Thread To Tell Everyone What Fettling You've Just Done

itboffin

up to 365 now

pinno

itboffin wrote:

up to 365 now

Fair enough. I think you've got this diet thing sussed.

Back off topic:

Bought a Pioneer PL-930 turntable off flea bay ('P2'; for easy reference). Didn't expect it to work and it surprise surprise, it didn't. However, it cost a mere £15 and all I wanted was the tone arm assembly from it to swap it to my old Pioneer PL-930 ('P1').
Put a plug on the fleabay item (P2) and it lit up but no action. I have had toys like that before. I've also had action but no lights and there's common decency so I won't go into any detail.
The deck would not turn at all. So I decided it was easier to transfer the motor from P1 to P2 than do the whole tone arm swap over malarkey. If that was what the problem was. I knew this was a silly idea as I knew mine worked were it not for the problem in the tone arm and due to far too much plaster boarding, I was feeling lazy.
3 hours later and luck was on my side until... despite the quartz lock being lit (it's a direct drive turntable) it was slow. Oh hang on...:
'Switch it to 45 rpm Pinno, ya twit' and bingo! I am now the very happy owner of a working, rare and extremely good turntable. It's not a high end but it's still a great turntable.

Happy fettling me, very happy me. I celebrated with some old singles and a bar of Dark Chocolate.

redvee

Pinno wrote:

itboffin wrote:

up to 365 now

Fair enough. I think you've got this diet thing sussed.

Back off topic:

Bought a Pioneer PL-930 turntable off flea bay ('P2'; for easy reference). Didn't expect it to work and it surprise surprise, it didn't. However, it cost a mere £15 and all I wanted was the tone arm assembly from it to swap it to my old Pioneer PL-930 ('P1').
Put a plug on the fleabay item (P2) and it lit up but no action. I have had toys like that before. I've also had action but no lights and there's common decency so I won't go into any detail.
The deck would not turn at all. So I decided it was easier to transfer the motor from P1 to P2 than do the whole tone arm swap over malarkey. If that was what the problem was. I knew this was a silly idea as I knew mine worked were it not for the problem in the tone arm and due to far too much plaster boarding, I was feeling lazy.
3 hours later and luck was on my side until... despite the quartz lock being lit (it's a direct drive turntable) it was slow. Oh hang on...:
'Switch it to 45 rpm Pinno, ya twit' and bingo! I am now the very happy owner of a working, rare and extremely good turntable. It's not a high end but it's still a great turntable.

Happy fettling me, very happy me. I celebrated with some old singles and a bar of Dark Chocolate.

This turntable thing, is that what the oldies play their music on. The youngsters on the forum might not know what you're talking about

UndercoverElephant

Fitting tubeless tyres:

Pop tyres on rims, squirt in your sealant (Orange seal is the bestest). Trim wheels a few times to get sealant in the cracks, then inflate with track-pump turning the wheel so that any leaky bits are nearest the floor.

Pour beer.

UndercoverElephant

Asprilla wrote:

Set out to fettle the squeaky rear disc on the CX.

Five pairs of disposable gloves later and I've:

- changed the chain rings
- adjusted front mech accordingly
- stripped and cleaned drive train
- adjusted saddle and cockpit positions
- removed rack
- changed there's and tubes
- fitted proper lights
- cleaned rear rotor

Rear brake still squeaks (you can't really check these things on a stand) so I think the rotor is warped.

Let me guess, Shimano 785?

asprilla

685s.

Been fine for 2 years and then I changed the pads. Rear has squeaked since.

Going to take a file to the pads and change the rotor tonight.

UndercoverElephant

Asprilla wrote:

685s.

Been fine for 2 years and then I changed the pads. Rear has squeaked since.

Going to take a file to the pads and change the rotor tonight.

Ooh, close!

Mine were pissing oil on the pads, leaky piston. Nothing worked for long, best I got was by burning the pads with a weed-burner. Replaced them with some Hope RX4s a few weeks ago after trying literally everything else. My god they’re incredible.

asprilla

Bugger.

veronese68

redvee wrote:

This turntable thing, is that what the oldies play their music on. The youngsters on the forum might not know what you're talking about

Keep up, vinyl is back in. I fettled my turntable a while back, new belt then printed a strobe disc off to adjust the speeds and it works perfectly. The lad was buying albums on vinyl before he set off on his travels.

veronese68

Asprilla wrote:

Bugger.

