Thread To Tell Everyone What Fettling You've Just Done

elbowloh

Had a very loose steerer/headset so spent a good 45 minutes last night trying to tighten it up. To be honest it has probably been a bit loose since I first built the bike 2 years ago when i didn't really know what I was doing. Also spent 30 mins trying to find a load of steerer spacers that I bought a while back, but to no avail.

jstrang

I had problems shifting to biggest gear on front derailleur - sometimes it took a few seconds before it would finally shift. So having watched a couple of videos on YouTube I decided to fix it.

Now it won't shift to that gear at all but I think I now know where I went wrong so will have another attempt.

itboffin

just fitted a new KMC 73 10 speed chain and blimey the supplied quick link was a nightmare to fit, i've never had that before with the 93 and above chains, i'm guessing its a one use link.

ouch!

tgotb

elbowloh wrote:

Had a very loose steerer/headset so spent a good 45 minutes last night trying to tighten it up. To be honest it has probably been a bit loose since I first built the bike 2 years ago when i didn't really know what I was doing. Also spent 30 mins trying to find a load of steerer spacers that I bought a while back, but to no avail.

If you have more than one bike, and tend to have spacers above your stems aswell as underneath, you can always borrow spacers from other bikes. Once the stem's tightened up, the spacers above it don't actually do anything.
Pushing off at our club hill climb, I noticed that some of the real weight weenies race without the top cap, bolt etc, presumably to save weight...

elbowloh

TGOTB wrote:

elbowloh wrote:

Had a very loose steerer/headset so spent a good 45 minutes last night trying to tighten it up. To be honest it has probably been a bit loose since I first built the bike 2 years ago when i didn't really know what I was doing. Also spent 30 mins trying to find a load of steerer spacers that I bought a while back, but to no avail.

If you have more than one bike, and tend to have spacers above your stems aswell as underneath, you can always borrow spacers from other bikes. Once the stem's tightened up, the spacers above it don't actually do anything.
Pushing off at our club hill climb, I noticed that some of the real weight weenies race without the top cap, bolt etc, presumably to save weight...

The only other bike i have at home at the moment has a quill stem (the others are at another property i'm selling).

I only have one little space on top of the stem.

So, the weight weenies, the only thing keeping it together are the stem bolts?

tgotb

elbowloh wrote:

TGOTB wrote:

elbowloh wrote:

Had a very loose steerer/headset so spent a good 45 minutes last night trying to tighten it up. To be honest it has probably been a bit loose since I first built the bike 2 years ago when i didn't really know what I was doing. Also spent 30 mins trying to find a load of steerer spacers that I bought a while back, but to no avail.

If you have more than one bike, and tend to have spacers above your stems aswell as underneath, you can always borrow spacers from other bikes. Once the stem's tightened up, the spacers above it don't actually do anything.
Pushing off at our club hill climb, I noticed that some of the real weight weenies race without the top cap, bolt etc, presumably to save weight...

The only other bike i have at home at the moment has a quill stem (the others are at another property i'm selling).

I only have one little space on top of the stem.

So, the weight weenies, the only thing keeping it together are the stem bolts?

That's right. I don't think that's unreasonable, actually; the stem clamps over quite a large area, whereas the bit you're removing is only ever going to be as solid as the star-fangled nut it screws into.

elbowloh

TGOTB wrote:

elbowloh wrote:

TGOTB wrote:

elbowloh wrote:

Had a very loose steerer/headset so spent a good 45 minutes last night trying to tighten it up. To be honest it has probably been a bit loose since I first built the bike 2 years ago when i didn't really know what I was doing. Also spent 30 mins trying to find a load of steerer spacers that I bought a while back, but to no avail.

If you have more than one bike, and tend to have spacers above your stems aswell as underneath, you can always borrow spacers from other bikes. Once the stem's tightened up, the spacers above it don't actually do anything.
Pushing off at our club hill climb, I noticed that some of the real weight weenies race without the top cap, bolt etc, presumably to save weight...

The only other bike i have at home at the moment has a quill stem (the others are at another property i'm selling).

I only have one little space on top of the stem.

So, the weight weenies, the only thing keeping it together are the stem bolts?

That's right. I don't think that's unreasonable, actually; the stem clamps over quite a large area, whereas the bit you're removing is only ever going to be as solid as the star-fangled nut it screws into.

