Boardman CX Owners Thread

newtonuk

EKE_38BPM wrote:

fret wrote:

That's too easy. People expect a bike to be a perfect fit. :twisted:

My Kaffenback fits me perfectly.

Hi Eke, my Grifter used to fit me perfectly when I was 10, but I didn't want to mention it because it is about as relevant as your Kaffenback fitting you.

EKE_38BPM

newtonuk wrote:

EKE_38BPM wrote:

fret wrote:

That's too easy. People expect a bike to be a perfect fit. :twisted:

My Kaffenback fits me perfectly.

Hi Eke, my Grifter used to fit me perfectly when I was 10, but I didn't want to mention it because it is about as relevant as your Kaffenback fitting you.

Not really.

fret

Was that a plane flying over my head?

EKE_38BPM

fret wrote:

Was that a plane flying over my head?

Did it go"Woosh!"?


I knew someone would bite.

rubertoe

EKE_38BPM wrote:

fret wrote:

Was that a plane flying over my head?

Did it go"Woosh!"?


I knew someone would bite.

My Kaffenback didn't fit me perfectly, I fettled with the position and now it does.

newtonuk

The cage on my rear derailleur seems out of line with the chainline and there is a definite jump on the chain every revolution. Does anybody elses derailleur seem askew?

rubertoe

newtonuk wrote:

The cage on my rear derailleur seems out of line with the chainline and there is a definite jump on the chain every revolution. Does anybody elses derailleur seem askew?

how old is it?

Might be a bit of cable stretch or just a slight adjustment of the barrel adjuster.

newtonuk

Only a few weeks, I've done 320 miles.

The top jockey wheel lines up nicely, but the lower jockey wheel (and the cage) seems to be misaligned.

rubertoe

newtonuk wrote:

Only a few weeks, I've done 320 miles.

The top jockey wheel lines up nicely, but the lower jockey wheel (and the cage) seems to be misaligned.

The Bottom Jockey shouldnt have any effect on the chain skipping, AFAIK. Someone much more qualified will point you in the right direction - post in one of the workshop parts of the forum.

Ouija

A lot of bottom jockey wheels are fitted loose to allow them to alter their angle as the chain angle alters relative to the front rings. Some even have what looks like a slightly twisted cage instead, that angles outwards. If yours is angling inwards it's a problem. If it's straight with a really loose wheel or angled out with a slightly less wobbly wheel then that's perfectly fine. As rubertoe says, it's the top jockey wheel that determines if the chain skips on the cassette.

newtonuk

Yep, it looks twisted and angles outwards. Cheers!

Critch

Went to pick up my CX Team 2014 today to go with my Lynskey Ti and my Ribble. I'm going to use it as a winter commuter/fun bike. I really like the look of the bike, despite my loathing of BB5's which always seem to rub no matter how you adjust them. Anyway my bike was built and looked really nice then the guy says he needs to talk to me about a frame cracking problem these bike have....

He showed me the crack at the downtube/cross bar where the seat post goes in. Foe those that don't know or haven't been told, the chap in my Halfords was really quite helpful and apologetic and explained the issue. To get that really smooth weld look they use a very fine filling paste on the weld imperfections before painting the bike. The weld is fine and structurally the frame is sound and safe. But, the paste they used was mixed up incorrectly and made too thin or something and makes the filler prone to cracking. When the filler cracks it obviously also causes the paint to crack. Its the filler that is cracking not the frame or the weld. Your bikes are safe, but the crack looks damn ugly on a brand new bike.

I was offered another 10% discount with no come-backs, or I could take the bike away at normal cost and chuck it around then take it back when the warranty frames ship as Boardman will be doing a frame replacement programme for affected bikes. You'll just be without your bike for a few days. There are apparently around 300 or so of the Large size bikes (thats the size I opted for, cant say about the other sizes) at the main distribution warehouse and they are not seeing this crack issue so much now, so it looks like the affected frame issue is passing. Guess I was unlucky. I refused to take the bike and the guys are going to order another for me. So it will be a few more days now but I can wait.

The guys were open about it all, but it made me realise dont get complacement when you collect a new bike and examine it thoroughly before you take it away. I would have missed this crack due toe the bright lights in the store and the reflective paint.

koontz

Well My bike is going to a proper bike mechanic as the front derrailier only goes on small ring, and the rear wheel is un true. Am not going back to halfords as this is my 3rd bike off them and have no faith in there abilities was so ever. On another note have you looked at the big ring on the crank the teeth arent all the same shape, I know this isnt faulty but what is the purpose of this?.

fret

Koontz, It just needs setting up properly, plus the OEM Miscroshit front mech is awful. You need a LOT of force to get it to move and it feels VERY agricultural. It may be that you are not operating the shifter correctly. I had the same issue when I first got mine.
My rear wheel is still ovoid/eliptical but not so you would notice it.
The teeth are different shapes to assist fast shifting and making it smoother.

if you take it to another shop then they will probably charge you when you are totally at your legal right to ask, or should I say demand, that Halfords sort it out. Any work then done may then negate the Halfords Warranty, so tell them what you are doing.
Talk to the manager and say you want it done, but don't trust their staff so you want THEM to pay for it to be done. It's all within your legal rights to ask.

