Thread To Tell Everyone What Fettling You've Just Done
Comments
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Removed my Defy mudguards as the back one broke and was rubbing like hell. Going for some Crud ones soon and hope they are better - never been happy with the Defy ones although my LBS say they are great._________________________________________________
Pinarello Dogma 2 (ex Team SKY) 2012
Cube Agree GTC Ultegra 2012
Giant Defy 105 20090 -
Bah, in a fit of madness I slipped the cranks on and did them up. All done up as tight as I can, it looks like a real bike now
Just need brakes, rear sprocket /spacers and a chain and I'm done! 0 -
Redone the mount for the Tesco 3w torch onto the stem of the Defy, as the previous one had squished and was pointing the beam into oncoming driver's faces, which they were indicating was not a pleasant experience
Still can't stop it's intermittent failure to produce light though - and whacking it whilst doing 20mph down a pitch black B road isn't much fun!
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Not a great weekend, fettling-wise, but found time to oil the wheel on my son's trailer bike, practically eliminating annoying squeaking (you can never fully eliminate annoying squeaking when a three-year-old is involved). OK, so I didn't do a proper job but squirting oil into the bearings seemed a reasonable compromise, given that he won't be using it for much longer.0
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Finally, after 3500 miles, replaced the (never punctured, but pretty cut up) Ultremo on my front wheel. Also re-greased my seat post on the fixie as it was making one hell of a creaky racket after being ridden in the rain last week. Also raised it a bit, which is comfy to ride but means I am standing on the very end of my tippytoe when waiting at the light!0
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Well, there's an incentive to improve your trackstandingbiondino wrote:...Also re-greased my seat post on the fixie as it was making one hell of a creaky racket after being ridden in the rain last week. Also raised it a bit, which is comfy to ride but means I am standing on the very end of my tippytoe when waiting at the light!
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Saturday: swapped out the rear wheel on an old (unused by me) bike I purchased last year and put it on my Sirrus as a stop gap while I order a handbuilt set that'll cope with my weight :oops: . Decided to risk not swapping over the cassette as both are part worn. This has upped my lowest gear, but as I haven't used the bottom gear for months, I should cope (until the next Ide Hill expedition). The gears seem to have survived, but now I occasionally have a slight clunk, like the start of a gear change, from the front - possibly BB?0
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Put some new cleats on my commute shoes last night and fully expected to have to tweak the position of them when I got in this morning as the old ones weren't in the right place, having to try again to clip in sometimes but the ride in was OK, perfect location. The soles are worn too much TBH and was hoping the Aldi shoes would come good.I've added a signature to prove it is still possible.0
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My Dog Fang finally arrived after 4 weeks (thank to the mail strike) - fitted it last night. It looks fairly unobtrusive, and will hopefully do the job of keeping the chain in check..David
Engineered Bicycles0 -
Replaced the chainring on the Bowery - it was pretty tired:
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All the bits have arrived for The Pig, so the entire driveline will be new, and with a bit more fiddling (wheel truing and some minor adjustments) it should be running better than when it left the bike shop
. Should keep me busy tonight! David
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Roastie, do you call your bike THE Pig so that it sounds like you're referring to an object rather than having a cutesie pet name for it
I might fit my new pedals tonight, which involves putting on pedals AND toeclips AND straps. Hardcore!0 -
biondino wrote:Roastie, do you call your bike THE Pig so that it sounds like you're referring to an object rather than having a cutesie pet name for it I dunno - haven't given it much thought. I think because it was in such a state to start with, it was an absolute pig to ride..
Anyhow, said fettling of The Pig had to wait until Saturday afternoon:
- Fitted new chain, cluster
- Fitted correct width BB
- Sorted out the front and rear gear indexing and limits
- Stripped and overhauled hubs (the front is a bit dodgy, so will need replacement soon)
- New rear brake cable
- Cut down bars (only 23mm per side, so not stupidly narrow)
- Fitted bar ends
- Fitted rear mudguard
The Pig now runs beautifully - almost like a new bike. The gears shifting is slick, the drivetrain can take evey ounce of power I give it. Actually, Blondie, you know what? The Pig is a term of endearment!David
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Lazy weekend again. Fitted Cateye rack-brackets to racks on both commuter and MTB. Much swearing and gnashing of teeth later, removed the bracket from the commuter, fitted the light, and then refitted the bracket. Now looks very smart, but much more hassle that I thought it was going to be!0
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Great ride in this morning after a half-hour fettle yesterday afternoon. The first real time since I built it up when new.