But i don't think you get enough clamping force on the bearings. There'll be a lot of play in the headset, leading to wear. Not good in the long term, but might be ok if its just done for hill climbs i guess.

milemuncher1

elbowloh wrote:

But i don't think you get enough clamping force on the bearings. There'll be a lot of play in the headset, leading to wear. Not good in the long term, but might be ok if its just done for hill climbs i guess.

Any front to back play really bothers me. I couldn’t ride any bike with a headset that had play in it. I think I’ll leave the ‘boltless’ approach to the weight weenies

UndercoverElephant

You’d tighten the stem with the top cap in place, then remove it and the bung I would guess. Not only does the carbon steerer require the bung to stay solid, but it would knack in an accident if you face planted! Surprised many scrutineers would allow it.

veronese68

No, it's fine. The top cap is only to set the preload on the bearings. Once the stem is tightened it could be removed on aluminium or steel steerer tubes. Not so sure about carbon steerers where the bung inside supports the tube so the stem doesn't crush it. Same deal with hollowtech type cranks, the plastic centre screw sets the preload then the left crank clamping screws hold the thing together.

tgotb

elbowloh wrote:

TGOTB wrote:

elbowloh wrote:

TGOTB wrote:

elbowloh wrote:

Had a very loose steerer/headset so spent a good 45 minutes last night trying to tighten it up. To be honest it has probably been a bit loose since I first built the bike 2 years ago when i didn't really know what I was doing. Also spent 30 mins trying to find a load of steerer spacers that I bought a while back, but to no avail.

If you have more than one bike, and tend to have spacers above your stems aswell as underneath, you can always borrow spacers from other bikes. Once the stem's tightened up, the spacers above it don't actually do anything.
Pushing off at our club hill climb, I noticed that some of the real weight weenies race without the top cap, bolt etc, presumably to save weight...

The only other bike i have at home at the moment has a quill stem (the others are at another property i'm selling).

I only have one little space on top of the stem.

So, the weight weenies, the only thing keeping it together are the stem bolts?

That's right. I don't think that's unreasonable, actually; the stem clamps over quite a large area, whereas the bit you're removing is only ever going to be as solid as the star-fangled nut it screws into.

But i don't think you get enough clamping force on the bearings. There'll be a lot of play in the headset, leading to wear. Not good in the long term, but might be ok if its just done for hill climbs i guess.

You set the preload on the bearings using the bolt in the top cap, and then lock it in place with the stem. Once the stem's tightened, nothing you do with that top cap bolt is going to alter the preload in the bearings. If you subsequently try to tighten the bolt further, you're just pulling against the stem. Try hard enough, and you could pull the star fangled nut out of the steerer tube, but you still won't have altered the preload on the headset bearings. That's why you can't adjust the headset without slackening the stem bolts.

tgotb

UndercoverElephant wrote:

You’d tighten the stem with the top cap in place, then remove it and the bung I would guess. Not only does the carbon steerer require the bung to stay solid, but it would knack in an accident if you face planted! Surprised many scrutineers would allow it.

That's a very good point. As a rule, there don't tend to be safety checks on bikes at most TTs and hill climbs. You might not get away with it at an event with BC commissaires!

elbowloh

Hadn't figured you'd take it out once pre-loaded, but yes, as others have mentioned, without the bung in a carbon steerer, i wouldn't really want to ride it!

milemuncher1

Veronese68 wrote:

No, it's fine. The top cap is only to set the preload on the bearings. Once the stem is tightened it could be removed on aluminium or steel steerer tubes. Not so sure about carbon steerers where the bung inside supports the tube so the stem doesn't crush it. Same deal with hollowtech type cranks, the plastic centre screw sets the preload then the left crank clamping screws hold the thing together.

I have one bike with a Sora HTII Chainset, and somehow I’ve lost the plastic centre bolt, it’s not caused any issues as yet, the issue might come if I have to take the Chainset out, to repack the B.B. bearings, then have to put it back together

elbowloh

Milemuncher1 wrote:

Veronese68 wrote:

No, it's fine. The top cap is only to set the preload on the bearings. Once the stem is tightened it could be removed on aluminium or steel steerer tubes. Not so sure about carbon steerers where the bung inside supports the tube so the stem doesn't crush it. Same deal with hollowtech type cranks, the plastic centre screw sets the preload then the left crank clamping screws hold the thing together.

