Thread To Tell Everyone What Fettling You've Just Done

tgotb

itboffin wrote:

What's up with token? i had a 24mm ceramic type jobby and it was amazing until i used it to death

Dunno. I had a 24mm non-ceramic BB, and it went clicky/crunchy within a few hundred miles. Frame was properly faced etc. I replaced it with a cheap Shimano (105?) that lasted for thousands of miles...

itboffin

Removed the axle from a custom built rear wheel using a Planet X superlight campag hub, i've not come across that configuration of axle and bearings before, only the 6902RU against the freehub body needs replacing, brown and rough, the paws are also brown and no amount of degreaser blasting could get it all out, i'm hoping a new bearing and a mostly cleaned set of paws should give the wheel a bit more life.

I didnt take the small end bearing out as the run smoothly and look clean, out of interest i'd like to know how to do that, i think they're Novotech hubs.

Also taught my wife how to change an inner tube and find the culprit.

Finally replaced the bathroom toilet inners with one of those dual flush button jobs, I HATE plastic fittings grrrrr, needless to say i'm fully expecting to call out a plumber to fix my bodge job.

itboffin

Oh yes i also stripped and cleaned the CAAD12 wheels and drivetrain for the first time since building it, centered the rear pads and adjusted cable pull, super clean super quiet with perfect shifting.

I give it an hour of riding tops before something makes a noise

david7m

Wrong thread.
Dave

tgotb

itboffin wrote:

I didnt take the small end bearing out as the run smoothly and look clean, out of interest i'd like to know how to do that, i think they're Novotech hubs.

Assume you mean the non-drive side bearing in the hub (as opposed to one of the bearings inside the freehub)? If so, on every Novatec hub I've ever owned you reinsert the axle and use that to gently tap out the bearing from the opposite side with a hammer and a bit of scrap wood to protect the end of the axle. It's not good for the bearing, but you were going to replace it anyway. I have a home-made bearing press (threaded rod, old bearings, washers and nuts) to put it all back together.

Freehub bearings I normally tap out with a punch. Try to keep them relatively straight as they come out, otherwise they tend to jam.

itboffin

ordered replacement bearings 4pm yesterday from Simply bearings and they arrived this morning, standard delivery. Awesome!!!!

Anyway bearing replaced and the wheel is good as new, if in need of a little truing, now to learn how to do that

prawny

Replaced my rear cable outer yesterday, cost me £4 and 20 minutes and solved a shifting issue that has been bothering me for 3+ months. God knows why I didn't try it sooner, I just refused to believe that it would be something so simple

itboffin

talking of gear outers, do internal routed cables use outers or just that thin guide liner?

elbowloh

itboffin wrote:

talking of gear outers, do internal routed cables use outers or just that thin guide liner?

did you say guyliner?

tgotb

itboffin wrote:

talking of gear outers, do internal routed cables use outers or just that thin guide liner?

Depends. Some have a thin (carbon?) tube inside the frame which you just thread the inner through; some have a much thicker tube, through which you thread a conventional outer.

My CX frames have a thick tube for the rear brake cable (presumably so you can use a hydraulic hose) and a thin one for the gear cable(s).

I've always been concerned that the thin tube would wear (as a conventional outer does), but never heard of one actually doing so, so maybe it's not an issue.

itboffin

I have TRP mechanical disc and used the TRP compressionless cables but i didnt do the install, so i'm guessing they had to leave the outers full length

timothyw

Yeah, most brake routing, particularly disk, has outer the full length so as to potentially accommodate hydraulic hose.

prawny

My Saracens didn't have a full length brake run for the cable disks justs stops where it went into and came out of the frame. Just for balance like.

Really there's only one way to find out for sure...

jstrang

After being caught in a very heavy rain shower there was a dreadful grinding coming from my headset. Short term fix was a squirt of wd40 which helped a little, so last night I took it all apart and gave the bearings a good clean and greased them.
Made a huge difference but I think new bearings. Maybe also a rigid fork as I don't need suspension...

smokey_bacon

Lunchtime fettle session to fit a new set of raceblade mudguards.

N0bodyOfTheGoat

Swapped Voodoo from 29*2.3"Vee Speedster and 26*4" Jumbo Jim to used pair of 700*28 Grand Sport Race.

Also lowered and flipped stem to negative, dropping bars ~6cm.

