Fixed/Single Speed Commuting

lost_in_thought

For all iPhone users....

http://www.jpmartineau.com/iphone/bicyc ... alculator/


mmmmmm gadget!

biondino

Okay you're still alive, I can stop worrying

biondino

Buns, if you have a sec can you have a look at the pics I have of my old Holdsworth - the 10-speed 80s road bike I rode for a decade when I wasn't as into cycling as I am now - and let me know what you think?

http://www.flickr.com/photos/21373331@N ... 923361354/ (the first dozen or so photos)

Thanks!
Mark

lost_in_thought

biondino wrote:

Okay you're still alive, I can stop worrying

Oh I'm fine thanks! Your directions were very good! And I managed to follow my series of maps back to ealing without incident!

In other news I really like riding round london in the dead of night, I left Clapham at 2:30am and got back to Ealing a while later, and it was really clear and empty... great fun!

biondino

I drove home via the South Circular about 10pm last night in the rain and wind (my god, the wind!) from peckham, about 10 miles. It was kind of fun in a scary way...

Jen J

Can I join the Bowery club please?

Just read through all the posts, and some of them have got me wanting to rush to the LBS now.

New to the biking thing - started about 6 weeks ago on a road bike for tri training, but quickly fell in love with it and bought the Bowery on Saturday - first trip out tomorrow.

I see they're quite popular on here...

I have seen mention of SCR and FCN, but without me reading that whole thread, could someone explain in one post the jist of it please? Or do I need to read it all to get the idea?

And as a bike newbie (not even clipless yet), how long before I'll be ready to flip to the fixed wheel? Am I looking at a couple of weeks or a year? Is that a silly question for this thread, given previous posts?

redvee

SCR is a Giant model range
FCN is Food Chain Number based on what you ride, what you wear when riding and who you overtake/overtakes you

http://www.citrusskies.co.uk/fcn/

attica

SCR is also Silly Commuting Racing

The behemoth of a thread on this forum, it's where commuting becomes a game that plays you.

It's also become our watercooler - talk of everything from fine wine to thigh measuring.
This thread is a direct result of us lot talking SS/fixie for too much of the time on that thread.

God, we'll need an appointed historian soon!

Littigator

Attica wrote:

God, we'll need an appointed historian soon!

well volunteered that man

LiTs re. your riding in the dead of night do you remember that person that posted when we were doing the first drinks and she was riding down to the coast through the night with a bunch of like-minded mentalists. You may wanna join in?!

Just in case anyone missed the front page BTW...here's some teasers to get you hot under the collar

http://www.bikeradar.com/news/article/interbike-fixies-from-vegas-18814

And finally, welcome Jen J and well done on your most bodacious choice of bike...righteous!!!

I switched to fixed after about 2-3 weeks but just go for it whenever you feel like it really. Fine a nice big empty car park or park for your first foray and after that you'll be all good

el_presidente

Jen J wrote:

And as a bike newbie (not even clipless yet), how long before I'll be ready to flip to the fixed wheel? Am I looking at a couple of weeks or a year? Is that a silly question for this thread, given previous posts?

Hello & welcome,

I would play it by ear ,but be cautious. Ridign in traffic well takes some time to get used to, though threads on here will help you. Ridign in traffic well on a fixed gear is another level up imho as you have a few more things to think about (can't bunnyhop potholes, pedals in the right place to start, etc). By all means practice riding fixed straightaway but my personal opinion is that you should be very confident in traffic before you go fixed for commuting.

To add to that I think clipless pedals help a lot riding fixed, but you reallly need to get used to those riding a freewheel first.

Don't think I am trying to put you off, as you can see from this thread & forum there are plenty of happy fixed riders, myself included, so it is not rocket science. just go steady and build confidence and you will be fine. I see you are training fro triathlons, I think commuting on a fixed has really helped my fitness this year.

Clever Pun

I was pondering this the other day does crank arm length affect your GI? (I noticed it on l-i-ts iphone link)

itboffin

Clever Pun wrote:

I was pondering this the other day does crank arm length affect your GI? (I noticed it on l-i-ts iphone link)

I've been thinking the same thing myself, I see that a lot of track bikes have 165 crankarms and a fair number of road bike 175, so is that a power thing or just pure preference, it's one part of my bike set-up I have no clue.

I've every combination on my various bikes and none of them seem to feel any different to me, I guess a real test would be to try the different lengths on the same bike over a measured distance/time - but who has that kind of time on their hands? ...Oh! wait!

attica

el_presidente wrote:

[I think commuting on a fixed has really helped my fitness this year.

+1 for that from me, it's improved my cadence and my hill climbing

wgwarburton

Biondino wrote:

> Buns, if you have a sec can you have a look at the pics I have of my old Holdsworth - the 10-speed 80s road bike I rode for a decade when I wasn't as into cycling as I am now - and let me know what you think?

OK, will need to be tonight as I can't access flickr from work. What I am looking for? Suitability for conversion?

..& Clever Pun:
> I was pondering this the other day does crank arm length affect your GI?

It doesn't affect the number you calculate but it does affect the actual relationship between legs & road.. This is a problem with comparing gearing using GI and why Sheldon Brown proposed his "Gain ratio" alternative. The same cogs & wheels give a lower gear with 175mm cranks than they do with 165mm ones, because the leverage exerted on the drivetrain is higher.

Cheers,
W.

Clever Pun

Attica wrote:

el_presidente wrote:

[I think commuting on a fixed has really helped my fitness this year.

