Photography Thread
Comments
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A flash that can sync at high speed will do that.briantrumpet said:pblakeney said:
Missed this earlier. Key is shutter speed.briantrumpet said:You remember that thing I said about photographing rain... well...
Too fast or too slow will give unsatisfactory results.
I'd quite like to get s hot with individual droplets, but realise that's unlikely without a special set-up and ideal lighting...The above may be fact, or fiction, I may be serious, I may be jesting.
I am not sure. You have no chance.Veronese68 wrote:PB is the most sensible person on here.0 -
Ben
Bikes: Donhou DSS4 Custom | Condor Italia RC | Gios Megalite | Dolan Preffisio | Giant Bowery '76
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Self-timer bullseye today. Couldn't resist the straight open road, and this was my first go at counting to ten.
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Certainly no sunsets this evening, but grey can sometimes be just the ticket.
Was going to take some long shutter shots, but couldn't get slower than 1/10sec. I was thinking being so dark, it would be ideal.
Back at home, I remembered I'd set the iso to 800 last time out -doh!.
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Doh! We've all been there.
Still, it meant you caught the wave in action. Silver linings...The above may be fact, or fiction, I may be serious, I may be jesting.
I am not sure. You have no chance.Veronese68 wrote:PB is the most sensible person on here.1 -
I don't know the area from my own hiking but when I saw the title of the cliff-face (Rocher des Heures), I recalled it was mentioned in the blog of a hiker whose reports about his hikes I've sometimes followed.briantrumpet said:Rocher des Heures
There is a grassy ledge about 70% up the face of Brian's photo, which is wide enough to easily cross without any security, just one needs enough sure-footedness and no fear. This is one of the blogger's photos showing the ledge.
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jimmyjams said:
I don't know the area from my own hiking but when I saw the title of the cliff-face (Rocher des Heures), I recalled it was mentioned in the blog of a hiker whose reports about his hikes I've sometimes followed.briantrumpet said:Rocher des Heures
There is a grassy ledge about 70% up the face of Brian's photo, which is wide enough to easily cross without any security, just one needs enough sure-footedness and no fear. This is one of the blogger's photos showing the ledge.
Aha! That answers a question I've had since I've stared up at that rock... it did look like there might be a (scary) way around it, from my lowly vantage point, but I know I could never do it.
Thanks.0 -
Mind you, I did manage to get past this one (just not looking down)...
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Fascinating stuff... I've even learnt why it's called that (the sun catches each of the four pillars in turn at 9am, 10, 11 & noon), and now I'll be looking for that, and boring guests with the info.
https://www.pascal-sombardier.com/2019/10/la-vire-des-heures.html0 -
Despite the drizzle and rain, I'm liking this diffused light.
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All the marks for this one go to the creator of the trompe l'oeil... that's a completely flat wall, apart from the drainpipe & streetlight:
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...and repeat. A couple more from my "escape from reality" drip feed.
A change of mood. Only two more days of these to go.
The above may be fact, or fiction, I may be serious, I may be jesting.
I am not sure. You have no chance.Veronese68 wrote:PB is the most sensible person on here.6 -
One of the most colourful sunsets I've seen. Glad I took a tripod and waited till late.
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^^^ Ooooo! Very nice! ^^^The above may be fact, or fiction, I may be serious, I may be jesting.
I am not sure. You have no chance.Veronese68 wrote:PB is the most sensible person on here.0 -
I love the bottom pic PB. It's got some real drama.0
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Funny thing is that I was stood in 35C sunshine wishing that I'd had the brief shower that I experienced for the whole climb. Some people are never happy. 🤣masjer said:I love the bottom pic PB. It's got some real drama.
Oh, and longer focal lengths often make for more dramatic shots. Something to remember.The above may be fact, or fiction, I may be serious, I may be jesting.
I am not sure. You have no chance.Veronese68 wrote:PB is the most sensible person on here.0 -
The wider example works too, but at a lower level. 😉
I liked the way the biker draws you in. I was going to crop him out.
The above may be fact, or fiction, I may be serious, I may be jesting.
I am not sure. You have no chance.Veronese68 wrote:PB is the most sensible person on here.3 -
That's something I need to invest in. 18-50 only at the mo.pblakeney said:
Funny thing is that I was stood in 35C sunshine wishing that I'd had the brief shower that I experienced for the whole climb. Some people are never happy. 🤣masjer said:I love the bottom pic PB. It's got some real drama.
Oh, and longer focal lengths often make for more dramatic shots. Something to remember/b>.0 -
Looks like a scene from a Bond film.masjer said:I love the bottom pic PB. It's got some real drama.
Out of interest what kit are people using? I recently invested in a relatively cheap 2nd hand Sony DSLR with the intention of asking people to chip in for a mirrorless camera for my 50th in a few months if I used it a lot. However, part of me now is thinking I’d be better getting a decent lens or two for the Sony instead. The only thing making me think a mirrorless would be a good idea is that I generally carry the camera on hikes and it can get a bit heavy.
It would be nice to see some information on kit and camera settings used on photos here (I know they’ll show when people share from Flickr). It helps with my education. I’m starting to understand exposure settings but focal length and it’s effect still baffles me a bit.
