Boardman CX Owners Thread

Muzzledoctor

Chain Reaction have a 10% off components at the moment and I picked up a BB7 (amongst other things) for under £45. Code is CM10

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/avid ... -prod67750

newtonuk

evo456 wrote:

antsmithmk wrote:

OK,
1. Ritchey Pro Carbon - can be had for £32

Where from? I'll have one!

evo456

newtonuk wrote:

evo456 wrote:

antsmithmk wrote:

OK,
1. Ritchey Pro Carbon - can be had for £32

Where from? I'll have one!

Chain reaction with the cm10 voucher code, not really the lightest around, but you know price/weight ratio and all that.

Kimble

what are opinions on cable colour for the 2010-12 cx team? yellow cables to add a bit of bling? or the braided cable look? replacing all cables on my cx team and tempted by Jagwire road pro complete set in yellow. http://jagwire.com/products/v/road_pro

Muzzledoctor

Kimble wrote:

what are opinions on cable colour for the 2010-12 cx team? yellow cables to add a bit of bling? or the braided cable look? replacing all cables on my cx team and tempted by Jagwire road pro complete set in yellow. http://jagwire.com/products/v/road_pro

I've always found that coloured outers discolour quite quickly and the initial bling look is lost. I've just stuck with black throughout and use bottle cage bolts, grip ends and other trim to add colour.

Cutty Dyer

I Stoopidly whacked on a pair of Mavic Crossrides which haven't really saved on wheel set weight (marginally) but are an all round better wheelset than the stock offering. I have set them up tubeless and have really saved on weight there, they have taken a really bashing on rocky terrain and trail rides without so much as a burp of sealant/air along the way.

I assume the kineses CX disc can run tubeless?

I'm getting where I want with the bike now, tyres and wheel set / tubeless as above, XT 11-34 cassette, dura ace front mech, suicides off and new bar tape, longer carbon stem and carbon seat post with less offset, BB7s and much lighter discs fitted, new saddle....

I now have a spare new set of wheels with original discs, tyres and cassette, a brand spanking new carbon fork, stem, seat, bb5s and microshift front mech should anyone be on the lookout for parts - either that or I will just have to pick up a frame to fit this lot to :-)))) actually, not a bad idea ????

CXrider

My CS is in Halfords today for a full service.

I do hope it comes out in better condition than it went in

Cutty Dyer

Well it will have oil on the chain. I doubt if anything else will be touched.

bigmul

Just back from an hour off-road with my CX Team (current version). It creaks more than ever and driving me to distraction. Just before I went I removed the chainset, re-greased everything and also tightened the headset and stem too. Not sure if it's the forks, headset, bottom bracket or the whole bloody lot.

Creaking happens whether in the saddle or not, so have ruled out seat post, I've changed saddle so ruled that out too.

Any tips on what to check?

Cutty Dyer

What condition is the BB in?

Mine was as dry as a bone with the non-drive side notching after about 60 - 100km.

bigmul

Non drive side bearing feels a bit "gritty", tried flushing with gt85 and then liberally slapping grease on. Not sure that even like it is it would creak so much though which is why I'm wondering if it could be the forks, bars, headset, stem etc...

Cutty Dyer

Check your chainring bolts as well

Viking2136

I now need a new bb30 - halfrauds have 2 a road set and a mtb set - any idea which one is in the cx? I wouldnt normally go back but i have a service plan and dont have the tools to do a BB

Viking2136

bigmul wrote:

Just back from an hour off-road with my CX Team (current version). It creaks more than ever and driving me to distraction. Just before I went I removed the chainset, re-greased everything and also tightened the headset and stem too. Not sure if it's the forks, headset, bottom bracket or the whole bloody lot.

Creaking happens whether in the saddle or not, so have ruled out seat post, I've changed saddle so ruled that out too.

Any tips on what to check?

Mul, I had the same, my rear whell had had wter ingress and the ball bearings were well rusty - cleaned re-greased all was going well unitl the left bearing went on my BB today!

1000 miles in nearly re-built it!

bigmul

I have a feeling it is the wheel now. I might get LBS to check both bearings out while truing the read wheel too - and maybe try to fettle the breaks!

cmt

Pretty much decided on the CX after a week of deliberating on keeping my Boardman Team R (Urban Carbon Forked MTB on Slicks) and paring it with a Road bike or going for the all in one solution of the CX.

As i don't really have that much storage the CX option seems the better one, but reading through this thread (Yes i read all 102 pages of it!) it seems that the 2013 model is the better / preferred option.

Are these like to still be available anywhere?

Viking2136

I saw one in Derby Halfords 2 weeks ago in a med - if thats close

cmt

Thanks - Derby is doable, but would need a large.

Does anyone know the 'product code' for the 2013 model in large so that i can ask them to search for it across all stores.

Viking2136

if you find a med ill have it and swap you my large - lol

I think its 226873

fret

Greetings all. I've been a bit quiet of late as nothing to report. Nothing new bought.

Bike is still running superbly. A wee creak turned out to be the rear skewer not tight enough, so, Bigmul, check your wheels for tightness.

