Thread to tell everyone what bike gear you've just bought !

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  • daniel_b
    daniel_b Posts: 12,067
    edited February 2017
    spasypaddy wrote:
    spasypaddy wrote:
    new saddle bag - scion elan 210
    morgan blue chain keeper

    Have both! Great items, saddle bag does it really tight and doesn't flap about.
    yeah been debating what saddle bag to get for a few weeks now (My fizik one is dead). managed to find this for £5 on wiggle. was going to get a tool roll but this will be better i think

    been after a chain keeper for ages, saw it in the sale on wiggle

    By jove that's pretty
    Elan-Fluo-Yellow.jpg?w=2000&h=2000&a=7

    Can you get as much (tube, 2 levers, multitool) as in a medium fizik clip on bag?
    Felt F70 05 (Turbo)
    Marin Palisades Trail 91 and 06
    Scott CR1 SL 12
    Cannondale Synapse Adventure 15 & 16 Di2
    Scott Foil 18
  • daniel_b
    daniel_b Posts: 12,067
    CC%20Image.jpg?w=430&h=430&a=7
    Felt F70 05 (Turbo)
    Marin Palisades Trail 91 and 06
    Scott CR1 SL 12
    Cannondale Synapse Adventure 15 & 16 Di2
    Scott Foil 18
  • tincaman
    tincaman Posts: 508
    Daniel B wrote:
    spasypaddy wrote:
    spasypaddy wrote:
    new saddle bag - scion elan 210
    morgan blue chain keeper

    Have both! Great items, saddle bag does it really tight and doesn't flap about.
    yeah been debating what saddle bag to get for a few weeks now (My fizik one is dead). managed to find this for £5 on wiggle. was going to get a tool roll but this will be better i think

    been after a chain keeper for ages, saw it in the sale on wiggle

    By jove that's pretty
    Elan-Fluo-Yellow.jpg?w=2000&h=2000&a=7

    Can you get as much (tube, 2 levers, multitool) as in a medium fizik clip on bag?

    Just found this pic if it helps
    IMG_9093.jpg
  • drwae
    drwae Posts: 223
    What do you do to me, wiggle, making me max out my credit card every month? :evil:
    1) My first track pump, up until now I've been going to the bike shop and using theirs or my neighbour's
    2) 2x Schwalbe Pro One Evo tubeless tyres 25mm for my nice bike, Stans sealant, valve core remover
    3) Some dhb 'windslam' gloves because my castelli estremos are getting a bit hot and sweaty now spring is coming
    4) spare cleats, just in case my cleats fall off or something
    5) muc off dry lube because its stopped raining as much and wet lube gets my drivetrain all gunked up
    6) dhb merino base layer in case it gets cold again
    7) castelli perfetto 2 light jacket to go with my base layer for the days its getting above 10C now
    :)
  • itboffin
    itboffin Posts: 20,072
    Spring are you tripping? My ride today long sleeved base, long jersey and rapha winter jacket

    But interested in your tubeless experience, logic says it must be better otherwise why would cars use them facts I've seen so far say clinchers and tubes have regained the ground and benefits
    Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
  • DrLex
    DrLex Posts: 2,142
    Panaracer Comets in 650B flavour and a few 26" tubes from Winstanleys, plus a Podium to make up the postage paid order. Be nice to have water-flavoured water on a ride, rather than the tainted tang from cheapie bottles.
    Location: ciderspace
  • I've used tubeless on my Jamis and I can't quite make my mind up. They were a right PITA to fit and need far more topping up than a regular tube. I've also not noticed that they've prevented a puncture. I also have real concerns about having to fix a proper flat out on the road - it will be hard and messy (fixing the flat might not be easy either...)
    ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH
  • drwae
    drwae Posts: 223
    I've used tubeless on my Jamis and I can't quite make my mind up. They were a right PITA to fit and need far more topping up than a regular tube. I've also not noticed that they've prevented a puncture. I also have real concerns about having to fix a proper flat out on the road - it will be hard and messy (fixing the flat might not be easy either...)
    I thought that you can just put an inner tube in it and go like normal?
  • drwae wrote:
    I've used tubeless on my Jamis and I can't quite make my mind up. They were a right PITA to fit and need far more topping up than a regular tube. I've also not noticed that they've prevented a puncture. I also have real concerns about having to fix a proper flat out on the road - it will be hard and messy (fixing the flat might not be easy either...)
    I thought that you can just put an inner tube in it and go like normal?