Yet to upload Strava, but commute in felt very quick, considering I have above the neck lurgy!

mrfpb

Gears slipping led to fettling with front and rear techs before deciding I needed new chainrings.
Bought a 34 and 46 as I was fed up with the 50/34 compact. Actually I've disliked it since first using it 4 years ago!
Once that was installed I had to undo all the previous mech fettling done previously.
Rode to work this morning and it was so quiet that I couldn't hear the shift from 34 to 46 and kept pushing the shifter, pushing the chain off!
It's so much nicer having the smaller gap between chainrings. Changing is no longer such an "event"
And I'm pretty sure I beat my previous best commute time. I'll have to check tonight.

itboffin

Yeah so erm routing your chain through the wrong bit of the rear mech does make a lot of noise and will wear the shite out of the chain and mech.

'Cause i'd NEVER do that .............

drhaggis

Of course! Only "your friend", who's a theoretical physicist and not allowed in the kitchen for a reason, would do that.

UndercoverElephant

Had a joyful ride on Thursday, where my rear mech was down to a choice of two gears and I mistimed a bunny hop up a kerb, deflating the rear tyre and breaking my rear mudguard. This meant I had a morning’s fettling which few would envy.

The Shimano R505 hydraulic shifters are remarkably difficult to swap a gear cable with. Follow that joy with fitting new mudguards and you know you’re in for a treat.

itboffin

why mudguards? it hasnt rained really down Sarf in months, oh wait .....

timothyw

I understand it's a good idea to change the rs505 cable guides if you are doing the cables, they're only a couple of quid and if they fail it can write off the shifter.

prawny

Ooh, top tip. I'll remember that if my new bike materialises.

I've just tried to breathe some life into my rear Aksium disc by following the GCN sealed bearing service video, popping the axle out, seals off, douse in degreaser then fresh grease and reassemble. Rode up and down the road a couple of times to check it was together properly, tomorrow will be the test because the council have tar and chipped the cul-de-sac and you can't hear anything other than that.

Also cleaned the old drivetrain and checked the chain stretch, should be ready for a new one in a month or so. Hopefully won't need to replace before the new bike arrives, we shall see.

itboffin

Repaired both of my joe blow sport II track pumps, both of which weren't showing pressure on the dial and pushed air back into the body raising the handle.

There are two tiny holes either side
poke those with a 1mm allen key then twist the top off, clean and if needed replace the o-ring at the bottom of the shaft, drizzle a tiny bit of chain lube around the o-ring and reattach.

Job done!

For me two renewed track pumps

itboffin

fitting an FSA PF30 to 24 bottom bracket, weird confusing instruction leaflet says not for PF30 yet it says PF30 on the BB

anyway, it went in just fine but the Shimano Tiagra cranks had a big arse gap and wobble, again instructions say wavy washer is for carbon cranks, aluminium not needed .......

so i put the thin nylon washer and wavy washer, no lateral play and turns smoothly.

I'm confused, do i need those washers and the instructions are pony or is this BB incompatible with Alu cranks?

redvee

Bought a Park chain cleaning gadget last week and gave the chain a clean with it today. Used similar things years ago and wasn't expecting it to be spotless but the Park one did the job and hardly any dribbles of cleaning solution escaped.

UndercoverElephant

itboffin wrote:

fitting an FSA PF30 to 24 bottom bracket, weird confusing instruction leaflet says not for PF30 yet it says PF30 on the BB

anyway, it went in just fine but the Shimano Tiagra cranks had a big ars* gap and wobble, again instructions say wavy washer is for carbon cranks, aluminium not needed .......

so i put the thin nylon washer and wavy washer, no lateral play and turns smoothly.

I'm confused, do i need those washers and the instructions are pony or is this BB incompatible with Alu cranks?

You should be fine with the wavy washer, the “only for carbon cranks” thing is for FSA cranks only.

itboffin

Seems okay so I'll give it a go, whats the worst that could happen

UndercoverElephant

itboffin wrote:

Seems okay so I'll give it a go, whats the worst that could happen

https://tenor.com/sTFA.gif

rhodrich

Replaced buckled front wheel rim with one I picked up at the Ripley cycle jumble on Saturday for a tenner. I've never done a spoke by spoke swap before - makes it super easy. Also bought a wheel dishing tool at Ripley, and used that too. Beats trying to get it just right by using the truing stand.

I'll stick with rim brakes for a while yet....