1) Properly adjusted limits on front dérailleur. No more clicky sounds.
2) Same at the back and re-indexed. Running sweet as can be now, instant changes, virtually silent.
3)Trued rear wheel slightly.
4) Adjusted rubbing rear brake.
Finally worked out how to do rear dérailleur's quickly and easily! 0 -
UndercoverElephant wrote:
Finally worked out how to do rear dérailleur's quickly and easily!
Go on then, share!0 -
Roastie wrote:biondino wrote:Roastie, do you call your bike THE Pig so that it sounds like you're referring to an object rather than having a cutesie pet name for it I dunno - haven't given it much thought. I think because it was in such a state to start with, it was an absolute pig to ride..
Anyhow, said fettling of The Pig had to wait until Saturday afternoon:
- Fitted new chain, cluster
- Fitted correct width BB
- Sorted out the front and rear gear indexing and limits
- Stripped and overhauled hubs (the front is a bit dodgy, so will need replacement soon)
- New rear brake cable
- Cut down bars (only 23mm per side, so not stupidly narrow)
- Fitted bar ends
- Fitted rear mudguard
The Pig now runs beautifully - almost like a new bike. The gears shifting is slick, the drivetrain can take evey ounce of power I give it. Actually, Blondie, you know what? The Pig is a term of endearment!
Linsen and I saw a wild pig this weekend and I thought of your bike 0 -
rhext wrote:Go on then, share!
Oh, OK, I just figured that everyone else knew. :oops:
Right, first step is to set the high limit screw. Go into the big cog at the back and pull the exposed bit of the cable along your down-tube cable even tighter, your dérailleur shouldn't move further than level with the big cog, and the jockey wheels should be in line with this. Turn the screw until this happens. Then say, "aw bugger!", and turn the other screw.
Next step is the low limit, go into the smallest cog at the back, and undo the gear cable. Again, your jockey wheels should be in line with the smallest cog. Adjust the other limit screw to make this happen. Then say, "Jeez, I only just got that wrong last time, you'd think I'd remember!".
Now for the indexing: Pull the loosened cable with some grippy pliers, so that it **just** starts to move the jockey wheels inwards. Tighten the screw to grip the cable and you should be done.0 -
Gave the Atala a good going over on Sunday, but can't seem to fix the nightmare problem I've got with the front deralier - It won't change down from the big>small ring without a helping hand (IE, lean down and press it into place - Not keen on this has have already touched wheel and almost inserted fibger into spokes while doing so.)
Apart from that it's all shiny and clean. Once I've sorted out what I'm going to do with the brakes then there's more to be done!FCN: 50 -
Fettling eh?
Bought & fitted some big lights. 2 x fronts, big powerful jobbies that light the road up superbly, and a Cateye TLD1100 on the back that attracts planes.
And the cycling equivalent of a scale & polish for the front wheel - bearings out, all surfaces cleaned & tidied, bearings replaced in some nice new grease, and tightened to perfection. Nice.
No excuses for the winter now. Kitted out, lit up, ready to go.0 -
some running repairs to the Brompton after a visit from the p*ncture fairy along with a general brake check as they weren't feeling as decisive as I would like them to.
work for this weekend on the road bike, new handlebars to be installed and general service of the Madone. A quick service of the lovely ladies bike to make sure it dosen't try and throw her into a ditch as it did last week.twitter: @JakeM19690 -
UndercoverElephant wrote:rhext wrote:Go on then, share!
Oh, OK, I just figured that everyone else knew. :oops:
Right, first step is to set the high limit screw. Go into the big cog at the back and pull the exposed bit of the cable along your down-tube cable even tighter, your dérailleur shouldn't move further than level with the big cog, and the jockey wheels should be in line with this. Turn the screw until this happens. Then say, "aw bugger!", and turn the other screw.
Next step is the low limit, go into the smallest cog at the back, and undo the gear cable. Again, your jockey wheels should be in line with the smallest cog. Adjust the other limit screw to make this happen. Then say, "Jeez, I only just got that wrong last time, you'd think I'd remember!".