Primus84

What's the skinniest tyre a 2014 CX Comp can take? I'm looking for a turbo tyre for a mate and they all seem to be 23mm which I think will be too narrow for the rim? Any recommendations?

fret

I use 23's on the old one with no problems, even at 120psi and on my Kinesis rims as well.

This may help http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html
Many other sites have similar info.

koontz

Ok managed to sort out front derr, and flip the stem so its more upright, will sort wheel some other time. Also why do boardman measure there frame sizes at the seatpost to bottom bracket, most use the top tube so my top tube is 55.5 yet the frame size is a 53?/

fret

All manufacturers measure their frames on the seat/downtube from the centre of the BB to a "virtual horizontal top tube" hence why it seems smaller when measured
I don't know of any manufacturers who use the top tube as a frame sizing measurement.

Primus84

fret wrote:

I use 23's on the old one with no problems, even at 120psi and on my Kinesis rims as well.

This may help http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html
Many other sites have similar info.

Thanks - anyone got any experience with the 2014 Comp in relation to tyre sizes?

fret

It's a 19c rim
From the MAVIC website
"Recommended tyre widths: 1.50 to 2.30" that's 37 or38mm-58mm in proper measurements. Other sites state a 19c will take 28-44mm, so I wouldn't go less than a 25, that's for sure.

Primus84

So what type of turbo tyre can I get him then?

fret

Use a normal road tyre instead. The Vittorio Rubino Pro 2 seems a favourite of many

welkman

I am running 25mm GP 4 seasons with no issues and I don't go light! Also my wheels have stood up to half a cross season so far and the front mech has been fine. I don't want to talk about the awful FSA cranks or the bottom bracket though! Will be building up some new wheels for cross, maybe stans iron cross rims laced to xt hubs or novatech hubs, maybe Hplus sons rims. I am thinking of promoting the bike to my main commuting/training bike but I can only run the front brake as my Powertap wheel is non disc Will need to swap out seatpost bars and saddle as I don't find them comfortable and prefer a classic bend/ deda newton bar.

Anyone else race theirs? I think they are a bit of a heavy beast to race on with the standard wheelset. Anyone got an idea of how much the stock ritchey OCR wheelset weighs in at?

Caller

welkman wrote:

Anyone else race theirs? I think they are a bit of a heavy beast to race on with the standard wheelset. Anyone got an idea of how much the stock ritchey OCR wheelset weighs in at?

The standard Ritchey wheels on mine were 1.09kg front and 1.28kg rear, that was for the wheel with only rim tape and 160mm Avid rotors fitted.
I replaced them with a set of Hope Pro 2 Evo hubs with Stans Iron Cross rims which weighed 0.92kg front and 1.02kg rear, also with rim tape and rotors fitted. I can't remember which spokes the new wheels have.

As standard the bike weighed 10.19kg, with the wheels replaced but OE Ritchey tyres refitted it dropped to 9.78kg.

fret

I'm in a CX Sportive tomorrow and have entered a couple of others this year as well.
I'm fitting the OEM Ritcheys back on as I can't be bothered to change tyres from the Gatorskins to race tyres. Yes, I know, I'm lazy.
The normal wheels I use are the Kinesis Crosslights at 1818g, but once they're covered in mud I ain't gonna notice any difference in weight, that's for sure.

fret

I finally saw the new CX today in Halfrauds. Whilst the paint looks very much like polished alloy, it just doesn't work for me. It also looks cheap.
The wheels look better than the old Ritcheys though.
Can't recall who had problems with the rear mudguard, but the frame fixing is exactly the same as the old model, so just use a shorter bolt in the seatstay bridge and the chainstay bridge.

fret

Brilliant day out on the WIGGLE FALLING LEAVES event in the New Forest.. 36 miles on mainly fire roads, gravel, disused railways and a bit of road work.
Took me 2 hrs 20 mins, plus 2 food stops, so it will be interesting to see the time when they are posted up. Average 15.4 mph, which is as good as my daily commute, with a max of 30.5mph.
7.30am sign on, 8.00am start, not much above freezing to start, 1.5C or so, but I soon warmed up and removed one layer and the beanie hat.
THE bike to have today was a Cross or 29er with hard tyres as there was no mud, just one section of sand. Many punctures, probably due to tyre pressures being too low I reckon with the grit about. All hard packed gravel and the amount of MTB's I passed was unbelievable. I only got passed by one bloke on a 29'er, but then he looked half my age and weighed about the same as one of my legs.
Bike is now cleaned and back to commuting mode.

Can't wait to do some more.


Some pics here Type in rider number 3490 and you'll see my ugly mug.
http://sportivephoto.thirdlight.com/vie ... 0543160927
and there's a new CX somewhere among the pictures.

Fat-Boy-Roubaix

OK can someone point me in the direction of an off the shelf wheelset for the CX? under £400?

rubertoe

Kinesis Crosslight

But you could get a very decent set of handbuilts for the same money.

Fat-Boy-Roubaix

Thanks I looked at those are they a decent upgrade to the Ritchley OCR?