Thread To Tell Everyone What Fettling You've Just Done

DrLex

^
I keep a Park Tool brute in my ride pack, but I hear that the Mt Zoom one is smaller yet just as good.

timothyw

I've got one of these in the saddle bag - only had to use it in anger once or twice but hasn't let me down as yet:
http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/TOJWSSMT/j ... ex-key-set

In terms of my fettling, converted my new cross bike to single speed dedicated rain bike - the new Tiagra group has been stripped ready to go on my crit bike, overhauled the hub of my spare front disk wheel when it transpired that the fork wouldn't accept the nutted wheel I had intended to use.

UndercoverElephant

I have a Layzene multi tool:

https://www.lakes-cycles.com/lezyne-rap ... GwodP4QLhQ

which has the best chain breaker I've ever used. Way better than the Park Tools bike shop grade one I have in the garage.

davis

Gah. Cleaned the Roubaix, and found the following:

Rear wheel DS bearing is grumbling.
Freehub body is so chewed up there's about 10 degrees of free rotation by twisting different sprockets
Rear rim braking surface is dished.
Brake blocks are all shot.
Cassette is just about gone
Two outer chainrings have more pointy teeth than Jaws
Jockey wheels worn out
Headset bearings are notchy.

I think the bottom bracket's OK though! Might replace it anyway as I've got spares.
Going to be expensive (how bloody much for chainrings!?).

I'm never cleaning anything ever again.

wolfsbane2k

Strip down clean & drive train stripped to pieces to try and get rid of a torque wrench type click after replacing failing pedals & re-torqueing everything else.
No luck.
But highlighted that the crankset has a ring of rust, appears to be just surface, around the NDS bearing - BB was full of water

timothyw

Something in the drivechain slipping this morning on the new singlespeed build.... argh

Changed out the chainset which I'd be meaning to do anyway, still no joy.

Seems most likely on reflection that it is just the road outside my house is particularly steep and it needs running in.

Anyway, frustrating morning.

DrLex

davis wrote:

Gah. Cleaned the Roubaix, and found the following:

[...]
Going to be expensive (how bloody much for chainrings!?).

I'm never cleaning anything ever again.

Want to buy n+1? I'm just about to advertise my Roubaix Expert for sale.
(2011MY, 58cm, in Ric Chasey Oraaaange)

Man Of Lard

DrLex wrote:

... hear that the Mt Zoom one is smaller yet just as good.

Hmmm - the Mt Zoom one definitely looks interesting.

TimothyW wrote:

I've got one of these in the saddle bag - only had to use it in anger once or twice but hasn't let me down as yet:
http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/TOJWSSMT/j ... ex-key-set

PX isn't for me. Was treated like a pariah when they had an actual store in Edinburgh, despite having folding cash that I was willing to spend on a bike they had in stock. Will be a cold day in hell before I spend money in there.

UndercoverElephant wrote:

I have a Layzene multi tool:

https://www.lakes-cycles.com/lezyne-rap ... GwodP4QLhQ

Prefer a non-multitool so I can take the tools that I need (all the hex keyed nuts on my bike are 4mm or 5mm - no point in carting a multitool with 2.5, 3,4,5,6,8,...)

For now, I've chucked my Topeak Superbreaker (one of 4 I have in my tool stash) in the carry pouch, have a Wippermann chain tool & a Topeak Ninja C en route (given I've only had one chain break in the last 30000km, I shall probably never need one again out on the road )

MisterMuncher

Did the 10 sprockets from an 11 speed cassette on a 10 speed freebie thing to make a turbo wheel from an old, horrible OEM wheel. Shod it with the cheapest, wire-beaded rubbish the lbs had in stock. The cassette is surprisingly effective, and shifts well without any adjustment (good for me, as I have only one bike to cover racing and training, and don't need the hassle of indexing between indoors and out), remaining pretty quiet in doing so.

Maybe should have thought about which cog I dropped a little harder, though, as the 15t I took out is apparently my "tempo" gear on the turbo.

pinno

After weeks of an increasing problem of gears that would not run or change smoothly.
I tried:
1. Checking for chain wear
2. Badly aligned hanger
3. Loose hanger
4. Bent jockey wheel cage
5. Worn jockey wheels
6. Play in mech body
7. Worn cassette
8. Frayed gear cable (at some point)
9. Worn ergo lever
10. Did I mix up the 10 and 11 speed chains when I cleaned both summer and winter bikes simultaneously?
11. Problem under the BB shell... dirt... cable guide...
12. too much outer cable either at the front or the rear.

De nada, none of the above. Diddley squat.