Now for the indexing: Pull the loosened cable with some grippy pliers, so that it **just** starts to move the jockey wheels inwards. Tighten the screw to grip the cable and you should be done.
Ta, that's helpful! I'd worked out how to do the limit screws and fine-tuning using the barrel-adjuster, but couldn't work out the best way of retensioning the cable should you run out of adjustment or need to change a cable. Now I do!0 -
rhext wrote:Ta, that's helpful! I'd worked out how to do the limit screws and fine-tuning using the barrel-adjuster, but couldn't work out the best way of retensioning the cable should you run out of adjustment or need to change a cable. Now I do!
Cool, hope it works for you. Another thing worth knowing is that there's another screw on Shimano rear mechs which adjusts the angle of the jockey wheels, it'll all work better if both jockey wheels and your selected cog are in a vertical line. 0 -
Don't forget to pull the cable whilst it's not clamped, whilst changing down on the changer. If you don't, you can find yourself in a position where you can't get to all of your gears because the indexing runs out before the dérailleur has gone all the way across. Hold the cable with the pliers, click down through the gears until there are no clicks left. The nip it up as described above.rhext wrote:UndercoverElephant wrote:rhext wrote:Go on then, share!
Oh, OK, I just figured that everyone else knew. :oops:
Right, first step is to set the high limit screw. Go into the big cog at the back and pull the exposed bit of the cable along your down-tube cable even tighter, your dérailleur shouldn't move further than level with the big cog, and the jockey wheels should be in line with this. Turn the screw until this happens. Then say, "aw bugger!", and turn the other screw.
Next step is the low limit, go into the smallest cog at the back, and undo the gear cable. Again, your jockey wheels should be in line with the smallest cog. Adjust the other limit screw to make this happen. Then say, "Jeez, I only just got that wrong last time, you'd think I'd remember!".
Now for the indexing: Pull the loosened cable with some grippy pliers, so that it **just** starts to move the jockey wheels inwards. Tighten the screw to grip the cable and you should be done.
Ta, that's helpful! I'd worked out how to do the limit screws and fine-tuning using the barrel-adjuster, but couldn't work out the best way of retensioning the cable should you run out of adjustment or need to change a cable. Now I do!0 -
ChrisInBicester wrote:Don't forget to pull the cable whilst it's not clamped, whilst changing down on the changer. If you don't, you can find yourself in a position where you can't get to all of your gears because the indexing runs out before the dérailleur has gone all the way across. Hold the cable with the pliers, click down through the gears until there are no clicks left. The nip it up as described above.
I **think** that if you're already in the smallest cog, resting on the limit screw, then as soon as there's enough tension in the cable to move the mech a small bit, there should be the full range available.
:?0 -
You right, but nudging the shifter across when moving the bike with the cable undone, or fitting a new cable - it's easy to get the indexing out so pulling the cable and checking for no more indexing isn't a bad thing to do. 0
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ChrisInBicester wrote:You right, but nudging the shifter across when moving the bike with the cable undone, or fitting a new cable - it's easy to get the indexing out so pulling the cable and checking for no more indexing isn't a bad thing to do.
Gotcha, sorry, just had a, "Bugger, I didn't do that" moment, and was worried that it all seemed too easy.0 -
UndercoverElephant wrote:rhext wrote:Ta, that's helpful! I'd worked out how to do the limit screws and fine-tuning using the barrel-adjuster, but couldn't work out the best way of retensioning the cable should you run out of adjustment or need to change a cable. Now I do!
Cool, hope it works for you. Another thing worth knowing is that there's another screw on Shimano rear mechs which adjusts the angle of the jockey wheels, it'll all work better if both jockey wheels and your selected cog are in a vertical line.
I'll have a look at that later! Might explain why I'm having trouble tuning MTB rear mech!0 -
Done a spot of cosmetic fettling this evening. The previously still very OTP fixed now looks like this...
Until it gets caught in the headlights, and it does this...
Must admit I'm quite pleased with the effect. Just have to do the other side now.0 -
@ Brun: Very nice indeed. Who did you get to do the decals (or did you hand cut?)?David
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