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Canon powershot 16MP (£18 from ebay) easy to use compact, but suffers in low light.
Samsung mirrorless. I like the portability (only slighter bigger than a compact) but works well for most things.
I've got use of a Nikon DSLR, but never really use it.
I use a lightweight tripod too. Useful in the woods and long shutter stuff.
I do like travelling light.
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This will possibly be contentious but it is my opinion.Pross said:...
Out of interest what kit are people using? ...
These days the box that holds the card and lens is irrelevant. You are paying for ISO and focussing. If you can get what you want out of a cheap box then there is no point in paying more.
I'd put my money into a decent wide angle or telephoto lens instead, your choice and you don't need f2.8. Then the other end. Then a 50mm or 85mm 1.8 for shallow depth of field and portraits or low light.
I use a Nikon D600 so quite old and I'm quite happy using my iPhone 11 Pro for standard snaps, see my photos taken from on the bike as an example.
Mirrorless is the latest tech and has fancy features but I'm not investing until I need to replace my body as I'd need to replace all my lenses. If starting from scratch then fair enough. My observation is that a big deal is made about mirrorless bodies being smaller and lighter. This is true but the equivalent lenses are bigger and heavier so size and weight is a non-issue.
Easiest way to understand speed and f-stops is higher speed freezes action but you have to be precise with focussing as it will likely be a narrow band. Slow speed can add motion blur but gives more depth of field. The lower the f number f1.8 the less will be in focus. A higher number f11* will give a greater depth of field but at the expense of speed or ISO. I tend to have two settings. Speed mode set at 1/1000 to freeze action or have a shallow depth of field or Aperture mode set at f11 for maximum depth of field. I always use auto ISO. I switch to manual if I want a fast speed and wide depth of field.
*Anything above f13 will likely add diffraction so you will lose sharpness. Photography is *all* about compromises. Think about what is most important.The above may be fact, or fiction, I may be serious, I may be jesting.
I am not sure. You have no chance.Veronese68 wrote:PB is the most sensible person on here.0 -
Oh, and photography doesn't end when uploaded same as it didn't end when the film was processed. The dark room has simply been replaced by software. The trouble is that with the software it is too easy to go too far. Subtlety is key.The above may be fact, or fiction, I may be serious, I may be jesting.
I am not sure. You have no chance.Veronese68 wrote:PB is the most sensible person on here.0 -
I can never get colour right, the photos coming straight from the camera don’t usually look as vivid as they should but after editing tend to look over-saturated. It doesn’t help that they look right in the editor but once I save the image looks different (same screen and software).0
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I’ve a couple of the Sony a6000 bodies - small mirrorless APS-C sensor, which I find excellent. There’s a bunch of newer models with faster focus and even IBIS which I’d like. I’d recommend any of them - small and light, and excellent quality images. Much as I’d like the full frame version A7C, it’s a little chunkier, and a lot dearer! Plus it would mean changing all my lenses now.
The issue is more what lens(es) you want to use most, especially carrying on a bike. Good ones in any mount are usually expensive. Some are also heavy and bulky, even on the small body camera. I’ve a Zeiss Touit 12mm which gives great image quality but it’s a big lump, and the AF is average.
Open One+ BMC TE29 Seven 622SL On One Scandal Cervelo RS0 -
Sounds like your edited files are being viewed and/or saved using a non-compatible colour space.Pross said:I can never get colour right, the photos coming straight from the camera don’t usually look as vivid as they should but after editing tend to look over-saturated. It doesn’t help that they look right in the editor but once I save the image looks different (same screen and software).
That would result in them looking different when reopened. Check your settings.
Time to read up on Google. Here is one description - https://shotkit.com/srgb-vs-adobe-rgb/
sRGB used to be the default but most devices seem to be able to handle Adobe RGB these days so I use that throughout. There are better quality colour spaces but I don't see the point in processing something only to have to convert it back anyway.
The above may be fact, or fiction, I may be serious, I may be jesting.
I am not sure. You have no chance.Veronese68 wrote:PB is the most sensible person on here.0 -
Pross said:
Looks like a scene from a Bond film.masjer said:I love the bottom pic PB. It's got some real drama.
Out of interest what kit are people using?
I have a Canon DSLR (with a few lenses, including a telephoto and 50mm prime) and I also have a Panasonic Lumix mirrorless that’s small and goes in my gravel w@nker bar bag easily.
Very happy to share shot parameters in the future although I’m only an amateur so nothing I say or do wrt photography is gospel!Ben
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Shot RAW in Aperture mode at f8 for sharpness, 66mm full frame. Everything else on auto.Pross said:
Looks like a scene from a Bond film.masjer said:I love the bottom pic PB. It's got some real drama.
Exposure compensation of -1 added in post processing to preserve highlights and add drama. Otherwise straight from the camera, it's all about the light.The above may be fact, or fiction, I may be serious, I may be jesting.
I am not sure. You have no chance.Veronese68 wrote:PB is the most sensible person on here.0 -
I find that building Lego helps me control anxiety and keep tabs on my MH. I thought I would try and get a nice photo of the latest model:
Panasonic DMC-TZ100
Aperture: f/8
Focal length: 9.1mm
Shutter: 1/6
ISO400Ben
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