I've had it for a year and a half now and it seems the same parts wear out around 9-10 months or 3-3500 miles roughly
New rear pads (the fronts are still fine)
New chain as the last one was really bad and clicking in the lower ratios when the quick-link passed.
New wheels from January/February are still true and at 1400g won't be replaced in a hurry.
Still on 23mm Gatorskins but they're wearing so 25's will go on soon.
Had a spate of flats in 3 weeks and then nothing.

That's about it really. Nice to have the lights off but the mudguards are staying as it rains too often still.

Just sold one of my motorbikes, so we shall see what farkles I can get.

Cutty Dyer

What wheels do you have there at 1400g?

Viking2136

Im sick of punctures, I have a new route to work which is 40 mile round trip on a cycle path and canal towpath - its great I dont see a car in the morning till the 17 mile point, but the puncture are coming thick and fast, so question, Im looking at going to gator skins to get away from 2 flats a week on my current conti CX speeds, do I go for 28s or 32s with the gators, I like the comfort of my 35's now and really temped to for 32 on the gators but is there a lot of difference to the 28s?

essex-commuter

4mm

newtonuk

Cutty Dyer wrote:

What wheels do you have there at 1400g?

fret wrote:

Ryde Pulse Disc road rims with Novatec hubs, Sapim Laser spokes. 1400g and £425.00.
They will only take 23 & 25mm tyres really, but I have been using the 28's with no adverse effects over the last month. Being 30mm deep aero will help greatly too.

Viking2136

essex-commuter wrote:

4mm

excellent - now i know ill buy them




:roll:

cmt

Due to a balls up by halfords I have a 'shop soiled' CX team coming from one store and a boxed unbuilt new CX team coming from another.

Will look at them both this week and see what deal I can come up with.

The 10% offer ends this Monday but have been given the wink that its being extended for another week so all is good.

Viking2136

nice one, i did the same, if your a British cycling member you get another 10% off - i got my cx for 650

cmt

Viking2136 wrote:

nice one, i did the same, if your a British cycling member you get another 10% off - i got my cx for 650

Signed up for BC on Friday. Already paid for itself as a work colleague wanted a TomTom GPS watch so saved £20 on that :-)

fret

Viking2136 wrote:

Im sick of punctures, I have a new route to work which is 40 mile round trip on a cycle path and canal towpath - its great I dont see a car in the morning till the 17 mile point, but the puncture are coming thick and fast, so question, Im looking at going to gator skins to get away from 2 flats a week on my current conti CX speeds, do I go for 28s or 32s with the gators, I like the comfort of my 35's now and really temped to for 32 on the gators but is there a lot of difference to the 28s?

Having used 3 types of puncture resistant tyres I can give the following advice based on many thousands of miles of commuting. No pneumatic tyre is puncture PROOF, you will get flats. Small cuts and splits can be repaired with superglue and a large patch on the inside of the tyre quite successfully.
Sizewise? 25mm seem the best daily commute for the road, currently 23's as the wheels I have will only take 23/25. 28mm are OK, a bit heavy on the Gatorskins, but comfy.

I commute 90 miles a week/ 4500miles per annum, all year, every type of weather with some horrible debris strewn roads in Portsmouth. Experiences based on Wire Beaded versions and several different types of wheelsets from £90.00 to £700.00

Gatorskin. 23 and 25mm
Quite light, very puncture resistant, probably about 6 a year at a guess. I had one pair last 2 years/8-9000 miles and although plenty of tread left there were cuts and small holes over the entire tyre, so time to change. The current 23's have tread left, starting to flat around the circumference and plenty of nicks , splits & holes and due for replacement. I've had around 3 pairs of these now. Can be hard to remove and fit, but generally OK

Gator Hardshell. 28mm only
Almost bulletproof. Probably 4 or 5 punctures a year at most, quite difficult to get on and off the rims. Been on the bike for over a year now (5000 miles) and showing a flat spot on both tyres around the entire circumference (I swap tyres round every 3 or 4 months) Several splits and cuts on both, some repaired as above. Comfortable and quite fast rolling, but heavy.

Bontrager Racelite Hardcase. 23mm
Brilliant tyre. ONE puncture in 11 months. Plenty of splits & cuts, one large split repaired as above. Heavier than Gatorskins and difficult to get on the rim. Much cheaper at £20.00, but hard to get.

It's down to choice, but I still like the Gatorskins the most. Whatever your own choices the only other advice I can offer is;
Keep the pressures at least 90psi or as hard as the maximum as this greatly decreases the chance of pinch flats and for some reason less normal punctures. I run at 110-130psi
Buy tyres a month or two before you need them and hang them up to "cure" as you WILL get punctures on a brand new tyre, guaranteed, especially if it is wet. "Cured" tyres suffer less.
Water acts as a lubricant, so inspect tyres every week or two for embedded flints and splits


The Ryde Pulse wheelset is now on 23's. Lovely, a few punctures and only yesterday did I look at the wheels for the first time and had to tweak a few spokes to get them true again.

Viking2136

thanks Fret, appreciated, i think gators are for me ill give them a go - ordered