Are freehubs supposed to be a total pita to get off??
Comments
-
Imposter wrote:wow - first meltdown of the day and it's only 10am...
If you claim to be acting like an adult, your posts suggest otherwise. Your posts are littered with abuse, but 'scum' is a bit ott...
I'm not going to be sorry for giving people the response they deserve.0 -
I have to say that Bikes'n guns' post would persuade me to give up on the thing. Even if you do manage to take it apart it sounds like you'd have to spend a fair bit on replacing not just the freehub but the other bits you've mangled, assuming that the necessary spares are even available. And if it's failed prematurely once, you'd have no confidence in the repaired hub lasting any longer.
If you can't get the retailer to agree to a warranty replacement, and I think that's unlikely considering what you admit you've done to it, just buy a basic Shimano rear wheel and get back on your bike.0 -
keef66 wrote:I have to say that Bikes'n guns' post would persuade me to give up on the thing. Even if you do manage to take it apart it sounds like you'd have to spend a fair bit on replacing not just the freehub but the other bits you've mangled, assuming that the necessary spares are even available. And if it's failed prematurely once, you'd have no confidence in the repaired hub lasting any longer.
If you can't get the retailer to agree to a warranty replacement, and I think that's unlikely considering what you admit you've done to it, just buy a basic Shimano rear wheel and get back on your bike.
I didn't buy it from a retailer, I bought it direct, and they went bust. Besides it's a couple of years old.
I'm still convinced it is that all it needs is a clean and re-grease. If I could get it off I could have a look. B&G's might not be the same as mine because he has the disc version, and mine is rim, and apparently there seems to be more than one designed of freehub for my wheelset. One of those versions seems a total pita to get off, and that's not the one I have.
I'm sure if I had known how to do it properly in the first place then it would have come off easily and there wouldn't have been a problem.
I'm now looking at taking it to another town, probably on the train, to be fixed.0 -
I don't want to jinx myself, but I have a pair of Vision T42s and although I haven't had them in bits yet they seem very well made and with quality hubs.
Have Bikes and Bungle fallen on a bad batch or do Vision use wildly variable hub designs, depending on the price point?
If you were closer, Bungle, I'd have a butcher's for you.Ben
Bikes: Donhou DSS4 Custom | Condor Italia RC | Gios Megalite | Dolan Preffisio | Giant Bowery '76
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/ben_h_ppcc/
Flickr: https://www.flickr.com/photos/143173475@N05/0 -
Ben6899 wrote:I don't want to jinx myself, but I have a pair of Vision T42s and although I haven't had them in bits yet they seem very well made and with quality hubs.
Have Bikes and Bungle fallen on a bad batch or do Vision use wildly variable hub designs, depending on the price point?
Well I know that they have at least two versions that look exactly the same, but are in fact different ( :roll: ), each where the drive side nut undoes in opposite directions. And then there is the older version of my wheels where you have to faff around taking the entire axle out, and then you need an obscure large allen key to remove the freehub. I guess it was too easy to stick to one design and keep things simple.If you were closer, Bungle, I'd have a butcher's for you.0 -
I'd also love to have a look at it; I'm intrigued. Sadly not in your neck of the woods. I'm going to wade through the post again, ignore the abuse, and try to work out exactly which wheel you have and how far you've got.0
-
Bungle73 wrote:Thanks anyway. i don't suppose you have any suggestions of how I can keep the axle stationary so I can undo the nut? I tried a latex glove with an allen key and it was useless
Mole grips with the axle protected by the latex glove?Ben
Bikes: Donhou DSS4 Custom | Condor Italia RC | Gios Megalite | Dolan Preffisio | Giant Bowery '76
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/ben_h_ppcc/
Flickr: https://www.flickr.com/photos/143173475@N05/0 -
keef66 wrote:I'd also love to have a look at it; I'm intrigued. Sadly not in your neck of the woods. I'm going to wade through the post again, ignore the abuse, and try to work out exactly which wheel you have and how far you've got.
They're Vision Team 30. How far I've got is I've that I've stripped the end of the axle where you supposed to inset am allen key to stop it from turning so you undo the nut and then remove the freehub, because I got misled into trying to undo it the wrong way0 -
Ben6899 wrote:Bungle73 wrote:Thanks anyway. i don't suppose you have any suggestions of how I can keep the axle stationary so I can undo the nut? I tried a latex glove with an allen key and it was useless
Mole grips with the axle protected by the latex glove?
I haven't got any, but I guess I could buy some. Would it hold it tight enough? I already tried with pliers but couldn't hold it tight enough.0 -
Molegrips should work but you'd need to be careful not to crush the axle. Alternatively can you jam a screwdriver in the mangled hex to hold it still? The 17mm locknut securing the freehub appears to be reverse threaded so it unscrews clockwise.0
-
keef66 wrote:Molegrips should work but you'd need to be careful not to crush the axle. Alternatively can you jam a screwdriver in the mangled hex to hold it still? The 17mm locknut securing the freehub appears to be reverse threaded so it unscrews clockwise.
