The big LIGHTS thread 2011-2014

itboffin

i bought a bunch of single battery holders a few years back with the intention of building my own 4 + 6 pack sets, they're still in the bag.

Perhaps i should actually do something with them.

supersonic

They might get less efficient - but it was sheer output I wanted to increase. I would be happy with 1500-2000ma through the 9 LEDs, a good trade off. 180ma was never going to cut it lol.

I'll have an experiment, but it seems the driver only wants to output about 4.5w!

Yeah, I think building your own packs is a good idea, I'm thinking of converting a triple torch.

Tarqy

Paul 8v wrote:

I can recommend Torchy, he was very helpful and the service was great

I've had a look at the lights on offer and one of the Fluxient ones looks like it would do nicely but there seem to be so many different options and very little difference from the demo pictures. Can someone in the know about this sort of tech give me an idea of which of these would be a good option please?

1) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Latest-Fluxie ... 43cfea1581
2) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Latest-3600-L ... 1c46251e52
3) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fluxient-Phot ... 46274c211b

nfrang

davidmt83 wrote:

Ouija wrote:

Yep, which is why i always recommend the Trustfire Tr-D002 (also sold as the Torchy Oriole 2x)

Would you pick the Trustfire Tr-D002 over the TrustFire 2400Lm CREE XM-L T6 LED then?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/311073160454? ... 1436.l2649

Also what about one for lit streets just to get noticed by drivers?

I'm also looking for a commute light and have been reading a lot(mainly this thread) I'm sure someone will explain it much better but basically that seller is talking rubbish. 2400lm from a single T6 isn't possible. I wouldn't buy jack from them.
I'm looking at torches as I don't want the faff of a battery pack strapped on my frame. Batteries is another minefield it seems. And chargers that don't set your house on fire. I'm thinking about an Ultrafire C8 or 502b with a charger and Panasonic 3400mah batteries from Torchyboy.

Ouija

davidmt83 wrote:

Ouija wrote:

Yep, which is why i always recommend the Trustfire Tr-D002 (also sold as the Torchy Oriole 2x)

Would you pick the Trustfire Tr-D002 over the TrustFire 2400Lm CREE XM-L T6 LED then?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/311073160454? ... 1436.l2649

Also what about one for lit streets just to get noticed by drivers?

That would make for a nice commuting light with the remote switch and small head unit, but as above, it's only a single old XM-L running at 4.2v so probably only putting out between 600/900 lumen. Same as a XM-L based torch. It's got the silly rubber band mount, but that's not much of a problem as you wont be jamming your finger into the back of it with a remote switch (which can rotate the light downwards if you get too enthusiastic doing it).

As for my previous comments, the Solarstorm X2 is a great light. But the quality of battery packs coming out of China with these sub £30 lights at the moment is diabolical (wasn't the case a few years back). And even buying the cheap sub £20 aftermarket packs is a minefield (bought aftermarket "upgrade" packs from Lightmalls and Kaidomain and pretty much had to bin them). Which often means you have to splash out over £30 for a battery pack that can do justice to the light, which is a false economy unless you already have a decent battery pack to hook it up to.

The last three Trustfire batteries that came with some lights i've bought have been pretty outstanding and the main reason i keep recommending the TR-D002 over the Solarstorm. Not because it's the better light as they are both as good as each other, but simply because it's seems the more complete package (you don't need to spend extra getting a decent battery pack or a better bar mount with the bonus of a remote switch thrown in).

diy

supersonic wrote:

They might get less efficient - but it was sheer output I wanted to increase. I would be happy with 1500-2000ma through the 9 LEDs, a good trade off. 180ma was never going to cut it lol.

I'll have an experiment, but it seems the driver only wants to output about 4.5w!

Yeah, I think building your own packs is a good idea, I'm thinking of converting a triple torch.

Could go 3 sets of 3 series and use fine wire (to create some resistance) with a direct drive set-up on the pack. But probably easier to look at a better driver - there are some about which will give you 500mA per LED ~ 2000 lumen.

