Fixed/Single Speed Commuting

gtvlusso

Just sold:



for £450.....bonkers!

wgwarburton

Result!

gtvlusso

Now to spend a fortune on another - to the internet!!!!

itboffin

gtvlusso wrote:

Now to spend a fortune on another - to the internet!!!!

Are you building your own wheels for these projects?

gtvlusso

itboffin wrote:

gtvlusso wrote:

Now to spend a fortune on another - to the internet!!!!

Are you building your own wheels for these projects?

Depends on how much coffee I have had in the morning - I have done, previously and will build a new set for my new bike (as I want some Campag hubs - tart). However, the ones on this bike were bought for £135.

Building your own wheels costs more than buying a set of Halo Aerorage........if you build a decent set!

Bitch is truing - I am better at it now, but usually find I need a re-true after about a weeks riding.

itboffin

I found this website today http://www.velosolo.co.uk/faq.html very interesting idea to use a front disc wheel as a fixed rear, mmmm I have such as spare wheel.

Anyway good reading.

Greg T

linsen wrote:

ITB has very kindly done "phase one" (removed gears and put the chain on for me),and then tells me I have a death trap on my hands as I need a new back wheel.

Do I just go to the LBS and ask for one? Is there a good place online to get such things?

It's a 700 wheel.

Chars and all that

The spacing between the drop outs on the back will be different from the 120mm standard for dedicated single speed bikes.

You need to make sure that you get a wheel with the right hub size to fit your rear drop outs.

I'd just take your whole bike into the LBS and tell them to order you a dedicated SS / fixed back wheel with the right hub.

They can also fix everything the ITB has broken.

itboffin

Greg T wrote:

linsen wrote:

ITB has very kindly done "phase one" (removed gears and put the chain on for me),and then tells me I have a death trap on my hands as I need a new back wheel.

Do I just go to the LBS and ask for one? Is there a good place online to get such things?

It's a 700 wheel.

Chars and all that

The spacing between the drop outs on the back will be different from the 120mm standard for dedicated single speed bikes.

You need to make sure that you get a wheel with the right hub size to fit your rear drop outs.

I'd just take your whole bike into the LBS and tell them to order you a dedicated SS / fixed back wheel with the right hub.

They can also fix everything the ITB has broken.

If I knew who you were stranger I'd tell you to bite my shiny ring :evil:

look here people
http://www.velosolo.co.uk/faq.html

I have the urge to build another bike, at the very least a monster FG/SS wheel.

My 'dedicated' FG/SS wheel is coming to the end of it's life and I was planning on buying the halo wheelset but now i'm thinking Mavic discs.

itboffin

I'm foaming at the mouth with excitement, after reading velosolo FAQ and then the section on dual cogs I think this could be the answer to the question I posted a short while ago.

To recap I'm looking for a solution where I can have two SS cogs at the back low/high set up something like 65GI & 80GI that would be basically allow me to slog up the hills and power down again, I started with 75GI and it nearly killed my knees and back, i'm currently running 44/18T which is fine up but disappointing down.

Question then;

If I run a double up the front 44/47 (64GI) and dual cog at the back 18/15 (82GI)

Will this avoid chain length issues?

gtvlusso

itboffin wrote:

I'm foaming at the mouth with excitement, after reading velosolo FAQ and then the section on dual cogs I think this could be the answer to the question I posted a short while ago.

To recap I'm looking for a solution where I can have two SS cogs at the back low/high set up something like 65GI & 80GI that would be basically allow me to slog up the hills and power down again, I started with 75GI and it nearly killed my knees and back, i'm currently running 44/18T which is fine up but disappointing down.

Question then;

If I run a double up the front 44/47 (64GI) and dual cog at the back 18/15 (82GI)

Will this avoid chain length issues?

I just bought a load of stuff for my build from Velosolo. Personally, I run 48/16 or 15 - however, I do carry a "track bag" with differing chainrings and sprockets should I run into trouble or a very big hill! Can get up most things - as long as the crank is still moving, you'll get up it!! Basically, I stay at about 82 to 85Gi...mostly.

I go as low as a 46T ring and avoid changing sprockets - but I have a flip/flop hub with the 15t and 16t mounted on either side. I do like the idea of MTB hubs as they are damn strong - just stuck with 1 sprocket though unless you buy those double things - but then you wreck the chainline!!!!!

I think Surly do a dual cog too - try www.charliethebikemonger.co.uk

If your bike has 120mm spacing - rule of thumb is a 42mm chainline (centre of seatpost to chainring). If you have a 130mm spacing - your bike is likely to be a dual ring racing bike - your chainline will be bigger and able to take the dual cog, say 43-44mm. 42mm with a dual cog, may get a bit sketchy and wreck the cog and chain as they will be running slightly out - may just be a bit noisy! Any wider and you are looking at a triple chainline and things start to get a bit messy......

