it means that most users will either have owned them for a number of years or recently purchased them 2nd hand.


    Yes most definitely, i had two sets, sold one and now have the other front only on my single speed the rear is seized!

    Just posted new topic ref the rebuild.
    Full photo set on Pinterest https://www.pinterest.co.uk/9a5e964c32f ... e-rebuild/
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    Out last night and happy to report the re-indexed 11-32 works flawlessly with the triple chainset in every combination out on the road. The 2 biggest sprockets when used with the inner chainring are so spinny they are unusable round here, but I'm confident they'll come in handy around the N. Yorks moors in a couple of months.
  • wolfsbane2k
    wolfsbane2k Posts: 3,056
    Had a gander at the other half's pub hack second/third hand BSO as she wanted to ride it for the first time in 2 years ( after only riding it once when she tested it for size at the cycle exchange)
    It's an awful Halfords BSO, now with broken chainguard that weighs a tonne. Quick M check, and found the Rear wheel was a "little" grinding - re-aligned then the brakes, oiled the chain and inners/outers, shift, then thought I'd have a proper go at the rear wheel.
    The bearings were completely dry, and the cups, cones & bearings shot to pieces. I did what I could so she could ride to work, but really I should have just thrown the whole bike away (or at least use it to teach the kids how to service a bike).
    Intent on Cycling Commuting on a budget, but keep on breaking/crashing/finding nice stuff to buy.
    Bike 1 (Broken) - Bike 2(Borked) - Bike 3(broken spokes) - Bike 4( Needs Work) - Bike 5 (in bits) - Bike 6* ...
  • N0bodyOfTheGoat
    N0bodyOfTheGoat Posts: 5,846
    Finally got around to looking why I couldn't select 38/11 on the Voodoo for a while, just before heading out to the shops, discovered the indexing screws were way out. Now a lot crisper shifting into smaller sprockets including the 11T, which I barely have need to use for the commute, but still not great shifting into bigger sprockets... On way home from shops decided to play with the gear shifter barrel, only stupid me was turning it clockwise and up-shifting was surprisingly getting worse! :oops: :lol:
    ================
    2020 Voodoo Marasa
    2017 Cube Attain GTC Pro Disc 2016
    2016 Voodoo Wazoo
  • ryan_w-2
    ryan_w-2 Posts: 1,162
    Specced an built this from frame up:

    46625967395_3b8c29ef9a_b.jpg
    Specialized Allez Sprint Disc --- Specialized S-Works SL7

    IG: RhinosWorkshop
  • wolfsbane2k
    wolfsbane2k Posts: 3,056
    NitrousOxide wrote:
    Finally got around to looking why I couldn't select 38/11 on the Voodoo for a while, just before heading out to the shops, discovered the indexing screws were way out. Now a lot crisper shifting into smaller sprockets including the 11T, which I barely have need to use for the commute, but still not great shifting into bigger sprockets... On way home from shops decided to play with the gear shifter barrel, only stupid me was turning it clockwise and up-shifting was surprisingly getting worse! :oops: :lol:

    I always get the cable adjuster's wrong, No idea why at all...
    Intent on Cycling Commuting on a budget, but keep on breaking/crashing/finding nice stuff to buy.
    Bike 1 (Broken) - Bike 2(Borked) - Bike 3(broken spokes) - Bike 4( Needs Work) - Bike 5 (in bits) - Bike 6* ...
  • elbowloh
    elbowloh Posts: 7,078
    NitrousOxide wrote:
    Finally got around to looking why I couldn't select 38/11 on the Voodoo for a while, just before heading out to the shops, discovered the indexing screws were way out. Now a lot crisper shifting into smaller sprockets including the 11T, which I barely have need to use for the commute, but still not great shifting into bigger sprockets... On way home from shops decided to play with the gear shifter barrel, only stupid me was turning it clockwise and up-shifting was surprisingly getting worse! :oops: :lol:
    Now, i know this does happen, but the indexing screws shouldn't move and you shouldn't need to ever touch them again once set up right? Unless of course you change to a different size cassette for example.
    Felt F1 2014
    Felt Z6 2012
    Red Arthur Caygill steel frame
    Tall....
    www.seewildlife.co.uk
  • elbowloh
    elbowloh Posts: 7,078
    Ryan_W wrote:
    Specced an built this from frame up:

