Thread To Tell Everyone What Fettling You've Just Done

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  • milemuncher1
    milemuncher1 Posts: 1,472
    dcQ35Gf.jpg

    Today I fitted a new triple crank set to my trusty old Triban 520.
  • milemuncher1
    milemuncher1 Posts: 1,472
    elbowloh wrote:
    Had a noisy creaking sound, seemingly coming from the BB area (PF30 with FSA reducer cups and Ultegra hollowtech 2 cranks). Took the cranks out and the cups, cleaned, re-greased and and re-assembled. Still getting a creak, but I don't think it's from this area anymore.

    Next step is to check the saddle/rails interface and the bottle cage bolts (where I've had this problem before and it does sound remarkably like a creaking BB).

    Drop some pressure out of the tyres and see if that helps, if it does, your rims could be knackered, also check all the spokes carefully, and try putting a bit of lube on the points where the spokes cross over each other, and a bit of lube on the Q.R. Skewers.
  • kingdav
    kingdav Posts: 417
    Don't forget cleat bolts and pedals, they can creak. Also I once had a cleat that shifted giving me a shoe/crank rub which had me scratching my head for a bit.
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    New chain and compact drop bars fitted to the CR1. New cushy bar tape and all new cables, both in white. It's properly transformed the look of the bike, but I think I'll have to be more careful with mucky fingers now.

    On the subject of which, just serviced and fitted new brake pads all round on my son's Audi, and in the process discovered a broken rear spring which I'm replacing tonight. MOT on Friday :shock:
  • itboffin
    itboffin Posts: 20,072
    mudcovered wrote:
    TGOTB wrote:
    Or just use the fact you're not wearing the rims out to justify buying decent kit. Cheap kit isn't designed to cope with heavy use; I recently read that the average bike is ridden less than 30 miles a year.
    I've had the same set of commuting wheels for ~5 years now. Ambrosio Excellight rims (very similar to Open Pro), and Novatec hubs; you could build a set today for well under £200. If the bearings in the hubs do go, they cost a couple of quid each and take minutes to replace.
    For disc brakes this is the approach to take. I've got a 20 year old disc braked MTB front wheel that has done over 10000 miles (including some horrible offroad conditions that have seen it totally submerged in water and partially submerged in peat bogs :)) and its still as good as new. Hub bearings have been serviced a few times but that's it. :) The rear wheel has had to have a new rim twice (but on one of those occasions it was after being rear-ended by a car at a junction). Again hub bearings serviced a few times but that's it.

    Mike

    10k miles in 20 years is super low mileage so they should be like new, unless you meant 100k miles
    Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
  • redvee
    redvee Posts: 11,922
    After totting up 1000 miles on the Full Monty things have settled in and now the bars/stem/shifters are creaking so I loosened them and torqued them up last night but still they creak, think I'll have to have another go but this time add some grease to the threads and stem clamp.
    I've added a signature to prove it is still possible.
  • itboffin
    itboffin Posts: 20,072
    pre Alps trip panic gearing changes, swapped my 52/36 for a 50/34 and straightened my mech hanger, shame about the 52 swap as I love that big gear, it really suits my low cadence style.

    I'm going to look at getting a 52/36 with an 11-32 for the mountains
    Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
  • milemuncher1
    milemuncher1 Posts: 1,472
    itboffin wrote:
    pre Alps trip panic gearing changes, swapped my 52/36 for a 50/34 and straightened my mech hanger, shame about the 52 swap as I love that big gear, it really suits my low cadence style.