Old TT bikes are the way forward for fixies - Nearly always single cog to 5 block - 120mm spacing - perfect and built for the road!!!! Buy some Paul track fork ends, a brazing torch, make a jig to line up the wheel and off you go!!!

wgwarburton

itboffin wrote:

To recap I'm looking for a solution where I can have two SS cogs at the back low/high set up something like 65GI & 80GI that would be basically allow me to slog up the hills and power down again, I started with 75GI and it nearly killed my knees and back, i'm currently running 44/18T which is fine up but disappointing down.

I hesitate to suggest it, but a three-speed hub gear would be worth serious consideration. The weight penalty won't be that big and it'd be much more convenient.

If I run a double up the front 44/47 (64GI) and dual cog at the back 18/15 (82GI)
Will this avoid chain length issues?

Yes.

Cheers,
W.

itboffin

WGWarburton wrote:

itboffin wrote:

To recap I'm looking for a solution where I can have two SS cogs at the back low/high set up something like 65GI & 80GI that would be basically allow me to slog up the hills and power down again, I started with 75GI and it nearly killed my knees and back, i'm currently running 44/18T which is fine up but disappointing down.

I hesitate to suggest it, but a three-speed hub gear would be worth serious consideration. The weight penalty won't be that big and it'd be much more convenient.

If I run a double up the front 44/47 (64GI) and dual cog at the back 18/15 (82GI)
Will this avoid chain length issues?

Yes.

Cheers,
W.

I've considered it a couple of times but the weight and the look puts me off, i'm going to give this a go, nothing to lose everything to gain

richardvaltos

Are we being serious here? Is this not the point at which the friggin' derailleur was invented? i.e. a need for a higher or lower gear, and you don't need to get your hands dirty. How about carrying a couple of extra rings on the front, and obviously several different chains to cover the requisite lengths needed. Jeez. :shock:

itboffin

richardvaltos wrote:

Are we being serious here? Is this not the point at which the friggin' derailleur was invented? i.e. a need for a higher or lower gear, and you don't need to get your hands dirty. How about carrying a couple of extra rings on the front, and obviously several different chains to cover the requisite lengths needed. Jeez. :shock:

richardvaltos

Glad you took that in the manner I was intending I'm seriously considering a hub gear for my next build. Freemans cycles do a fully built wheel with hub, cable, trigger for £75 hmmm.

highwaymunky

Hi,

I need advice from the SS community. My free wheel on my Langster has collapsed. Really it has been making horrible grinding banging noises and now grinds to a halt very quickly. It has expired.

I've ordered a replacement as it is in warranty but its only a cheap Shimano Free wheel, 16t

Could the wise and the wizend ones advise a young pup on the best choice for SS free wheel?

Thanks.

itboffin

highwaymunky wrote:

Hi,

I need advice from the SS community. My free wheel on my Langster has collapsed. Really it has been making horrible grinding banging noises and now grinds to a halt very quickly. It has expired.

I've ordered a replacement as it is in warranty but its only a cheap Shimano Free wheel, 16t

Could the wise and the wizend ones advise a young pup on the best choice for SS free wheel?

Thanks.

The Shimano ones are fine but if like me you ride in all weather & conditions it's not going to last very long, there are super duper expensive white ind freewheels which are lovely but really I think that defeats the object of SS, which should be cheap cycling.

you could also buy a couple of dicta £6 jobs and replace them regularly.

majormantra

highwaymunky wrote:

Hi,

I need advice from the SS community. My free wheel on my Langster has collapsed. Really it has been making horrible grinding banging noises and now grinds to a halt very quickly. It has expired.

I've ordered a replacement as it is in warranty but its only a cheap Shimano Free wheel, 16t

Could the wise and the wizend ones advise a young pup on the best choice for SS free wheel?

Thanks.

Go fixed, a cog will last for aeons.

Matthew

don_don

itboffin wrote:

If I run a double up the front 44/47 (64GI) and dual cog at the back 18/15 (82GI)

Will this avoid chain length issues?

Would I be right in thinking you are using a normal road hub single-speeded? Presumably then you could just get a second sprocket and use spacers to get the chain-line just right?

Incidentally, I've been using a 19/17T Surly Dingle on my fixed for a few weeks now. Absolutely no problems with chain-line in either gear, as long as you use a 3/32" chain, which I do anyway

itboffin

don_don wrote:

itboffin wrote:

If I run a double up the front 44/47 (64GI) and dual cog at the back 18/15 (82GI)

Will this avoid chain length issues?

Would I be right in thinking you are using a normal road hub single-speeded? Presumably then you could just get a second sprocket and use spacers to get the chain-line just right?

