Thread To Tell Everyone What Fettling You've Just Done

pinno

NitrousOxide wrote:

Pinno wrote:

NitrousOxide wrote:

This is more like fettling I would like to do without fear of breaking item...

How the heck do you change the lenses of those (£5?) Aldi multi-lens glasses that were sold this summer? I want to replace the dark mirrored ones with the yellows, but they are stubborn as heck to remove from the frames! :oops:

If they are or like the Crivit one's, then you need to bend the frame a little. The rear pointy bit of the lens (nearest the arm) goes in before the short stubby bit nearest the nose piece. For removal, stubby bit out first. They'll take a bit of stick.
Or do what I did and buy 3 sets; one with dark/mirrored lenses, 1 with yellow and one with clear

Had another try after reading this and I swear they will surely break if I use any more force!

They sort of click in to place. I know what you mean. There's a fraction more flexibility at the arm end than at the nose piece. You have to simultaneously bend the rim at either end whilst popping the lens out. There's a bit of a knack to it.
Persevere.

Hello Baby:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=anq2bd7qMug

Klumpfy mags de hockslar CRIVIT sports glasses numpf fill de kes:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9rwG91YBixI

N0bodyOfTheGoat

Pinno wrote:

NitrousOxide wrote:

Pinno wrote:

NitrousOxide wrote:

This is more like fettling I would like to do without fear of breaking item...

How the heck do you change the lenses of those (£5?) Aldi multi-lens glasses that were sold this summer? I want to replace the dark mirrored ones with the yellows, but they are stubborn as heck to remove from the frames! :oops:

If they are or like the Crivit one's, then you need to bend the frame a little. The rear pointy bit of the lens (nearest the arm) goes in before the short stubby bit nearest the nose piece. For removal, stubby bit out first. They'll take a bit of stick.
Or do what I did and buy 3 sets; one with dark/mirrored lenses, 1 with yellow and one with clear

Had another try after reading this and I swear they will surely break if I use any more force!

They sort of click in to place. I know what you mean. There's a fraction more flexibility at the arm end than at the nose piece. You have to simultaneously bend the rim at either end whilst popping the lens out. There's a bit of a knack to it.
Persevere.

Hello Baby:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=anq2bd7qMug

Klumpfy mags de hockslar CRIVIT sports glasses numpf fill de kes:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9rwG91YBixI

Yay, finally swapped lenses to ambers, but the amount of force needed to take lenses out was mental... Or I've lost a lot of strength while losing weight over the last year or so!

Thanks for the clip links

smokey_bacon

Replaced poorly actuating rear caliper with a 105 one.
Realigned said brake caliper.
Replaced front pads.
New 11-30 cassette fitted.
New chain fitted.

Not a bad evenings work.

redvee

TWELVE days since I last rode my bike so know I'll have to fettle something before I start back to work on Friday, will go out on it Wednesday I promise

keyser__soze

Bottom bracket/crank was clicking again and crank arm was working loose so stripped crank down, pushed out the recently installed pressfit BB and refitted with a bit of grease. Now seems ok. While I was at it decided to check the odd pulsing from the front brake. Found a hairline crack running along the rim which caused it to bulge out at one point. Fortunate I saw that, although the rims (Ksyrium Elite) were pretty concave I thought I had another winter out of them, done about 8k miles all-weather hard commuting (lots of braking). Now do I replace the rim, buy another one or just make do with the several other wheels I have knocking around? I can find the rim online for £60 but it'd need a wheel build and apparently brand new set of spokes. New wheel is about £150.

pinno

Keyser__Soze wrote:

Bottom bracket/crank was clicking again and crank arm was working loose so stripped crank down, pushed out the recently installed pressfit BB and refitted with a bit of grease. Now seems ok.

