Thread To Tell Everyone What Fettling You've Just Done
Comments
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Built up the pompino frame (with pompetamine - ie disk - fork) I've had in a box in my garage for 5 years. Used a mixture of new stuff and stuff nicked from other bikes. A little bit of a bodgetastic build but seems to run OK.
Front brake is the Shimano SLX off one of my MTBs, the hose is a bit long and my MTB will be wanting its brake back so at some point will get a cheap hydraulic brake to replace it. Rear brake is an Alivio v-brake and Avid lever that I bought new.
105 crankset that my brother gave me a while back when he upgraded his, 5 bolt 110bcd which I found out is an old BMX standard so picked up a cheap 44t off eBay which fits it perfectly and looks great - chuffed with that. Existing chainring nuts were only just short enough for the single ring (we're talking a fraction of a millimetre clearance) so will get some single ring specific ones for a bit of additional peace of mind.
Halo Clickster 16t freewheel, the chainline is very slightly off so need to get a spacer to sit behind the freewheel, it's close enough to run OK though.
Wheels are both new from Merlin, a Mach track wheel at the rear and a chosen disk hub laced to Alex rim at the front. They seem fine, front wheel flexing a bit (judging by disk rub noises) when I honk out the saddle but then I do weigh a metric tonne - and it could be the fork tbf. They look good anyway, that's the main thing.
Saddle and post off my road bike, the post doesn't fit (a hair loose) and the seatclamp is also slightly loose, I've got it secure by clamping it with the little lip at the top of the clamp but need to sort that out soon. New cheapo flat bar (Funn Flame off CRC, will probably kill me one day) which is quite wide so may chop it down at some point. Stem off road bike.
Headset is an FSA one I bought with the frame, it was a cx one with weird cable guide thing for canti brakes, obvs no good to me as I'm using a hydraulic disk brake. So used the cap bit off my road bikes headset (also FSA) which is knackered. Couldn't get the headset satisfactorily fettled - either too stiff or a bit of play - so given I bought it 5 years ago, if it doesn't last long I'll just buy a new one and probably get LBS to fit it!
Cheap BMX plastic platforms for now and MTB lock-on grips. Have SKS guards and a rear rack to fit but ran out of time and energy. Maiden commute tomorrow so fingers crossed it makes it in one piece!0 -
Bit of WD40 in the garage lock, key turns beautifully now0
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Gallywomack wrote:Built up the pompino frame (with pompetamine - ie disk - fork) I've had in a box in my garage for 5 years. Used a mixture of new stuff and stuff nicked from other bikes. A little bit of a bodgetastic build but seems to run OK.
Front brake is the Shimano SLX off one of my MTBs, the hose is a bit long and my MTB will be wanting its brake back so at some point will get a cheap hydraulic brake to replace it. Rear brake is an Alivio v-brake and Avid lever that I bought new.
105 crankset that my brother gave me a while back when he upgraded his, 5 bolt 110bcd which I found out is an old BMX standard so picked up a cheap 44t off eBay which fits it perfectly and looks great - chuffed with that. Existing chainring nuts were only just short enough for the single ring (we're talking a fraction of a millimetre clearance) so will get some single ring specific ones for a bit of additional peace of mind.
Halo Clickster 16t freewheel, the chainline is very slightly off so need to get a spacer to sit behind the freewheel, it's close enough to run OK though.
Wheels are both new from Merlin, a Mach track wheel at the rear and a chosen disk hub laced to Alex rim at the front. They seem fine, front wheel flexing a bit (judging by disk rub noises) when I honk out the saddle but then I do weigh a metric tonne - and it could be the fork tbf. They look good anyway, that's the main thing.
Saddle and post off my road bike, the post doesn't fit (a hair loose) and the seatclamp is also slightly loose, I've got it secure by clamping it with the little lip at the top of the clamp but need to sort that out soon. New cheapo flat bar (Funn Flame off CRC, will probably kill me one day) which is quite wide so may chop it down at some point. Stem off road bike.