Incidentally, I've been using a 19/17T Surly Dingle on my fixed for a few weeks now. Absolutely no problems with chain-line in either gear, as long as you use a 3/32" chain, which I do anyway

At the moment i'm using a Miche track hub but even after replacing the axle bearings and cups it's still at the end of its working life, pitted to hell, so i'm exploring my options and I'd really really like a flip/flop FGSS with disc brake options, the surly dingle seemed rather expensive from recollection.

don_don

itboffin wrote:

At the moment i'm using a Miche track hub but even after replacing the axle bearings and cups it's still at the end of its working life, pitted to hell, so i'm exploring my options and I'd really really like a flip/flop FGSS with disc brake options, the surly dingle seemed rather expensive from recollection.

Yup, £30 so not exactly cheap..

Maybe I'm being a bit dull - are you talking about using a double chain-set, with a sprocket each side on a flip-flop hub? That would rule out disc brake use would it not?

If you are staying single-speed (ie. not fixed), then presumably an MTB disc hub with a single-speed kit (but with 2 sprockets on it) would work? Assuming it'll fit in the frame that is.

From the point of view of simplicity, the Surly Dingle works really well. You could of course put one on a flip-flop hub, with a freewheel on the other side, but maybe that would be overkill!!

itboffin

don_don wrote:

itboffin wrote:

At the moment i'm using a Miche track hub but even after replacing the axle bearings and cups it's still at the end of its working life, pitted to hell, so i'm exploring my options and I'd really really like a flip/flop FGSS with disc brake options, the surly dingle seemed rather expensive from recollection.

Yup, £30 so not exactly cheap..

Maybe I'm being a bit dull - are you talking about using a double chain-set, with a sprocket each side on a flip-flop hub? That would rule out disc brake use would it not?

If you are staying single-speed (ie. not fixed), then presumably an MTB disc hub with a single-speed kit (but with 2 sprockets on it) would work? Assuming it'll fit in the frame that is.

From the point of view of simplicity, the Surly Dingle works really well. You could of course put one on a flip-flop hub, with a freewheel on the other side, but maybe that would be overkill!!

Yep double chainset with two single speed sprockets on one side and a single fixed on the other with a disc brake, fixed is just not an option for me right now it's too damn hilly for my old knees.

don_don

I'm a bit confused (well, more so than normal) ITB, what sort of hub are you thinking of using? It sounds like you are talking of having a fixed sprocket and a disc brake on the same side of the hub??

Of course, I realise that all the other readers have now gone elsewhere whilst we talk densely about widgets....

:oops:

itboffin

don_don wrote:

I'm a bit confused (well, more so than normal) ITB, what sort of hub are you thinking of using? It sounds like you are talking of having a fixed sprocket and a disc brake on the same side of the hub??

Of course, I realise that all the other readers have now gone elsewhere whilst we talk densely about widgets....

:oops:

Yep that's the deal, so like a combination of these two pics





I've spoken with Velosolo and it's already been done, disc braking for single speed and front only brake for fixed.

I'll have to watch out for oil on the disc but other than that it looks sweet.

itboffin

Like this but with 2 sprockets on the freewheel side and a disc on the other

oooow pretty

ride_whenever

You'll have trouble getting the chain off to turn the wheel round unless you have a split link. You just want a hub with a freewheel thread on one side and a disc mount on the other. Lots of dirtjumpers use them.

You've got disc and fixed sprocket on the 6-bolt side, and the freewheel on the other.

The other issues i can see are the chainline ones, and the rotor potentially rubbing on the stays when running fixed.

don_don

Owww, my head hurts

Unless the picture's been flipped, it looks like the top pic has the drivetrain on the left-hand side :shock: How do you mount the disc over the freewheel??

And the bottom pic looks like an MTB hub with a fixed sprocket bolted to the disc mounts..

I now have images of a disc-braked double/single fixed flip-flop MTB hub with two chainsets at the front and an interchangeable chain :shock: :shock: :shock:

Think I need to have a look at this Velosolo site. richardvaltos will be cross-eyed

_Brun_

Ooh, just spotted these in the Planet X sale and reckon they look a bit fancy. No mention of what the price was, but it's now £125. Anyone know if that's decent value?

Details of the hub are somewhat lacking, does anyone know if they'll take the freewheel off my Genesis Flyer which desperately needs to be a bit less OTP (which I understand is inversely proportional to coolness).

_Brun_

If anyone wonders why I'm stuck here posting on such a beautiful afternoon it's because I'm at work. No point earning overtime if you can't spend it is there?

Feltup

For the first time I found out that my fixed riding has helped my regular riding. There is a hill I often do at the weekend with a descent on which I have maxed out at 49mph in the freewheeling in the tuck after an initial sprint. Yesterday I rolled in more sedately and began to spin. There was a slight head wind so I kept spinning and wound up the cadence. In the past I got to about 40-42mph and I would start bouncing and the bike would get out of shape. This time I kept on spinning all the way and after running it out I found I had managed to spin up to 47mph. It felt so much more secure at those speeds this time.

I just wonder what my cadence was at this speed whilst pushing a 50*11?