The big LIGHTS thread 2011-2014
Comments
-
I think you have misunderstood - the SOS mode and Flash mode both use the maximum brightness (i.e. the high setting)0
-
For flashing, I just use something like the Mars click - it doesnt need to be as bright as these chinese jobbies. The batteries in the click last forever and because of the shape, it is quite visible from the side too.0
-
I should add that actually, I have upgraded to a Jexree Owl which has halo lights with a proper slow flash - this is really good solution.0
-
snig wrote:Ouija wrote:If your going to use flash at all with those lights, use the SOS mode (slow blink that spells out S.O.S in morse code), not the regular flash designed to subdue opponents. Assuming it's got the full 5 modes (High, Medium, Low, Flash, S.O.S).
ok so I can use the S.O.S mode on the lower setting...that's good to know cheers.
All flash modes are at full brightness on these style torches (which can be upto 900/1000 lumen). It's simply that the S.O.S mode is a slow, lazy blinking of the torch which is very visible but isn't as distracting as the very rapid standard flash (which is a fast strobe, really).
As for there suitablity for commuting, it depends on weather you want a light that only allows motorists to see you (most cheap Halford and local bike shop style lights) or a light that can also be used on quiet dark lanes in pitch blackness and put out as much light as a car or motorbike headlight. If the former, then any 5watt LED light powered off AA/AAA type batteries will do. If both, then tactical torches, capable of over 10watt output and running off high capacity lithium ion batteries is the way to go.
The alternative is to buy a dedicated bike light built around the same technology (lithium-Ion battery pack, Cree XM-L emitter). These tend to be ready made for bikes, with mounts for the bars and battery and even come with extra features such as remote switches to attach to the grips (so you can change brightness without moving your hand from the bars). But they are a bit bulkier and less 'minimalist' as the torches.0 -
Ouija wrote:snig wrote:Ouija wrote:If your going to use flash at all with those lights, use the SOS mode (slow blink that spells out S.O.S in morse code), not the regular flash designed to subdue opponents. Assuming it's got the full 5 modes (High, Medium, Low, Flash, S.O.S).
ok so I can use the S.O.S mode on the lower setting...that's good to know cheers.
All flash modes are at full brightness on these style torches (which can be upto 900/1000 lumen). It's simply that the S.O.S mode is a slow, lazy blinking of the torch which is very visible but isn't as distracting as the very rapid standard flash (which is a fast strobe, really).
As for there suitablity for commuting, it depends on weather you want a light that only allows motorists to see you (most cheap Halford and local bike shop style lights) or a light that can also be used on quiet dark lanes in pitch blackness and put out as much light as a car or motorbike headlight. If the former, then any 5watt LED light powered off AA/AAA type batteries will do. If both, then tactical torches, capable of over 10watt output and running off high capacity lithium ion batteries is the way to go.
The alternative is to buy a dedicated bike light built around the same technology (lithium-Ion battery pack, Cree XM-L emitter). These tend to be ready made for bikes, with mounts for the bars and battery and even come with extra features such as remote switches to attach to the grips (so you can change brightness without moving your hand from the bars). But they are a bit bulkier and less 'minimalist' as the torches.
cheers, my main concern is if the 501b can be used on roads with traffic, I only really need a light to be seen with but I see the extra light to see with as a bonus but as said only if it's safe in traffic.
So to be clear, am I safe to use the 501 on SOS mode in traffic and not going to get stopped by the police for blinding drivers? or do I need the torch on constant mode or better with the cree? as I've ordered the 501 would like to try and make the 501s work for me if possible.
If so could you or someone recommend a voltage checker to buy (cheap...is this one ok for whati need? http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/maplin-domest ... eter-n20ax ) and I've just watched DIY's vid (thanks) on getting 18650 out of packs and he talked about how to charge them, i.e slowly with a rest every hour, was that what was meant earlier by "18650 priming"?
ps just to add I have a cateye front light for flashing duty, got into this because I was looking for something a bit better and also as a back up, so I guess I could leave the 501 on a constant mode and use the cateye for flashing....surely that will be plenty to get me seen? just feeling a little vulnerable on the bike with just the cateye, hence getting myself confused in this thread :oops:0 -
bought the maplin multimeter and it's showing 4 of my laptop batteries at under 2.4v 2 as low as 1.9, but two are 2.97 so will the 2 at 2.97v be ok to use in the 501b torches or should I buy some new cells?