Headset is an FSA one I bought with the frame, it was a cx one with weird cable guide thing for canti brakes, obvs no good to me as I'm using a hydraulic disk brake. So used the cap bit off my road bikes headset (also FSA) which is knackered. Couldn't get the headset satisfactorily fettled - either too stiff or a bit of play - so given I bought it 5 years ago, if it doesn't last long I'll just buy a new one and probably get LBS to fit it!
Cheap BMX plastic platforms for now and MTB lock-on grips. Have SKS guards and a rear rack to fit but ran out of time and energy. Maiden commute tomorrow so fingers crossed it makes it in one piece!
Frankenbike
It's alive, mwhaaahaaaa, it's aliiiiive!0 -
Got me in today anyway! The seatpost had sunk a bit by the time I got in so need to get the proper sized clamp ASAP. Have worked out why I couldn't get the headset fettled, it's because I'm not using the proper top cap for the headset so it's sitting on the cup rather than the bearing, ie there is friction between the metal caps/spacers rather than the top cap rotating with the steerer. Will put the proper top cap on with the superfluous cable guide and at some stage may grind it off. Otherwise, all very satisfactory. Felt undergeared but will probably be thankful of that on the way home. Loving the extra braking power.0
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Got any pics?Gallywomack wrote:Got me in today anyway! The seatpost had sunk a bit by the time I got in so need to get the proper sized clamp ASAP. Have worked out why I couldn't get the headset fettled, it's because I'm not using the proper top cap for the headset so it's sitting on the cup rather than the bearing, ie there is friction between the metal caps/spacers rather than the top cap rotating with the steerer. Will put the proper top cap on with the superfluous cable guide and at some stage may grind it off. Otherwise, all very satisfactory. Felt undergeared but will probably be thankful of that on the way home. Loving the extra braking power.0 -
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Aluminium coke/beer cans make excellent emergency shims. Cut the ends off with a Stanley knife, and then you can use scissors to turn the cylinder into a flat sheet and then cut off strips of the appropriate dimensions. Be careful not to cut your fingers on the sharp edges, and once you've fitted the shim(s) consider covering any exposed edges with electrical tape.Gallywomack wrote:The seatpost had sunk a bit by the time I got in so need to get the proper sized clamp ASAP.
I have at least two components that have been mounted permanently using this method, but probably better as a short-term fix before replacing with the correct size component...Pannier, 120rpm.0 -
First proper clean of the bike since I bought it - 600 miles ago - I've applied replacement lube, but not done a strip down clean ( wheels off, chain off, pedals/crankset off, but not the BB or derailleurs)
Turns out the rub I had on it was a tiny bit of leaf that was caught between the bottom bracket and the crank..
Through axles are so much easier, aren't they?Intent on Cycling Commuting on a budget, but keep on breaking/crashing/finding nice stuff to buy.
Bike 1 (Broken) - Bike 2(Borked) - Bike 3(broken spokes) - Bike 4( Needs Work) - Bike 5 (in bits) - Bike 6* ...0 -
thrown away the old rim tape for both wheels. Used Orange tubeless rim tape from Halfords. They're better than normal rim tape as they don't slide to one side after a while. I won't convert my wheels to tubeless and keep using good old fashioned inner tubes.
Months before that, paid a mechanic to cut my steerer tube shorter. Fit in a flat headset cover from Shapeways. Wish I asked them to make it 1mm shorter and it would had been perfect. Had to buy a 3mm spacer and put it underneath as the cover is too long. Its okay now.
Swapped the front brake pads. It was sintered. I've had enough of the pad making loud noises in the rain. Now I put in ceramic pads from eBay, I'm curious how they perform. And how it performs in the rain. The seller was Noel and Theo.0 -
Tightened the spokes and trued my rear aksium.
Actually, scratch that. Noticed the spokes were scarily loose, so tightened them until it seemed I could make it back home. Then dropped the wheel at my LBS and picked it tight and true the day after.