All the usual suspects basically but I was totally stumped so I downloaded this:

https://www.campagnolo.com/media/files/ ... 3_2015.pdf

(Page 28)

With the chain off, according to the Campag PdF document, the top jockey wheel needs to be 7mm from the cassette sprocket. Never had to but ended up twiddling with the little screw on the rear mech hanger spring body (Campag R11).
You're supposed to check this with the chain off. Don't know how because the spring on the mech pushes it against the cassette. However, I figured that the upper jockey wheel was too far from the cassette with the chain on and adjusted it accordingly.
Who'd have thought?

Gears are now back tot heir best despite the warnings about serious injury or death.

itboffin

I love it when a plan comes together

rolf_f

Pinno wrote:

With the chain off, according to the Campag PdF document, the top jockey wheel needs to be 7mm from the cassette sprocket. Never had to but ended up twiddling with the little screw on the rear mech hanger spring body (Campag R11).
You're supposed to check this with the chain off. Don't know how because the spring on the mech pushes it against the cassette. However, I figured that the upper jockey wheel was too far from the cassette with the chain on and adjusted it accordingly.
Who'd have thought?

Gears are now back tot heir best despite the warnings about serious injury or death.

So, to summarise, when you've tried everything else, when all else has failed, when you wrack your brains and cannot think of a single thing left to do, when the forums can't help, then you should read the instructions.

davis

DrLex wrote:

davis wrote:

Gah. Cleaned the Roubaix, and found the following:

[...]
Going to be expensive (how bloody much for chainrings!?).

I'm never cleaning anything ever again.

Want to buy n+1? I'm just about to advertise my Roubaix Expert for sale.
(2011MY, 58cm, in Ric Chasey Oraaaange)

No but thanks. My 56cm is the most comfortable I've ever owned and I do genuinely love it. I'll fix the things, just haven't exactly got the money!

itboffin

Rolf F wrote:

Pinno wrote:

With the chain off, according to the Campag PdF document, the top jockey wheel needs to be 7mm from the cassette sprocket. Never had to but ended up twiddling with the little screw on the rear mech hanger spring body (Campag R11).
You're supposed to check this with the chain off. Don't know how because the spring on the mech pushes it against the cassette. However, I figured that the upper jockey wheel was too far from the cassette with the chain on and adjusted it accordingly.
Who'd have thought?

Gears are now back tot heir best despite the warnings about serious injury or death.

So, to summarise, when you've tried everything else, when all else has failed, when you wrack your brains and cannot think of a single thing left to do, when the forums can't help, then you should read the instructions.

Reading the manual is of course mans last resort perhaps second only to asking for directions

pinno

Rolf F wrote:

Pinno wrote:

With the chain off, according to the Campag PdF document, the top jockey wheel needs to be 7mm from the cassette sprocket. Never had to but ended up twiddling with the little screw on the rear mech hanger spring body (Campag R11).
You're supposed to check this with the chain off. Don't know how because the spring on the mech pushes it against the cassette. However, I figured that the upper jockey wheel was too far from the cassette with the chain on and adjusted it accordingly.
Who'd have thought?

Gears are now back tot heir best despite the warnings about serious injury or death.

So, to summarise, when you've tried everything else, when all else has failed, when you wrack your brains and cannot think of a single thing left to do, when the forums can't help, then you should read the instructions.

That's about it really. Except, posting a problem on a forum usually results in hand bags getting swung around pretty quickly. So I didn't bother.

@itb: As a result of the not asking for directions tendency, man has now invented the sat nav, No need to ask directions. Of course, it's a guaranteed fail safe system and never, ever goes wrong*. Why buy a £9.99 road map and have a look at it for a little while, pop it in the memory box and off you go when you can strap some £100+ gadget to the dash/handlebars and it will guide you through the universe unfailingly? It's a no brainer. That road map won't tell me to the nearest nano metre where the next junction is. Frikkin useless.

*Or needs charging, or updating, or has 'software compatibility issues', or gets lost/stolen/broken, or needs peripheries...

Pure Luddite me.

veronese68

Rolf F wrote:

So, to summarise, when you've tried everything else, when all else has failed, when you wrack your brains and cannot think of a single thing left to do, when the forums can't help, then you should read the instructions.

Around here I'd have thought n+1 would come into play long before looking at the instructions.

pinno

Veronese68 wrote:

Rolf F wrote:

So, to summarise, when you've tried everything else, when all else has failed, when you wrack your brains and cannot think of a single thing left to do, when the forums can't help, then you should read the instructions.

Around here I'd have thought n+1 would come into play long before looking at the instructions.

Can't fix it so I need another one. What a great idea.

veronese68

Pinno wrote:

Veronese68 wrote:

Rolf F wrote:

So, to summarise, when you've tried everything else, when all else has failed, when you wrack your brains and cannot think of a single thing left to do, when the forums can't help, then you should read the instructions.

Around here I'd have thought n+1 would come into play long before looking at the instructions.

Can't fix it so I need another one. What a great idea.