If they were fine for 2 years before changing the pads they should be alright and the pads are more likely to be the issue. Unless a piston was damaged replacing the pads, which it shouldn't be. What pads before and what now? I bought some cheap 6 bolt rotors off fleabay as emergency spares, only a couple of quid each as I recall.

pinno

Veronese68 wrote:

redvee wrote:

This turntable thing, is that what the oldies play their music on. The youngsters on the forum might not know what you're talking about

Keep up, vinyl is back in. I fettled my turntable a while back, new belt then printed a strobe disc off to adjust the speeds and it works perfectly. The lad was buying albums on vinyl before he set off on his travels.

You tell him, that Redvee whipper snapper. If I knew where he lived, I would turn the crank handle on my horseless carriage and go to his house and give him the what for.

asprilla

Veronese68 wrote:

Asprilla wrote:

Bugger.

If they were fine for 2 years before changing the pads they should be alright and the pads are more likely to be the issue. Unless a piston was damaged replacing the pads, which it shouldn't be. What pads before and what now? I bought some cheap 6 bolt rotors off fleabay as emergency spares, only a couple of quid each as I recall.

Didn't get round to putting it on the stand tonight as I was clearing the loft to make turbo space. Stared at the calliper for a bit while idley squeezing the lever and then gave the hose a wiggle as it hung on the garage wall.

Think I might have found the issue; the whole calliper moved. Squeezed the lever and tightened the mounting bolts. Will take it down the road tomorrow morning and see what happens.

itboffin

stripped my carbon saddle now weighs 99g and looks pretty good apart from the scoring around the sides and sit bone area where they glued the cover, what can i use to smooth that down?

i'm assuming some kind of fine sandpaper?

pinno

itboffin wrote:

stripped my carbon saddle now weighs 99g and looks pretty good apart from the scoring around the sides and sit bone area where they glued the cover, what can i use to smooth that down?

i'm assuming some kind of fine sandpaper?

Smear some grinding paste on your shorts and off you go.

redvee

Pinno wrote:

itboffin wrote:

stripped my carbon saddle now weighs 99g and looks pretty good apart from the scoring around the sides and sit bone area where they glued the cover, what can i use to smooth that down?

i'm assuming some kind of fine sandpaper?

Smear some grinding paste on your shorts and off you go.

Will be quicker and better suited to the contours of his thighs if applied direct to the skin :shock:

After riding with a new Ortlieb City pannier for 4 months I moved the hooks inwards by 5mm so it's easier to clip on the rack, there's been several times I've got home and the bag has only been attached by one hook. Whilst playing with the bag I swapped the QL1 lower attachment with the QL2 from the old Roller classic that it replaced, it was only a question of removing and attaching the new fitting and making two holes in the bag as the holes were already in place on the board lining the back of the bag.

luv2ride

Spruced up the Singlecross ready for winter. Flared drops from my Arkose (replaced by Salsa Cowbells) put on, re-cabled rear brake and replaced the noodle. The vee-brakes now work like a dream. New Zipp CX Service Course bar tape fitted, along with spd pedals. Also found a home for an old Selle Italia Gel Flow saddle I had knocking about. Stuck some 32mm Randonneurs on.

Went out for a 20 mile night ride now the clocks have gone back. Forgotten how much I love it (night riding...and the Singlecross)

trivial_poursuivant

Bought a few 11sp Ultegra bits to convert old Bike from 10sp, so now both bikes are 11sp. Great as it means I can now use all my wheelsets on both bikes without fannying about swapping cassettes. Bad news is turbo wheel is 10sp only so can’t use it!!!

Thinks me needs a new cheap turbo wheel.

spasypaddy

changed the bars on my fixie from 44cm to 38cm. they are planet x bars so i put black electrical tape over the logo 8)

pinno

spasypaddy wrote:

changed the bars on my fixie from 44cm to 38cm. they are planet x bars so i put black electrical tape over the logo 8)

Is that to do with some sort of loyalty towards Kim Jung Un?

My old Sidi's are well, old. 20 years old to be precise. I use them for winter riding but the velcro straps have been de-laminating for a while. The velcro still works but the top of the strap can flap around in the wind. I have used various glues with various properties to no avail due to the inherent lack of flexibility in many adhesives. Then I spotted the stapler which was only there by coincidence.

Sorted.

davis

Pinno wrote:

My old Sidi's are well, old. 20 years old to be precise. I use them for winter riding but the velcro straps have been de-laminating for a while. The velcro still works but the top of the strap can flap around in the wind. I have used various glues with various properties to no avail due to the inherent lack of flexibility in many adhesives. Then I spotted the stapler which was only there by coincidence.

Sorted.

Your fix is admirable, but for future reference... Shoe Goo.

Really pretty toxic, IIRC, and it doesn't even get you high, but it is bloody good for holding flexible bits of shoes together.

