Thread To Tell Everyone What Fettling You've Just Done

milemuncher1

I’ve fitted the new Replacement Ultegra Crankset to the faithful old 720 AF. The old one was scarily sharks toothed, which explains why it kept spitting the chain off. I’ll have to wait ‘til tomorrow to test it. 150 miles up to Parsons Green and back should work.

roger_merriman

The high mileage (relative speaking) seems to be working its way around the bolts on my old bike, had the seatpost clamp fail a few weeks back, and this week the saddle clamp went.

At this rate will only be the frame left soon!

oldbazza

New Condor Poggia forks and re-built Archetype/SP dynamo wheel fitted to the LB Robinson.

Much tidier on the cable front now with the forks brake cable routing.

Also have a Brooks Cambium (the cut-out one)on loan;nice but ye gods it's a bit of a porker,still the Robinson is not a weight weenie machine.

elbowloh

roger merriman wrote:

The high mileage (relative speaking) seems to be working its way around the bolts on my old bike, had the seatpost clamp fail a few weeks back, and this week the saddle clamp went.

At this rate will only be the frame left soon!

Sounding a bit like Trigger's broom...

jstrang

Milemuncher1 wrote:

jstrang wrote:

jstrang wrote:

I had problems shifting to biggest gear on front derailleur - sometimes it took a few seconds before it would finally shift. So having watched a couple of videos on YouTube I decided to fix it.

Now it won't shift to that gear at all but I think I now know where I went wrong so will have another attempt.

I managed to fix it over the weekend! Shifted to smallest cog on the front and tightened the cable. But the cable is a bit frayed so will need to be replaced...

Spot on. On both the fix, and the new cable.

Thanks, I will be fitting the new cable in the next couple of weeks.

roger_merriman

elbowloh wrote:

roger merriman wrote:

The high mileage (relative speaking) seems to be working its way around the bolts on my old bike, had the seatpost clamp fail a few weeks back, and this week the saddle clamp went.

At this rate will only be the frame left soon!

Sounding a bit like Trigger's broom...

is getting that way...

milemuncher1

roger merriman wrote:

The high mileage (relative speaking) seems to be working its way around the bolts on my old bike, had the seatpost clamp fail a few weeks back, and this week the saddle clamp went.

At this rate will only be the frame left soon!

Amen brother. This is why I find it a bit of a pointless exercise to spend large sums of money on a bike. If you do big miles, it kills them. If you’ve got flashy kit, it just ends up costing more, don’t for one second think the expensive stuff is more robust, it ain’t.

roger_merriman

Milemuncher1 wrote:

roger merriman wrote:

The high mileage (relative speaking) seems to be working its way around the bolts on my old bike, had the seatpost clamp fail a few weeks back, and this week the saddle clamp went.

At this rate will only be the frame left soon!

Amen brother. This is why I find it a bit of a pointless exercise to spend large sums of money on a bike. If you do big miles, it kills them. If you’ve got flashy kit, it just ends up costing more, don’t for one second think the expensive stuff is more robust, it ain’t.

There is a sweet point, clearly also depends on what sort of kit it is etc, ie expensive race tyres don’t last long but expensive touring/commuting do, my CX is showing wear on its tyres at 500miles where as the old MTB’s Marathon plus tours are showing no wear at 1300 miles.

milemuncher1

The new ( larger ) 52 tooth chainring was mighty close to the FD, so I spent a few minutes trying to get the gap more acceptable. It’s working lovely now.

trivial_poursuivant

Snapped yet another speedplay cleat plate. 3 this year already. Went to use back up pair and that had a snapped shoehorn clip. Ffs! Where’s the screwdriver?

Also new headset in winter bike , new chainset fitted and set of brake calipers on way to make it a full 6800 upgrade from 6700. When I can find the time and money she’s going into get a respray to cover up the nicks and scratches in the paintwork

rhodrich

Decided to build a wheel, as I haven't done one in a while. 27 x 1 1/4 Mavic MA40 rim (unused) on a 'Le Tour' double fixed large flange hub, laced together (3X) with 36 DT Swiss Competition spokes. All items retrieved from the spares cave. Very relaxing build.

I already had a 27 x 1 1/4 MA40 front wheel (on a Campag Record small flange road hub, so not an exact match, but it'll do). The wheelset looks so good on a spare vintage steel 'Pete Luxton' frame that I have, that I'm tempted to build that bike up again, though I'll have to find a threadless bottom bracket (owing to worn threads). With the exception of the BB, I should have enough parts in the spares cave to build it up completely.

Might have to relinquish a few bikes from the bike cave over the summer though. Even I'm thinking I might have a few too many......

andy9964

Bought four Shimano rear (135mm) QR skewers on ebay, for £10.99. Took one into work to get 35mm cut off, and re-cut the thread (this required a little turning on a lathe before the thread could be cut). Now have one set, will do another when I can

greenamex2

Fitted my 40mm marathon winter spikes to the hybrid. Now praying for snow!

