Thread To Tell Everyone What Fettling You've Just Done

itboffin

changed four chains all of which were well over 1 marker on the tool, some even worse oops

itboffin

hopkinb wrote:

New bottom bracket, cassette, chain, indexed rear shifting. Good old clean and grease of everything else. New front brake pads. Wondering whether I need new chainrings. Ditto new gear cables. Hydraulics seem fine, though they've never been bled. Bike maintenance is never ending once you start....

^ this ^ but that said on the club ride this morning only my bike shifted perfectly every time and made no noises

Thick Mike

Talking of which, reindexed my gears as they were chattering and grumbling a bit on Thursday. Went for a test drive and they are silent...bliss!

meanredspider

Topped up the sealant in my Schwalbe S-Ones. Messy bloody stuff even with a syringe. And absolutely no evidence that it has ever saved me from a flat.

I'm keeping discs and, at the first sensible opportunity, shunning tubeless.

MrSweary

New headset cups pressed in on the paddy wagon and headset fitted.

redvee

Bought some blingy alloy jockey wheels so fitted them last night and rode to work with them today. Bad move. Rear mech was ghost shifting several times during the ride so the original Shimano plastic pulleys have gone back on.

MrSweary

Enjoying working on the Paddy Wagon at the moment. Removed the old crown race and fitted the new one. Properly installed the headset. Got the old BB off courtesy of the teh internets and some elbow grease. Cleaned, greased and installed the new one. Installed new cranks.

Tried to get the freewheel off again. No luck. I have one more idea then its going to the lbs. Undecided whether to shell out for a White Industries freewheel or go with cheap replaceable ones. Given the trouble I've had with this one I'm inclined to go for the White...

UndercoverElephant

meanredspider wrote:

Topped up the sealant in my Schwalbe S-Ones. Messy bloody stuff even with a syringe. And absolutely no evidence that it has ever saved me from a flat.

I'm keeping discs and, at the first sensible opportunity, shunning tubeless.

Mine saved me from two this morning! As I got the bike out of the garage, I heard the rear go, as the hole reached the bottom, it stopped. Didn't wait, just got on and rode in. As I was going through Prestonpans, the front went also - didn't even stop riding. Fantastic stuff!

Also re-indexed the 105 on the Pinnacle - it had been way off and riding the CR1 with Chorus last week made me remember how nice good shifting was. Still nowhere near as good as Chorus, but much better than it was.

ryan_w-2

New rear mech hanger and chain installed. Like having a new bike, didn't know how bad my chain obviously was!

arthur_scrimshaw

Doing the Fnrttc London to Shoreham in a few weeks so thought I'd replace the 25-11 cassette with something a little more easy on the legs, new chain and tyres. Ready to go!

davis

Arthur Scrimshaw wrote:

Doing the Fnrttc London to Shoreham in a few weeks so thought I'd replace the 25-11 cassette with something a little more easy on the legs, new chain and tyres. Ready to go!

Needs a bit of a clean up there pal

imafatman

davis wrote:

Arthur Scrimshaw wrote:

Doing the Fnrttc London to Shoreham in a few weeks so thought I'd replace the 25-11 cassette with something a little more easy on the legs, new chain and tyres. Ready to go!

Needs a bit of a clean up there pal

I don't know how people ride bikes like that covered in muck.

arthur_scrimshaw

Tough crowd
I'll admit to being a bit ocd about my bikes.

UndercoverElephant

So, I've been having a lot of trouble with the rear disc brake on the Pinnacle. It's a Shimano XT-grade caliper, but all it does is shriek at pedestrians. I mean, in its way it's quite useful, but I feel that stopping is probably more helpful.

So, after trying a new rotor, new pads, cleaning, braking in, cleaning, sanding pads, cleaning, new pads, etc. I've decided to replace the 140mm rotor with a 160mm one. The articles on Campag's offering says that they recommend this for the huskier gentleman and I like the 160mm rotor on the front so I thought I'd give it a go.

It's early days, but given the quick test I did in the bike shed, I estimate that the brake is now approximately 15% louder than before.