If you're after less nasty stuff, I'd have thought Sugru (not at all similar, despite the name) would do the job too, but it's not designed as an adhesive.

pinno

davis wrote:

Pinno wrote:

My old Sidi's are well, old. 20 years old to be precise. I use them for winter riding but the velcro straps have been de-laminating for a while. The velcro still works but the top of the strap can flap around in the wind. I have used various glues with various properties to no avail due to the inherent lack of flexibility in many adhesives. Then I spotted the stapler which was only there by coincidence.

Sorted.

Your fix is admirable, but for future reference... Shoe Goo.

Really pretty toxic, IIRC, and it doesn't even get you high, but it is bloody good for holding flexible bits of shoes together.

If you're after less nasty stuff, I'd have thought Sugru (not at all similar, despite the name) would do the job too, but it's not designed as an adhesive.

I'll keep Shoe Goo in mind for future applications and thank you. Staples are bloody cheap. I have used Sugru but don't think it would work.

mamil314

Replaced dried out electrical tape holding ends of bartape in place. It used to flow in the wind like ribbons. I miss that.

PhilipPirrip

mamil314 wrote:

Replaced dried out electrical tape holding ends of bartape in place. It used to flow in the wind like ribbons. I miss that.

I use self-amalgamating tape to keep ends of bartape in place. Remains grippy and not affected by sweat. Will eventually break down through friction but lasts far longer than electrical tape.

As for the joy of tape blowing in the wind, maybe invest in some of these;

prawny

Cleaned my chain and put new brakepads in the rear yesterday, plenty of pad left in the front, but the cheap crappy brake is running out of adjustment.

Used the first £2 lifeline pad set I had in the back, they're a bit fatter than Shimano ones and I struggled to get the wheel back in with everything wound all the way out, rubs a bit still but works. Fronts feel dodgy so I think will have to go.

Back tyre I was talking about changing several pages ago is still going...

dyrlac

A weekend of maaoohsive fettling fun.

Re-re-un-retired the Caadx from turbo duties; swapped crankset from 52/36 to 50/34; fitted SPDs, full length mudguards and a pair of cheap Aksiums that were rattling around the shed with an 11-28 cassette, along with 28mm (!) Conti 4S tyres. Normally I only ride 23s on the road because those tend to be the only ones that you can get with go-faster stripes, but this is now a proper low-geared winter commuter and so needs more practical accoutrements. Ride in this morning was nice, but I had forgotten this was a near boris bike ride position. I need to sort out how to slam the stem: massively oversized head tube, 30mm cone spacer and cantilever brake cable hanger make for a tedious search of obscure parts websites.

Incidental to the above, I also built up the Dolan Preffisio frameset I accidentally acquired a few weeks ago as the new turbo bike. Only real observation is that the new 5801 FD is a real shag to cable: when the FD is in the outboard position, there is no clearance for the allen key to tighten the cable retaining bolt. Which means you need to tighten it up as best you can in the inboard position, then faff with the barrel adjusters and (after much swearing) limit screws.

Oh, and because we're having major works done on the house, most of my specialised tools are all in storage somewhere, which meant an emergency trip to evans. Pretty sure I'm now up to three bottom bracket wrenches and two star nut setters; just barely resisted the urge to buy a another pipe cutter for the steering tube and made do with a hacksaw like some kind of animal.

Oh well, N = 6. I sure hope S > 7, because I have another project on the way....

prawny

POTENTIAL STUPID/GENIUS IDEA AHOY!

After my earlier thoughts about hydro discs for my commuter and their relative unaffordability I have started thinking about sticking a flat bar on the roadie for the winter. I can get a pair of clarkes brakes for less than £40. A bar would be a tenner, then I just need some 10sp shifters compatible with an old 105/tiagra set up.

Anyone converted a correct sized road bike to a flat bar before? What are the consequences?

reformedfatty

Tyre changing madness.

Swapped the turbo trainer tyre for a road one, put the turbo tyre on a spare wheel. Turned a tyre that I'd fitted the wrong way round on the MTB so it was correct.

Cleaned and serviced the commuter.
Attempted to fit mudguards on the commuter (front failed due to not having a long enough bolt for the fork bridge).

asprilla

Changed the rear rotor and pads on the CX. Very stoppy and not at all screachy.

itboffin

yet again replaced the rear section of brake outer (rust) and fine tuned the brake caliper position

redvee

Had a fiddle with the Moon saddle rail bracket and Go Pro saddle rail bracket and have mated them so now the Go Pro bracket sits below the rails with the Moon bracket above the rails and my new Moon Nebula is close to the back of the saddle and less prominent and is angled downwards so shouldn't burn the retinas of tailgaters.