I have one bike with a Sora HTII Chainset, and somehow I’ve lost the plastic centre bolt, it’s not caused any issues as yet, the issue might come if I have to take the Chainset out, to repack the B.B. bearings, then have to put it back together

You can buy the plastic bolt in evans for about £3.

mtb-idle

I was out early on Saturday morning pulling a few RP laps with Dizzydane. On the way home a mis-timed bunny hop up a kerb left me with a distinct wobble on the rear wheel. This caused lots of brake rub and tired legs on the commute on Monday. The ding was so bad that the rear brake was 'banging' as it gripped and then let go and then gripped again as the wheel rotated.

So Monday evening having found my spoke key I dragged the old girl inside into the new kitchen extension (it was too cold and dark in the garage) and trued the wheel while feeling the benefit of my new underfloor heating (#smug).

I was looking forward to commuting the next day (Tuesday) but for some reason my phone alarm and natural body-clock both took a rain-check and I awoke at 7-39 am slightly confused about how relaxed I felt and how light it seemed. Time for a quick text to the boss and a working from home day.

Onto this morning and I met my buddy Nick at the Nonsuch Park gates and we shared a pleasant commute together. It was only a small change to the rear wheel but it made a great difference in terms of a smooth ride/braking.

wolfsbane2k

Quick wheel clean and rim brake sandpaper scrub as the braking performance was getting very, very dodgy!
Large chunks of alu in the pads weren't helping.

Now back to being able to throw myself over the handlebars, much preferred than failing to brake on a 40 mph downhill section!

milemuncher1

Put a new chain and cassette on bike number 5 ( I think ), changed the wheels for Mavic Aksiums, put a couple of GP 4000sII’s that I found in a box, brand new, still in the box, on, had an issue with the new chain being a bit stiff, but soon sorted that out with a few miles. I now have 4 of 7 bikes working nicely again. One has a knackered Chainset, one never gets used, because it’s a bit old, and the other one is waiting on a new saddle.

milemuncher1

TGOTB wrote:

UndercoverElephant wrote:

You’d tighten the stem with the top cap in place, then remove it and the bung I would guess. Not only does the carbon steerer require the bung to stay solid, but it would knack in an accident if you face planted! Surprised many scrutineers would allow it.

That's a very good point. As a rule, there don't tend to be safety checks on bikes at most TTs and hill climbs. You might not get away with it at an event with BC commissaires!

Absolutely.

redvee

Fitted the bottle cages to the WOHO anti sway bar I bought some weeks back. When I first fitted it the bottle cages placed the bottles too high and the nozzles were touching my toned butt cheeks, even with small 500ml bottles. I've lowered the mounts and now with 750ml bottles there is no conflict.

Sportiveman

Finnaly finished my first ever build a Boardman team carbon with ultegra 6800 and deda zero 100 finishing kit , took her out for shakedown ride everything went great gearing was perfect so was brakes . Got home decided to swap stems from winter bike (100mm) as too long on Boardman (120mm) as it cane with the frame but it’s still slightly to long so will get a 90mm I think , then the problem started noticed front brake outer had popped out of Caliper as I cut the cable to short so cut new length as has spares then inner cable frayed and got stuck in lever luckily managed to get it out so got to wait to new cable turns up and order new stem .

redvee

Bled the rear Juin Tech calliper last night and all was good on the stand, nice and sharp action as I like it. Went out for a short ride and the braking was non-existant, looks like I contaminated the pads so new pads and a clean of the disc and all feels good again till I ride it tomorrow. Fingers crossed.

luv2ride

redvee wrote:

Bled the rear Juin Tech calliper last night and all was good on the stand, nice and sharp action as I like it. Went out for a short ride and the braking was non-existant, looks like I contaminated the pads so new pads and a clean of the disc and all feels good again till I ride it tomorrow. Fingers crossed.

Question - I'm having a similar experience with my TRP Spyres, and reckon I contaminated the pads with degreaser during a bike clean a week or so back. Cleaned the rotor with disc brake cleaner but no improvement. If you change your pads, what do you need to do to the rotor assuming that's also contaminated, or am I over thinking it?

Rode my hydro disc brake bike yesterday and amazing what a difference having functional brakes makes to your riding enjoyment!

veronese68

Luv2ride wrote:

TRP Spyres, and reckon I contaminated the pads with degreaser during a bike clean a week or so back. Cleaned the rotor with disc brake cleaner but no improvement. If you change your pads, what do you need to do to the rotor assuming that's also contaminated, or am I over thinking it?