I already tried a screw driver and only succeeded in mangling the inside of the axle further.
And crush the axle? Are they really that strong? Seems unlikely?
Apparently, according to someone on another forum, latex gloves won't be enough to protect the axle0 -
Get back into your spaceship, take off, and then nuke the wheels from orbit. It's the only way...0
-
A torx key forced into the rounded allen key hole might grip enough to enable you to loosen it. Or epoxy an allen key into the hole, leave it to set solid, then it should work. You might then need to drill it out afterwards but if you heat it up hot enough the glue should give.FFS! Harden up and grow a pair0
-
Svetty wrote:A torx key forced into the rounded allen key hole might grip enough to enable you to loosen it. Or epoxy an allen key into the hole, leave it to set solid, then it should work. You might then need to drill it out afterwards but if you heat it up hot enough the glue should give.
Wouldn't that bugger up the axle completely? I've got nothing to heat it up with.
I haven't got any torx keys. The only ones I have are on my multi tool and they are too small.
I'm thinking I might try the mole grips. I now need to get some.0 -
Still not sure what you have. I've found 2 different types of Team 30 hubs.
So is your freehub held on by a 17mm locknut (with some writing on it saying which way to loosen?)
Or is it the one where you have 2 end caps to remove with 5mm hex keys before whacking the axle out with a hammer so you can access the 12mm tubular hex bolt from the NDS?0 -
keef66 wrote:Still not sure what you have. I've found 2 different types of Team 30 hubs.
So is your freehub held on by a 17mm locknut (with some writing on it saying which way to loosen?)
Or is it the one where you have 2 end caps to remove with 5mm hex keys before whacking the axle out with a hammer so you can access the 12mm tubular hex bolt from the NDS?
It's neither. There is no text on the nut. You undo it by holding with the axle allen key0 -
Bungle73 wrote:keef66 wrote:Still not sure what you have. I've found 2 different types of Team 30 hubs.
So is your freehub held on by a 17mm locknut (with some writing on it saying which way to loosen?)
Or is it the one where you have 2 end caps to remove with 5mm hex keys before whacking the axle out with a hammer so you can access the 12mm tubular hex bolt from the NDS?
It's neither. There is no text on the nut. You undo it by holding with the axle allen key
Well in the video I watched on Vision's youtube channel he held the axle with the hex key, broke the locknut free by turning it clockwise a fraction with the spanner, then undid it by turning the allen key anticlockwise (which had the same effect as turning the nut clockwise, but it's quicker).0 -
keef66 wrote:Bungle73 wrote:keef66 wrote:Still not sure what you have. I've found 2 different types of Team 30 hubs.
So is your freehub held on by a 17mm locknut (with some writing on it saying which way to loosen?)
Or is it the one where you have 2 end caps to remove with 5mm hex keys before whacking the axle out with a hammer so you can access the 12mm tubular hex bolt from the NDS?
It's neither. There is no text on the nut. You undo it by holding with the axle allen key
Well in the video I watched on Vision's youtube channel he held the axle with the hex key, broke the locknut free by turning it clockwise a fraction with the spanner, then undid it by turning the allen key anticlockwise (which had the same effect as turning the nut clockwise, but it's quicker).
The guy from FSA told me to turn it the other way......0 -
Perhaps he'd watched the video and meant turn the allen key? The guy barely turns the spanner at all.0
-
Hi Graham,
With the axle static the nut has a RH clockwise thread so will need to be turned anticlockwise to remove.
Kind Regards
Russell Harding0 -
I've already tried undoing it clockwise and it won't undo, and that is how I ended up messing it up in the first place.0
-
If it's any consolation, during my Googling I've stumbled upon a hatful of Youtube vids of Vision rear hubs / freehubs making a racket.0
-
I bought myself some mole grips and still won't undo!0
-
Bugger. I'm out of ideas. I think a decent bike shop is your best bet.0
-
What about the special spray you can get, for loosening stuck bolts that lubes and freezes them,and makes them easier to undo. Do you think that would be worth giving a go?0
-
If you spent half the time solviong the problem as you do being a victim youd have had it sorted days ago.
HTFU and get on with it0 -
Bungle73 wrote:What about the special spray you can get, for loosening stuck bolts that lubes and freezes them,and makes them easier to undo. Do you think that would be worth giving a go?0
-
If you can't hold the axle still and you're not sure which way the locknut loosens, no amount of freezing and penetrating spray is going to change that. You're now in danger of spending more on tools and magic sprays than a bike shop would charge you to fix it, and you'll probably wash all the grease out of the bearings.
I would admit defeat, spend your time / energy finding a LBS that sounds like they know about these hubs, then let them fix or condemn it.
I cannot recommend Shimano wheels highly enough for their simple, user accessible hubs...0 -
Go to your local bike shop like keef says. Cant think why you havent already0