Thread To Tell Everyone What Fettling You've Just Done

mrfpb

After a puncture during the week I decided to put gravel tyres on the CdF. I couldn't use the original 35mm tyres with the SKS mudgrluards due to rub on the tyre rim. I tried 28mm - still got rim rub. I looked at the mudguards and saw its the "pinched in" section of mudguards that goes at the top of the fork that is the issue, I used hot water and two sets of pliers to "unpinch" the offending section and - Yay - it worked I now have 28mm front, 35mm rear.

Now I'm looking at the clearance and wondering if 650b x 45mm might fit. Anyone tried this on a Croix de Fer?

luv2ride

Fitted Ultegra r8000 crankset on the Solace. Having a bit of a 'mare setting up the front derailleur. Cut test ride short due to chain rub and took it into LBS for them to trim properly (I've always struggled trimming the 6800 mech). They got drivetrain working great in the workstand, but no real improvement when back out riding Think I'm going to change the front mech to a r8000 unit as the LBS mech said they're much easier to dial in extra cable tension...

itboffin

what is the deal with front mechs, i could not get a 4700 setup up with enough clearance for my liking, to be honest its what's putting me off going 11 speed

itboffin

mind you that said 11 speed campag was a doddle

luv2ride

itboffin wrote:

what is the deal with front mechs, i could not get a 4700 setup up with enough clearance for my liking, to be honest its what's putting me off going 11 speed

Know what you mean. My 10 speed Sram Force is silent, the 11 speed Shimano has always been temperamental. Got it running quiet with a new Ultegra cassette, but am suffering from the chain "rasping" on the front mech plates in certain cogs since the new chainset went on. Shouldn't be this difficult to resolve, so new mech it is :roll: Current 6800 mech arm is only a couple of mm away from the rear tyre (28mm GP 4000s ii come up as 32mm on my new wheels), so the new r8000 version gives way more clearance too, apparently...

tonysj

Decided to put a wider range cassette on my trusty Btwin triban 520 winter road bike. It's a triple with a 12 -25 9 speed cassette. Straight swap for an 11 - 32 cassette. I don't use the 30 tooth front ring so the new cassette just opens up the bikes hill climbing ability. Great change for less than £15 ; )

itboffin

Luv2ride wrote:

itboffin wrote:

what is the deal with front mechs, i could not get a 4700 setup up with enough clearance for my liking, to be honest its what's putting me off going 11 speed

Know what you mean. My 10 speed Sram Force is silent, the 11 speed Shimano has always been temperamental. Got it running quiet with a new Ultegra cassette, but am suffering from the chain "rasping" on the front mech plates in certain cogs since the new chainset went on. Shouldn't be this difficult to resolve, so new mech it is :roll: Current 6800 mech arm is only a couple of mm away from the rear tyre (28mm GP 4000s ii come up as 32mm on my new wheels), so the new r8000 version gives way more clearance too, apparently...

can you put an R8000 front mech on 6800 or even 6700?

smokey_bacon

Simple but effective change of cleats has bought silence to my ride again, very happy!

red.rider

itboffin wrote:

can you put an R8000 front mech on 6800 or even 6700?

R8000 is compatible with 6800 shifters. I'm planning the same upgrade, because aero bars prevent me using an inline tension adjuster.

R8000-FD is not compatible with the 10-speed 6700 shifters, though.

Compatibility is listed here: http://productinfo.shimano.com/#/com/3.7?cid=C-453&acid=C-455

redvee

Given the creaking noises coming from the bars recently I loosened the STI clamps and wiggled the levers then re-tightened them, a quick test in the kitchen/lounge/workshop was silent when pressing down on the STI units.

asprilla

Asprilla wrote:

Finally fixed my squeeking bottom bracket. I've changed the BB, pedals and crankset with no joy, but yesterday I changed the wheelset.

Silence.

I have a cunning suspicion that when I remove the cassette from the old wheelset there will be a comedy boing noise and bits will fly off the hub in all directions.

Turns out this wasn't the fix. However, I think I finally fixed the squeak from the BB last night by tightening the headset bung.

Also cleaned the drive train last night: turns out my jockey wheels are only half the size I thought they were. The rest was gunk. Gear changes are all over the shop now though and I can't get into the largest sprocket.

keef66

Asprilla wrote:

Also cleaned the drive train last night: turns out my jockey wheels are only half the size I thought they were. The rest was gunk. Gear changes are all over the shop now though and I can't get into the largest sprocket.

You need to be careful with this cleaning malarkey. I once took a mucky chain off to marinate it in white spirit, and when I fished it out the following day the missing link had fallen to bits. I could only conclude the grit had been the only thing holding it together, and so protecting my testicles from a nasty landing on the top-tube :shock:

That was the point I abandoned liberal application of the gooey wet lube in favour of frequent but very sparing use of a light oil

roger_merriman

Tighten the headset so hopefully no more juddering, really should of sorted that before coming down MT Teide it though it hadn't noticeably juddered before that I guess 23 miles of descending can do that!

6wheels

How long did it take you to get up it?

roger_merriman

6wheels wrote:

How long did it take you to get up it?

Ah quite slowly really! Just a shade under 4hrs the fast ones do it 2hrs ish, which is insanely quick!

6wheels

Think I'd need my legs fettling before I attempted that climb!

roger_merriman

6wheels wrote:

Think I'd need my legs fettling before I attempted that climb!

Its never truly steep, can't imagine it gets into double figures grade wise at any point, as long as you pace yourself it is quite doable.

rhodrich

Ah - Mt Teide. The toughest climb of my life! The temperature was in the mid 30's at the base, and the biggest problem was running out of water. Once you get half way up, there is nowhere to stop to fill up the bidons. 2200 metres of climbing from the bottom, which is about 1000m more than anything you'll find in mainland Europe (all the cols in the Alps and Pyrenees start at about 1000m, whereas Mt Teide starts at sea level).
I'd hired a Cervelo to do it. Super stiff frame with brakes the wrong way round, plus 23mm tyres meant for a very tiring descent. Almost had vibration white finger by the bottom.