Arsicles!

hopkinb

UndercoverElephant wrote:

So, I've been having a lot of trouble with the rear disc brake on the Pinnacle. It's a Shimano XT-grade caliper, but all it does is shriek at pedestrians. I mean, in its way it's quite useful, but I feel that stopping is probably more helpful.

So, after trying a new rotor, new pads, cleaning, braking in, cleaning, sanding pads, cleaning, new pads, etc. I've decided to replace the 140mm rotor with a 160mm one. The articles on Campag's offering says that they recommend this for the huskier gentleman and I like the 160mm rotor on the front so I thought I'd give it a go.

It's early days, but given the quick test I did in the bike shed, I estimate that the brake is now approximately 15% louder than before.

Arsicles!

Weird - I only get squeal from my discs in the wet, and even then only if everything is filthy. In todays damp conditions, my new front pad and freshly cleaned rotor were silent, while the old and filthy rear was screaming like a stuck pig. In the dry, all is silent. Do you use organic pads?

meanredspider

UndercoverElephant wrote:

So, I've been having a lot of trouble with the rear disc brake on the Pinnacle. It's a Shimano XT-grade caliper, but all it does is shriek at pedestrians. I mean, in its way it's quite useful, but I feel that stopping is probably more helpful.

So, after trying a new rotor, new pads, cleaning, braking in, cleaning, sanding pads, cleaning, new pads, etc. I've decided to replace the 140mm rotor with a 160mm one. The articles on Campag's offering says that they recommend this for the huskier gentleman and I like the 160mm rotor on the front so I thought I'd give it a go.

It's early days, but given the quick test I did in the bike shed, I estimate that the brake is now approximately 15% louder than before.

Arsicles!

Rear brakes are way overrated. Apply the brakes hard and rear does nothing. Apply the brakes gently and you don't need a rear brake

tgotb

UndercoverElephant wrote:

It's early days, but given the quick test I did in the bike shed, I estimate that the brake is now approximately 15% louder than before.

Hmmm, interesting. So noise scales with diameter rather than with area...

UndercoverElephant

meanredspider wrote:

Rear brakes are way overrated. Apply the brakes hard and rear does nothing. Apply the brakes gently and you don't need a rear brake

Hang on, how about doing big long skids?

hopkinb wrote:

Weird - I only get squeal from my discs in the wet, and even then only if everything is filthy. In todays damp conditions, my new front pad and freshly cleaned rotor were silent, while the old and filthy rear was screaming like a stuck pig. In the dry, all is silent. Do you use organic pads?

Sintered at the moment, I think. Seemed reasonable given they have to stop my 90 kgs.

TGOTB wrote:

Hmmm, interesting. So noise scales with diameter rather than with area...

I would guess that the noise has actually increased in-line with the circumference, which is directly proportional to the diameter, since the disc is not solid

hopkinb

UndercoverElephant wrote:

hopkinb wrote:

Weird - I only get squeal from my discs in the wet, and even then only if everything is filthy. In todays damp conditions, my new front pad and freshly cleaned rotor were silent, while the old and filthy rear was screaming like a stuck pig. In the dry, all is silent. Do you use organic pads?

Sintered at the moment, I think. Seemed reasonable given they have to stop my 90 kgs.

I'm 85kg and then 10kg of bike, I use superstar black (organic) or red (Kevlar) for my sram hydro brakes. I can do big massive fishtaily skids and endos with those pads. Probably need replacing more often, but I don't think I can get sintered for my brakes.

meanredspider

UndercoverElephant wrote:

meanredspider wrote:

Rear brakes are way overrated. Apply the brakes hard and rear does nothing. Apply the brakes gently and you don't need a rear brake

Hang on, how about doing big long skids?

On the road or in your bibs because your brakes haven't worked...?

Man Of Lard

Not on my bike... A workmate's - cassette removal (using my 2013 vintage Decathlon not-a-chain-whip - he's off to Decathlon tonight to buy one for himself (that's the 9th or 10th one I've "sold")) & replacement.

oldbazza

Old pf-30 bb out and shiny new C-Bear one fitted.

rsdop

MrSweary wrote:

Tried to get the freewheel off again. No luck. I have one more idea then its going to the lbs. Undecided whether to shell out for a White Industries freewheel or go with cheap replaceable ones. Given the trouble I've had with this one I'm inclined to go for the White...

