The big LIGHTS thread 2011-2014

Paul 8v

tincaman wrote:

Paul 8v wrote:

I've had a look on here but I can only find old information where the links are dead.

I'm desperately trying to find a way of mounting my magicshine mj816 so it doesn't move around on the bars. I ordered the official magicshine clamp mount but it doesn't work with 31.8mm bars as they're too large.

It's a great value light but it's next to useless off road. If anyone has any ideas of how to get these to stay put I'd be very gratefull!

Try a piece of inner tube on the bar, mount the light on top of that

Thanks tincaman, I'll do that untill the Hope mount turns up

Ouija

InkZ wrote:

I've just ordered a http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171417596413 which Ouija posted above. It looks like just what I need.

I've been running two torches for the last couple of years, but they are annoying me on the bars of my road bike. I hate having to click both buttons when wanting to change brightness, and they get in the way of my cycle computer. I don't have much scope to move them around as my cables are internally routed which means they run flat along the bar before they disappear. They also aren't floody enough so I find myself holding back quite a lot.

This is mainly for use in the forest over the winter. The torches are more than good enough for around the town, in fact I only need the one. They have performed admirably.

I'll report back how I get on.

If you like the three head emitter version and remote switch then it might be worth trying the single emitter version (4.2v with twin cell battery pack) for the road bike.....

Ouija

Craig24 wrote:

Not sure if to go for XM-L2 or XML-T6, I take it XM-L2 should be brighter? But will compromise on run-time? I ideally would like 2 hours run time.

Depends which version of the XM-L2 you get. If it's the T6 version then it'll be brighter than the T6 version of the old XM-L.

If your not aware, each emitter is tested after manufacture and thrown into different bins depending on how they perform (how much light and how little heat they emit). Much the same way silicon chips from CPU's, GPU's are. The bin numbers go..

T1 (Poor. Little light and/or lots of heat)
T2
T3
T4
T5
T6 (Good. Meets expected design specs)
U2 (Good. Exceeds expected design specs... runs brighter/cooler)
U3 (Awesome. As good as it gets)

A newer XM-L2 T6 performs much the same as an old XM-L U2 or U3 in regards brightness/heat per amps pumped through it.Unfortunately, a lot of the lights with newer XM-L2 chips in them don't tell you what bin number LED they are using, just "XM-L2" whereas most of the lights with older XM-L's in them do tend to state the bin number at the end.

Craig24

Thanks Ouija I didn't know any of that, its very helpful!

tincaman

Just received a Jexree Owl, twin XML-U2 just under £20 on Ebay. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281423636522
Feels very solid, heavier than a Solarstorm X2. The things that makes this light different is that each outer ring at the front contains a set of white led's that light up using the left hand switch. These can be on at the same time as the main lights or on their own. They can be on constant or flashing, the flashing mode is extremely distinctive, being a pair of flashing rings.
BTW, this is for the light head only, no battery pack included.

apreading

Ouija wrote:

Unfortunately, a lot of the lights with newer XM-L2 chips in them don't tell you what bin number LED they are using, just "XM-L2" whereas most of the lights with older XM-L's in them do tend to state the bin number at the end.

I wouldnt trust the quoted bin numbers particularly though - if they are anything like the lumens claims then they could be just made up!

apreading

tincaman wrote:

Just received a Jexree Owl, twin XML-U2 just under £20 on Ebay. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281423636522
Feels very solid, heavier than a Solarstorm X2. The things that makes this light different is that each outer ring at the front contains a set of white led's that light up using the left hand switch. These can be on at the same time as the main lights or on their own. They can be on constant or flashing, the flashing mode is extremely distinctive, being a pair of flashing rings.

I got a jexree owl last winter, with XML2 and it is awesome (really bright too). The ring lights flash at a sensible frequency, unlike the strobe mode that many have, so I have been able to ditch the small flasher that I used to use. The ring lights are bright enough to use in the day too, and dont draw too much power so pretty useful. One issue is that at night the flashing rings are in your peripheral vision and a bit distracting, so if you want them on in the dark it might be worth fashioning a little 'lip' on the top to shield your eyes - a bit of black masking tape might do the job. Havent used mine since early in the year but will be getting them back out soon and will look at some kind of mod to do just that.

