Thread To Tell Everyone What Fettling You've Just Done

Irvinet

Thanks all for the tips. I will see if I can track down some Plus Gas or Duck Oil and have another crack at it.

Meanwhile, have to see if I can get or make a 4 foot long 1/8 chain whip.

_Brun_

Irvinet wrote:

Thanks all for the tips. I will see if I can track down some Plus Gas or Duck Oil and have another crack at it.

Meanwhile, have to see if I can get or make a 4 foot long 1/8 chain whip.

Did you see my post above? Seriously, I thought I was gonna snap my chain whip in two and had all but given up. Searched google, chanced upon a post on this forum by Oddjob62, and it was all sorted ten minutes later.

Irvinet

_Brun_ wrote:

Irvinet wrote:

Thanks all for the tips. I will see if I can track down some Plus Gas or Duck Oil and have another crack at it.

Meanwhile, have to see if I can get or make a 4 foot long 1/8 chain whip.

Did you see my post above? Seriously, I thought I was gonna snap my chain whip in two and had all but given up. Searched google, chanced upon a post on this forum by Oddjob62, and it was all sorted ten minutes later.

I will certainly give it a go! I have always been a bit wary of rotafixing incase I damage the bb... bit of padding on that section of the chain should do it though I guess.

Thanks!

whyamihere

Was having some shifting issues today on the commuter bike. I'm somewhat used to it, as it's a bit bodged together. At the moment, I'm running Campagnolo shifters and mechs with a Shimano pattern wheel and a converter cassette, so it's never going to be perfect. This was a lot worse though, I just couldn't get the shifting sweet at the larger end of the cassette.

Swapped out the Champ Triple mech for an old Veloce double I had, and magically the shifting was perfect. Problem: I'm running 3 chainrings, so I thought I'd have to lock one out. Not so, apparently Camapgnolo's short cage mechs can actually cope with a triple. It's damned close, but it works.

Need to try to find the receipt for the Champ, that's obviously been the problem all along.

shoulder_of_orion

Right. So finally:

• ultegra shifters installed to replace sora
• new cables, inners, outers & caps
• new chain including new fecking master link
• new pads
• new bar tape

Feels like a new bike.

Watch out if on embankment in the morning and traveling west.

CarlosDSanchez

I fitted a new front wheel with schmidt SON dyno hub in my lunch break, fitted and wired a Schmidt edelux front light as well. Now making the wiring loom for the B & M rear light on the train on my commute home. Other passengers are looking a little worried, especialy when I asked to borrow a lighter for the shrink sleeve to insulate the terminal connections.

itboffin

I let some air out of my tires ... border line I know

redvee

Going to try and fit my Cateye LED to the rear stays on my bike, too much of a short ass for it to fit on the seatpost with the saddlebag which already has a light on it. Any suggestions for a mounting solution so that both lights are in the same axis on the bike?

itboffin

redvee wrote:

Going to try and fit my Cateye LED to the rear stays on my bike, too much of a short ass for it to fit on the seatpost with the saddlebag which already has a light on it. Any suggestions for a mounting solution so that both lights are in the same axis on the bike?

Heres a tip for you put little frog style lights on both rear stays I think there called stays.... let me check

Edit: yep seat stays

DevUK

Removed front and rear mech, as well as cables. Ready for gear overhaul on Saturday

robminimal

Lopped about 4 inches off each side of an old pair of Icon flat bars for my frankenstein vintage specialized fixie build, plugged them with wine corks and a bit of mallet work. Should prob have put the grips on first come to think of it!
Also got the spanners out and adjusted the chaintugs on the trailstar to set the wheelbase long to do some rippin DH tomorrow instead of going to work, adjusted the shivers and admired the beauty, happy days.
Not a hope in hell those clip on aero's are gonna fit on the fixie's flats now!

Buckled_Rims

Pulled the rear wheel off my MTB to grease the bearings only to find I can't find the 17mm cone wrenches...doh...can't remember where they are. So, pulled the XT cassette apart and did a deep clean. It looks great now.

cjcp

Patched up a couple of tyres.
Fitted my new lights. They're ace.

Jamey

New tyres and cables. Forgot what an absolute pain brand new Marathon Plusses are to fit for the first time. Think I've got RSI in my thumbs.

Also discovered that I probably didn't mess up the fitting on my old set of sealed cables. Transfil Mudlovers don't quite have enough splay at the end of the liner and consequently it can actually travel through the hole in the ferrule (which doesn't help matters by being needlessly large) quite easily.

I'm hoping I've solved it by slicing at 'X' into the end of the liner and deliberately splaying it much more, albeit in four separate pieces rather than one round one. Only time will tell though. Fingers crossed. If it doesn't work I'll probably go back to normal cables tbh.

magibob

Yesterday:- Found small toolholder/saddlebag obstructed rear light. Seatstay tubing too thin to fit Light to. Cut up old Inner tube. Wrapped 4" of tube round Seatstay, held it in place with cable tie, fitted light to seat stay on top of inner tube. Neat and secure job. Pathetically proud of my efforts.

Today:- Removed rear light, and re-fitted on the correct side.


Andy

redvee

redvee wrote:

Going to try and fit my Cateye LED to the rear stays on my bike, too much of a short ass for it to fit on the seatpost with the saddlebag which already has a light on it. Any suggestions for a mounting solution so that both lights are in the same axis on the bike?