Just bin it and replace it with a Praxis.

keyser__soze

Praxis don't seem to offer a BB86 BB. Hope do their PF41 but doesn't have the correct width for my FSA carbon cranks plus it requires another expensive tool to install. I think it's actually the crankset that's to blame, probably yet another bloody carbon/alu insert failure. I'm running driveside K-Force Light, non-driveside arm SLK-Light, as the corresponding other sides both had failed pedal inserts and FSA refused to replace under warranty, claiming it was only 2 years despite the warranty being advertised as 7 years when I bought them :roll: Won't buy any more FSA kit.

pinno

Hmm but they do these bearings for BB30, 86 and 92:

https://www.sigmasport.co.uk/item/Praxi ... -BB92/6A1S

So i'm confused but the threadless BB is the issue surely? I run Campag with over board cups. I've never had a problem with any FSA stuff, it's usually A1 for the money.
Personally, I would moan to FSA a lot until they're fed up with you.

keyser__soze

Pinno wrote:

Hmm but they do these bearings for BB30, 86 and 92

"For Praxis M30 spindle based cranks only. Not for other 30mm cranks"

Have given FSA grief, it's such a well-known issue and it's happened to both cranksets I had, they didn't budge. Was not impressed.

pinno

Who ever came up with threadless BB's needs a good slap.

Oh well, there are other cranksets out there. I got a Wilier Cento Carbon made by Fulcrum (owned by Campag) and bought it (knowingly) with dodgy bearings for £102 incl. p+p. A £500(?) chainset (Record equivalent). Bearings cost £26 and I sold my old Record 39/53 for £160. change in my pocket and a compact chainset that matches my thoroughbred. Kerching

itboffin

Nice

itboffin

I've bought a set of chorus 11 speed shifters plus front & rear mech from here, hopefully they should arrive soon, as I'm planning a major groupset swap around on the fleet.

Putting some more campag in my life

pinno

itboffin wrote:

Putting some more campag in my life

You've seen the light. Good man. Chorus is superb value for money. I like the feel of the Ergo levers more than the Record 11 I have. I prefer my Record 10 Ultra shift to that too but that's going off track. That's on my C40...

cont. p94

itboffin

well the campag stuff I bought from a forum member on here arrived, with a broken left shifter. Then when I was replacing the cables on my ribble I could get the rear brake to work smoothly, i checked and no friction anywhere, then i spotted the riveted brake cable guide on the top tube has corroded and snap one of the rivets, i guess its been on the way for a while.

Is that even repairable?

pinno

Broken left shifter can be fixed and the cable guide will need to go to a frame repairer.

Or, a clip on job but it's a bit agricultural. There are stick on one's but i've never tried them:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stick-On-3M-A ... Swc0FUpCCP

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-x-JAGWIRE-3 ... 0009.m1982

Jagwire have a reasonable reputation.

N0bodyOfTheGoat

While commuting yesterday, I heard some nasty sounds from my Wazoo's front brake and sure enough, when I took the pads out earlier to inspect, they were pretty worn (after ~19 months, ~2500 miles).

By shear good fortune, I removed the rear brake pads earlier from my old Saracen Pylon8 and discovered they were the very same pad type (Saracen had BRM-485, Voodoo has BRM-355), so as a short term fix I fitted the less worn set into the Wazoo.

I've never changed a set of hydraulic disc pads before, but it looked such a simple job... Installing the pads and the pad clip in place was a doddle, but getting the caliper aligned to eliminate rub took an age!

At least I had a better front brake now, but need to source some new ones and it looks like the next google-fu lesson might be learning how to bleed hydraulic brakes, or taking it to LBS if fiddly.

itboffin

Pinno wrote:

Broken left shifter can be fixed and the cable guide will need to go to a frame repairer.

Or, a clip on job but it's a bit agricultural. There are stick on one's but i've never tried them:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stick-On-3M-A ... Swc0FUpCCP

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-x-JAGWIRE-3 ... 0009.m1982

Jagwire have a reasonable reputation.

the shifter is now working after a good clean and manually moving the ratchet back into place, we'll see if it works on a bike, those guides look good to me although I super glued it back last night and it seems to be holding for now, failing that I was thinking epoxy resin of some kind.