Ouija

I got the single head version last year and had another one turn up the other day. Very good lights, especially if you take a bit of electrical tape, round off the corners and lay it over the top of the glow ring to stop it irritating your eyes.

I know someone complained about the rings not being waterproof but i've never had any problems with them in the rain, though i've only ever used them in showers and light rain, not torrential downpours or anything.

snig

got all my stuff today, 501b, batteries and charger...thing is i ordered one of these http://www.suntekstore.com/goods-140033 ... rger_.html was going to go for the Xtar WP2 II, my charger looks very cheap and I'm wondering if it's up to the job?

cooldad

I'd get a proper charger - XTAR, Nitecor or LUC.
And decent batteries.

johnmcl7

snig wrote:

got all my stuff today, 501b, batteries and charger...thing is i ordered one of these http://www.suntekstore.com/goods-140033 ... rger_.html was going to go for the Xtar WP2 II, my charger looks very cheap and I'm wondering if it's up to the job?

I have an Xtar WP2 and never had any issues with it, I'd agree with the advice to go for a decent charger and batteries.

Paul 8v

Bartimaeus wrote:

I use torches... the newer XM-L2 501bs are ridiculously cheap at under £6 (from Lightmalls) and are usefully bright on MED for about 2.5 to 3 hours. The older XML-T6 are still good, but the drivers in mine run them longer in MED but with much less light. You are buying into a 'system' with torches... once you have a charger, cells and mounts then an 'upgrade' to the newest and best LED is usually about £10 a light.

I use a 501b XM-L2 on my lid and a C8 XML-U3 on my bars (would get XM-L2 now), sometimes with a second 501b on the bars as a backup. It works really well - good for 3 hours of riding, and carrying a couple of spare cells is no problem if you think you might be out longer.

The only thing that puts me off about that eBay set up is the 'zoomable' lenses... beamshots I have seen show the beam becoming very square as they zoom, and it's one more thing to go wrong . But wait to hear from owners of zoom lights as I may be wrong.

What mount do you use for putting the light on a helmet? Also I take it you have to get an adapter for the charger to run in the UK? I'm quite liking the idea of having a light that I can upgrade at a later date as the technology seems to move quickly

snig

anyone recommend a seller on ebay for the Xtar WP2, don't fancy waiting for a delivery from China again.

cooldad

This guy.
http://ukvapers.org/Forum-Torchythebatteryboy

He's on Ebay as well, but gives 10% or so off if you buy directly through the forum. Only takes a minute to register so worth while. Also sells good batteries, and is honest. No fakes or rubbish.

snig

cheers

that's the guy from ebay i got my batteries, can't see him selling the XTAR WP2 on ebay or the vaper site?

johnmcl7

Paul 8v wrote:

What mount do you use for putting the light on a helmet? Also I take it you have to get an adapter for the charger to run in the UK? I'm quite liking the idea of having a light that I can upgrade at a later date as the technology seems to move quickly

I use this one to mount torches on my helmet:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Velcro-Helmet ... 97&afsrc=1

John

johnmcl7

What is the difference in use between the flat top and button top 18650 batteries? I realise the physical difference but I'm wondering what difference that makes in practice, I've got a couple of flat top batteries and they seem to move about a bit more in the torch body so I'm assuming button top are better for this use?

Paul 8v

Johnmcl7 wrote:

Paul 8v wrote:

What mount do you use for putting the light on a helmet? Also I take it you have to get an adapter for the charger to run in the UK? I'm quite liking the idea of having a light that I can upgrade at a later date as the technology seems to move quickly

I use this one to mount torches on my helmet:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Velcro-Helmet ... 97&afsrc=1

John

Thanks John

diy

snig wrote:

anyone recommend a seller on ebay for the Xtar WP2, don't fancy waiting for a delivery from China again.