Also fitted the SKS raceblades. They seem to work, but rattle a lot on bumps. Will need to secure them better.0 -
Resealed my wheels and fitted new tubeless tyres.
OK, not the complete story.
Took six attempts to seal the front wheel and get it all air tight and two attempts to do the rear wheel/tyre.
The main problem seems to be the tyre valve DT Swiss supply with the wheels isn't really very compatible with them...but neither are the two other brands I tried. The issue is the valve hole is offset in the bed so the sealing plug bit of the valve doesn't sit square, and tightening the valve makes it worse. Ended up having to use "Shoe Goo" to seal/glue the valve in place.
And application of the rim tape is totally critical, again partly due to the offset spoke holes.
Learning every day.0 -
greenamex2 wrote:Resealed my wheels and fitted new tubeless tyres.
OK, not the complete story.
Took six attempts to seal the front wheel and get it all air tight and two attempts to do the rear wheel/tyre.
The main problem seems to be the tyre valve DT Swiss supply with the wheels isn't really very compatible with them...but neither are the two other brands I tried. The issue is the valve hole is offset in the bed so the sealing plug bit of the valve doesn't sit square, and tightening the valve makes it worse. Ended up having to use "Shoe Goo" to seal/glue the valve in place.
And application of the rim tape is totally critical, again partly due to the offset spoke holes.
Learning every day.
I just learned that I'm not ready to try tubeless...0 -
keef66 wrote:greenamex2 wrote:Resealed my wheels and fitted new tubeless tyres.
OK, not the complete story.
Took six attempts to seal the front wheel and get it all air tight and two attempts to do the rear wheel/tyre.
The main problem seems to be the tyre valve DT Swiss supply with the wheels isn't really very compatible with them...but neither are the two other brands I tried. The issue is the valve hole is offset in the bed so the sealing plug bit of the valve doesn't sit square, and tightening the valve makes it worse. Ended up having to use "Shoe Goo" to seal/glue the valve in place.
And application of the rim tape is totally critical, again partly due to the offset spoke holes.
Learning every day.
I just learned that I'm not ready to try tubeless...
They are fantastic when they work, a nightmare when they don't.
The last front tire I had at least four punctures I knew nothing about and held decent pressure for weeks at a time. Until the valve 'unsealed' and started leaking air through the wheel.0 -
Put a new set of Schwalbe Winter's on a cheap set of wheels built up in the autumn, and set them up on the cross bike ready for the commute.
Stay safe out there people....0 -
New bars fitted last night and finished off this morning and silence from the bike on the test ride till a spoke nipple went ping and decided to hide in the rim, strangely the front wheel isn't that far out of true so will keep using it till the weekend.I've added a signature to prove it is still possible.0
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greenamex2 wrote:keef66 wrote:greenamex2 wrote:Resealed my wheels and fitted new tubeless tyres.
OK, not the complete story.
Took six attempts to seal the front wheel and get it all air tight and two attempts to do the rear wheel/tyre.
The main problem seems to be the tyre valve DT Swiss supply with the wheels isn't really very compatible with them...but neither are the two other brands I tried. The issue is the valve hole is offset in the bed so the sealing plug bit of the valve doesn't sit square, and tightening the valve makes it worse. Ended up having to use "Shoe Goo" to seal/glue the valve in place.
And application of the rim tape is totally critical, again partly due to the offset spoke holes.
Learning every day.
I just learned that I'm not ready to try tubeless...
They are fantastic when they work, a nightmare when they don't.
The last front tire I had at least four punctures I knew nothing about and held decent pressure for weeks at a time. Until the valve 'unsealed' and started leaking air through the wheel.
Given the faff involved, I really don't see the point. I'm hugely tempting fate here, but I didn't have a puncture at all in the last 12 months. That's 7000 miles of commuting through central London without one, on not particularly puncture resistant tyres (Continental Grand Prix on one bike, Gatorskin rear, Ultra Sport II front on the other one). The Ultra Sport II tyre has no puncture resistant layer at all. I also got through a pair of Conti Top Touring tyres a few years ago (which have no puncture protection), with only 2 punctures the whole time I had them.