I've also discovered a rounded off rear derailleur bolt and super stiff front mech, so all in all a pretty poor purchase

luv2ride

SKS Bluemels fitted to the Crosslight. Matt black version looks good against the white paintwork. Nifty bit of stay bending to clear the front Spyre disc calliper. Best of all the 45mm versions fit comfortably inside the fork legs and rear chainstays, and clear the 38mm Hyper Voyagers The new winter trainer / super commuter now ready, just need to fit the Topeak Backloader....

kingstonian

Fitting mudguards on my CAADX...........

Rear one done after much swearing.

The front one however............somehow, the muppets that are Cannondale haven't managed to line up the mudguard-fixing thread in the left fork with the hole you'd access it through. Plus, the bolt supplied to go through the crown of the forks isn't long enough. So bloody annoying, I started doing it late so now the shops are shut and I can't pop out to get a bolt, plus have no idea how to sort the other problem.

Oh, and while doing it I noticed I have a kink in the back wheel,which needs fixing too

pinno

Luv2ride wrote:

SKS Bluemels fitted to the Crosslight.

To a frame with no eyelets?

luv2ride

Pinno wrote:

Luv2ride wrote:

SKS Bluemels fitted to the Crosslight.

To a frame with no eyelets?

Crosslight Pro6 disc, 2014 vintage. Thankfully has eyelets front and rear.

veronese68

Kingstonian wrote:

Plus, the bolt supplied to go through the crown of the forks isn't long enough. So bloody annoying, I started doing it late so now the shops are shut and I can't pop out to get a bolt, plus have no idea how to sort the other problem.

Only just seen this. May have a suitable screw in the garage if you give me a shout later. Not sure what to do about the other issue without having a look. Might be a case of being able to open the hole up a little with a Dremel. But talk to the shop you bought it from first to get the go ahead. If that doesn't work and you have modified it you will struggle to claim any sort of warranty. If it's a manufacturing fault you have every right to get them to resolve it under warranty. But if it can be fixed easily it makes sense to try that if they give their approval, ideally in writing so they can't wriggle.

veronese68

Luv2ride wrote:

Pinno wrote:

Luv2ride wrote:

SKS Bluemels fitted to the Crosslight.

To a frame with no eyelets?

Crosslight Pro6 disc, 2014 vintage. Thankfully has eyelets front and rear.

Do new Crosslights not have eyelets?

keef66

Everyone else is attaching mudguards. My Chromoplastics are falling off. Friday's ride was accompanied by an increasingly loud and annoying rattle. Once home it was obvious the rear guard had parted company with one of the bits the stays bolt on to. Predictably the aluminium rivets had corroded to dust, but waited till the autumn equinox to give up the ghost completely. I've taken it off and punched out the remains of all 4 suspect rivets. First instinct was to borrow a pop rivet gun and do the same again, but I'm now contemplating some tiny SS nuts, bolts and washers for a more permanent fix. Anyone done this? The alu rivets are clearly a weak point in an otherwise robust construction.

I should probably have a look at the front too; wouldn't like that to come adrift when barrelling down a hill...

tgotb

One other mudguard-fitting gotcha: most frames/forks seem to be painted after the threads have been cut; this can make it quite a bit harder to get the screw started, and quite a lot easier to cross-thread it if you're not careful. Easily resolved by tapping out the thread with a cheap M5 tap (eBay) before you try to fit the mudguard.
If you can't be bothered with that, at the very least you should clean the threads out with a screw on its own; trying to clean out the threads with a screw that's being pushed into the wrong angle by a mudguard stay is asking for trouble...

veronese68

TGOTB wrote:

Easily resolved by tapping out the thread with a cheap M5 tap (eBay) before you try to fit the mudguard....