Which will pretty much guarantee good weather until spring.

rhodrich

Did a bit more building up on the spare track/path frame. SR Apex single chainset fitted, using VP Components bottom bracket. I don't normally use anything but Shimano on the bottom bracket front, but the VP one has steel 'phosphated' cups that seem to have a slightly larger thread than usual. All this means that it threads in nice and tight on the worn threads on my frame, where alloy or plastic cups don't have enough bite. Looks like I've got all the bits to get it on the road now, apart from pedals (Need to get some M520's or similar).

jstrang

jstrang wrote:

Milemuncher1 wrote:

jstrang wrote:

jstrang wrote:

I had problems shifting to biggest gear on front derailleur - sometimes it took a few seconds before it would finally shift. So having watched a couple of videos on YouTube I decided to fix it.

Now it won't shift to that gear at all but I think I now know where I went wrong so will have another attempt.

I managed to fix it over the weekend! Shifted to smallest cog on the front and tightened the cable. But the cable is a bit frayed so will need to be replaced...

Spot on. On both the fix, and the new cable.

Thanks, I will be fitting the new cable in the next couple of weeks.

Over the weekend I gave my bike a thorough clean before fitting my new derailleur cable and indexing the gears.
Now it's much better (not perfect but I am very happy with it). Can't believe how quiet it is now, but Strava shows I am not much quicker - I guess that is down to me, not the bike :shock:

rhodrich

Tightened up handlebar clamp on my Carlton, as it had been creaking. Seems to have worked. Made sure I checked for cracks first, as a snapped handlebar is not very fun.....

elbowloh

jstrang wrote:

jstrang wrote:

Milemuncher1 wrote:

jstrang wrote:

jstrang wrote:

I had problems shifting to biggest gear on front derailleur - sometimes it took a few seconds before it would finally shift. So having watched a couple of videos on YouTube I decided to fix it.

Now it won't shift to that gear at all but I think I now know where I went wrong so will have another attempt.

I managed to fix it over the weekend! Shifted to smallest cog on the front and tightened the cable. But the cable is a bit frayed so will need to be replaced...

Spot on. On both the fix, and the new cable.

Thanks, I will be fitting the new cable in the next couple of weeks.

Over the weekend I gave my bike a thorough clean before fitting my new derailleur cable and indexing the gears.
Now it's much better (not perfect but I am very happy with it). Can't believe how quiet it is now, but Strava shows I am not much quicker - I guess that is down to me, not the bike :shock:

WhatchutalkingaboutWillis?

It's all about the bike.

wolfsbane2k

fitted new front wheel that had been lurking in the garage , cos I was too lazy to go through the hassle of removing the (getting) bald tyre AND fit a new one in the same evening, cos I knew that I'd end cleaning & servicing the hub at the same time.

N0bodyOfTheGoat

Wolfsbane2k wrote:

fitted new front wheel that had been lurking in the garage , cos I was too lazy to go through the hassle of removing the (getting) bald tyre AND fit a new one in the same evening, cos I knew that I'd end cleaning & servicing the hub at the same time.

Did it make fighting this morning's headwind approaching the city centre any easier?

Just after 0600, it felt like I was cycling uphill most of the way to work!
https://mywindsock.com/activity/1384617423/

wolfsbane2k

NitrousOxide wrote:

Wolfsbane2k wrote:

fitted new front wheel that had been lurking in the garage , cos I was too lazy to go through the hassle of removing the (getting) bald tyre AND fit a new one in the same evening, cos I knew that I'd end cleaning & servicing the hub at the same time.

Did it make fighting this morning's headwind approaching the city centre any easier?

Just after 0600, it felt like I was cycling uphill most of the way to work!
https://mywindsock.com/activity/1384617423/

Ow. No, it most definatley didn't.

frogonabike

I built up a new commuter while I was injured/drunk over Christmas and after a few weeks can confirm that the Wolf Tooth Tanpan works a treat! For those not in the know this enables you to pair a mountain bike rear mech with road shifters (and other combo's) which worked for me as I wanted to keep things as Shimano as possible but want a wide range cassette as I've gone 1x

So my setup is RS685 shifters, M8000 rear mech with Tanpan, SRAM 36-11 cassette (Shimano only do 42-11 or 32-11) and a Hope 44t narrow wide ring out front

All pretty smooth considering the cross chaining etc I think my only gripe with the gears is the 6th sprocket is a bit noisy but I'm fairly sure that's the cassette being SRAMy - as I'm a few hundred miles in now it's probably time for a tune up so this may be fixable

Also riding on the new 28mm Pirelli Velo's (all the latest fads :roll: ) and they're pretty darn light/quick/grippy but have cut up a bit already

lincolndave

Removed, stripped, cleaned and lubed the front and rear brakes on my winter bike
Also gave the bike a good clean, along with the drive train.

tincaman

frogonabike wrote:

I built up a new commuter while I was injured/drunk over Christmas and after a few weeks can confirm that the Wolf Tooth Tanpan works a treat! For those not in the know this enables you to pair a mountain bike rear mech with road shifters (and other combo's) which worked for me as I wanted to keep things as Shimano as possible but want a wide range cassette as I've gone 1x