My theory is that I use tyres with a minimum 28c section. The wider the tyre, the more comfortable it is, and the larger the contact patch, and hence the less likely they are to puncture.
Yes - I get punctures from time to time, but is it really that much bother to deal with one? Life's too short to deal with horrible Schwalbe Marathons, or having to fit tubeless tyres to rims that really don't want to take them.....1938 Hobbs Tandem
1956 Carlton Flyer Path/Track
1960 Mercian Superlight Track
1974 Pete Luxton Path/Track*
1980 Harry Hall
1986 Dawes Galaxy
1988 Jack Taylor Tourer
1988 Pearson
1989 Condor
1993 Dawes Hybrid
2016 Ridley Helium SL
*Currently on this0 -
redvee wrote:New bars fitted last night and finished off this morning and silence from the bike on the test ride till a spoke nipple went ping and decided to hide in the rim, strangely the front wheel isn't that far out of true so will keep using it till the weekend.
Fitted new spoke Sunday and just wound the nipple down the spoke a few turns to give it some tension and thought I'd give the wheel a spin and flooked it by getting the tension near enough when gauging it by eye only. Two minutes to sort the spoke and nipple and out ten minutes to strip the wheel down, tyre and tube off, remove rim tape and insulation tape underneath then remove disc rotor too and then put it all back on.I've added a signature to prove it is still possible.0 -
I finally worked out why my rear caliper (Campagnolo Chorus dual-pivot 2011) has been not springing back, despite me ultrasonic-cleaning, stripping down greasing and reassembling a few times over the past few months. Yes, it has done 37,000 miles over 3 frames, and yes the mating surfaces and washer-faces are a bit pitted and rough in places. But the cause was none of those things.
The spring passes over a rubber/teflon "u" thingy, and close inspection revealed that this had worn down so the brake-return spring was instead trying to slide over (and wear away) bare metal.
New thingy ordered!Dolan Titanium ADX 2016
Ridley Noah FAST 2013
Bottecchia/Campagnolo 1990
Carrera Parva Hybrid 2016
Hoy Sa Calobra 002 2014 [off duty]
Storck Absolutist 2011 [off duty]
http://www.slidingseat.net/cycling/cycling.html0 -
Not my fettling I suppose, but V68 fitted a replacement spoke to my plastic front wheel. As soon as I get round to applying new rim tape, and fitting a tyre and tube, I'll be sporting matching wheels again. So, probably April...
A wheel truing stand is a mighty fine thing though. I wonder where I could hide such a thing.
Also fixed sketchy sticky shifting from 4th to 5th cog at the rear simply by cleaning the bike a bit. :oops:0 -
Just replaced the brake blocks on my commuter, ultegra blocks/pads on campagnolo calipers.
Also had a go at truing both wheels, but i'm really not very good at it. It's better than it was, but can't seem to get it perfect. I do all my own maintenance and built my best bike up myself, but wheels seem like a dark art to me.0 -
Replaced a low end Shimano Hollowtech 2 BB on a friend's bike as he was getting a clicking sound when pedalling with one of the Ultegra R8000 offerings with the smaller cups. Took the tools and was expecting a battle to get the old one out but less than 1/4 turn on each cup and they were loose enough to spin out by hand. To me that seems the likely cause but as we had the new one ready it went strtaight in and job done in 15 minutes.I've added a signature to prove it is still possible.0
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Finally fitted the mudguards to my 'new' steed over the weekend - quite possibly my least favourite job. Also cut down the bars to a more reasonable 610mm. There are more things I need to fettle - defo need to sort chainline, the rack not being level is bugging me, ditto that little space where the front of the front mudguard isn't hugging the tyre, I'm not completely happy with the position although cutting the bars helped - but she's basically there. A bloomin heavy, fairly noisy beast but hopefully ideal for what I need it for, which is to get me into town and back, be locked up outside without getting nicked or rapidly falling apart, and be reasonably comfortable yet fun to ride.