    I'm going to look at getting a 52/36 with an 11-32 for the mountains


    I’ve got a 52/36 with an 11-30, on my 11 speed bike, and it’s been fine on the hills of the U.K, I’ve ridden recently. The extra couple of teeth on a 32 sprocket, would probably only be necessary on the continental climbs.
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    keef66 wrote:
    ... just serviced and fitted new brake pads all round on my son's Audi, and in the process discovered a broken rear spring which I'm replacing tonight. MOT on Friday :shock:

    Rear spring turns out to be Fisher-Price simple. Remove a bolt, lower suspension arm, replace spring, jack up arm, replace bolt. Sailed through the MOT with no advisories. 8)

    White bar tape now looking decidedly grubby; 60 mile charity ride yesterday meant lots of sticky stuff on fingers as I was fumbling jelly babies and chewy bars out of jersey pockets and slurping drink every 5 mins. Drank about 5 litres and still didn't need a pee!
  • itboffin
    itboffin Posts: 20,072
    Yeah it was hot and humid yesterday, it sucked the life out of me and i only avg 16 mph including a fair amounts of downhill, 2ltr and a can of fizzy pop
    Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
  • wolfsbane2k
    wolfsbane2k Posts: 3,056
    Quick pedal swap. 3rd set of decathlon pedals to disintegrate on me, this one at least managed 11 months and 14 days.
    Is it wrong to get a third pair for free under their 1 year warranty... ?
    Intent on Cycling Commuting on a budget, but keep on breaking/crashing/finding nice stuff to buy.
    Bike 1 (Broken) - Bike 2(Borked) - Bike 3(broken spokes) - Bike 4( Needs Work) - Bike 5 (in bits) - Bike 6* ...
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    Wolfsbane2k wrote:
    Quick pedal swap. 3rd set of decathlon pedals to disintegrate on me, this one at least managed 11 months and 14 days.
    Is it wrong to get a third pair for free under their 1 year warranty... ?

    Absolutely not! If they keep having to give you new pedals every year they might eventually take a look at the quality of the things. Keep at it!
  • wolfsbane2k
    wolfsbane2k Posts: 3,056
    keef66 wrote:
    Wolfsbane2k wrote:
    Quick pedal swap. 3rd set of decathlon pedals to disintegrate on me, this one at least managed 11 months and 14 days.
    Is it wrong to get a third pair for free under their 1 year warranty... ?

    Absolutely not! If they keep having to give you new pedals every year they might eventually take a look at the quality of the things. Keep at it!

    Guess that's true. For £24.99 for decathlon's PD-A530 pedal knock-offs, which I've seen at £30, and would have expected the 530s to last at least 3 years...
    Intent on Cycling Commuting on a budget, but keep on breaking/crashing/finding nice stuff to buy.
    Bike 1 (Broken) - Bike 2(Borked) - Bike 3(broken spokes) - Bike 4( Needs Work) - Bike 5 (in bits) - Bike 6* ...
  • UndercoverElephant
    UndercoverElephant Posts: 5,796
    Had some ropey shifting on the CR1 so last night a built myself a hanger alignment tool out of an extra fine pitch M10 bolt and a length of square steel tube. Next job is to use it on the hanger...

    [Edit] lovely shiftiness now.
    Sun - Rain - Snow
  • itboffin
    itboffin Posts: 20,072
    Finally got around to services in the bearings on my RS10 rear wheel, non drive side looked as new the drive side brown and pitted cones with worn bearings, i've cleaned and repacked them with grease but it still feels rough, so i guess its completely replace the axle, bearings and cones for £22 or replace completely for £50

    hmmmm what to do .....?
    Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
  • N0bodyOfTheGoat
    N0bodyOfTheGoat Posts: 6,071
    Finally got around to taking cassette off default Fulcrum rear wheel, putting it on the rear Hunt and fitting it to the Cube... Matching wheels again for the first time in a few weeks! Love the freewheel click, great for alerting people and animals to my presence, especially if I'm hurtling down a cat4 descent at speed.

    Also moved another 15mm of spacers above the stem, shoulders seemed happier on last night's ride.