Still - great day out, and highly recommended! 3hrs 18 mins for me for this segment. B+ could do better! https://www.strava.com/segments/9310270

roger_merriman

Rhodrich wrote:

Ah - Mt Teide. The toughest climb of my life! The temperature was in the mid 30's at the base, and the biggest problem was running out of water. Once you get half way up, there is nowhere to stop to fill up the bidons. 2200 metres of climbing from the bottom, which is about 1000m more than anything you'll find in mainland Europe (all the cols in the Alps and Pyrenees start at about 1000m, whereas Mt Teide starts at sea level).
I'd hired a Cervelo to do it. Super stiff frame with brakes the wrong way round, plus 23mm tyres meant for a very tiring descent. Almost had vibration white finger by the bottom.

Still - great day out, and highly recommended! 3hrs 18 mins for me for this segment. B+ could do better! https://www.strava.com/segments/9310270

Having done both, the way up from El Medano is much nicer, route and even less traffic.

The heat was why I set off at 5:30 in the morning, I’d taken a good light, to give myself the option to do that. I did use two bottles even so, being a gravel bike coming down was fine, though I didn’t push my luck, do get some interesting driving from the tourist and locals!

https://www.strava.com/activities/1945023945

cougie

Some fettling I will do tomorrow. Worked out why my tyre had gone flat. Bloody cat decided I'd bought him a novelty scratching post. Three separate punctures at least.

rower63

Historically I've always changed chain and cassette together, when the chain has significantly exceeded 0.75% elongation by my "stretch tool", or around 2500 miles. But this is expensive on cassettes, so I decided to experiment. The most common advice seems to suggest replacing the chain when it gets to 0.5% (at that level on tool it's actually 0.4% by my measurement, so quite conservative). They say the cassette should then last 3-4 chains.
I've just done this for the first time, and the new chain skips teeth on the old cassette roughly once every 20-30 turns.
Experiment fails - back to 1 cassette per chain.

keef66

I've always managed at least 3 chains to a cassette. Never had an issue myself, but I've read that a new chain on a worn cassette can take a couple of rides to settle in completely.

Is it possible the new chain has a stiff link?

timothyw

Yeah, you might just need to put up with it for a couple of rides - it will bed-in and the chain will stop slipping.

If it hasn't sorted itself out after a couple of rides then swap the cassette too.

fenix

+1 on the giving it some time to bed in.

wolfsbane2k

Quick front hydraulic disc brake bleed and position fettle, as I couldn't get the pads to sit clear of the discs.

Will be doing the rear this evening after a test ride, I'm not going to do both at the same time..

redvee

Wolfsbane2k wrote:

Quick front hydraulic disc brake bleed and position fettle, as I couldn't get the pads to sit clear of the discs.

You did push the pads back in the calliper first? I did a mates bike and used a screwdriver on the old pads before I replaced them then pumped the lever till the travel was reduced.

UndercoverElephant

redvee wrote:

Wolfsbane2k wrote:

Quick front hydraulic disc brake bleed and position fettle, as I couldn't get the pads to sit clear of the discs.

You did push the pads back in the calliper first? I did a mates bike and used a screwdriver on the old pads before I replaced them then pumped the lever till the travel was reduced.

Also, when you’re bleeding the brakes, make sure that all pistons are moving by putting the spacers in one side at a time (pushing the pistons back after each time). If they’re still rubbing, push the disk against the side which touches first as you’re gently pulling the lever, this will encourage the other piston to increase its travel.

Hope have some good videos for this stuff:

https://www.hopetech.com/how-to-videos/

wolfsbane2k

redvee wrote:

Wolfsbane2k wrote:

Quick front hydraulic disc brake bleed and position fettle, as I couldn't get the pads to sit clear of the discs.

You did push the pads back in the calliper first? I did a mates bike and used a screwdriver on the old pads before I replaced them then pumped the lever till the travel was reduced.

I didn't the first time I tried to fix the problem a few days ago, but did this time. Definitely a lot easier after doing that.

wolfsbane2k

UndercoverElephant wrote:

redvee wrote:

Wolfsbane2k wrote:

Quick front hydraulic disc brake bleed and position fettle, as I couldn't get the pads to sit clear of the discs.

You did push the pads back in the calliper first? I did a mates bike and used a screwdriver on the old pads before I replaced them then pumped the lever till the travel was reduced.

Also, when you’re bleeding the brakes, make sure that all pistons are moving by putting the spacers in one side at a time (pushing the pistons back after each time). If they’re still rubbing, push the disk against the side which touches first as you’re gently pulling the lever, this will encourage the other piston to increase its travel.

Hope have some good videos for this stuff:

https://www.hopetech.com/how-to-videos/

Aye, I've got the epicbleedsolutions set, which seems to do the job - found one of their videos's for shimano brakes.

rower63

keef66 wrote:

I've always managed at least 3 chains to a cassette. Never had an issue myself, but I've read that a new chain on a worn cassette can take a couple of rides to settle in completely.

TimothyW wrote:

Yeah, you might just need to put up with it for a couple of rides - it will bed-in and the chain will stop slipping. If it hasn't sorted itself out after a couple of rides then swap the cassette too.

Fenix wrote:

+1 on the giving it some time to bed in.

Thanks for the benefit of your experience - exactly the responses I was hoping for. I rode in on it again this morning and it was a lot better, only 3 skips in 19 miles. Will persevere...