Failed to find a solution to mount it to the seatstays, thanks ITB, so have now made a small hole in the Topeak saddle bag and have it mounted below in a horizontal plane with the MArs 3.0 in a vertical plane just above. Looks like a lot of people will be playing with lights and mountings in the next few days or have been.

jonginge

Finally got around to re-indexing the scott after having jumping gears going up whitedown a few weeks ago. Hmm, cables seem to have stretched a bit... but all sorted now

fossyant

Tidied up the garage, and managed to get a car full of junk (and two bin bags of recycling) out of there.....

Lot's of space for the bikes now......

chronyx

Fitted a 90mm stem to my SCR2 and took it out for a 22 mile ride today well chuffed, haven't touched it for ages!

PBo

Magibob wrote:

Yesterday:- Found small toolholder/saddlebag obstructed rear light. Seatstay tubing too thin to fit Light to. Cut up old Inner tube. Wrapped 4" of tube round Seatstay, held it in place with cable tie, fitted light to seat stay on top of inner tube. Neat and secure job. Pathetically proud of my efforts.

Today:- Removed rear light, and re-fitted on the correct side.


Andy

yup, done a similar bodge on to my rack, using old handle bar grips to achieve same effect.

eeerrrr is there a correct side??

As for my fettling - finally fixed a computer to my bike, that was a xmas present ...in 2007!?!?!?

In my defence, it's speed and cadence, and not wireless, so just couldn't get it to fit right to the bike I had at the time...

MonkeyMonster

PBo wrote:

eeerrrr is there a correct side??

The one on the right side from looking behind as would a car... otherwise the wheel can impeed view.

Gazzaputt

Swapped full SRAM Rival grouppo for the Shimano Tiagra the bike had on Saturday.

Only problem was not noticing the rear wheel wasn't fully sitting in the drop outs.

Running lovely now I love SRAM shifting.

Irvinet

_Brun_ wrote:

Irvinet wrote:

Thanks all for the tips. I will see if I can track down some Plus Gas or Duck Oil and have another crack at it.

Meanwhile, have to see if I can get or make a 4 foot long 1/8 chain whip.

Did you see my post above? Seriously, I thought I was gonna snap my chain whip in two and had all but given up. Searched google, chanced upon a post on this forum by Oddjob62, and it was all sorted ten minutes later.

Had time to have another go on Saturday. Reverse Rotafix sorted it. Had to apply a worrying amount of force to the wheel but it came free. Thanks for the tip!

Swapped the old brake for a nice new black shimano 105 as well. Damn that was hard work, old brake was practically welded to the fork from corosion. Had to hacksaw it off and drive the pin out with a hammer and centre punch in the end.... fun. New brake is well worth the effort though, very happy with it.

magibob

PBo wrote:

Magibob wrote:

Yesterday:- Found small toolholder/saddlebag obstructed rear light. Seatstay tubing too thin to fit Light to. Cut up old Inner tube. Wrapped 4" of tube round Seatstay, held it in place with cable tie, fitted light to seat stay on top of inner tube. Neat and secure job. Pathetically proud of my efforts.

Today:- Removed rear light, and re-fitted on the correct side.


Andy

yup, done a similar bodge on to my rack, using old handle bar grips to achieve same effect.

eeerrrr is there a correct side??

...

It should be on the outside, ie away from the kerb. I'm English, but living in Spain. Getting things on te right side, is almost as difficult as getting the Tyre on the right way round.

Andy

biondino

The Jackson is now in the shop to have its odd spider-eating-chainstay problem resolved (by all accounts it simply Shouldn't Be Happening, so Holdsworth are baffled). So I am on the alarmingly rattly Focus which itself will be in the shop next week when I finally get it some proper TLC, and replace the drivetrain.

biondino

So tonight I did some PROPER fettling. I took apart my new MKS Sylvan track pedals (which, brand new, felt a bit grindy - as they did in the shop when I checked them yesterday), greased the bearings, and sealed, as best I could, the unsealed area with grease. It took FOUR spanners/wrenches, and some tricky and tough effort, but I managed it and now both pedals are much smoother and hopefully less open to the elements!

CdrJake

Today has been mostly doing work on NGale's dads bike, an old Apollo Europa!

the list of work includes, new cracks, break cables, cassette, saddle, gear cables, tyres, inner tubes and chain clean.

Have to stay on the good side of the girlfriends father

Niffleman

I have been riding a Bianchi Cameleonte 2 for a couple of years. It is a flat bar road bike with a Shimano Sora drivetrain and in two years alll I have done is replace the odd cable and put a couple of new chains on. Today was big fettle time when the Bianchi finally got some love. My heart was in my mouth but I had checked the Park tools web site and I changed the bottom bracket, the cassette, the rear mech, the chainwheels on the triple up front, the chain and the rear gear cable.

My advice to anyone is get the tools, find out what you need to do and go ahead and do it. My LBS, Action Bikes in Ipswich were also really helpful in advising me on the bottom bracket. Tomorrow is a shake down ride, so I'm hoping for the best! :roll:

m0scs

After hearing some unpleasant graunching noises from the rear disc brake I removed the pads to find that they were totally shot. And scrapping the metal on the pad away.

Can't use bike again till I get a new set via wiggle.

Other than on the turbo trainer!

redvee

Might have to replace the pads in the rear brake, making grinding type noises as I rode home but did put some reflective black tape on the frame & forks, need more though.