Good point, I have a selection of taps as well.

luv2ride

TGOTB wrote:

One other mudguard-fitting gotcha: most frames/forks seem to be painted after the threads have been cut; this can make it quite a bit harder to get the screw started, and quite a lot easier to cross-thread it if you're not careful. Easily resolved by tapping out the thread with a cheap M5 tap (eBay) before you try to fit the mudguard.
If you can't be bothered with that, at the very least you should clean the threads out with a screw on its own; trying to clean out the threads with a screw that's being pushed into the wrong angle by a mudguard stay is asking for trouble...

You're not wrong - but I did as you suggested and went easy when starting off screwing in the bolts so think I got away with it. What made fitting worse was running the bike over 2 previous winters without full guards, meaning some of the open threads were caked in dried-in mud and c**p, particularly behind the fork crown. I distinctly remember thinking when I built the bike up, "I should really plug those holes in case I want to fit mudguards later"...but never got around to it. The seat stay mounts did have bolts in from the factory, so were much easier to use when fitting the 'guards. Lesson learnt...

prawny

Managed to significantly wear the rear disc on my commuter after 12500 miles so replaced with a £3.50 special off ebay, seems loads better today, still a bit of life left in the old one so will fix it to my old knackered wheels as an emergency spare.

Also cleaned the old drivetrain up, time for another new chain before it eats the cassette, got 2000 miles out of this one even though I've only lubed it once and that was yesterday

kingstonian

Veronese68 wrote:

Kingstonian wrote:

Plus, the bolt supplied to go through the crown of the forks isn't long enough. So bloody annoying, I started doing it late so now the shops are shut and I can't pop out to get a bolt, plus have no idea how to sort the other problem.

Only just seen this. May have a suitable screw in the garage if you give me a shout later. Not sure what to do about the other issue without having a look. Might be a case of being able to open the hole up a little with a Dremel. But talk to the shop you bought it from first to get the go ahead. If that doesn't work and you have modified it you will struggle to claim any sort of warranty. If it's a manufacturing fault you have every right to get them to resolve it under warranty. But if it can be fixed easily it makes sense to try that if they give their approval, ideally in writing so they can't wriggle.

I've arranged for a place close to work to take a look at the rear wheel, which should be relatively easy to fix. They also said they'd see if they can sort out the front mudguard for me - fingers crossed !!!

I'm hoping they can figure it out, as the bike is a year old now and whilst likely to still be in warranty it will be a PITA that I could do without if I need to get it sorted via the warranty.

pinno

Luv2ride wrote:

TGOTB wrote:

One other mudguard-fitting gotcha: most frames/forks seem to be painted after the threads have been cut; this can make it quite a bit harder to get the screw started, and quite a lot easier to cross-thread it if you're not careful. Easily resolved by tapping out the thread with a cheap M5 tap (eBay) before you try to fit the mudguard.
If you can't be bothered with that, at the very least you should clean the threads out with a screw on its own; trying to clean out the threads with a screw that's being pushed into the wrong angle by a mudguard stay is asking for trouble...

You're not wrong - but I did as you suggested and went easy when starting off screwing in the bolts so think I got away with it. What made fitting worse was running the bike over 2 previous winters without full guards, meaning some of the open threads were caked in dried-in mud and c**p, particularly behind the fork crown. I distinctly remember thinking when I built the bike up, "I should really plug those holes in case I want to fit mudguards later"...but never got around to it. The seat stay mounts did have bolts in from the factory, so were much easier to use when fitting the 'guards. Lesson learnt...

Why not just fit more substantial rivets? I have now riveted the whole of my SKS Raceblade longs because of the flimsy clips. In fact, fudgey and I made a whole thread on it. It held together for 3 winters and looks like it may get through this one. I have every intention of buying a new set and riveting the lot together from the outset.
Washers help strengthen the fix:

viewtopic.php?f=40004&t=13000690&hilit=rivets+sks+mudguards&start=20#p19264258

...some waffle, skip a bit:

viewtopic.php?f=40004&t=13000690&hilit=rivets+sks+mudguards&start=40#p20071594