    46625967395_3b8c29ef9a_b.jpg
    This thread is for fettling. A complete build isn't a fettle... :wink:
    Felt F1 2014
    Felt Z6 2012
    Red Arthur Caygill steel frame
    Tall....
    www.seewildlife.co.uk
  • cougie
    cougie Posts: 22,512
    HowardV wrote:
    itboffin wrote:
    HowardV wrote:
    Planet X CNC Brakes.

    Whilst these are great value, light weight brakes, they have developed a reputation of being difficult to set-up/center and therefore get accurate & repeatable performance. In addition, as they are no longer available it means that most users will either have owned them for a number of years or recently purchased them 2nd hand.


    Yes most definitely, i had two sets, sold one and now have the other front only on my single speed the rear is seized!

    Just posted new topic ref the rebuild.
    Full photo set on Pinterest https://www.pinterest.co.uk/9a5e964c32f ... e-rebuild/

    I liked the CNC brakes - they work ok - but I found the bolts are made of cheese. Swapped out for SRAM.
  • itboffin
    itboffin Posts: 20,052
    oh dear i've completely forgotten which of the saddle fore/aft positions stops you sliding forward on the bike !?!?!?

    i have all my settings from my session with the bike whispers which i still use but not on my SS, in part because my 2-3 mile commute each way didnt need a comfortable set up and part because i rode my SS sat up in London not on the drops and didnt really notice sliding forward.
    Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
  • wolfsbane2k
    wolfsbane2k Posts: 3,056
    Fixed a puncture on a 12" wheel.... With "help" from the bikes rider...

    Still, got to start them somewhere!
    Intent on Cycling Commuting on a budget, but keep on breaking/crashing/finding nice stuff to buy.
    Bike 1 (Broken) - Bike 2(Borked) - Bike 3(broken spokes) - Bike 4( Needs Work) - Bike 5 (in bits) - Bike 6* ...
  • ugo.santalucia
    ugo.santalucia Posts: 28,272
    Fitted aero bars with folding pads and SPD pedals for the incoming big Audax rides :-)
    left the forum March 2023
  • gbsahne001
    gbsahne001 Posts: 1,973
    swapped a 42T chain ring for a 48T; meant to do it a year or so ago but forgot to. Somehow managed to get the front mech working on a 48-32-22 arrangement.
    Winter Hack
    Everyday Commuter
  • luv2ride
    luv2ride Posts: 2,367
    Spent yesterday evening and this morning finally fitting my 3T Ernova carbon bars and ARX stem to the CR1. Whilst i was at it, did a complete cable outer and inner change (first new cables since bike was built 4 years ago?), and fitted new bar tape.

    First ride out to test this afternoon. I couldn't believe how much road buzz the bars dial out, had to keep reminding myself was on 25mm tyres rather than the plumped-up-to-30mm Conti GP4000ii's I have on the disc bike. Secondly, had forgotten how slick and light the Sram Force shifting could be!

    Adding the great weather into the mix, a bloody lovely ride round the lanes of Malmesbury etc. Now need some Ernovas for the disc bike, but CRC/Wiggle currently out of stock of them in my size :roll:

    ....wasnt quite expecting the Ernovas to be that good...
    Titus Silk Road Ti rigid 29er - Scott Solace 10 disc - Kinesis Crosslight Pro6 disc - Scott CR1 SL - Pinnacle Arkose X 650b - Pinnacle Arkose singlespeed - Specialized Singlecross...& an Ernie Ball Musicman Stingray 4 string...
  • tgotb
    tgotb Posts: 4,714
    Finished installing and commissioning new boiler, hot water cylinder and associated gubbins. Meant that I got to spend the hottest Easter on record indoors, much of it with the heating on full blast...
    Pannier, 120rpm.
  • poptart242
    poptart242 Posts: 531
    New bar tape, wheels and tyres for the partner's summer bike (retreating from tubeless back to tubes)

    New 11-30t cassette and assorted shifting fettling for me, along with summer tyres and new brake discs too.