That's why ITB has so many bikes.

pinno

...and here was me thinking that none of them could support his weight.

itboffin

Veronese68 wrote:

Pinno wrote:

Veronese68 wrote:

Rolf F wrote:

So, to summarise, when you've tried everything else, when all else has failed, when you wrack your brains and cannot think of a single thing left to do, when the forums can't help, then you should read the instructions.

Around here I'd have thought n+1 would come into play long before looking at the instructions.

Can't fix it so I need another one. What a great idea.

That's why ITB has so many bikes.

Gave one away a couple of weeks ago, no point having three commuter bikes when i'm no longer commuting

itboffin

finally gotten around to replacing the rusted outers and fraying inners on my winter training bike, all good once i sourced some campag inners, fitted it all together and the SOB wouldnt shift down, 9 up just fine sometimes 7-8 sometimes 2-3

as a last resort I took the well bashed shifter off and had a look inside, full of years of thick dusty grease, after a quick scrub out with a brush and refitting to the bike normal beautiful campag shifting once again.

then it was on to the seriously bent rear mech hanger - put it in the vice and bashed it hard with a hammer, i'm assuming now death will shortly follow :roll:

pinno

itboffin wrote:

...i'm assuming now death will shortly follow :roll:

Without a doubt. It's because you are not a fully fledged Campagnolo service professional.
Any last wishes?

Now here's a thing. I jumped on the rollers for an hour today on account of being Dad's taxi and on toots duties, as is every Wednesday. OH at work. Not much time.
10 mins into the 'ride' and there's this rear mech noise. 'Oh no, here we go' I thought to myself. Then I resorted to concentrating hard on what exactly the noise was being created from. My heart was in my boots having only just cured a previous problem. Perhaps I should peruse that PdF file again. I'll keep pedalling, looking at the mech alignment, changing gear - it was smooth, snappy... no obvious faults. Could I pedal backwards? Yep, same noise. Get off the saddle and sprint.. Hang on, that's quiet...
I get off the bike and flex the saddle. The noise is evident; it's coming from the elastomer's in my fancy Selle Italia. Noises don't half get amplified on a CF frame.
I presumed, perhaps wrongly that grease or WD40 would affect the elastomer so elected to use some petroleum jelly. It's maybe worse than grease but it worked.

itboffin

Pinno wrote:

itboffin wrote:

...i'm assuming now death will shortly follow :roll:

Without a doubt. It's because you are not a fully fledged Campagnolo service professional.
Any last wishes?

Yes i wish to be BBQ'd and eaten by the guests at my lavish wake, is that weird?

pinno

Depends. If you want to be served up with mayonnaise and frites, yes but if you want to have an apple in your mouth, be basted with Honey and served with Marmalade or English mustard and washed down with Old Speckled Hen, no.

davis

itboffin wrote:

Pinno wrote:

itboffin wrote:

...i'm assuming now death will shortly follow :roll:

Without a doubt. It's because you are not a fully fledged Campagnolo service professional.
Any last wishes?

Yes i wish to be BBQ'd and eaten by the guests at my lavish wake, is that weird?

Only if you suggest a spit roast...

MrSweary

Removed the new Izumi chain from the Paddy Wagon and replaced it with a newer KMC510 this morning. Drivetrain now silent and beautiful.

dhope

MrSweary wrote:

Removed the new Izumi chain from the Paddy Wagon and replaced it with a newer KMC510 this morning. Drivetrain now silent and beautiful.

KMC510?



Nice. Splashguard should help on rainy days and the flexi beater sounds good to use against RLJ and pedestrians.
Surely the 1000W motor is against commuting etiquette though?

MrSweary

dhope wrote:

MrSweary wrote:

Removed the new Izumi chain from the Paddy Wagon and replaced it with a newer KMC510 this morning. Drivetrain now silent and beautiful.

KMC510?



Nice. Splashguard should help on rainy days and the flexi beater sounds good to use against RLJ and pedestrians.
Surely the 1000W motor is against commuting etiquette though?

This time next year everyone will have one.. you wait.

edit : and it'll still be quieter than that fudging Izumi chain...

redvee

After fiddling with the rear brake the commute London Road I fitted a new cable lubed with chain lube over along with new pads and rotor. All working well, just needed to bed them all in today but the rode in was wet so that has been delayed till tomorrow hopefully when it's dry(er).

luv2ride

OE Durano's off the Solace Disc, replaced with 28mm Continental GP 4000s ii's. Happy to say they actually come up at 30mm on the wide rims so, as I bought the frame for its bigger tyre clearance, I'm happy. Tyres went on easily enough. Let's see if I can tell if they're lighter and/or roll better, if only for the placebo effect.

Still struggled getting the rear wheel back in, aligned with the disc calliper and rotor (through-axle). I must be missing a trick for easily removing and re-fitting rear disc wheels. Have the same issue with my Crosslight (Sram Rival 10 sp and QR), but the 11sp Ultegra wasn't any easier. Is there a knack?