So my setup is RS685 shifters, M8000 rear mech with Tanpan, SRAM 36-11 cassette (Shimano only do 42-11 or 32-11) and a Hope 44t narrow wide ring out front

All pretty smooth considering the cross chaining etc I think my only gripe with the gears is the 6th sprocket is a bit noisy but I'm fairly sure that's the cassette being SRAMy - as I'm a few hundred miles in now it's probably time for a tune up so this may be fixable

Also riding on the new 28mm Pirelli Velo's (all the latest fads :roll: ) and they're pretty darn light/quick/grippy but have cut up a bit already

I have a similar setup, same cassette and shifters and chainring, but using a Shimano 5800 medium cage RD, copes with the 36T fine

frogonabike

tincaman wrote:

frogonabike wrote:

I built up a new commuter while I was injured/drunk over Christmas and after a few weeks can confirm that the Wolf Tooth Tanpan works a treat! For those not in the know this enables you to pair a mountain bike rear mech with road shifters (and other combo's) which worked for me as I wanted to keep things as Shimano as possible but want a wide range cassette as I've gone 1x

So my setup is RS685 shifters, M8000 rear mech with Tanpan, SRAM 36-11 cassette (Shimano only do 42-11 or 32-11) and a Hope 44t narrow wide ring out front

All pretty smooth considering the cross chaining etc I think my only gripe with the gears is the 6th sprocket is a bit noisy but I'm fairly sure that's the cassette being SRAMy - as I'm a few hundred miles in now it's probably time for a tune up so this may be fixable

Also riding on the new 28mm Pirelli Velo's (all the latest fads :roll: ) and they're pretty darn light/quick/grippy but have cut up a bit already

I have a similar setup, same cassette and shifters and chainring, but using a Shimano 5800 medium cage RD, copes with the 36T fine

Don’t tell me that!! My mechanic friend did say he thought a road mech could do it and the new ultegra would have looked tidy but I liked having the option of going up to a 42 (not that I’m likely to as it seems to have plenty of range as is)

luv2ride

having to tighten up the headset on my Kinesis Pro6 disc AGAIN. Seemingly a weekly job these days. Not yet dismantled to have a proper look see, but it is it likely to need a replacement given the now regular frequency of adjustment and tightening? no idea of mileage but 4 years old, ridden all weathers. only other I thought is that it's stored hanging from the front wheel, off the floor. Could this be contributing?

6wheels

Using emery paper , give the steerer tube and the inside of the stem a good rubbing with a circular motion where they interface.

luv2ride

Luv2ride wrote:

having to tighten up the headset on my Kinesis Pro6 disc AGAIN. Seemingly a weekly job these days. Not yet dismantled to have a proper look see, but it is it likely to need a replacement given the now regular frequency of adjustment and tightening? no idea of mileage but 4 years old, ridden all weathers. only other I thought is that it's stored hanging from the front wheel, off the floor. Could this be contributing?

So, after deciding to do the decent thing and drop the forks to have a closer look I concluded the lower bearing was graunchy. Remembered when the frame shipped from PBK there was an extra small box, similar to the one the FSA headset came in. Dang me if it didn't contain a full extra FSA No.42/ACB headset! :shock: Only difference was it had a normal bearing cover rather than the cone spacer on the bike.

Replaced the lower bearing (top bearing still cushty), reassembled. Sweet now. 8)

redvee

Swapped the Juin Tech R1 calliper for a Hy:Rd calliper as I need a calliper that will release once it is applied which the R1 hasn't been doing in recent days despite a full bleed a few weeks back.

itboffin

decided to remove 20mm of spacer from under my stem at the same time flipped the stem to make up the stack height, so less spacers but an ugly looking setup, still 20mm underneath (bad neck) i'm wondering if this is going to change the bikes handling?

If it works i need to do the same to my CAAD12, i currently have 65mm of spacers underneath the stem, its looks horrible and still feels too low.

drhaggis

My freehub wasn't free anymore, and since it was gradual, I suspected it was just full of gunk.

Cleaned bike thoroughly, removed the chain to put it on degreaser, removed rear cassete, put it on degreaser, found out the spanners I had wouldn't undo the cone, went to LBS with the rear wheel to get the correct cone spanner, came back, played with the kids, had dinner, disassembled the rear hub (UGH, Disgusting!), put degreaser on the bearings, tried to remove the freehub and... not the right tools. At 22:30 on a Sunday. Oh, fark.

So I went cheap, sprayed the freehub plus hub construction with degreaser from both sides, let it act, washed it, and hoped for the best. Now it seemed to be somewhat free, so I reassembled the stuff, put less grease than before (why did it have so much?) and put the bike back together. It's the first time I've done many of these things, so I'm surprised that I didn't lose bearings, that there were no spares left flying around, and that the bike seems to be working.

Would it have been cheaper to have it serviced at the LBS? Sure, but hopefully the next times will be better. Plus now I know how to deal with axle play.