I'd hold fire on that - the charger you have is fine. Safer than some of the cheap mains chargers and its only real weakness is its a little slow to charge.

jairaj

Johnmcl7 wrote:

What is the difference in use between the flat top and button top 18650 batteries?

Flat tops are usually used to make into larger packs. The flat top makes it easier to solder on connecting tabs. Button top is the usual format to use when using loose batteries. The tiny extra length with the button top will also make it more secure in the torch. You can also space out flat top and shorter batteries by using a few washers to get the same effect.

bartimaeus

Paul 8v wrote:

Bartimaeus wrote:

I use torches...

What mount do you use for putting the light on a helmet? Also I take it you have to get an adapter for the charger to run in the UK? I'm quite liking the idea of having a light that I can upgrade at a later date as the technology seems to move quickly

For a helmet mount I use one of these. You can get another version with the two cradles at right angles, but this one fits my Giro Xen as well as many other lids.



I just have your basic travel adapter plug like one of these, attached to a mechanical timer which is set for 3 hours on, 30 mins off, and another 3 hours on. My charger sits in an old baking tray inside a LIPO-safe bag which I got from eBay. Cells are from old laptops and seem pretty good. I've had no issues charging in the 4 years I've been using this set up.

bartimaeus

Paul 8v

Ah cool, I have heard about these lipo batteries doing nasty things. A bag sounds like a good investment!

bartimaeus

The 18650s are LION rather than LIPO... but I think that the issue is thermal runaway, which is an uncontrolled positive feedback mode of failure which is hard to tackle. My cells have never even got particularly warm. I know there can be issues charging multi-cell packs but I think single cells are pretty safe, however a bag costs very little and gives peace of mind.

snig

diy wrote:

snig wrote:

anyone recommend a seller on ebay for the Xtar WP2, don't fancy waiting for a delivery from China again.

I'd hold fire on that - the charger you have is fine. Safer than some of the cheap mains chargers and its only real weakness is its a little slow to charge.

will do then, anything to save a bit of money.

question- I got these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/291220130474? ... EBIDX%3AIT the charger doesn't charge then past 3.7v , heard mention going to 4.2, so is 3.7v fine and how far can I let them drop before recharging? seem mentioned 3.2 and 3.0 mentioned.

-Archie-

Charge them to 4.2V, and discharge to 2.5V to get full capacity.

snig

-Archie- wrote:

Charge them to 4.2V, and discharge to 2.5V to get full capacity.

cheers, will do but I'll have to use a different charger then, as the one I have stops charging just below 3.7v.

got one of these too so that'll probably take the batteriesto4.2v. http://www.lightmalls.com/useful-single ... 50-battery

-Archie-

snig wrote:

got one of these too so that'll probably take the batteriesto4.2v. http://www.lightmalls.com/useful-single ... 50-battery

It should, but be very careful with Chinese $2 charger (especially connected directly to the mains), and check its actual end-of-charge voltage...

johnmcl7

Th3P wrote:

Also Ive just seen and may order 18650 Water proof case (support 4 x 18650) but allows you choose your own batteries, seems a good idea as I keep a decent stock of 18650s.



My only concern is there would appear to be no form of circuit protection

These don't seem to be available from that seller, anyone know of another source? Alternatively I see the Torchy guy sells these battery packs and charger which I assume are reasonable quality so I may give one of those a go.

John

snig

-Archie- wrote:

snig wrote:

got one of these too so that'll probably take the batteriesto4.2v. http://www.lightmalls.com/useful-single ... 50-battery

It should, but be very careful with Chinese $2 charger (especially connected directly to the mains), and check its actual end-of-charge voltage...

cheers, been trying the $2 one but thought I'd try the other one again, noticed a button on top of the charger, when pressed the charge light changes from green to red, no idea about these things but it seems to be charging as the battery is now up to 3.9v, so I'll keep checking it, the light may turn to green at 4.2 but I'll manually stop it at 4.2v, this charger was around $10 so hopefully a little safer