I've got a White Industries on my Paddy Wagon, it's ace. They are expensive but you can see and feel the quality of them. People seem to rate the Shimano freewheels but I somehow got through 3 in a year and it's not fun when they slip!
If you have the proper removal tool the old one should come off with a bit of a tap.

itboffin

meanredspider wrote:

UndercoverElephant wrote:

meanredspider wrote:

Rear brakes are way overrated. Apply the brakes hard and rear does nothing. Apply the brakes gently and you don't need a rear brake

Hang on, how about doing big long skids?

On the road or in your bibs because your brakes haven't worked...?

We had a full grown deer jump into out of and back into the road on a fast descent on the Saturday club ride, FDJ shorts time all round

MrSweary

rsdop wrote:

MrSweary wrote:

Tried to get the freewheel off again. No luck. I have one more idea then its going to the lbs. Undecided whether to shell out for a White Industries freewheel or go with cheap replaceable ones. Given the trouble I've had with this one I'm inclined to go for the White...

I've got a White Industries on my Paddy Wagon, it's ace. They are expensive but you can see and feel the quality of them. People seem to rate the Shimano freewheels but I somehow got through 3 in a year and it's not fun when they slip!
If you have the proper removal tool the old one should come off with a bit of a tap.

The current one is a Shimano and it wont budge so I'll drop it into the shop. White on order!

itboffin

not mine but a friends Trek madone has been making a terrible noise and i noticed the headset had play, removed it and found the rear bearing rusted to bits, he also has the worst shifting ever so i reindexed the front and back but for the life of me I couldn't get the rear to consistently up/down shift.

Then he says he'd had rear dropout damage a few years back and the straightened it, alu drops carbon frame - yikes!

anyway they're also a large 1mm spacer on the drive side BB, anyone ever seen such a thing?

I'm thinking the bodged repair is why the rear just wont play ball, other than that its perfectly set up and only requires a tiny amount of over shift to work perfect.

Man Of Lard

itboffin wrote:

We had a full grown deer jump into out of and back into the road on a fast descent on the Saturday club ride, FDJ shorts time all round

AG2r surely?

itboffin

ah yes you are correct

redvee

rsdop wrote:

MrSweary wrote:

Tried to get the freewheel off again. No luck. I have one more idea then its going to the lbs. Undecided whether to shell out for a White Industries freewheel or go with cheap replaceable ones. Given the trouble I've had with this one I'm inclined to go for the White...

I've got a White Industries on my Paddy Wagon, it's ace. They are expensive but you can see and feel the quality of them. People seem to rate the Shimano freewheels but I somehow got through 3 in a year and it's not fun when they slip!
If you have the proper removal tool the old one should come off with a bit of a tap.

I've made my Shimano freewheels last nearly two years and that was riding in all weathers, when they sounded rough I opened them up and lubed them with chain lube. I made the change to WI when I spotted one cheap from US on Ebay , it lasted well and made a nice noise.

MrSweary

redvee wrote:

rsdop wrote:

MrSweary wrote:

Tried to get the freewheel off again. No luck. I have one more idea then its going to the lbs. Undecided whether to shell out for a White Industries freewheel or go with cheap replaceable ones. Given the trouble I've had with this one I'm inclined to go for the White...

I've got a White Industries on my Paddy Wagon, it's ace. They are expensive but you can see and feel the quality of them. People seem to rate the Shimano freewheels but I somehow got through 3 in a year and it's not fun when they slip!
If you have the proper removal tool the old one should come off with a bit of a tap.

I've made my Shimano freewheels last nearly two years and that was riding in all weathers, when they sounded rough I opened them up and lubed them with chain lube. I made the change to WI when I spotted one cheap from US on Ebay , it lasted well and made a nice noise.

Yeah - this one is toast and I'm gearing up anyway so it has to go - it just doesn't want to!

Picked up the WI one from Condor this morning - it comes in a pretty box nestled in wool. It just feels quality.