    You can - but the tyres are much tighter on the rim and it's full of gunk that needs cleaning out
    ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,816
    For a trailside repair if needed it's really not that hard to pop the bead off the rim and fit a tube, as for the gunk, pour out what you can any left in does no harm.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • itboffin
    itboffin Posts: 20,072
    i think that's the main difference right there, mtb tyres are huge so its not much of a faff, at best road tyres are tight add in tubeless to the mix and you have a real nightmare.
    Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
  • drwae
    drwae Posts: 223
    My current tyres (non-tubeless) took over an hour to fit to my rims (tubeless) so i don't think it can get any worse
  • dhope
    dhope Posts: 6,699
    I've not bought it yet but there's a 2yr old Canyon Aeroad with 11sp Di2 and Mavic Cosmic Carbone SLE's for ~£2k that I keep looking at.

    Someone tell me it's a bad deal or I might just succumb
    Rose Xeon CW Disc
    CAAD12 Disc
    Condor Tempo
  • tincaman wrote:
    Daniel B wrote:
    spasypaddy wrote:
    spasypaddy wrote:
    new saddle bag - scion elan 210
    morgan blue chain keeper

    Have both! Great items, saddle bag does it really tight and doesn't flap about.
    yeah been debating what saddle bag to get for a few weeks now (My fizik one is dead). managed to find this for £5 on wiggle. was going to get a tool roll but this will be better i think

    been after a chain keeper for ages, saw it in the sale on wiggle

    By jove that's pretty

    Can you get as much (tube, 2 levers, multitool) as in a medium fizik clip on bag?

    Just found this pic if it helps
    IMG_9093.jpg

    I can confirm I get a tube, co2, lever, multi tool in no probs. It's snug and i wrap the co2 in an old inner tube to stop it rattling around.
  • DrLex
    DrLex Posts: 2,142
    drwae wrote:
    My current tyres (non-tubeless) took over an hour to fit to my rims (tubeless) so i don't think it can get any worse

    prod122324_IMGSET?wid=500&hei=505?
    Location: ciderspace
  • itboffin wrote:
    i think that's the main difference right there, mtb tyres are huge so its not much of a faff, at best road tyres are tight add in tubeless to the mix and you have a real nightmare.

    Spot-on - don't think a lever goes anywhere near my MTB (tubed) tyres - great big wobbly things. Fighting the tubeless S-Ones onto my tubeless rims was the most difficult tyre I've ever come across. I now carry two levers with the spare inner. And the prospect of fitting that tyre with cold, wet, hands with an additional inner tube to avoid pinching, isn't something that fills me with delight. The gunk I'm sure isn't a big deal but it will be just one of those things that will seem a lot worse.
    ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH
  • Fit of the head staggers last night, ordered an FSA Powerbox from Mantel. I kind of fancied a power meter, with the notion it would help make the most of minimal training time, and all in, this was the cheapest option available new that didn't require changing other kit as well. Should be delivered today.
  • hopkinb
    hopkinb Posts: 7,129
    DrLex wrote:
    drwae wrote:
    My current tyres (non-tubeless) took over an hour to fit to my rims (tubeless) so i don't think it can get any worse

    prod122324_IMGSET?wid=500&hei=505?

    I have the koolstop one, stick it in my back pocket. Gets tyres on my notoriously difficult prolite evo rims in seconds.
  • itboffin
    itboffin Posts: 20,072
    there's surely something wrong if you need to carry a device to fit/remove tyres?

    I'd have a Sir wiggo hissy fit throw the bike and walk off
    Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
  • DrLex wrote:
    drwae wrote:
    My current tyres (non-tubeless) took over an hour to fit to my rims (tubeless) so i don't think it can get any worse

    prod122324_IMGSET?wid=500&hei=505?

    I had the Amazon variant of that. It breaks in the end. Good while it works.
    My blog: http://www.roubaixcycling.cc (kit reviews and other musings)
    https://twitter.com/roubaixcc
    Facebook? No. Just say no.
  • dinyull
    dinyull Posts: 2,979
    I initially had problems with the Pro Lite's, but once you get the knack their a piece of cake.

    Tip is to move the bead of the tyre into the middle of the rim (away/detached from the lip of the rim) before you attempt to get the last section of tyre on.
  • Dinyull wrote:
    I initially had problems with the Pro Lite's, but once you get the knack their a piece of cake.