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Slow puncture on the way home last night; the tyre was on its last legs, so I decided to fit the new one I had ready.
Brand new Durano Plus are awkward to fit at the best of times; they're not very tyre-shaped as they come out of the box, so it can be awkward to get them round the wheel. Turns out to be quite a lot harder when they've been soaking in the freezing cold of your garage all night...Pannier, 120rpm.0 -
Done some quite advanced fettling (by my standards) recently.
Fitted a new right hand shifter on MTB no.1 - the original had gone a bit wobbly and I figured it was probably due an upgrade having ridden the thing for 25 years. New cassette, chain and jockey wheels on MTB no.2.
Managed to strip down two Campag Khamsin rear hubs, realised the pawl spring in both had failed so fitted new spring, regreased and reassembled. Also stripped down an Aksium hub to regrease the bushing on the freehub - hopefully that will get rid of the death screech!
Next job will be to replace the bottom bracket bearings on the commuter and fit a new chain, will hopefully get rid of the clicking or sort the shifting. Only other explanation is a bent mech hangar after a driveside off a couple of weeks ago, but shifting was bad before that so I'm hoping a new chain will sort it.0 -
Managed to lose a screw from my Ortlieb bag that the support rail is attached with, luckily I stripped the old pannier down when it died so used one of the spare screws and caps though I suspect a rotor bolt and locknut would suffice too.I've added a signature to prove it is still possible.0
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I have not reduced the pedal tension on one of my pedals becase I did not have a clipless moment tonight caused by new cleats and overly tight tension :oops:I've added a signature to prove it is still possible.0
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TGOTB wrote:Slow puncture on the way home last night; the tyre was on its last legs, so I decided to fit the new one I had ready.
Brand new Durano Plus are awkward to fit at the best of times; they're not very tyre-shaped as they come out of the box, so it can be awkward to get them round the wheel. Turns out to be quite a lot harder when they've been soaking in the freezing cold of your garage all night...
Yeah, they are very tight...left the forum March 20230 -
redvee wrote:Replaced a low end Shimano Hollowtech 2 BB on a friend's bike as he was getting a clicking sound when pedalling with one of the Ultegra R8000 offerings with the smaller cups. Took the tools and was expecting a battle to get the old one out but less than 1/4 turn on each cup and they were loose enough to spin out by hand. To me that seems the likely cause but as we had the new one ready it went strtaight in and job done in 15 minutes.
But you still took the credit for the now silent transmission presumably?
I still have a 5600 BB that I replaced 6 years ago cos it was clicking, but in the hand the bearings still feel smooth so it's in the spares drawer. I'm impressed that the 6600 replacement is still going strong despite the fact it's on the winter / wet weather bike0 -
I have a box of Hollowtech BBs that I removed because they were clicking, only to discover that the clicking was still happening and clearly caused by something else. Every time I think my BB has started clicking again, the existence of this box is magically erased from my memory, and I buy another one...keef66 wrote:I still have a 5600 BB that I replaced 6 years ago cos it was clicking, but in the hand the bearings still feel smooth so it's in the spares drawer. I'm impressed that the 6600 replacement is still going strong despite the fact it's on the winter / wet weather bikePannier, 120rpm.0 -
Update on my "change to new chain whenever cassette reaches 0.5% elongation" experiment.
I've just fitted 1/2-chain no. 3, and the cassette has done 2,700 miles, and all has been working fine up to now. My longest recorded single-chain cassette reached 2,900 miles, so I hope this cassettte still has a looong way to go.Dolan Titanium ADX 2016
Ridley Noah FAST 2013
Bottecchia/Campagnolo 1990
Carrera Parva Hybrid 2016
Hoy Sa Calobra 002 2014 [off duty]
Storck Absolutist 2011 [off duty]
http://www.slidingseat.net/cycling/cycling.html0