Lets face it the cells in the pack are not going to be the best, so you may* get away with a direct drive setup.

hender

I've bought a solar storm x2 - how long does it take to charge the battery pack? Does the green light on the charger change when charged? Charged for a good 3-4 hrs and the power indicator on the light itself is on 1 light?

Ouija

The indicator on most chargers goes red when charging and green when finished (or when plugged into the battery but not switched on).

Could just be a terrible battery pack (see my post above about the terrible packs coming with some of these lights). If the pack is getting warm when charging you could have a duff cell or two in it (caution: they tend to explode if you keep trying to charge them when they get hot like that). Could of been duff from the beginning or because the pack has been left to discharge over time (never let Li-Ion packs discharge below 30%).

hender

Completely dead now. Hopefully they will replace or I'll have to make a new one myself. The light itself is spot on though

hender

Completely dead now - never got warm. Hopefully they will replace or I'll have to make a new one myself. The light itself is spot on though. What's best option for replacement battery pack

Ouija

hender wrote:

. What's best option for replacement battery pack

Torchy sells a reasonable 4 cell pack. Or a six cell pack if you want more runtime. Though, frankly, it's a bit cheaper to make your own if you've got the tools to do so....

bj639

are there any fixes for torches (have trustfire c8 XM L2) that cycle through the functions if the ground is rough? Sure I read something about there being one but cant remember what it was.

Ouija

bj639 wrote:

are there any fixes for torches (have trustfire c8 XM L2) that cycle through the functions if the ground is rough? Sure I read something about there being one but cant remember what it was.

Wrap your batteries in tape so they can't slide back and forth in the torch tube (this is what causes them to break contact). And don't use rubber mounts that allow the torch to wobble back and forth in the first place (stiffer is better).

bj639

thanks Ouija will dig out my tape

diy

Make sure everything is tight too:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zJpQAvum0bM&t=1m45s

steviemidnight

anyone use remote switches on their torches?
I have some 501b's the remote switches i purchased at a massive £1.50 each from ebay are pressure switches and hence utter useless for what i want to do.

I'm looking at something like this to replace the pressure switch:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/E69-Mini-Din- ... 3cb4bbc88f

Any recommendations? as its almost the price of a new torch

diy

Wont work, if you just want to change mode remotely you need a break on push switch (search for Push to break switch)
http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/250v-black-pu ... itch-fh60q

You don't need a fancy tail cap, you can drill a small hole in the body for the wires to go through and connect the wires between spring and body and just use a bit of inner tube between cell and spring to avoid a bypass. A dollop of silicon sealing on the hole will keep it water tight. then you can do on off & mode with tail cap and mode with remote switch.

Ouija

I simply bought some Electron halogen bike lights cheap off ebay for a fiver because they all come with this switch...



which works exactly like the tailcap switch on a 501/502 torch (can click it on or off or just lightly tap it to get a mode change). Then it's simply a case of attaching it to the torch. To do that you simply by one of those useless momentary remote switches for the torch and cut the pressure pad off the end and either solder the wires directly to the electron switch or wire them to appropriate male/female jack sockets.



If you use jack sockets, you can use a three way connector to allow external battery packs to be put in the circuit. You just need to make a dummy battery to go inside the torch (which i did by using 16mm dowling rods and some thumb tacks).



Or battery saddle bags. Lol.

steviemidnight

@DIY i'll look at he switches in more details but I've seen similar used on other builds.

@Ouija thanks thats a great idea
Thanks guys

Ouija

steviemidnight wrote:

@DIY i'll look at he switches in more details but I've seen similar used on other builds.

@Ouija thanks thats a great idea
Thanks guys

You can get the remote Electron EHP switch here..... It's by far the best switch to use with a 501/502 torch as it replicates it's functions exactly, being a combined latching and break on push switch, waterproof and designed to be strapped to handlebars or grips.

As for the switch you bought for your torch. You have to remember that the 501/502 torches are tactical (military) torches designed for defence (hence the jagged bezel, for punching people in the face with and the rapid, disorientating, flash). The most common thing they get mounted on are machine guns and rifles, hence the non latching remote pressure switch that mounts to the stock of a rifle and is kept on by thumb pressure from the shooter.

diy

Ouija wrote:

Or battery saddle bags. Lol.