This charger on the way http://www.lightmalls.com/useful-single ... 50-battery is it ok? was linked in this thread, if it's best to buy new cells, will protected cells fit in this charger?
cheers.0 -
You're playing with fire - I would avoid cheap chargers and sub standard batteries - decent stuff isn't expensive and is less likely to burn your house down/blow your hand off.
Nitecore and Efest LUC chargers are good, and this guy sells decent batteries - his own 'Torchy' brand are decent and cheap.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/big_f_d_d/m.h ... 1543.l2654I don't do smileys.
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
London Calling on Facebook
Parktools0 -
There are also a lot of fake batteries - generally reclaimed old laptop batteries recovered as name brands and sold as new, so buy from a trusted seller.I don't do smileys.
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
London Calling on Facebook
Parktools0 -
cooldad wrote:You're playing with fire - I would avoid cheap chargers and sub standard batteries - decent stuff isn't expensive and is less likely to burn your house down/blow your hand off.
Nitecore and Efest LUC chargers are good, and this guy sells decent batteries - his own 'Torchy' brand are decent and cheap.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/big_f_d_d/m.h ... 1543.l2654
OK thanks, could you link which cells to go for from that seller and which charger please.
would prefer protected cells, Needed for 2 501b torches.0 -
Sorry, "Primer" is an Americanism for "an introduction to".
Here's a guide to ripping laptop batteries
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/sho ... Extraction0 -
butcher of bakersfield wrote:Well, I bought an Xtar WPII charger after it was recommended to me in this thread (and my Ultrafire one had blown up...OK, the wire did, it was obviously exposed), and I have to say, after a couple of uses I have confidence in it.
I have little technical knowledge of battery chargers, but throughout their charge the batteries remained reasonably cool. Never peeped above luke warm, and cooled back to room temp nearly towards the end of the charge. I'm pretty sure that must be a good sign...
did you buy this from ebay? if so which seller did you use?0 -
Snig, use your 501bs to see with. if you want a flasher use a button cell type that comes with a bit of elastic that you can attach to the bars. £shop does them and the little cells last for months. With a flasher its not about brightness. For road use, I've never run more than 2 501bs on more than medium and thats only when sprinting down a dark country road.
There are some good USB power packs that take 18650s which double as chargers as well as being very useful for things like powering a garmin or iPhone while on the move.0 -
diy wrote:Snig, use your 501bs to see with. if you want a flasher use a button cell type that comes with a bit of elastic that you can attach to the bars. £shop does them and the little cells last for months. With a flasher its not about brightness. For road use, I've never run more than 2 501bs on more than medium and thats only when sprinting down a dark country road.
There are some good USB power packs that take 18650s which double as chargers as well as being very useful for things like powering a garmin or iPhone while on the move.
cheers, I remember seeing one in one of your posts, wasn't sure how a 18650 would be charged tho in one of them, as they seemed no place to put one...I'll take a look again.
Yeah come this far, not turning back now, I'll see what I think when the 501bs land, sure they will come in useful, and I have a cateye too for flashing duty, the 501bs were meant as only backup but seeing my mistake now.0 -
They look like this inside. come in 1, 2, 3, 4 and 6 cells options
0 -
diy wrote:They look like this inside. come in 1, 2, 3, 4 and 6 cells options
cheers, ordered one of these http://www.suntekstore.co.uk/product-14 ... rger_.html
and these batteries http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-Torchy-Pan ... 43ce128aaa
was a bit unsure of the batteries, being 3100mAh and button tops, are they ok?0 -
Where's the best place to get a complete SS-X2 kit, one with a fused UK plug?
Need one for a mate to convince him to come out on night rides.
Also, what would be a decent back up for my MJ-880? Something with no battery pack preferably.