    Tip is to move the bead of the tyre into the middle of the rim (away/detached from the lip of the rim) before you attempt to get the last section of tyre on.

    Do you mean the opposite section that's already on? Move that to the centre?
    My blog: http://www.roubaixcycling.cc (kit reviews and other musings)
    https://twitter.com/roubaixcc
    Facebook? No. Just say no.
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    Dinyull wrote:
    I initially had problems with the Pro Lite's, but once you get the knack their a piece of cake.

    Tip is to move the bead of the tyre into the middle of the rim (away/detached from the lip of the rim) before you attempt to get the last section of tyre on.

    Do you mean the opposite section that's already on? Move that to the centre?

    That's what I do. Make sure the beads that are already on are in the centre of the rim and work round keeping the tension to minimise the effort required to get the last couple of inches on. I can mount GP 4Seasons and Pro 4 SC tyres on my Shimano clinchers using just thumbs
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    In other news I have three different kinds of rear light on my desk now. The cheap as chips Smart R1s are quite impressive, but the Moon Comet is really tiny and mentally bright :shock: I've burned a neat rectangle in my retinas.

    Don't think I'll be needing it on full power unless for some reason I'm compelled to venture out in dense fog.
  • imatfaal
    imatfaal Posts: 2,716
    keef66 wrote:
    Dinyull wrote:
    I initially had problems with the Pro Lite's, but once you get the knack their a piece of cake.

    Tip is to move the bead of the tyre into the middle of the rim (away/detached from the lip of the rim) before you attempt to get the last section of tyre on.

    Do you mean the opposite section that's already on? Move that to the centre?

    That's what I do. Make sure the beads that are already on are in the centre of the rim and work round keeping the tension to minimise the effort required to get the last couple of inches on. I can mount GP 4Seasons and Pro 4 SC tyres on my Shimano clinchers using just thumbs

    yep - this. Even silly tyres like Marathon Pluses go on fairly easily and with thumbs only. Knee at the valve to keep both beads set in the centre and work in opposite directions with each hand away from the valve pushing the beads into the centre and pulling the tyre around a tiny bit (to keep the tension). New tyre will be an effort - but roadside tube replacement becomes easy
  • dinyull
    dinyull Posts: 2,979
    ^I don't worry about the opposite side as much, only the side going on. But will give that a go too.

    Same when having to remove tyre to replace tube. I had a right faff on a few weeks ago getting tyre leavers in, then somehow "discovered" the knack and the 4+ punctures I've had since have been no issue.

    Will see if it works with a new tyre tonight...
  • drwae
    drwae Posts: 223
    edited February 2017
    I will be fitting my tubeless tyres tonight, hope it's not as difficult as everyone makes out!!

    I'm really happy with the Lifeline professional track pump it feels very sturdy, solid and like a much better pump than any other i've used before at my LBS or borrowed from people

    I have to return the perfetto 2 light jersey as it's TINY it feels like it's about 3 sizes too small!! :o:o
    I have the Alpha Jacket and find the sizing true but this perfetto sizing is ridiculous, I'm 5'11 10st and it succeeds in making me look fat.
    Also didn't get any haribo today :x
  • apreading
    apreading Posts: 4,535
    Unless you have a wide rim, I actually find it better if the opposite bead is NOT in the centre 'well' because that means more room for the side you are mounting to get down in the well as far as possible. Its not always easy to slide the opposite side out of the well though, so this isnt always easy to achieve. But deffo the side you are mounting should be in the well all the way around as much as possible.

    I find using Stans notubes yellow tape really helps too. Even if not running tubeless, Stans tape is both thinner than other rim tape and allows the bead to slide more easily than velox cloth tape or a strip that slides around with the tyre. Those rim strips that dont stick down really make things difficult. I now use Stans anywhere I can - changed a wheel that took hours, frequent snapped tyre levers and mangled fingers into something that is really pretty easy.
  • drwae wrote:
    I will be fitting my tubeless tyres tonight, hope it's not as difficult as everyone makes out!!

    Lots of soapy water to make them seat :wink:
    ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH
  • itboffin
    itboffin Posts: 20,072
    drwae wrote:
    I will be fitting my tubeless tyres tonight, hope it's not as difficult as everyone makes out!!

    Lots of soapy water to make them seat :wink:

    have a beer on hand
    Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.