    Tweaked the saddle tilt a fraction, to try and get the rearmost point and the bump just before the nose level... Still got a bit painful towards end of 3 hour ride, but the DHB bib short pad is quite thin.
    ================
    2020 Voodoo Marasa
    2017 Cube Attain GTC Pro Disc 2016
    2016 Voodoo Wazoo
  • smokey_bacon
    smokey_bacon Posts: 1,639
    Fitted the new narrower bars I got recently. Few laps of the garage to check lever position. Then fitted new bar tape. New bars feel much more comfortable.
  • joe_totale-2
    joe_totale-2 Posts: 1,333
    Whoever designed these mudguards had clearly never seen a 28mm tyre before or was playing a sick joke:

    https://www.giant-bicycles.com/gb/speed ... per-fender

    Attacked my set with some pliers to flare out the metal parts and now my 28mm tyres fit fine with no rubbing. Took it out for a ride on Wednesday evening and all seemed good despite me hitting some small potholes on purpose to test the guards out.

    BTW also set up the bike tubeless with Hutchinson Sector 28's which are a cracking tyre and I'm loving the low pressures you can run tubeless at. The whole tubeless setting up process was a piece of cake.

    I'm really happy that my winter bike's all sorted out now given all this wintry weather we've had recently!
    Probably will use the thing for Dunwich Dynamo this weekend given it's more relaxed than the summer bike.
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    itboffin wrote:
    Finally got around to services in the bearings on my RS10 rear wheel, non drive side looked as new the drive side brown and pitted cones with worn bearings, i've cleaned and repacked them with grease but it still feels rough, so i guess its completely replace the axle, bearings and cones for £22 or replace completely for £50

    hmmmm what to do .....?

    That's funny, I've got a pair of those and last time I stripped them the front hub was still factory fresh, along with the NDS rear. The DS rear was as you describe; full of brown sludge, and showing signs of pitting on both the cone and the cup. Cleaned, regreased and fitted new bearings, and spent ages getting the adjustment spot on. It's functional but still feels a bit rough.

    If the rim was worn out I'd just bin the whole thing, but the brake track is still showing the wear indicators and I've double checked the thickness with my little dental gauge and there's plenty of metal there. 11 years old, but I hate chucking out stuff that still works. Is there a cost-effective hub swap? Would replacing just the pitted cone make them 50% smoother?

    Or should I suppress my Yorkshire thrift and take the opportunity to replace them with some wider, tubeless handbuilts, possibly with a front dyno hub...?
  • wolfsbane2k
    wolfsbane2k Posts: 3,056
    Creaking from the drivetrain isolated down to stuffing pedals yet again. Squirted the crank/peda thread clean with some gt85 and paper toweling, quite suprised at the amount of grit that came out, considering I completely degraded and cleaned the thread 3 weeks ago with a toothbrush before applying Teflon based anti seized to the new pedals.
    Intent on Cycling Commuting on a budget, but keep on breaking/crashing/finding nice stuff to buy.
    Bike 1 (Broken) - Bike 2(Borked) - Bike 3(broken spokes) - Bike 4( Needs Work) - Bike 5 (in bits) - Bike 6* ...
  • wolfsbane2k
    wolfsbane2k Posts: 3,056
    Wolfsbane2k wrote:
    Creaking from the drivetrain isolated down to stuffing pedals yet again. Squirted the crank/peda thread clean with some gt85 and paper toweling, quite suprised at the amount of grit that came out, considering I completely degraded and cleaned the thread 3 weeks ago with a toothbrush before applying Teflon based anti seized to the new pedals.