TaCurrent:
NukeProof Mega FR 2012
Cube NuRoad 2018
Previous:
2015 Genesis CdF 10, 2014 Cube Hyde Race, 2012 NS Traffic, 2007 Specialized SX Trail, 2005 Specialized Demo 80 -
Sadly the darkness is creeping back in so time to get back onto finding new lights, where's the best place to get some WF-502B's with XML2-T6 or better emitters? The couple of UK places I've seen stocking them have poor feedback claiming the emitters are not XML2's, Lightmalls were a waste of time (shipped the wrong light, refused to exchange or refund it) and I can't seem to see this type on Kaidomain although there's a lot of lights on there so might be missing them.
John0 -
Have a scan of Ebay and UK sellers. At least you have more rights and quicker shipping.0
-
I'm finding that quite difficult, there's two selling the right type of light on eBay but one appears to have copied the other one's listing and both seem to be Chinese despite claiming to be in the UK.0
-
do Lightmalls send dispatched emails? been a week now but no word on the order?
yet Suntek sent a dispatched email within2 days.0 -
I never had any problem with suntek or lightmalls. I DON'T buy Batteries though and only buy cheap lights. I think the problems have always been with 18650 Lithium Ion Rechargeables in the post or more expensive orders.
The choices this year for proper bike lights are awesome - the challenge of reliable power hasn't changed.
I'm still recommending this:
http://www.lightmalls.com/ultrafire-wf- ... ch-1-18650
Even though you can get an 8 LED XM-L2 incl. 6 cell pack for about £50
http://www.lightmalls.com/vicmax-8-cree ... ttery-pack0 -
Lightmalls tried to charge me a 13 pound handling fee for 20 quids worth of lights - once they had arrived. I won't use them again.0
-
supersonic wrote:Lightmalls tried to charge me a 13 pound handling fee for 20 quids worth of lights - once they had arrived.0
-
I don't know, but I kicked off and they eventually waived the fees as a 'good will gesture'.0
-
supersonic wrote:I don't know, but I kicked off and they eventually waived the fees as a 'good will gesture'.
did they card your card? or just bill you?
I've used paypal so I don't think they could do it with that?0 -
Billed me, I payed with card. I wrote and said that there was no prior warning of this in their T and Cs and I wasn't liable.0
-
diy wrote:I never had any problem with suntek or lightmalls. I DON'T buy Batteries though and only buy cheap lights. I think the problems have always been with 18650 Lithium Ion Rechargeables in the post or more expensive orders.
The choices this year for proper bike lights are awesome - the challenge of reliable power hasn't changed.
I'm still recommending this:
http://www.lightmalls.com/ultrafire-wf- ... rch-1-18650
Even though you can get an 8 LED XM-L2 incl. 6 cell pack for about £50
http://www.lightmalls.com/vicmax-8-cree ... ttery-pack
Given the Ultrafire WF5011B a go ordered via Amazon that way if I have any problem returns is via Amazon. As there is a few reviews mentioning battery being 3000MaH and not the quoted 4000 aswell as not including the bike mount.
Had some left over PayPal funds from recent sales so also bought a NiteCore D4 charger also comes with 4 x UNIROSS 2400 18650 (Not sure if they are any good?) But had a £5 PayPal voucher and had to be an item from Electronics and this listing was.
That means I have a Solarstorm X3 on the bars, Im looking for a helmet light and seen people mention the X2 and also HD016 any feedback on either? The Ultra fire will either accompany on the helmet or fall in as a backup
Thanks in advance0 -
Also Ive just seen and may order 18650 Water proof case (support 4 x 18650) but allows you choose your own batteries, seems a good idea as I keep a decent stock of 18650s.
My only concern is there would appear to be no form of circuit protection0 -
Ive mentioned this last year , but never quiet got round to it, building my own battery pack to run 2 502b xml2's with removable 18650,s.The power packs available, 4 cells type can only output 2 amps,so would have to use 2,the 4 cell water proof case above out puts 8.4 volts, so bit too high there, what the best options out there please.0
-
Th3P wrote:Also Ive just seen and may order 18650 Water proof case (support 4 x 18650) but allows you choose your own batteries, seems a good idea as I keep a decent stock of 18650s.
My only concern is there would appear to be no form of circuit protection
Don't need circuit protection if you use protected cells (recommended anyway because regular 18650's rattle in that case) as each cell protects itself. And you don't need any balancing circuitry as you can take each cell out and charge them separately every now and again.....0