What were you going for - 24hr run time ?

bigmitch41

Can somebody help please, I got my lights wet at the weekend, the battery pack to be precise and since then they have stopped working. I have had the battery pack on the radiator since this happened (on Saturday). Do we think the battery pack is going to be knackered now?

Its the Solarstorm 2xcree with a 4 x 18650 battery pack (not waterproof)

tincaman

BigMitch41 wrote:

Can somebody help please, I got my lights wet at the weekend, the battery pack to be precise and since then they have stopped working. I have had the battery pack on the radiator since this happened (on Saturday). Do we think the battery pack is going to be knackered now?

Its the Solarstorm 2xcree with a 4 x 18650 battery pack (not waterproof)

The circuit board inside the pack will have got wet, I would strip the pack apart to dry it out, you can re-assemble with insulation or duct-tape

bigmitch41

tincaman wrote:

BigMitch41 wrote:

Can somebody help please, I got my lights wet at the weekend, the battery pack to be precise and since then they have stopped working. I have had the battery pack on the radiator since this happened (on Saturday). Do we think the battery pack is going to be knackered now?

Its the Solarstorm 2xcree with a 4 x 18650 battery pack (not waterproof)

The circuit board inside the pack will have got wet, I would strip the pack apart to dry it out, you can re-assemble with insulation or duct-tape

Thanks Tincaman, I'll give it a go

TheRevOlutionary

BigMitch41 wrote:

tincaman wrote:

BigMitch41 wrote:

Can somebody help please, I got my lights wet at the weekend, the battery pack to be precise and since then they have stopped working. I have had the battery pack on the radiator since this happened (on Saturday). Do we think the battery pack is going to be knackered now?

Its the Solarstorm 2xcree with a 4 x 18650 battery pack (not waterproof)

The circuit board inside the pack will have got wet, I would strip the pack apart to dry it out, you can re-assemble with insulation or duct-tape

Thanks Tincaman, I'll give it a go

With this scenario in mind (I've just bought a power pack and light combo from DX), what is the best way of waterproofing during your ride? The cable on my light doesn't reach my waterproof saddle bag, however I do have a waterproof bag with eyelet that could hold the battery pack, but where could I mount it and easily remove for recharging etc? Anyone got anything that has worked for them? Bottle cage mount perhaps?

mcnultycop

I use a triathlon feed bag. Others have pointed out it would move (it doesn't) and scratch my paint (raw frame, so it won't, but heli tape'd sort that anyway). About a tenner for a Deuter one from Wiggle. On my Scandal, think there is a pic in the link on my sig.

Northern_Monkey13

Has anyone used a niterider pro 1400 light?
And is it worth 99 pounds

http://www.winstanleysbikes.co.uk/produ ... _1400_Head

TheRevOlutionary

mcnultycop wrote:

I use a triathlon feed bag. Others have pointed out it would move (it doesn't) and scratch my paint (raw frame, so it won't, but heli tape'd sort that anyway). About a tenner for a Deuter one from Wiggle. On my Scandal, think there is a pic in the link on my sig.

Thanks mcnultycop spotted this version which will do a treat;

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/deuter-front-triangle-bag/

I can keep the battery pack in a bag inside so it wont get too wet in the rain as it's not waterproof, but better than open to the elements!

diy

Water bottle is a good place to keep a non waterproof pack or simply a poly bag and an elastic band.

Northern_Monkey13 wrote:

Has anyone used a niterider pro 1400 light?
And is it worth 99 pounds

http://www.winstanleysbikes.co.uk/produ ... _1400_Head

That price is just for head only - which unless they have updated it is two CREE MC-E LEDs. Great LED 3 years ago. But you are left finding a power pack. TBH the heads are the easy bit to source and there are better options at £30, getting a reliable cell/pack is the challenge.

Mister_g

diy wrote:

....or simply a poly bag and an elastic band.

...and mount the battery pack so that the wire goes up from the bottom, not down from the top (to stop water running down the wire and into the pack).