    Yep, I've returned to being able to hear my knees creaking.
    Intent on Cycling Commuting on a budget, but keep on breaking/crashing/finding nice stuff to buy.
    Bike 1 (Broken) - Bike 2(Borked) - Bike 3(broken spokes) - Bike 4( Needs Work) - Bike 5 (in bits) - Bike 6* ...
  • veronese68
    veronese68 Posts: 27,897
    Fixed a puncture on the back wheel of the wife's station hack last week, putting the wheel back in I noticed a broken spoke. Forgot on Saturday so on Sunday I rode it down to Evans to get a spoke, fitted it there and as I was riding back I stopped to watch the pros on the RL Classic ride through Kingston on the way out to Surrey. The breakaway must have been 5 minutes ahead at that point.
    Thankfully it was a NDS spoke.
    Kinesis Pro6
    Marin Nail Trail
    Cotic Solaris
  • UndercoverElephant
    UndercoverElephant Posts: 5,796
    Rebuilt the rear wheel on the CR1 after a catastrophic hub failure. New Hope RS4 hub and a load of new CX-Ray spokes to replace the straight-pull ones that were on the last rebuild. This wheel is now a true Trigger's broom.

    The RS4, however, is a very, very lovely hub. Less noisy than the regular Hope hubs, quick to engage and very, very smooth - even before the bearings have worn in.
    Sun - Rain - Snow
  • itboffin
    itboffin Posts: 20,072
    right folks, i've just removed the front cartridge bearings from my front campag wheel, which was simple enough, now then how do i push the replacement bearings back in place?

    The through axle has a tapered lip so i cant use my normal homemade threaded press as the axle needs to be in place.

    Do i put my drifts either side and whack it against a block of wood?
    Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
  • itboffin
    itboffin Posts: 20,072
    As i suspect the answer is press one side in then BASH the other

    useful vid here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iDmppfzme2I
    Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
  • luv2ride
    luv2ride Posts: 2,367
    Last night I re-seated and added new sealant to the Nano TCS tyre on the front of the adventure bike. Let's see how well it holds pressure this time?

    Just checked...still up! 8) Ride tomorrow....

    Will do the same on the similarly afflicted Pro6 tonight :wink:
    Titus Silk Road Ti rigid 29er - Scott Solace 10 disc - Kinesis Crosslight Pro6 disc - Scott CR1 SL - Pinnacle Arkose X 650b - Pinnacle Arkose singlespeed - Specialized Singlecross...& an Ernie Ball Musicman Stingray 4 string...
  • luv2ride
    luv2ride Posts: 2,367
    Front WTB Exposure TCS now remounted with Caffelatex instead of Stans - so far, so good. The Airwave hybrid track pump/tubeless tank inflator is getting a beasting...

    Front hydro brake wasn't working right on the Solace disc this morning, presumed new pads needed. Removed and quite a bit of pad material left, so cleaned pads and rotor with Isopropryl alchohol and seems much improved. Got outers taught to stop internal cable rattle,quiet again. Removed , greased and refitted pedals to stop a creak that had developed.....
    Titus Silk Road Ti rigid 29er - Scott Solace 10 disc - Kinesis Crosslight Pro6 disc - Scott CR1 SL - Pinnacle Arkose X 650b - Pinnacle Arkose singlespeed - Specialized Singlecross...& an Ernie Ball Musicman Stingray 4 string...
  • greenamex2
    greenamex2 Posts: 272
    Replaced the leaky calipers on the hybrid, and learnt how to bleed bike brakes.

    Then worked out how knackered the bearings were in my rear wheel and dumped on the LBS.
  • veronese68
    veronese68 Posts: 27,897
    Stripped and cleaned the Pro6, lubed the necessary bits and put it back together. Mildly concerned about the state of the frame at the bottom of the downtube, lots of bubbling under the paint. Just need to put the chain back on as I got waylaid before I finished.
    Also stripped the wrong stickers off the old Chesini frame, just need to decide whether to have it painted or touch it up to preserve the aged look.
    Kinesis Pro6
    Marin Nail Trail
    Cotic Solaris
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    More fettling I'm planning to do, but I'm quite excited by the eureka moment...

    Having moaned about the DS bearings in my RS10 rear wheel it suddenly dawns on me that I can sort it with a new freehub and the offending cone.

    Slightly annoying having to replace a working freehub just because the bearing cup's pitted, but it's a lot better than having to junk the entire wheel.

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