    And a super-bling and completely unnecessary purple cassette lock ring just because I was there.
  • itboffin
    itboffin Posts: 20,052
    needed to re-tape the bars on my FGSS so took the opportunity to do a reverse wrap negating the need for electrical tape to hold the ends in place, if it stays i'll be switch all my bike to that method as is look ace, very clean.
    Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
  • asprilla
    asprilla Posts: 8,440
    I've used tubeless tyres for a few years now, flirting with them about 10 years ago and migrating almost all my wheels to tubeless last year.

    Much as I love them mounting tyres has been the bane of my life, with much sweat and many expletives expelled, and occasionally an Airshock canister booted down the garden.

    Tonight I used a Topeak Booster pump that I bought to replace my aging Joe Blow.

    Total game changer.

    A tyre I repaired and remounted three months ago which has hung forlornly uninflated since because I couldn't get it to reseat went up in 30s without any sealant.

    This is a revelation. If tubeless tyre and wheel manufacturers want this to work they don't need standardisation or new designs; they just need to issue everyone with a Topeak Booster pump.
    Mud - Genesis Vapour CCX
    Race - Fuji Norcom Straight
    Sun - Cervelo R3
    Winter / Commute - Dolan ADX
  • redvee
    redvee Posts: 11,922
    Slowly trying to get rid of the creaking from the commute bike, last major attempt was ne bars a few weeks back which didn't work then new STI clamps which ahgain didn't work. Only other options are stem or forks, luckily I have a pair of forks from the old frame but tonight I put a different stem on which although is 10mm longer will help eliminate another possible culprit.
    I've added a signature to prove it is still possible.
  • smokey_bacon
    smokey_bacon Posts: 1,639
    Impromptu bike fit with a plumb line and spirit level. Much much better this morning as a result.
  • tgotb
    tgotb Posts: 4,714
    Smokey Bacon wrote:
    Impromptu bike fit with a plumb line and spirit level. Much much better this morning as a result.
    :shock:

    Plumb line and spirit level work fine on the flat, but you're going to end up with a very weird position going up and down hills...
    Pannier, 120rpm.
  • smokey_bacon
    smokey_bacon Posts: 1,639
    TGOTB wrote:
    Smokey Bacon wrote:
    Impromptu bike fit with a plumb line and spirit level. Much much better this morning as a result.
    :shock:

    Plumb line and spirit level work fine on the flat, but you're going to end up with a very weird position going up and down hills...

    Had my reservations to before I tried it. Seems to have worked, rode some hills this morning to check it over and was fine. I suppose that does not say very much for the setup I had before.
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    Son arrived for Easter weekend with his bike in the boot. Then casually mentioned it had fallen over and broken the RH shifter. Peeling back the hood revealed the plastic shifter body was cracked through on both sides so it was free to pivot up and down. In the up position the shift levers weren't engaging the bits they needed to, so he'd been riding while holding the thing together :shock:

    Bit of Googling revealed that single 6800 shifters are getting hard to find outside of Ebay, and then they go for £80. More than that I could tell he wasn't keen on mucking about with the nice neat factory fresh colour coordinated bar tape.

    So we had a go at it with superglue. Which, after a couple of false starts and me gluing myself first to the shifter and then to myself, seems to have done the trick. We also glued a couple of strips of beer can across the cracks a bit like sutures to reinforce the repair. Hood rolled back down you'd never know.

    We did a couple of rides at the weekend involving some climbing and descending and the repair seems permanent. I've told him to check it every couple of weeks, but I know he won't.

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