+1 for that from me, it's improved my cadence and my hill climbing

QFT

My legs feel a big stronger and my cadence is being forced to improve even in a short space of time

ITB check out the crank length thing does speed favour the short or tall?

attica

Clever Pun wrote:

I was pondering this the other day does crank arm length affect your GI? (I noticed it on l-i-ts iphone link)

It won't affect your GI as such, 1 revolution will still get you the same distance, but you'll have more power for a longer crank arm.
Never experimented so I couldn't tell you how much this will change the feel of the bike.

Over to you ITB

attica

QFT

Wha da?

chaley

I'm hopefully getting my Langster this month (HR willing), I'm going from a hybrid mtb, Am I doing the right thing by going straight to fixed? I've ridden the hybrid in 1 gear for a couple of months to get it a try SS. I don't think that I have ever used my back brake ( so long that I think it's seized now :shock: ) so do I drop it and have the front back on the left like I did on my bmx (way back in the mists of time )? As I'll ride on the hoods abit I'll be keeping the right hand lever, are they spring loaded so it stays up/out of the way on it's own?

I thank you,
Chaley

Greg T

I have enough trouble stopping my cranks grounding out on kerbs / innocent bystanders etc the last thing I need is more "length" - ahem...

itboffin

I found this some time ago;

The general rule of thumb is:

* below 5'10 use 170mm cranks on for general (road) racing and
training,

* 5'10 to 6'1 use 172.5mm cranks,

* 6'1 plus use 175mm cranks,

And modify for specialized events:

* subtract 2.5mm for track racing (or more on short steep tracks
or short events),

* subtract 2.5 to 5mm if you have frequent knee problems,

* add 2.5mm for time trials and hilly races, (and MTB races),

* add 5mm for pure hillclimbs.

In the interests of science and because i've bugger all else to do I will try it out and report back.

Edit - more info http://www.cptips.com/crnklth.htm

wgwarburton

Crankarms:

Traditional standard is 170mm for normal "road" use. If you have longer or shorter legs than "standard", then in theory you might benefit from tuning this.

Longer ones are supposed to be better for ATBs, more leverage for tricky terrain.

Shorter cranks are often considered desireable for fixed gear riders because they reduce the risk of pedal-strikes when cornering. Similarly for low-profile pedals- beware those using existing cranks & BigFlatPedals when converting old ATBs to street fixies...

It's easier to spin short cranks, you get more leverage if you mash long ones, so style comes into play, too.

Cheers,
W.

Greg T

Buns - NIce Buns!

I was thinking exactly that - that long cranks would make high spinning even funnier than it already is....

I need to get me some short cranks.

lost_in_thought

Hmmmmm... I'm going to go and measure my cranks. Buns, you're a man of knowledge, is the measurement from the centre of the BB bolt to the centre of the pedal bolt?

And Chaley, I went straight to fixed, give it a go!

And what does QFT mean?

Greg T

chaley wrote:

I'm going from a hybrid mtb, I'm a doing the right thing by going straight to fixed?

If you are a confident road rider then this is just something to get used to....

As others say the best placxe to learn is an empty car park....

Beware:

Kerb strike - your cranks keep going round.

Slow speed manoovering (can never spell it right) you'll be clipped in and your cranks won't stop turning..

The sudden elevator of shame - when you forget that you cranks won't stope turning and you get suddently lifted up.

Take it very easy and ease your way in, be gentle.

biondino

LiT - look on the inside of the crank arm and it will probably be stamped on it how long they are. Shouldn't need to measure.

chaley

Greg T wrote:

chaley wrote:

I'm going from a hybrid mtb, I'm a doing the right thing by going straight to fixed?

If you are a confident road rider then this is just something to get used to....

As others say the best placxe to learn is an empty car park....

Beware:

Kerb strike - your cranks keep going round.

Slow speed manoovering (can never spell it right) you'll be clipped in and your cranks won't stop turning..

The sudden elevator of shame - when you forget that you cranks won't stope turning and you get suddently lifted up.

Take it very easy and ease your way in, be gentle.

Oh that's me shagged then
Chaley

Littigator

I think I've caught Buns-itis. Now I've near b*ggered my left knee with high geared fixie riding I am now thinking of a switch down to a higher cadence lower GI ride.

Yes, there it is, I've said it, I want an easier more spinny setup

lost_in_thought

chaley wrote:

Greg T wrote:

Take it very easy and ease your way in, be gentle.

Oh that's me shagged then
Chaley

Chaley, just try it. I had 2 trips on the elevator of doom, neither of which were huge issues, and I've been fine since then. Just spend the first 2 weeks muttering 'keep pedalling keep pedalling' to yourself.

It's easy!

biondino

QFT = quoted for truth

Buns - thanks. Yes, partly as a potential single speed convert, but also in case you have any other interesting info about it.

lost_in_thought

Littigator wrote:

I think I've caught Buns-itis. Now I've near b*ggered my left knee with high geared fixie riding I am now thinking of a switch down to a higher cadence lower GI ride.

Yes, there it is, I've said it, I want an easier more spinny setup

Lol! No shame, no shame in that!

I feel partially responsible for the broken femurs with my unwitting puchase of a bike with a massive gear, thereby causing some kind of arms race... :oops:

I'm keeping mine.

What's the cheapest cycle computer with cadence on it? I'm curious. Could do the maths, but can't be @rsed.