Keep all chemicals away from discs if possible, if squirting degreaser cover the disc and caliper. If you change the pads clean the rotor as well. What sort of disc brake cleaner are you using? Car disc brake cleaner is no good for bikes as it leaves a light oil residue to stop cast iron discs rusting immediately. The power of car brakes means they will burn that off with no issues, bikes can't and it creates problems. If in doubt get hold of some IPA, isopropyl alcohol not the beer I'm afraid. That will clean the disc and not leave any residue.

jstrang

jstrang wrote:

I had problems shifting to biggest gear on front derailleur - sometimes it took a few seconds before it would finally shift. So having watched a couple of videos on YouTube I decided to fix it.

Now it won't shift to that gear at all but I think I now know where I went wrong so will have another attempt.

I managed to fix it over the weekend! Shifted to smallest cog on the front and tightened the cable. But the cable is a bit frayed so will need to be replaced...

wolfsbane2k

Veronese68 wrote:

[Keep all chemicals away from discs if possible, if squirting degreaser cover the disc and caliper. If you change the pads clean the rotor as well. What sort of disc brake cleaner are you using? Car disc brake cleaner is no good for bikes as it leaves a light oil residue to stop cast iron discs rusting immediately. The power of car brakes means they will burn that off with no issues, bikes can't and it creates problems. If in doubt get hold of some IPA, isopropyl alcohol not the beer I'm afraid. That will clean the disc and not leave any residue.

Bugger. I used some "brake disc and clutch cleaner" on the rims last week - didn't appear to be a problem braking afterwards as I could come to a stop very, very quickly, but now I'm scratching my head and wondering.

edit: "The Wynn's Brake & Clutch Cleaner quickly cleans and degreases all mechanical parts without leaving any reside."
Hmm. Might have been lucky.

luv2ride

Veronese68 wrote:

Luv2ride wrote:

TRP Spyres, and reckon I contaminated the pads with degreaser during a bike clean a week or so back. Cleaned the rotor with disc brake cleaner but no improvement. If you change your pads, what do you need to do to the rotor assuming that's also contaminated, or am I over thinking it?

Keep all chemicals away from discs if possible, if squirting degreaser cover the disc and caliper. If you change the pads clean the rotor as well. What sort of disc brake cleaner are you using? Car disc brake cleaner is no good for bikes as it leaves a light oil residue to stop cast iron discs rusting immediately. The power of car brakes means they will burn that off with no issues, bikes can't and it creates problems. If in doubt get hold of some IPA, isopropyl alcohol not the beer I'm afraid. That will clean the disc and not leave any residue.

If I contaminated the pads/rotor it would have been by using an aerosol degreaser on the cassette and rear mech, and chainrings and chain - I didn't spray anything directly on the calipers or rotors (but equally didnt shield them from any overspray either). Disc cleaner is a MucOff aerosol type. Bought for use on my mtbs ages ago, been on shelf unused for ages. Thinking again I did treat the pads with some light sandpaper after cleaning it last weekend, probably with half a mind that'd sort any contamination. My experience of the Spyres have never been great tbh, might try the Juins....

timothyw

Fettled my Spyres last night, replaced the pads - put a cheap sintered set on the back that I bought years ago to bump an order over the free delivery minimum - stops like someone has chained my back wheel to a lamp post. Surprisingly good in short.

Also replaced duranos with some old Rubino Pro Tech's from the garage.

I discarded them two years ago after a horrendous puncture season, but after another horrendous one I'm thinking it's more down to luck than tyres.

vimfuego

New chain needed on the commuter.
Oh well, may as well fit the new cassette as well.
*takes it out for a quick spin* - what's that dreadful scraping noise whilst under load?
Turns out to be the chainring (1x) - seems the wear + new chain = chain suck.
*fits new chainring*
Seems the BB has developed some play. Good job I keep a couple in stock.
*Fits new BB*
Another test ride.
That rear brake lever feels a bit spongey. Disc looks fine. The pads look a bit worn though, probably got a bit of life in it but..... in for a penny
*replaces pads*
Scrape scrape
*re-aligns calliper*
tries again. Silence. perfect.

I love working from home. :-)

milemuncher1

jstrang wrote:

jstrang wrote:

I had problems shifting to biggest gear on front derailleur - sometimes it took a few seconds before it would finally shift. So having watched a couple of videos on YouTube I decided to fix it.

Now it won't shift to that gear at all but I think I now know where I went wrong so will have another attempt.

I managed to fix it over the weekend! Shifted to smallest cog on the front and tightened the cable. But the cable is a bit frayed so will need to be replaced...

Spot on. On both the fix, and the new cable.